[RMG]

Originally Posted by geminimadman

You have to remember that the oils listed on the list are there because they are available to us in the US market (most any auto part store). My mechanic friend orders oil from germany (same oil that would be on the list if you lived in germany) because thats the oil that was used when the car was first being designed, tested, etc..

...how to put this nicely ...your mechanic friend is an idiot.

FYI:
The oils on the list I sent you are all LL-01 and are there for a reason.

LL-1 oils are for high sulfur content fuels or USA fuels.

LL-4 oil is for low sulfur content fuels ...these are German/European fuels

...use the BMW EU recommended oils here and you'll ruin your engine.

Thank you!

[geminimadman]

Originally Posted by RMG

...how to put this nicely ...your mechanic friend is an idiot.

FYI:
The oils on the list I sent you are all LL-01 and are there for a reason.

LL-1 oils are for high sulfur content fuels or USA fuels.

LL-4 oil is for low sulfur content fuels ...these are German/European fuels

...use the BMW EU recommended oils here and you'll ruin your engine.

Thank you!

well first off he's definitely not an idiot, hes an ASE certified and BMW certified mechanic and hes been working on bmw's and euro cars for a long time. Hes worked on my 2 e30's and e36's and bought them all back to life

Ill find out exactly what he uses. All I know is its not oil you can buy at your local auto parts shop..at least not around here unless you when to the bmw dealer. Its most likely bmw synthetic ll01. when I go to his shop gives me two options: castrol or the "good shit", lol.

Also, i change my oil every 5K instead of 15K like bmw recommends. I dont care what kind of oil and what kind of car you have but running oil for 15K cant be good on anything.

In the past ive done most all of my own work but since I have a crushed vertebrae its hard to do almost any work on my beloved bmw's

[Bavarian Black]

Originally Posted by RMG

...what? Where did you get this from?
FYI: The only difference between a 0W-30 and a 5W-30 is that the 0W-30 thickens less after you turn off your engine. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 5W-30. Both are still way too thick to properly lubricate an engine at startup but a 0W-30 is much a much better choice. All manufacturers I have seen are specifying 0W-XX now. Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0W-XX oil to mention a few. BMW NA is specifying a 5W-30 because this is what they sell in NA where they offer free maintenance for the first 4 years/ 50k miles. In Germany where the free maintenance is only for 2 years a (...more expensive) BMW 0W-30 oil is specified for N52/ N54/ N55.

It is said that 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If someone is interested in his car's engine longevity then he should concentrate his attention at reducing engine wear at startup. And a 0W oil has a better pumpability at startup = the oil gets faster where it's needed = less wear = longevity.

I agree with you on Mobil 1, I don't like it either. Mobil 1 is a blend of synthetic and dino oils and has very few followers on oil forums due to poor oil analysis results. It was originally a pure synthetic, but Mobil successfully lobbied to continue using the 'synthetic' description while changing the formulation to a blend. They can do that in the US (where their lobbying dollars get traction) but countries like Japan and many Euro community members actually require that products are described accurately.

On the other hand Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula sold in US is on the BMW approved oil list and has obtained tons of excellent UOAs (used oil analyses), many of which are reported on the forum "Bob is the oil guy" you mentioned earlier....another reason for the use of the German 0w-30 is the fact that is made from a class IV base, meaning no natural oil is in it. All man made. And most importantly, it has a higher vaporization temperature, which will keep the gasoline which is now diluting it as a result of direct injection, from vaporizing out the crank case and fuming up the intake runners to back of your valves, causing carbon build up there.



Hope this helps...

Hope this helps...[/QUOTE]

Thanks, sorry for the late response. I also do not want to open another Oil Anslysis thread.

What you are saying has to quantify to- location, vehicle location production, heat, climate and the killer, temp and how much you have on the clock..

I have a EU Manual and it's identical to the US one. It specificity states -Viscosity ratings (SAE) depends on the regional climate- APPROVED OILS 5W-40 and 5W30. And we all know Castrol paied a lot to get that logo on our N54. Caps.

Now, it all comes down to preference based on the above.

I know what sheering can do, on cold or sprinting driving.

Each to there own but thankfully i have found the right oil for my car.

Check the manual. Viscosity changes at all levels, not just warming up or settling the car....think about your oil while driving it. Unless you just turn it on and off.

Pls pls guys read posts on bobstheoilguy.com and the manual.

I really hope this help

BB

[Bavarian Black]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Black

Hope this helps...

Thanks, sorry for the late response. I also do not want to open another Oil Anslysis thread.

What you are saying has to quantify to- location, vehicle location production, heat, climate and the killer, temp and how much you have on the clock..

I have a EU Manual and it's identical to the US one. It specifically states -Viscosity ratings (SAE) depends on the regional climate- APPROVED OILS 5W-40 and 5W30. And we all know Castrol paied a lot to get that logo on our N54. Caps.

Now, it all comes down to preference based on the above.

I know what sheering can do, on cold or sprinting driving.

Each to there own but thankfully i have found the right oil for my car.

Check the manual. Viscosity changes at all levels, not just warming up or settling the car....think about your oil while driving it. Unless you just turn it on and off.

Pls pls guys read posts on bobstheoilguy.com and the manual.

I really hope this help

BB[/QUOTE]

[RMG]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Black

Thanks, sorry for the late response. I also do not want to open another Oil Anslysis thread.

What you are saying has to quantify to- location, vehicle location production, heat, climate and the killer, temp and how much you have on the clock..

I have a EU Manual and it's identical to the US one. It specifically states -Viscosity ratings (SAE) depends on the regional climate- APPROVED OILS 5W-40 and 5W30. And we all know Castrol paied a lot to get that logo on our N54. Caps.

Now, it all comes down to preference based on the above.

I know what sheering can do, on cold or sprinting driving.

Each to there own but thankfully i have found the right oil for my car.

Check the manual. Viscosity changes at all levels, not just warming up or settling the car....think about your oil while driving it. Unless you just turn it on and off.

Pls pls guys read posts on bobstheoilguy.com and the manual.

I really hope this help

BB

[/QUOTE]

...do you know what the difference between a 5W-30 weight and 0W-30 weight oil really is ???? Apparently not...based on what you said above ....don't bother with the BITOG site...it's not for you...you need to get the Motor Oil Basics first, ok ?
FYI: Castrol is BMW's longtime partner not a sponsor.

[geminimadman]

Update:

So i talked to my bmw mechanic and found out he uses lubro molly (made in germany) for customers that want premium oil. Otherwise if they just want oem spec he uses castrol.

Also, I started my car the other morning and came back out (i usually let it warm up for a good ten minutes prior to driving due to the fact I tend to drive with a lead foot ) this time the ticking was very present. I turned the car off and back on and it immediately went away and hasnt come back. Hopefully changing to better oil and going to 0w-40 instead of 5w-30 will make a difference. I will most likely do the HVA bleed procedure as well.

an interesting note: I was at the auto store this weekend and was looking at their premium "euro" car oils and all the ones had LL-04 NOT LL-01 ratings. So that leads me to believe that obviously LL-04 rated oil is not for cars sold in europe as someone stated previously and that LL-04 wouldnt ruin any of the North American N52's.

Either way im going with the lubro molly, bleed procedure, and if needed i will have him quote me on the lifters and start saving for that.

[RMG]

Apparently ignorance is bliss and I got tired trying to prevent you guys damaging your engines. Last try:

Originally Posted by geminimadman

Update:

So i talked to my bmw mechanic and found out he uses lubro molly (made in germany) for customers that want premium oil. Otherwise if they just want oem spec he uses castrol.

...again, he's an idiot ...there are many of them among the NA "certified BMW" mechanics. Sometimes I am wondering if the "BMW certified" shouldn't be followed by "incompetent". Lubro Moly oils are considered mediocre at the best in Germany, Lubro doesn't have the resources nor the know how Castrol or Shell have. But they are good at promoting their products. Enjoy....

Originally Posted by geminimadman

Hopefully changing to better oil and going to 0w-40 instead of 5w-30 will make a difference. I will most likely do the HVA bleed procedure as well.

BMW doesn't recommend the bleeding procedure anymore. There is a Tech Bulletin about this...do a search.

The first number ( 0 or 5 or 20 etc) is the oil viscosity when cold, the lower this number is the better. Even better in Canada. The second number is the oil viscosity at the operating temperature. You should stay with an oil having the value recommended by the car manufacturer, in this case "30". Switching to a higher viscosity will impact the oil flow in the engine ... that might translate into an improper cooling of different components in the engine etc. There is more to the viscosity story ...for example German Castrol 0w-30 viscosity at 100*C it is 12.1 which is very close to being a 40W The range for an oil be classified as a 30 weight is 9.3-12.49. A 40 weight is from 12.5-16.29 so you can see this oil is quite "thick" at operating 100 Deg C temps, almost thick enough to be a 40 weight. So these numbers are not absolute values. Viscosity as important as it is is not everything you should pay attention to...I don't have time for this...in short you should use an oil from BMW's NA list.

Originally Posted by geminimadman

... leads me to believe that obviously LL-04 rated oil is not for cars sold in europe as someone stated previously and that LL-04 wouldnt ruin any of the North American N52's.

...Great. Go with an LL-04. But read this BMW document first, first paragraph " Fur Ottomotoren sind LL-04 Ole nur in Europa..."...ask your genius BMW mechanic for a translation, he knows everything:

[geminimadman]

Originally Posted by RMG

Apparently ignorance is bliss and I got tired trying to prevent you guys damaging your engines. Last try:

...... that might translate into an improper cooling of different components in the engine etc. There is more to the viscosity story ...for example German Castrol 0w-30 viscosity at 100*C it is 12.1 which is very close to being a 40W The range for an oil be classified as a 30 weight is 9.3-12.49. A 40 weight is from 12.5-16.29 so you can see this oil is quite "thick" at operating 100 Deg C temps, almost thick enough to be a 40 weight. So these numbers are not absolute values. Viscosity as important as it is is not everything you should pay attention to...I don't have time for this...in short you should use an oil from BMW's NA list.

:

interesting you say it wont cool properly when most reports when comparing oils say that liqui moly will keep your engine slightly cooler when running hard such as track racing. Not to mention this thread on bimmerfest...

"Full synthetic" does not mean better protection.
Both BMW and Lubro Moly 5W-30 are "hydrocrack" oils
(restructured mineral oil with synthetic materials added for
extra protection and longer life). Castrol is made in the USA
where, under a 1999 ruling, it can legally be labelled as "full
synthetic." In Germany, these words are reserved for oils
that are 100% man-made material (i.e. no mineral oil). As a
result, Lubro Moly 5W-30, which is made in Germany, must
be labelled "synthetic technology" even though it contains
higher-quality additives and provides better protection than
the BMW/Castrol 5W-30. How do we know it's better?
• Lubro Moly 5W-30 has been tested and approved by BMW
in Germany under Longlife-04 standards. It has an API
(American Petroleum Institute) rating of SM, and it's rated by
the ACEA (European Automobile Manufacturers' Assoc.) as
A3-04/B4-04/C3-04. This is all on the Lubro Moly label.
(And we know how the Germans feel about accurate labels.)
• We tried to find ratings on BMW 5W-30, but the Castrol
web site refers you to BMW, and the BMW web site* offers
no data – it simply lists a few oils that meet the old BMW
Longlife-01 standards. No mention is made of BMW 5W-30
meeting Longlife-04, on either the site or the label, and
there's no mention of ACEA ratings. Interestingly, BMW does
say, "Use only oils with an API rating of SM or higher," but
the label on the BMW 5W-30 bottle says its API rating is SL.
We suppose it's possible BMW USA hasn't updated its web
site or label since '04 when the new Longlife standards came
out"

I always change my oil at 5k miles so if the ticking doesnt completely stop then I will most likely revert back to castrol synthetic, and incase any one was wondering castrol sythetic is NOT the same as castrol syntec. Im sure most people know that but thought I would throw it out there. I appreciate your info but its really easy to call someone an idiot over the internet.

[RMG]

Originally Posted by geminimadman

"Full synthetic" does not mean better protection.

...I won't comment on this one nor on the cooling part. It's out of this World...

BMW (Castrol) 5W-30 is not the "German" Castrol 0W-30 sold in NA. "German" Castrol is Class IV, which means it is a complete synthetic oil unlike the standard NA Castrol Syntech which a class III stock base, class 3 is considered a "conventional oil".
German Castrol (rebranded Castrol Edge 0W-30 European formula ) is NOT made in the USA, therefore the nickname "German Castrol"...below is a pic for conformity.

BMW has approved hundreds of oils in EU under LL-04, the first part of the LL-04, the beginning of the list is shown on the internal BMW paper I sent you yesterday (starts alphabetically with Adamol, AGIP etc). I doubt they test them individually in real life, maybe they did test them in Lab conditions or simply "approve" these based on the manufacturer data. Therefore their quality varies.

Enjoy your Lubro Moly. Make sure it's an LL-04 .

[Bavarian Black]

...do you know what the difference between a 5W-30 weight and 0W-30 weight oil really is ???? Apparently not...based on what you said above ....don't bother with the BITOG site...it's not for you...you need to get the Motor Oil Basics first, ok ?
FYI: Castrol is BMW's longtime partner not a sponsor.[/QUOTE]

Listen, I'm not going to get stuck btw u two arguing about the weight or viscosity or preference.

Why are you, or why do I feel your so adamant on Castrol. Forget the specs, I said my peace and what oil I feel best works for my car that is in a HOT climate country. I tried M1, even Castrol however the Castrol in the MENA region is made in Egypt! No offense but I'll stick with my Motol 8100 X-C 100% Synthetic


PRODUITS
NOUVELLES
INFORMATION TECHNIQUE
AU SUJET DE MOTUL
OÙ L'ACHETER
STYLE MOTUL
FAQ


*
Q. What is the difference between mineral oil and Synthetic oil?
A. Mineral oil (Dino oil) comes from the ground and goes through a refining process. Most of these base oils are a byproduct of fuel refining and are quite limited in their ability to perform. True Synthetics are created in a laboratory and are molecularly engineered to perform by design; that is why Synthetic oils can have a lower cold start viscosity, like a 0W (a 0 weight oil flows like water at 0 degrees C).

Q. I have heard that some synthetics in the market are actually mineral oils with fancy marketing hype, is this true?
A. It’s true, some of these oils are actually highly refined mineral oils, after an unprecedented battle in US courts, this refining process was deemed to have enough human involvement to be called “a Synthetic oil” and so, this opened the doors for some smart marketers to call their products “Synthetic”.

Q. What kind of synthetic base stock are used in the Motul product?
A. Motul known for their mastery of ester technology; uses the best in base stock technology; depending on the application, Motul uses Ester, PAO, and a small combination of Group III base stocks.




Q. What do the “Starburst / Donut” and the alpha-numeric numbers on the back of the bottle represent?
A. They are the systems issued by the sanctioning bodies to define the performance levels of the lubricant.

Q. Why is that important to me? Oil is oil!
A. On the contrary! These standards systems are quite ambiguous; the North American and European standards are far apart, so understanding these systems will help you get what you pay for when you are buying your oil.

API / ILSAC American Petroleum Industry, is the primary sanctioning body for lubricants in North America. The weakness of the API system is the inability to position one approved product as an upgrade over another. Manufactures engineer and build cars that have varying degrees of performance and technologies, having one blanket oil standard for a wide variety of cars doesn’t make sense.

YEAR
API
ILSAC
1994-1996
SH
GF-1
1997-2000
SJ
GF-2
2001-2004
SL
GF-3
2005-present
SM
GF-4

ACEA European Automobile Constructors Association, is chaired by representatives of the car manufacturers and not oil company executives. This association is geared towards the requirements of specific cars and technologies. Utilizing a system of concurrent standards based on engine technology and performance requirements under progressively tougher testing methods, achieves oils that allow the engines to operate to their true potential.

Criteria
Gasoline
Diesel
SAPS
Drain Interval
Fuel Economy[FE]
A1
B1
C1
<15,000 kms
Hi Performance / Turbo + Long drain
A3
B3/B4
C2
>15,000 kms
Hi Performance + FE Turbo + Long drain
A5
B5
C3
<30,000 kms

Q. What are SAPS?
A. Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur are components of the additives package in engine oils. With new low emissions exhaust technologies, these compounds have been shown to clog and damage the sensitive catalytic converters and particulate filters. New oil standards have mandated reduced SAPS oils; you will find this latest technology in the Motul line up.

Q. I see Motul products ranging from 300V, 8100, to 6100 etc, what is the difference?
A. Motul products are categorized from our best and highest technology to the lower technologies. Which product is right for you will depend on your needs and requirements.

300V is our most advanced base stock featuring double ester technology, a true racing product used by top race teams in the international arena yet available to car aficionados. Due to its exceedingly high standards, many passionate enthusiasts are using this product in their high performance street cars.

8100 Premium Synthetic is our most advanced synthetic base stock, using Ester and PAO technology, these products surpass the latest Manufactures' Approvals with flying colours, longer drain intervals and fuel economy for maximum efficiency and protection for your investment.

6100 Synthetic utilizes our advanced base stock with Group III technology; these products achieve the latest Manufactures' Approvals with recommended drain intervals and fuel economy improvements.

Now, I'm not telling you I'm an oil expert, but I've done my research amd trial n error is typical these days.

Best of luck to you all and I hope you all find an oil type your happy with...

[Bavarian Black]

Oh, one more think I'm not proud off but relates to to the BMW -1 or -4.

In Lebanon nearly every BMW has removed their CC, I have a Afe Mach XP Exhast and so the strict US emmison doesn't apply here. Yes yes, I know it's bad, however I'm sure many of you would do the same for 8-12hp....they don't check here, however they certainly check like the UK MOT - suspension, Steering Angle, Wheels, Rims ahh you know the rest, once a year like most countries.

[ssmith96]

Originally Posted by RMG

Apparently ignorance is bliss and I got tired trying to prevent you guys damaging your engines. Last try:

...again, he's an idiot ...there are many of them among the NA "certified BMW" mechanics. Sometimes I am wondering if the "BMW certified" shouldn't be followed by "incompetent". Lubro Moly oils are considered mediocre at the best in Germany, Lubro doesn't have the resources nor the know how Castrol or Shell have. But they are good at promoting their products. Enjoy....


BMW doesn't recommend the bleeding procedure anymore. There is a Tech Bulletin about this...do a search.

The first number ( 0 or 5 or 20 etc) is the oil viscosity when cold, the lower this number is the better. Even better in Canada. The second number is the oil viscosity at the operating temperature. You should stay with an oil having the value recommended by the car manufacturer, in this case "30". Switching to a higher viscosity will impact the oil flow in the engine ... that might translate into an improper cooling of different components in the engine etc. There is more to the viscosity story ...for example German Castrol 0w-30 viscosity at 100*C it is 12.1 which is very close to being a 40W The range for an oil be classified as a 30 weight is 9.3-12.49. A 40 weight is from 12.5-16.29 so you can see this oil is quite "thick" at operating 100 Deg C temps, almost thick enough to be a 40 weight. So these numbers are not absolute values. Viscosity as important as it is is not everything you should pay attention to...I don't have time for this...in short you should use an oil from BMW's NA list.

...Great. Go with an LL-04. But read this BMW document first, first paragraph " Fur Ottomotoren sind LL-04 Ole nur in Europa..."...ask your genius BMW mechanic for a translation, he knows everything:

Would you say not to use Mobile 1 0W-40 Euro Formula then? Thats what my mechanic used last time for me.

[geminimadman]

Well the proof is in the pudding. I started my car this morning with the new luqui moly (lubro). And my car was the quietest I have ever heard it. there wasnt even the 1/2 second tick thats usually there! I have a long trip later today so I will be clocking the mileage to see if thats better.

Going back to the lubro/liqui..I found SEVERAL interesting articles that came from independent German companies that all gave liqui moly very high ratings and also stated that is one of the best oils and favored by most German bmw shops and mechanics. Thats enough for me.

Now I could be a jack ass and post a ton of links and say your an idiot but im above that and really dont care. Im here to provide my experiences/recommendations/solutions to fix the metallic ticking in our beloved NA n52's because thats what this thread is for and NOT showing us how much you love castrol. BTW the liqui moly i used was 0w-40 ll-01/ll-98 for any of you that wants to try it to alleviate the ticking. Ill report back results after ive driven it more

[ccraig13]

Originally Posted by geminimadman

Well the proof is in the pudding. I started my car this morning with the new luqui moly (lubro). And my car was the quietest I have ever heard it. there wasnt even the 1/2 second tick thats usually there! I have a long trip later today so I will be clocking the mileage to see if thats better.

Going back to the lubro/liqui..I found SEVERAL interesting articles that came from independent German companies that all gave liqui moly very high ratings and also stated that is one of the best oils and favored by most German bmw shops and mechanics. Thats enough for me.

Now I could be a jack ass and post a ton of links and say your an idiot but im above that and really dont care. Im here to provide my experiences/recommendations/solutions to fix the metallic ticking in our beloved NA n52's because thats what this thread is for and NOT showing us how much you love castrol. BTW the liqui moly i used was 0w-40 ll-01/ll-98 for any of you that wants to try it to alleviate the ticking. Ill report back results after ive driven it more

FWIW, I did the whole Libro Molly thing two years ago and that's actually how I found out about the ticking noise. I began to hear it as soon as I started using it. Luckily, I eventually got the block replaced. At the moment, I'm currently running Castrol 5w-40 LL-01. It's what my indy put in.

[_Sinister_]

Originally Posted by geminimadman

Well the proof is in the pudding. I started my car this morning with the new luqui moly (lubro). And my car was the quietest I have ever heard it. there wasnt even the 1/2 second tick thats usually there! I have a long trip later today so I will be clocking the mileage to see if thats better.

Going back to the lubro/liqui..I found SEVERAL interesting articles that came from independent German companies that all gave liqui moly very high ratings and also stated that is one of the best oils and favored by most German bmw shops and mechanics. Thats enough for me.

Now I could be a jack ass and post a ton of links and say your an idiot but im above that and really dont care. Im here to provide my experiences/recommendations/solutions to fix the metallic ticking in our beloved NA n52's because thats what this thread is for and NOT showing us how much you love castrol. BTW the liqui moly i used was 0w-40 ll-01/ll-98 for any of you that wants to try it to alleviate the ticking. Ill report back results after ive driven it more

Please do

[geminimadman]

Originally Posted by ccraig13

FWIW, I did the whole Libro Molly thing two years ago and that's actually how I found out about the ticking noise. I began to hear it as soon as I started using it. Luckily, I eventually got the block replaced. At the moment, I'm currently running Castrol 5w-40 LL-01. It's what my indy put in.

why would you get the block replaced? the ticking noise comes from the lifters in the head. If your block needed to be replaced then that sounds more like knocking and not ticking. Was yours an n52 or n54 motor?..

[ccraig13]

Originally Posted by geminimadman

why would you get the block replaced? the ticking noise comes from the lifters in the head. If your block needed to be replaced then that sounds more like knocking and not ticking. Was yours an n52 or n54 motor?..

Sorry, I meant the header? I forget what they called it exactly. Had the lifters replaced 6 months prior and it did nothing so they went head with the full replacement.

[bmwarie]

My first posting - just want to see if it works. New E93 Cabrio owner.

[derekg2286]

had an issue on my 2007 335xi had some insane ticking noise. turns out it was the blower motor that is going in the vehicle how i figure it out was of course bmw dealer but it was only after i removed the cabin filters and covers to that area that made it extremely noticeable . its a very weird situation but hope you fix it. im dealing with a bath of problems right now as well but since i am a new member i cant make a thread yet. and i womt hijack yours

[a31cefiro]

Dropped my car off to the dealership three days ago, and just got a call back today from my SA. He told me that the shop foreman and BMW engineers listened to my car and compared it to three other vehicles and concluded that the ticking is "normal". Not sure what to do at this point.

This is how my n55 sounds like during cold start-ups.

[tapforyou]

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[007_e350]

I've got this ticking going on intermittently, its not the oil guys its the freakkin lifters .. I'm out of warranty how much does it cost for those things to change ?