[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Yep all possible! Ive seen belts shredded from a couple in your list. Especially N54, power steering pulley can hit the subframe and crack. They make aluminum replacements because of this

so I removed the pulleys and there's no way on a x-drive the power steering touches the subframe.

Ill install the aluminum one anyway, but this was not my issue.

I still dont know what would have cause this. Tensionner is almost new, and the spring was strong (but enough?), no damage on any pulley, bearing are good, no oil, noting is seized.

Probable cause : tensioner maybe. The belt 'melted' on all grooved pulleys and smell like a burnout show.

This saved the engine, rubber is 'glued' on the BACK on the guard ; between guard and block.

[colorado.e9x]

For some reason I thought you had a 335i. I think the power steering pulley is an issue with the RWD subframe.

Do you think any rubber got past the main seal?

[StradaRedlands]

I recall a conversation here regarding the bolts for those crankseal guards. Someone was really advocating for using aluminum bolts for them, whilst others were saying that the supplied steel ones were fine. Any resolution to that conversation?

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

For some reason I thought you had a 335i. I think the power steering pulley is an issue with the RWD subframe.

Do you think any rubber got past the main seal?

absolutely not, all look clean

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

I recall a conversation here regarding the bolts for those crankseal guards. Someone was really advocating for using aluminum bolts for them, whilst others were saying that the supplied steel ones were fine. Any resolution to that conversation?

mine came with alu bolt

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

mine came with alu bolt

Do you have a link? All I see are stainless... if I have the option I would prefer alu!

[MidWillamette335d]

Did my vibration damper (FAI) and added a clutched alternator pulley while I was there. More preventive maintenance, but upon removal the old one was showing signs of cracking and it seemed loose from the pulley section to the main hub. Pretty straightforward...jacking the car to get the lone screw holding the cooler to the fan shroud was my biggest complaint. In a pinch (or have time like me) an M12x90 bolt, slightly modified, works well to lock the flywheel. My pass through socket ended up being a spare 24mm with some flats ground for a wrench as there were none available locally.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Do you have a link? All I see are stainless... if I have the option I would prefer alu!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...Cquery_from%3A

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006489413258.html

Grazie!

[oVeRdOsE.]

Battery coding day.

- INPA reads 90Ah

- NCS expert extracted file says 80Ah.

So who's right?

I wan't able to flash CAS file for the battery, dont know why.
I was able to flash my other stuff on the FRM tho.

[jbash87]

The E91 manual swap has begun. So very excited to be rowing gears soon!

PS. No idea how the PO fit an entire lawn mower under the car

[sgm330xi]

My E90 had codes for Adaptive headlight failure.

I replaced the passenger side SMC module over the weekend that was fried due to water getting in. Coded with Protool and resolved.

Also used liquid tape to remedy bare wiring issues that I had last year and its still holding up fine.

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by sgm330xi

My E90 had codes for Adaptive headlight failure.

I replaced the passenger side SMC module over the weekend that was fried due to water getting in. Coded with Protool and resolved.

Also used liquid tape to remedy bare wiring issues that I had last year and its still holding up fine.

Nice! Had the same wiring issues on my ‘09.

Do I spy Active Cruise?!

[sgm330xi]

Yup! I think my E90 came with every feature from the factory besides individual audio. The Adaptive cruise control brackets are broken and it wiggles in there but it never throws codes and works fine, never needed to calibrate it.

[mattanderson]

Shifter refresh, using the shorter throw OE lever and Rogue front carrier bushings:

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by mattanderson

Shifter refresh, using the shorter throw OE lever and Rogue front carrier bushings:

Need more deets!

My shifter is quite sloppy, it's needing something sooner rather than later!

[oVeRdOsE.]

project car it's fun they said...

[BRG_N54]

Ran the USB cable from the COMBOX to the armrest in the green car, last piece of the $6FL CCC>CIC puzzle. Was quite a challenge getting it under the rear carpet between the seats, but in the end I won!

[mattanderson]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Need more deets!

My shifter is quite sloppy, it's needing something sooner rather than later!

Mine was pretty sloppy, too.

The play comes from a few places:

1. The plastic cup or "shifter bearing" (Part 7 in diagram, p/n 25111220600) at the pivot ball of the lever itself wears out. This is probably the cheapest and easiest win.
2. The oval carrier bushings (Part 2, p/n 25117507695) where the front of the carrier mounts to the transmission. I replaced these with aftermarket Rogue delrin ones.
3. Shifter arm bushing (Part 5, p/n 25111222015) where rear of the carrier attaches to the car
4. Rod selector joint (Part 11, p/n 25117580281) where the selector rod attaches to the transmission. This part (25117580281) has actually been revised, and looked a bit different than the original one I replaced.
5. The lever itself has a plastic bushing where it attaches to the selector rod. There's no way to replace this bushing so you have to replace the whole lever. I used the OE short lever (p/n 25117542200).

If you're doing all of the above, you'll also want some new hardware to go with:

1. Circlip (Part 10, p/n 25117571899) [x2]
2. Carrier bolt (Part 4, p/n 25117529079)
3. Carrier bolt (Part 3, p/n 25117529078)
4. Selector rod dowel pin (Part 14, p/n 23411466134) [you could probably re-use the old, but if you've come this far . . .]

It's not an E90, but I found this video helpful in explaining what the different parts are and where the play comes from:

As he did in the video, I got under the car and prodded around on the various components. I could tell that there was not simply one source of the play in my shifter: all of the various components were contributing.

I read that you need to remove the exhaust and driveshaft in order to perform all of the under-car operations, but I managed to pull it off without doing so. Not sure if E92's are more manageable than E90's in that regard, or if I'm just a glutton for punishment.

The biggest challenge for me was removing the shifter arm bushing (Part 5) from the car itself.

I had read that Part 3 is known as the "bitch clip" but I had no trouble with that one at all. These links were helpful in preparing me for that (again, not E90 platform but close enough):

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/dri...itch_clip.html
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/dri...ift_lever.html

Reinstalling the rod selector joint (Part 11) was also challenging.

All in all, pretty tough. Not sure I'd recommend it without removing the exhaust and driveshaft but it is possible on an E92.

I haven't driven it yet (want to flush MTF + upgrade transmission mounts before I put all the underbody covers back on) but just rowing through the gears, the feel is dramatically different. Almost no play and much notchier. The short shift lever definitely adds a bit of effort (I'm not a fan of super short shifts, but I couldn't resist the affordable OE upgrade). Curious to see how she feels on the road.

[StradaRedlands]

THANK YOU mattanderson!!!!!! I want to get this done, but have been putting it off presuming the exhaust and drive shaft need to be dropped! Maybe, just maybe I'll attempt!

That "before" segment is what it looks like right now!

[Hoody007]

Changed the cabin air filter in the i3. Prepping to do a heater core flush on the E90, but that will have to wait. Studying for the MCAT while fighting pollen/allergies/possible long COVID.

I also theoretically washed the E90/F10/i3. Theoretically because you can’t tell after like 30 min, what with pollen…

[colorado.e9x]

sgm330xi let me know if you get bored of that ACC.. I've retrofitted one to my 330xi but the sensor heater is broken (it disables the whole system) 🥲

[oVeRdOsE.]

I put LCI xenon w/ AHL on a pre-LCI xenon car.

All was plug and play, everything works , including angel eyes, high, xenon.

But AHL, of course. Seems like I have the wiring since I have a code in the FRM. (Ill might only code this out)

Anyway, this is strange, I was expecting way more ''retrofitting''