[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

Hardest part honestly is the glovebox usb. There’s no opening for it so I’m gonna have to figure out how to take the glovebox totally out so I can dremel a square hole for it somewhere where it will be out of sight and out of the way.
Still have the working flashlight so I can’t put it there. Right now it just runs out to the floor till I figure it out.

I upgraded my CCC to CIC on my 330 a few months ago and I'm very pleased. I was going to remove the flashlight and add the OEM USB port there but didn't bother. I just left the USB wire tucked behind the fuse panel cover at the back of the glovebox. I doubt I'll ever use that port much if at all; I just used it to upgrade to 2023 maps which is probably the last update that CIC will ever get.

The other hard part was getting the OLD frame off the old screen since they have a light sensor with a ribbon cable down at the bottom.
And because I refuse to tear anything up so that I could still revert to CCC if I ever wanted to amd I wanted to keep the early glass covered shield.

I initially swapped the plastic cover over but removed it when I realized it's not needed. The CIC display without the cover is a much more durable display and isn't sensitive to pressure. I don't keep things stored on the 'shelf' so no worries about scratches.

I hear you on the combox, that's on my list of things to do. I got music streaming working fine using a bluetooth adapter under the armrest that plugs into the 1/8" aux port. I have factory bluetooth on my 06 330 which worked great for phone calls until I got a recent Android update and now I can't pair my phone to the car. iPhones pair just fine, so it's something with android that I haven't been able to figure out yet. I'm hoping a Combox update will fix that (and give me better bluetooth streaming audio quality!)

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Picked the car up!
AC is COLD, and it’s 88F outside and rising. Indeed I get cool air immediately on startup, whereas before there’d be an arduous 5-10 min before I’d feel cool-ish air.

It’s so cold that I have the auto program set to the 1st bar. Before I’d have it on max and be swearing at the system…

So in my case, the compressor was weak.

Sounds like my 335 AC... I haven't had the time to do any diagnostic work yet but I'm hoping I don't need a new compressor :-( however in my case when the compressor does kick on it does blow very cold... just takes forever to kick on, and shuts off at random when stopped.

[Onizukachan]

So to put that another way, and be clear, you already have 8mm spacers from factory compared to his rear.

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I upgraded my CCC to CIC on my 330 a few months ago and I'm very pleased. I was going to remove the flashlight and add the OEM USB port there but didn't bother. I just left the USB wire tucked behind the fuse panel cover at the back of the glovebox. I doubt I'll ever use that port much if at all; I just used it to upgrade to 2023 maps which is probably the last update that CIC will ever get.



I initially swapped the plastic cover over but removed it when I realized it's not needed. The CIC display without the cover is a much more durable display and isn't sensitive to pressure. I don't keep things stored on the 'shelf' so no worries about scratches.

I hear you on the combox, that's on my list of things to do. I got music streaming working fine using a bluetooth adapter under the armrest that plugs into the 1/8" aux port. I have factory bluetooth on my 06 330 which worked great for phone calls until I got a recent Android update and now I can't pair my phone to the car. iPhones pair just fine, so it's something with android that I haven't been able to figure out yet. I'm hoping a Combox update will fix that (and give me better bluetooth streaming audio quality!)

Thanks for feedback/perspective. I just like the symmetry and OE look of the pre LCI cover against the cluster… plus I read if I ever find a pre LCi e60 with the CIC… they did have the ambient connector still in the screen so I could connect it again.



See above for my solution to not have USB flopping around.

I’m still running my armrest aux cable to apple dongle for now myself for aux, but with other now quick enough to be usable sources, like USB import, Sirius, and HD radio I didn’t use it as a source once all weekend.
Even the same original TCU is quite responsive now.
Always amazes me when I use old 90s computers etc how fast they seemed then, but how laggy they are to inputs by todays standards.


Still need to do DVD in motion, but for that one I hav3 ot add the parameter via ncs expert, just like I did to get warnimpuls to have an option for double blink.

[beamerfirst]

My first post on this forum.
The power was low for a couple of days and I scanned the OBD2 for the engine errors and got the MAP sensor error.

A rat (suspect) had bitten into my map sensor wiring on my E90 320d with N47 engine.

Using my soldering skills, I was able to re-wire it and secure the wiring with some heat-shrink sleeves and plastic tubing.

However, I would like to replace the connector, since the joint is made very close to it, and it has damaged some part of the connector.

Does anyone know the part number for the same, if I were to order the pigtail with the wires on the connector. I found few on AliExpress, but not sure if they are of the right kind.

The description on AliExpress reads :3 Pin Auto MAP Sensor Connector Common Rail Diesel Injection Pump Socket Pressure Crankshaft Position Sensor Plug For 1928404227

Any help is appreciated.

[Karlos20945]

Originally Posted by beamerfirst

Does anyone know the part number for the same, if I were to order the pigtail with the wires on the connector. I found few on AliExpress, but not sure if they are of the right kind.

The description on AliExpress reads :3 Pin Auto MAP Sensor Connector Common Rail Diesel Injection Pump Socket Pressure Crankshaft Position Sensor Plug For 1928404227

Any help is appreciated.

Have you had a look on realoem.com for the part numbers? That’s usually where I start.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

So to put that another way, and be clear, you already have 8mm spacers from factory compared to his rear.

Thats a good way to put it, yes. That would be correct for LCI. K9 effectively has 8mm spacers in the rear compared to Pre LCI

[colorado.e9x]

Installed a new tweeter in the drivers front door as the old L7 one started to crackle. Only- the new (Bowers & Wilkins) one does it too. The crossover is much bigger than the L7, I was hoping it would have helped filter out the lower notes. Now I'm thinking it's a connection issue in the mid range

Edit: it is the mid range. Well, good thing thats next on my list

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

—
Hoody007 this is going to sound like a noob question, but I didn't know you could change the auto setting. I always thought it would adjust the fan accordingly. How do you do that?
—
On things I did today:
Washed both of them inside and out

Not a noob question!

If you have a pre-LCI without iDrive, I don’t know if the IHKA program setting is exposed. But for cars through MY 2009 with iDrive, pressing the auto button will bring up a pop up menu, and pressing the auto button again will cycle through 3 different intensity settings.

For cars with the updated IHKA controller (I.e the one with the All button), in auto mode you’ll see what looks like fan speed settings. Except that’s not what they are. They’re INTENSITY settings. Basically tells the car how much air you want blowing at you once the car has reached your tempature set point. It does also affect the aggressiveness of how the car cools down.

There are 5 different modes, selected by pushing the fan speed buttons. This will work for any E90 with or without iDrive. The pop-up menu is eliminated.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Not a noob question!

If you have a pre-LCI without iDrive, I don’t know if the IHKA program setting is exposed. But for cars through MY 2009 with iDrive, pressing the auto button will bring up a pop up menu, and pressing the auto button again will cycle through 3 different intensity settings.

For cars with the updated IHKA controller (I.e the one with the All button), in auto mode you’ll see what looks like fan speed settings. Except that’s not what they are. They’re INTENSITY settings. Basically tells the car how much air you want blowing at you once the car has reached your tempature set point. It does also affect the aggressiveness of how the car cools down.

There are 5 different modes, selected by pushing the fan speed buttons. This will work for any E90 with or without iDrive. The pop-up menu is eliminated.

Thanks for the input! I'll have to check that out. I'm 2006 (non iDrive) with a IHKA from a 2010.

Edit: I never realized I had been controlling it this entire time. The little Auto lettering with what I thought was fan speed. Intensity. Neat.

[Cal122]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

I noticed that the car is not nearly as planted as it used to be. It feels less stable, more skittering along than properly planted. Was I just imagining it? Is there something really different? Is it the new tires? Could there still be something wrong with the alignment? I did at this time finally attempt to adjust the tie-rods to center the steering wheel but no go, frozen solid (which may explain why they weren’t adjusted at the alignment, but, again, why didn't they tell me this at the time?). But the feeling that there is something just not right hasn’t gone away, it nags at me every time I drive the car.

K9Leader Was chasing this not planted feeling on my 2011 xDrive for a long time. Felt particularly poor over bumps on the highway. New shocks all around (all stock OE), Hunter alignment at a great BMW specialist, new tires and eventually new winter tires - Both runflat and non-run flat. Steering wheel was always centered and car always drove perfectly straight. Still had the issue and thought it was either in my head or an xDrive thing.

Had the car recently at the dealer for warranty work and I mentioned it and had them do an alignment (why not after all the investment in parts). Don't know what they did, or if it was their alignment machine, but it's been a night and day difference and the car finally feels planted.

[PaulForeman]

2011 335xi - Installed a BMS catch can (maybe not necessary for the N55), Vargas Turbo Crank bolt capture (maybe not necessary for the amount of power I'm making), and a KIES crank seal guard (maybe not necessary since I fixed all coolant and oil leaks, new belt, idlers, tensioners).

But at least now I don't have to wonder or be concerned about it.

Also installed a BMS Stage 1 tuner in the same weekend. I have the PPK tune flashed to the DME as well, so between the 2, it seems to make decent power.

[dephrank]

LEDs flickering intermittently. All coding done when LEDs were fitted. Flickering started about 9 months later. Coding rechecked and all in order. Still happening

Took it to a garage and they put some sort of large multimeter equipment on the battery terminal in the bonnet. Had me switch off engine and on again. Said the battery was weak measuring 10v at start instead of 12v. It’s a new battery from BMW in September 2023

Alternator was charging fine

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by dephrank

LEDs flickering intermittently.

Bulbs are probably going out. If they are, the flickering will only get worse 🫡

[Cal122]

Door lock actuator went out today, guess the plastic gave up from the heatwave. BMW discontinued the two pack with special pricing deal. Now you have to buy individual actuators at full price, bummer.

[RFChas]

Originally Posted by RFChas

'09 328i. Took possession on Fri. On the lift, serviced, and fully inspected yesterday. Bombing through the mtns this weekend coming up. See how quickly we can get it to 20k. What blast this E92 is. Cheers all.

Update on the 10k mile '09 E92 sport N52... previous owner had installed new Firehawk Indy tires and I just popped 800 miles up to the NC Smoky Mtns. This car is a friggen riot to drive. Earlier this year on this trip I was driving a low mileage '08 E82 sport N52 and this uber cool 328i was every bit, if not more, fun to drive.

Tires sure make a diff. No surprise.

I'm planning another road trip asap. What a sweet ride.

All y'all digging these cars and posting here your experiences, #MuchRespect... I get it. Cheers all

[colorado.e9x]

RFChas pics or it didn't happen

[cehrl7]

Originally Posted by PaulForeman

2011 335xi - Installed a BMS catch can (maybe not necessary for the N55), Vargas Turbo Crank bolt capture (maybe not necessary for the amount of power I'm making), and a KIES crank seal guard (maybe not necessary since I fixed all coolant and oil leaks, new belt, idlers, tensioners).

But at least now I don't have to wonder or be concerned about it.

Also installed a BMS Stage 1 tuner in the same weekend. I have the PPK tune flashed to the DME as well, so between the 2, it seems to make decent power.

Attachment 3503748

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Attachment 3503750

I am going to replace my harmonic balancer, pulleys and belt. Did you have to lock the crank to remove the crank pulley bolts? Thanks

[Buug959]

On Sunday I was out for a drive and stopped for a snack and a cold drink. When I got back in the car it would not crank. Lights and everything else seemed to be working properly so my first thought was that the starter had given up. It was a rather warm day (36c) after all. After getting a boost from a stranger which didn't work I remembered hearing about the engine ground strap issues these cars have. I jumped the ground lug on the fender to the oil filter housing and the car started right up. I drove straight home with the battery light coming on intermittently and shut it off in the driveway. I tried to restart it but again it wouldn't crank.
I ordered up a new ground strap on Monday morning and just finished installing it. The engine starts great now. Here's a photo of the old and new strap.See if you can tell which is which.

[mattanderson]

Yikes, that looks like it burnt up. Is that what usually happens??

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by mattanderson

Yikes, that looks like it burnt up. Is that what usually happens??

This is a first for me but I have seen a few videos of them looking pretty crusty. The green is just how copper corrodes. Mine did actually get hot enough to eventually burn through the few strands of wire that were left. If you look close you can see a spot a couple of inches above the break that looks like it was grounding to some other spot on the frame or maybe suspension components .

[vilord]

When I bought my 2009, this happened about 5 miles from the dealership... 250 miles from home. battery died about 20 miles later, apparently the alternator also doesn't work without it 😅