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      09-12-2013, 07:25 PM   #2421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dVeLoPe View Post
^^ thanks but i showed my dealer that and they wanted me to give them the TSB that states the entire head must be replaced as the ''real fix'' to this issue.
I would still have the lifters replaced before your CPO warranty runs out. Remember, the work that the dealership does will have a warranty attached to it (one year I recall ), so if the lifter noise comes back after the CPO warranty runs out you still have the warranty under the work that is done. If the dealer cannot fix the lifter noise with the lifter replacement they may be obligated to replace the head for the lifter problem to be fixed.

Get it started under warranty. That is how I would go about it...my 2 cents for what it is worth...

Link to a copy of the TSB for the lifter change below.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1057
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Last edited by DL; 09-12-2013 at 07:46 PM.. Reason: add link
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      09-12-2013, 10:06 PM   #2422
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Thanks to that informative post I fowarded it to my SA and my car will be going in for the lifter replacement on monday.

How can I have other crucial under warranty now items checked/replaced while im in their for the current issue? What should I worry about aside from this on the N52??

I know the car only has 40.5k miles but rather fix any KNOWN issues preventatively before any wear can occur!
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      09-13-2013, 12:32 AM   #2423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dVeLoPe View Post
Thanks to that informative post I fowarded it to my SA and my car will be going in for the lifter replacement on monday.

How can I have other crucial under warranty now items checked/replaced while im in their for the current issue? What should I worry about aside from this on the N52??

I know the car only has 40.5k miles but rather fix any KNOWN issues preventatively before any wear can occur!
Good news on the progress, it should pay off in the end.

Other than the lifter noise my 2008 E92 N52 has been very good to me.
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      09-13-2013, 02:34 PM   #2424
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Ticking

I've had the same ticking on my 2008 BMW 335i for about a year now. BMW insists that is normal engine/gearbox sounds.
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      09-13-2013, 02:36 PM   #2425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkMizar View Post
I've had the same ticking on my 2008 BMW 335i for about a year now. BMW insists that is normal engine/gearbox sounds.
Not the same issue. The issue with the N52 was with the lifters and the head. I know I had both replaced under warranty when I had my E90.
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      09-22-2013, 04:38 PM   #2426
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they gave me my car back with the ''cannot reproduce sound started engine at various temps etc" what can i do about this...

says they need me to record a video of the car while its doing it..
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      09-23-2013, 01:07 AM   #2427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dVeLoPe View Post
they gave me my car back with the ''cannot reproduce sound started engine at various temps etc" what can i do about this...

says they need me to record a video of the car while its doing it..
I recorded almost ten videos with a current newspaper each time it happened and put them on disk for the dealer.
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      09-28-2013, 06:07 PM   #2428
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Tick Tick

Just thought I would add to this lengthy thread. I recently bought a used Z4 3.0l from a BMW dealer with their used car warranty, the car was manufactured 7/2009.
I started hearing the dreaded tapping noise on cold startup, but it wasn't there straight away, it came in about 2 mins later, when the cold start procedure was over and the idle speed lowered.
Having read various forums on this subject I thought it could not be the tappet issue as I read that the re-designed cylinder heads were introduce late 2008. The noise however was definitely there. I put off going to the dealers until it was due it's service and I mentioned it to the service advisor when booking it in. I received a call later that day from him saying that the technician found a loose heat shield which he repaired. I arranged to collect the car the following morning when the engine would be cold.
The service advisor drove it to the front, jumped out saying 'there you go quiet as a mouse,' 'just wait a minute' said I, and after the 2 minute period it tapped merrily away in his presence. So it was booked in to be dealt with under the used car warranty.
To my surprise, and this is something I haven't read before, all they did was to update the software, this is supposed to improve the performance of the oil pump. They said the 'technician' could still hear a slight noise, but to give it a week or so to see if things improved, if not give them a call back and they would order the parts for the next step, note they didn't want to see or hear the car before ordering the parts.
Unsurprisingly the noise was still there, the only noticeable difference being the titles of my music collection had been cleared. At least it showed they did something.
Anyway I collected the car today after having the relevant parts of the valve train replaced and I am hoping that they are the latest super dooper parts that will have permanently solved this problem.
So beware all you N52 drivers out there, it can affect cars manufactured well into 2009, and there may be a new first step to take on the road to a new cylinder head, the software update.
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      09-28-2013, 06:37 PM   #2429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakartakid View Post
Just thought I would add to this lengthy thread. I recently bought a used Z4 3.0l from a BMW dealer with their used car warranty, the car was manufactured 7/2009.
I started hearing the dreaded tapping noise on cold startup, but it wasn't there straight away, it came in about 2 mins later, when the cold start procedure was over and the idle speed lowered.
Having read various forums on this subject I thought it could not be the tappet issue as I read that the re-designed cylinder heads were introduce late 2008. The noise however was definitely there. I put off going to the dealers until it was due it's service and I mentioned it to the service advisor when booking it in. I received a call later that day from him saying that the technician found a loose heat shield which he repaired. I arranged to collect the car the following morning when the engine would be cold.
The service advisor drove it to the front, jumped out saying 'there you go quiet as a mouse,' 'just wait a minute' said I, and after the 2 minute period it tapped merrily away in his presence. So it was booked in to be dealt with under the used car warranty.
To my surprise, and this is something I haven't read before, all they did was to update the software, this is supposed to improve the performance of the oil pump. They said the 'technician' could still hear a slight noise, but to give it a week or so to see if things improved, if not give them a call back and they would order the parts for the next step, note they didn't want to see or hear the car before ordering the parts.
Unsurprisingly the noise was still there, the only noticeable difference being the titles of my music collection had been cleared. At least it showed they did something.
Anyway I collected the car today after having the relevant parts of the valve train replaced and I am hoping that they are the latest super dooper parts that will have permanently solved this problem.
So beware all you N52 drivers out there, it can affect cars manufactured well into 2009, and there may be a new first step to take on the road to a new cylinder head, the software update.
hmmmn interesting, howmany km/miles you done in your car when the problem was noticed?

Thanks..
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      09-29-2013, 02:30 AM   #2430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakartakid View Post
To my surprise, and this is something I haven't read before, all they did was to update the software, this is supposed to improve the performance of the oil pump.
I don't see how software could affect the oil pump since the pump is mechanically driven and doesn't have any electrics.
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      10-03-2013, 02:41 PM   #2431
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Anyone know if there is there a TSB for head replacement if lifter replacement does not end up solving the issue - searched can't find it. If not, how are people getting head replacements?
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      10-08-2013, 04:23 AM   #2432
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I experienced the ticking noise a lot until a few months ago, it was daily on a cold start..... Then it went away for days and happened occassionally (like twice a week or so).... The last few weeks it hasn't happened until this morning.

Its a 2007 E81 130i with 80000km's.
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      10-14-2013, 09:51 PM   #2433
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I noticed that the ticking noise sound Lauder on the passenger side then on driver side, and I can't hear noise when I'm driving only when car parked and only when car is hot.
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      10-18-2013, 05:43 AM   #2434
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Hey guys, I've been reading this topic for a bit trying to determine if the sound I'm hearing is linked at all.

The reason I'm not sure is that the main noise I hear every time I start the engine (most noticeably if I turn the car off after a journey and then turn it back on again straight away) is a sound that I can only describe as flicking a ruler, that Ddddddddrr sound. It only lasts about a second before it disappears so it sounds like there is something loose, however the other day I really tried to listen to it and instead of disappearing it went into a steady ticking sound (quite quiet) that increased with revs.

Could this be the same issue or is it something completely different? The car 3 litre 325i

Last edited by Pete88; 10-18-2013 at 08:11 AM..
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      10-19-2013, 05:33 AM   #2435
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I have a N55 2011 335i. I changed the oil to Mobil 1 0w40 the week that i bought it. No ticking. I just changed the oil after 800 miles just to keep things fresh as I dont know what the previous owner did. I used BMW 5w30 and now I have a tick that can be heard on cold start between 600-900 rpms.

I am in Jersey and it was 51 degrees maybe thats why, it wasnt that cold 2 days ago. Is it because the mobil 1 has a thinner cold weight of 0?
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      10-24-2013, 06:12 PM   #2436
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check engine show

Hi there Ive been experiencing this lately. when Im in the freeway and drive 70 mph then from 5th gear to 6th when going to 105 or more mph hr my engine light goes on and lose power.. what could it be? vacum? any idea?
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      10-25-2013, 06:04 AM   #2437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
I have a N55 2011 335i. I changed the oil to Mobil 1 0w40 the week that i bought it. No ticking. I just changed the oil after 800 miles just to keep things fresh as I dont know what the previous owner did. I used BMW 5w30 and now I have a tick that can be heard on cold start between 600-900 rpms.

I am in Jersey and it was 51 degrees maybe thats why, it wasnt that cold 2 days ago. Is it because the mobil 1 has a thinner cold weight of 0?
Hi WF ,

I already made a post regarding the poor viscosity of Mobile 1 5/30....it's a terrible oil. I highly suggest Motul X-cess 8100 5w 40. Not only has it improved cold starts but also has an amazing oil analysis and performance in all conditions. It also adhears to

8100 X-Cess
5W-40

Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oil

100% Synthetic

TYPE OF USE

8100 X-Cess is specially designed for the recent and powerful Diesel and Gasoline engines.

Numerous OEM approvals make this product multipurpose across all makes and models for maximum protection and a cleaner, more efficent engine.

Especially recommended for engines experiencing mild oil consumption.

PERFORMANCES

STANDARDS
ACEA A3 / B3 / B4

APPROVALS
API SL / CF
VW 502.00 505 00
BMW ‘Long Life’
PORSCHE CAYENNE 2002
Mercedes Benz 229.3
OPEL/GM Diesel LL B-025

The ACEA B4 performance requires an outstanding detergent / dispersent power and a better viscosity increase resistance due to soot produced by Direct Injection Diesel engines (except VW Unit Injector engines that require Motul Specific 505.01 5W-40)

The MB 229.3 standard is more stringent than 229.1 in terms of ageing resistance calling for extended drain intervals managed by the on board computer; detergent / dispersant power (see above ACEA B4) and fuel economy improvement of 1.2% versus a reference 15W-40.

The OPEL/GM Diesel LL B-025 standard requires two main properties of the lubricant : high HTHS and very low volatility to drastically decrease oil consumption.

Hope this helps.

BB
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      10-25-2013, 06:41 AM   #2438
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Is castrol 0w30 or 0w40 good too or no?
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      10-25-2013, 07:08 AM   #2439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
Is castrol 0w30 or 0w40 good too or no?
Castrol is a marketing gimmick. They paid tons of royalty fees just to get there logo on our E9X oil caps. Also, never use 0W...it must be 5w/30 or 5w/40. Personally I go for 5w/40 for turbo charged cars, but the brand is very important!

I've tried many n have settled for Motul. Check out there site n see the RnD they have put in all there lubricants. Even there coolant is great but I usually stick to the BMW pre mixed coolant, if not available I only use Motul.

Last piece of info, the more mileage you have, the more viscosity is needed. Please check out this great site- bobistheoilguy.com

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      10-28-2013, 09:31 PM   #2440
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Replaced lifter at 10k due to noise. Noise came back after 3k driving.
Replaced block free of charge (Thanks BMW) at 36k
Now at 73k.
Ticking noise is back but only when engine is cold.
Other than that no problem with 08 N52 328i coupe.
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      11-04-2013, 09:21 AM   #2441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techie182 View Post
Replaced lifter at 10k due to noise. Noise came back after 3k driving.
Replaced block free of charge (Thanks BMW) at 36k
Now at 73k.
Ticking noise is back but only when engine is cold.
Other than that no problem with 08 N52 328i coupe.
I went through the say process ( accept my replacements happened at 68k ). Still ticks in the cold.
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      11-04-2013, 10:03 AM   #2442
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Damn Noise started ticking louder as soon as I did Oil change and Sparkplugs. Used Mobile 0w-40 Euro blend. Could the oil be the issue since its getting cold here in Colorado?
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