[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

It's going to be a busy weekend. I figured since one of the door lock actuators has failed on the 235k mile 328, the rest will follow at some point. Decided to buy the rest off the same parts car (18 M3, 75k miles). They're notably quieter than the originals. While looking for them I stumbled upon a Gen 2 FLA mirror (with I'm hoping homelink Gen 4) in their shop. Ended up getting everything for $70 shipped, not bad! $35 for FLA wiring and $20 for the cover. Hoping to sell the old parts for what I paid for these so it should be a very cheap upgrade. Oh, and the drivers door lock actuator is going out on the 330 so, soft close it is

Edit: it does not have homelink Gen 4
Edit 2: started looking for a mirror that does have Gen 4. Stumbled upon another FLA mirror that should have it. I guess both cars are getting the retrofit

Which models have Gen 4 homelink, and what's the difference?

I just got a new garage door opener installed and absolutely cannot program the home link opener on my 330. I tried everything I could think of. However my 20 year old universal keypad remote programmed immediately...

[lowrydr310]

Scanned codes on my 335i last night and saw a 29D2 cylinder 6 misfire. Cylinders 4-5-6 had index 9 injectors and #5 and #6 were ticking loudly when cold so I replaced them with used index 12 injectors from a wrecked car. Installed new seals and decouplers at the same time. I'm thinking maybe that injector might be bad. Coils and plugs are less than a year old with 5000 miles on them. iqraceworks are you still testing injectors? I need to replace my original 170K mile index 1s on bank 1 so I plan to install new injectors in bank 2 then send those used index 12s out to get tested before reinstalling.

[whyzee125]

1) Finally installed my passenger door handle to replace the sticky one
2) While I was at it, did the first step of my Logic7 retrofit. Replaced all the hifi speakers with the new BavSound ones

I'll get to installing the other locations (rear doors, center channel, subs) and adding the amp, fiber optics, etc. later but at least all the existing locations have the speakers installed now. Added a little butyl mat to the back of the door panels too--I have no idea if it helps but in my head it keeps it from moving as much with a little more mass and I'll die on that hill haha

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Cal122

Runflats... I know, I know They've been helpful a few times for my driving area, though I'd never go back to the Potenza's that came new on the car. All seasons in 255/40R17 are difficult to find, only options now are Bridgestone Driveguards (always backordered) or Yokohama Avids.

Ahh, gotcha. I never considered runflats on account of the price alone, just got a scissor jack and donut spare for the trunk and pray I don't get a flat on the interstate.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Which models have Gen 4 homelink, and what's the difference?

I just got a new garage door opener installed and absolutely cannot program the home link opener on my 330. I tried everything I could think of. However my 20 year old universal keypad remote programmed immediately...

I had the same issue getting Homelink to work on my new garage door opener. I solved it with this gizmo. Their site gives info on why you can't make older openers work with newer garage doors, new security protocols and such. This thing intercepts the signal and translates to one the new door understands.

https://www.chamberlain.com/homelink...OMELINK+RPTRMC

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Cal122

Newer actuators are so much quieter, on the LCI I can barely hear the car locking (still not sure which version I prefer tho). Doing this job this weekend, scored an actuator off of a 2016 440i, figured it was worth a try instead of the $250 for a new one. Of course, while I'm waiting for the part to arrive, the vapor barrier butyl on the same door finally gave up and is leaking. I took it as a sign to stop procrastinating and replace the actuator. Hopefully the rain stays away for a bit.

No kidding! Excited to have it. I like the loudness on the 330, its satisfying. The 328 is the grampa car though so comfort overrides it all. I need to repair the butyl on just about every door on both cars lol. So far haven't had a water issue so I haven't put it on the priority list.

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Which models have Gen 4 homelink, and what's the difference?

I just got a new garage door opener installed and absolutely cannot program the home link opener on my 330. I tried everything I could think of. However my 20 year old universal keypad remote programmed immediately...

2012 5/6 series, some SUVs have gen 4 homelink. It worked immediately with my brand new Chamberlain MyQ garage door. Every E90 came with gen 3, and like you said it doesn't like to work with newer garage door openers. My 330 has gen 3 and I use a compatibility bridge with it, it has a noticeable delay compared to the 328 I upgraded to gen 4 last year

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Scanned codes on my 335i last night and saw a 29D2 cylinder 6 misfire. Cylinders 4-5-6 had index 9 injectors and #5 and #6 were ticking loudly when cold so I replaced them with used index 12 injectors from a wrecked car. Installed new seals and decouplers at the same time. I'm thinking maybe that injector might be bad. Coils and plugs are less than a year old with 5000 miles on them. iqraceworks are you still testing injectors? I need to replace my original 170K mile index 1s on bank 1 so I plan to install new injectors in bank 2 then send those used index 12s out to get tested before reinstalling.

I get a cyl 6 misfire if I get a bad rain storm as I don't have a cowl panel. Is it possible this could be your case?

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

2012 5/6 series, some SUVs have gen 4 homelink. It worked immediately with my brand new Chamberlain MyQ garage door. Every E90 came with gen 3, and like you said it doesn't like to work with newer garage door openers. My 330 has gen 3 and I use a compatibility bridge with it, it has a noticeable delay compared to the 328 I upgraded to gen 4 last year

Imagine my surprise to learn we both went about solving an issue the same way When you say delay how long are you talking about? I hold the button for 2 seconds or so and the door opens. It's not the most elegant solution but won out over carrying the discrete opener remote and doing another mirror retrofit.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Imagine my surprise to learn we both went about solving an issue the same way When you say delay how long are you talking about? I hold the button for 2 seconds or so and the door opens. It's not the most elegant solution but won out over carrying the discrete opener remote and doing another mirror retrofit.

good man
I'll have to time it. I'll get back to you on that

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Imagine my surprise to learn we both went about solving an issue the same way When you say delay how long are you talking about? I hold the button for 2 seconds or so and the door opens. It's not the most elegant solution but won out over carrying the discrete opener remote and doing another mirror retrofit.

If it's just a matter of replacing the homelink PCB inside the mirror, that doesn't count as a retrofit!

I'm going to look for one, there are a few newer 5ers (2012+) and various X3s and X5s at the local junkyard that I might check out. I'd like to find an alarm module too; I don't care about the sensors so much but I want the beep when locking doors and wouldn't mind the alarm if a door is opened.

The homelink bridge is $30 but that is my last choice.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

I get a cyl 6 misfire if I get a bad rain storm as I don't have a cowl panel. Is it possible this could be your case?

No, I have the cowl panel in place. I didn't get a SES light or anything, just a stored code for the misfire. I'll have to pull up INPA and get the freeze frame data. I suspect it's one of the new (used) injectors as the plugs and coils should be fine.

I'm on the original MSD80 DME, 170K miles, so I haven't ruled out the possibility of bad MOSFETs. If I can find a cheap MSD81 I may go that route, otherwise I will consider replacing the MOSFETs. I have a bunch of timing corrections across all cylinders, sometimes up to 4 degrees. I plan to replace injectors anyway, but perhaps the MOSFETs are causing these issues too.

[M-technik-3]

Installed my hatch lift struts tonight. Nice simple 5 minute job,

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

If it's just a matter of replacing the homelink PCB inside the mirror, that doesn't count as a retrofit!

I'm going to look for one, there are a few newer 5ers (2012+) and various X3s and X5s at the local junkyard that I might check out. I'd like to find an alarm module too; I don't care about the sensors so much but I want the beep when locking doors and wouldn't mind the alarm if a door is opened.

The homelink bridge is $30 but that is my last choice.

More of an upgrade than retrofit I suppose haha. I just know I really enjoy not dealing with the compatibility bridge. The first one I got was $23 shipped, the second was $35 shipped. Just put the old PCB back in and resell it as a 2011, free upgrade

You'll need the siren that sits in the drivers rear wheel well for the beeps as well as the in cabin module. Hood sensor shouldn't be a problem. If you find two alarm cars I want a set!


Things I did today:
First FLA harness is done

[DBShiznit]

Replaced both rear tires and fresh inspection so I am no longer driving "illegally".

Soon I will be tackling the removal of the rear window tint. It has been getting progressively worse, however I've only benefited from it as it should help the process of removing it. I do have a steamer so here's to hoping that it helps to remove everything without hurting the rear defrosters. The rest of the windows should be easier.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

Replaced both rear tires and fresh inspection so I am no longer driving "illegally".

Soon I will be tackling the removal of the rear window tint. It has been getting progressively worse, however I've only benefited from it as it should help the process of removing it. I do have a steamer so here's to hoping that it helps to remove everything without hurting the rear defrosters. The rest of the windows should be easier.

I inherited the same when I bought my 325i, the bubble wrap look. I'm guessing anyone who has had to personally remove this crap is very hesitant to put it back on, it's not a fun job.

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I inherited the same when I bought my 325i, the bubble wrap look. I'm guessing anyone who has had to personally remove this crap is very hesitant to put it back on, it's not a fun job.

Definitely not but tint has come a very long way. My friend owns a business and they provide life time warranty on the tint now which I find it insane. Do note that he uses the more expensive stuff therefore it lasts much longer and has ceramic properties to keep the heat out.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I had the same issue getting Homelink to work on my new garage door opener. I solved it with this gizmo. Their site gives info on why you can't make older openers work with newer garage doors, new security protocols and such. This thing intercepts the signal and translates to one the new door understands.

https://www.chamberlain.com/homelink...OMELINK+RPTRMC

I can confirm this works.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

Replaced both rear tires and fresh inspection so I am no longer driving "illegally".

Soon I will be tackling the removal of the rear window tint. It has been getting progressively worse, however I've only benefited from it as it should help the process of removing it. I do have a steamer so here's to hoping that it helps to remove everything without hurting the rear defrosters. The rest of the windows should be easier.

You did do donuts first before you got rid of them, right? Right?

[saucyiwnl]

whats up guys i have an e93 328 and my brother in law is doing my suspension work and i recently found out that i purchased the sachs 311406 and 405 strut which is slightly shorter than the oem version which is weird.
now i am wondering if i should purchase 311 403 and 404 because the height of the strut looks slightly bigger on the photo can someone please help lol thx

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by eljay

You did do donuts first before you got rid of them, right? Right?

Thems the rules!

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by saucyiwnl

whats up guys i have an e93 328 and my brother in law is doing my suspension work and i recently found out that i purchased the sachs 311406 and 405 strut which is slightly shorter than the oem version which is weird.
now i am wondering if i should purchase 311 403 and 404 because the height of the strut looks slightly bigger on the photo can someone please help lol thx

311-403 and 311-404 are for standard suspension, 311-405 and 311-406 are for sport suspension. If the new struts look shorter you have standard suspension and yes you should exchange them for -403 and -404.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

2012 5/6 series, some SUVs have gen 4 homelink. It worked immediately with my brand new Chamberlain MyQ garage door. Every E90 came with gen 3, and like you said it doesn't like to work with newer garage door openers. My 330 has gen 3 and I use a compatibility bridge with it, it has a noticeable delay compared to the 328 I upgraded to gen 4 last year

I was looking up 5/6 series mirrors on ebay. The ones listed for 2006-2012 models look just like the mirrors on my E90s. Then there are mirrors for "2012-2016 5 series and 6 series" that have the three buttons but don't have the little LED next to the buttons. Which one do I need?

Maybe that compatibility bridge is the easier solution.