[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

I put LCI xenon w/ AHL on a pre-LCI xenon car.

All was plug and play, everything works , including angel eyes, high, xenon.

But AHL, of course. Seems like I have the wiring since I have a code in the FRM. (Ill might only code this out)

Anyway, this is strange, I was expecting way more ''retrofitting''

Did your E90 come with AHL? If not I’d imagine you’d need to recode everything to match with a new VO (524 if memory serves).

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Did your E90 come with AHL? If not I’d imagine you’d need to recode everything to match with a new VO (524 if memory serves).

need to investigate, I dont know if I had. On bmw decoder it does not say for my pre-lci, but on my LCI is said : S524 Adaptive headlights

[Backlash2032]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

I put LCI xenon w/ AHL on a pre-LCI xenon car.

All was plug and play, everything works , including angel eyes, high, xenon.

But AHL, of course. Seems like I have the wiring since I have a code in the FRM. (Ill might only code this out)

Anyway, this is strange, I was expecting way more ''retrofitting''

If after changing the VO you still have issues, pop the AHL module off the bottom of the lights. Pop it open and check for corrosion, chances are that's your issue. Super cheap second hand, just make sure you match rev on them.

As for what I did to my car, I just picked it up from the alignment shop after swapping my AST coilovers (way too racey) for a set of Bilstein B12 with Eibach Pro Kit springs. God I love this car again!

[mattanderson]

Nice! How is your drop with the Pro Kit?

Mine (E92 328i version) dropped the front significantly more than the rear, so the wheel gap was even but there was a lot of rake measured at the rocker panel. I deleted some of the rake by raising the front with E30 perches.

Running mine with Koni yellows and quite happy. Curious how the B8's would compare.

I did an MTF flush with Redline MTL (first MTF change in the car's 100k "lifetime"), buttoned up all of the underbody panels, and took her to the shop for a pre-track tech inspection.

Also got to drive her for the first time with my new shifter setup (all new factory bushings/bearings except for Rogue delrin carrier bushings, Rogue transmission mounts, and OE SSK lever), and wow, what a drastic difference. Super precise and notchy and much higher effort with the shorter throw. I think I like it but time will tell; it's a big difference to adjust to.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

I put LCI xenon w/ AHL on a pre-LCI xenon car.

All was plug and play, everything works , including angel eyes, high, xenon.

But AHL, of course. Seems like I have the wiring since I have a code in the FRM. (Ill might only code this out)

Anyway, this is strange, I was expecting way more ''retrofitting''

I did this same upgrade to my 330. My 330 had pre-LCI AHL xenons, however the donor LCI headlights didn't come with the modules, so I used custom ABS plastic plates to block off the opening at the bottom of each headlight and removed the adaptive option ($524).

Very plug and play, though I did have to set SIDEMARKER_US in the FRM to "nicht_aktiv" to keep the amber turn signals lights from staying on as running lights when the headlights were on. The actual LCI amber corner lights (three amber LEDs in the upper corner of each light) don't work since the pre-LCI headlight connectors don't have the wiring for these lights, which I am OK with.


I didn't care about adaptive lights, but my 335 has them and I really like it especially on dark curvy roads. However I've heard a lot of people say that upgraded projectors give you significantly better/wider/brighter light output negating the need for adaptive lights. That's my next big project on my 330.

[Backlash2032]

Originally Posted by mattanderson

Nice! How is your drop with the Pro Kit?

Mine (E92 328i version) dropped the front significantly more than the rear, so the wheel gap was even but there was a lot of rake measured at the rocker panel. I deleted some of the rake by raising the front with E30 perches.

Running mine with Koni yellows and quite happy. Curious how the B8's would compare.

I did an MTF flush with Redline MTL (first MTF change in the car's 100k "lifetime"), buttoned up all of the underbody panels, and took her to the shop for a pre-track tech inspection.

I'll get some pictures later for you, but mine seemed to lower the rear a touch more than the front. I'm happy regardless.

I just put MT-LV in my transmission and I *love* it. Granted it's not warm yet, so who knows what will happen when Temps rise.

[jbellk75rt]

Started my valve cover gasket replacement. All went pretty much as expected till I got to the PCV hose behind the valve cover. It kicked my butt. Finally got it off and spent too much time wriggling the valve cover out. Done for the day, will reinstall tomorrow but pretty much have the process down. My VC gasket was in pretty good shape, still flexible but the spark plug hole gaskets had turned to hard, brittle plastic and were leaking badly, oil in a few spark plug holes. Valvetronic motor gasket was also leaking. Valvetronic sensor gasket was also done for and pretty tough to get out. Will slip it all back together tomorrow.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by jbellk75rt

Started my valve cover gasket replacement. All went pretty much as expected till I got to the PCV hose behind the valve cover. It kicked my butt. Finally got it off and spent too much time wriggling the valve cover out. Done for the day, will reinstall tomorrow but pretty much have the process down. My VC gasket was in pretty good shape, still flexible but the spark plug hole gaskets had turned to hard, brittle plastic and were leaking badly, oil in a few spark plug holes. Valvetronic motor gasket was also leaking. Valvetronic sensor gasket was also done for and pretty tough to get out. Will slip it all back together tomorrow.

Interesting that the main gasket was okay, but all the smaller ones had hardened. I want to replace the sensor gasket, but just could not get it out with the VC still in place. I quite before I broke something trying to get it out, as it was sealed in tight!

[Karlos20945]

So, I attempted this morning to change the rear drop links on my E90. All was going well. Top nuts off, along with one lower bolt. The second lower bolt, however, decided to shear off, leaving only a few threads exposed from the hub.
I have had to admit defeat here and the car will be going in next week for a professional to free the sheared bolt and fit the new drop links. To top it all off, I managed to hit myself in the face with a spanner 🔧 🤦🏻‍♂️

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Karlos20945

So, I attempted this morning to change the rear drop links on my E90. All was going well. Top nuts off, along with one lower bolt. The second lower bolt, however, decided to shear off, leaving only a few threads exposed from the hub.
I have had to admit defeat here and the car will be going in next week for a professional to free the sheared bolt and fit the new drop links. To top it all off, I managed to hit myself in the face with a spanner 🔧 🤦🏻‍♂️

Well that's not good...

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Karlos20945

So, I attempted this morning to change the rear drop links on my E90. All was going well. Top nuts off, along with one lower bolt. The second lower bolt, however, decided to shear off, leaving only a few threads exposed from the hub.
I have had to admit defeat here and the car will be going in next week for a professional to free the sheared bolt and fit the new drop links. To top it all off, I managed to hit myself in the face with a spanner 🔧 🤦🏻‍♂️

Classic. We've all been there brother, don't be too hard on yourself haha

[jbellk75rt]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Interesting that the main gasket was okay, but all the smaller ones had hardened. I want to replace the sensor gasket, but just could not get it out with the VC still in place. I quite before I broke something trying to get it out, as it was sealed in tight!

Not kosher but I used a small wood chisel with the bevel side down and a rubber mallet to get under the metal lip to start to peel it back and then just leveraged it around till it came loose.

[jbellk75rt]

Today I put the newly gasketed VC back on. Not too bad. On the reinstall one of the two PCV caps inside the VC came off so had to pull the VC off again and JB'd the cap back on. Am waiting overnight for the JB to fully cure before starting the car and checking for leaks. My wife asks why I spend so much time cleaning the engine compartment. She doesn't understand, I'm removing fingerprints from the scene of the crime.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by jbellk75rt

Not kosher but I used a small wood chisel with the bevel side down and a rubber mallet to get under the metal lip to start to peel it back and then just leveraged it around till it came loose.

Leap of faith on that one!

On mine, it's only misting a little, so I'm just going to leave it for now. Still monitoring the football gasket, but it seems to be fine!

[oVeRdOsE.]

so few $$ question, what would be my best best for this code?

did a swap, the code wasn't there, now it's there.

What I did not plug back ?

abs sensor?

(transfer case is connected, both harness)

will get into it tomorrow morning.

[StradaRedlands]

ABS sensor would be my first guess, but there are a few other choices for sure!

[jbellk75rt]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Leap of faith on that one!

On mine, it's only misting a little, so I'm just going to leave it for now. Still monitoring the football gasket, but it seems to be fine!

I did mine off the car. Trying my technique on the car could very well break the sensor neck. Not good.

[jbellk75rt]

Started my car this morning (let it sit overnight to let JB cure) and I got the triangle of death, 4WD, brake, service and steering lights on the dash. The good news, no leaks after my VC gasket replacement. After a bit of research I did the ole lock to lock with the steering wheel and all the lights went off except the steering light. What the heck? Then I realized that was the reset the clock light after disconnecting the battery. My favorite tool during the whole process? The extendable reach lighted magnetic parts retriever.

[tcphoto]

I washed it and am waiting for the new paint to cure then ceramic coat it.

[GoRomeo]

I washed and oiled my K n N filter in my e90.. Also clraned the Maf sensor. Forgot to take photos. 😌

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

I washed and oiled my K n N filter in my e90.. Also clraned the Maf sensor. Forgot to take photos. 😌

Pictures or it didn't happen!!!

[mattanderson]

I think I found a pair of working OEM DISA valves!

Based on this old post I found (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...postcount=21):

Originally Posted by johnmyster

For information...as I have not seen this addressed on these forums.

BMW did a few updates on the valves during the production years of our cars. Based on superseded part numbers, the best I can tell is one update on the small, two on the large.

The later valve variants have different shafts and bushings. The latest change occurred during 2007/2008. The large updated part number is 11617579114. The small is 11617560538. These numbers supersede the prior versions.

I've sourced, tested, and sold 40+ of these manifolds for three stage conversions in the past year. In the case of the earlier valves, the large one is almost always disentigrated beyond 100k miles and requires replacement...as I do not rebuild valves for the 3im "kits" that I sell. I've never seen the later variants (years and part numbers given above) failed, regardless of mileage.

One exception, I have RARELY seen the smaller valve of the newer design stuck open, but this will throw a CEL as it is recognized by the car. Disintegrated shafts and floppy valves are not noticeable to the computer. (I can see the OP has a part number ending in 538 and indicates the "stuck" problem.) I do not know if the stuck valves are indicative of a burned out motor or debris in the gears. I've only seen one failed in this manner and have not taken the time to tear it apart for further testing.

I say this to say, if you can find later valves for your car (from X3, X5, Z4 Si, or n51) it's probably just as good or better than a rebuild on the earlier/superseded designs. I would suggest that precautionary rebuilding on later valves is unnecessary and that rebuilds due to failure will probably never be needed.

I have been on the hunt for unmolested manifolds, with DISA's in tact, from newer cars. I needed 2 manifolds (4 valves) to piece together a working pair but it was worth the gamble.