[BMW Guy]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

Daytime.

I'll take a picture of my lights when night comes. My blue Icicle lights cast a blue reflection on my bronze car at night, making it look purple. It looks great that way.

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I've looked into both pole barns and steel buildings but haven't got to the settling on one yet. Any thoughts pro/con for either or? I know it's going to need a thick floor for the lift, 12" is certainly thick 20 yrs ago I would have thought about trying to build it myself but now my body says no but my wallet says yes so I'll watch. I expect them to have this carport planted in a couple hours on Sat.

Where are you located? I do structural design work and may be able to give you some insight structurally and permit wise on your project. Ideally, if we are licensed where you build.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by BMW Guy

Hey guys,
I just recorded a 3-4 log with my new CSF Radiator. Here are the results with outside temps of 70F. https://datazap.me/u/bmw335in55/csf-...27-28-29-30-31
Huge differences in coolant and even oil temps. And not that the radiator had any effect on this, but look at my timing. PERFECT! I've been fighting timing correction since I bought the car lol. 1.5 gallons of E85 did the trick I guess. When connecting MHD to the car, I always scan for codes. I was met with this:
- DME active codes -
348A - Map thermostat: clamped open.

- DME shadow (inactive) codes -
293E - Coolant temperature sensor: Multiple fault.

Is the CSF radiator overcooling my car like people have mentioned? The coldest it has been these past few weeks when driving was 42F. Is the Coolant temperature code that is no longer active also related to overcooling, or is it something different? Will this cause any issues with the car? Thanks for any help!
P.S. Here is a log before I had the CSF Radiator:https://datazap.me/u/bmw335in55/log-...og=0&data=3-14

Yup, 348A is commonly associated with over cooling from the CSF radiator. People fix it by limiting air flow to the radiator or pinching one of the cooling hoses down.

[BMW Guy]

Originally Posted by The Nightman

Yup, 348A is commonly associated with over cooling from the CSF radiator. People fix it by limiting air flow to the radiator or pinching one of the cooling hoses down.

Dang. And I thought I'd be safe in Florida's weather.

[iv]

Desperately want to run BMW Performance(gold)/135i/s(silver) rear brakes on my E90 328i. Can’t find any definitive answers, although I think its just the same issue as with the 335i rear brakes with the Parkin g brake. But then others say need to swap whole wheel carrier etc.! I think the 135i brakes would look bitchin on that car!

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

Crappy pic, but just got home from Cali at 11:00 pm Mountain, considering I was still on Wilshire Blvd in LA at 10:30am pacific, not bad time.


Drove from CA/AZ border to El Paso on a single tank… and I wasn’t going slow either. almost 600 miles to the tank.


Still had all my music on the NBT HDD, my usb stick of movies still plugged into it,
most of my presets, my Msport umbrella, etc etc.
Almost a time capsule of when I sold it two years ago.
Didn’t have my seat preset though. It will take another week to get that set exactly just so.


Also had one of the other 93 Msport mineralgray f31s pull up alongside leaving LA. Pretty neato!

I waved hi as you drove through Redlands!

[Onizukachan]

What were you in? Ran across quite a few bimmers in cali! Couldn’t get pics of all of them since i was driving solo.


Nothing on e91 today, sorry for being off topic but I’m super happy with f31 at moment and OneOf1 will take the back burner for a bit as I recover financially, lol.
I did install an eBay $35 slip on/no drill manual pedal set on the e91 last Friday. Took about 10 minutes total for all 4.
Will take a pic and post one soon for those interested.
Overall pleased with it, the adhesive dead pedal is a bit short for e9x and not exactly right taper, but it’s close enough that it works fine with some careful planning of position before install.
The difference in pedal heights however had me re-learning clutch bite point, my downshift blips and heeltoe Friday night, which I expected.

Throttle is probably 3/8” closer to you the driver due to the stacked thickness, and thus closer to brake pedal height for easier heel-toe or throttle blip, though both clutch and brake also feel an 1/8th” closer as well compared to the worn original rubber covers.

Overall I would recommend, especially for the price.
Far better than drilled covers, tight fit and good feel, and aren’t f3x msport style.
They “fit” the pedal styles (Dinan, ACS , etc) were period available and thus “look right” .
It does take about 2 weeks to arrive but IMO the fitment and price is worth the wait.

[Onizukachan]

On f31 front, I took to BMW El Paso and my service advisor Heidi, so they could do the safety inspection so I can try to get it registered. Diesels don’t have emissions here , they are safety only, but dealerships put the inspection in the state system right away and it’s the same $17 cost everywhere, plus having a video inspection of underside of it is nice. And they washed the road grime and bugs off it free, also nice.
Heidi has my preferred tire pressures on file, so I got it back with exactly 34.5 psi front and 38.0 rear, and didn’t have to go around bleeding or adding half pound at a time per corner. Bonus points for Heidi remembering the small details like that.
Back home, I started cleaning the f31 up and unloading the spare/original parts stash from the hatch. His dog had tried to stand on and thus broken the rear console vent “flaps” on one side, so he gave me a replacement console vent subassembly in the parts pile so I could fix it. The rear of the console clips in, mad once offi could depress the tabs to release the subassembly amd swap them over.
Only took about 5 minutes to swap out, but add and extra 8-10 minutes to clean everything with detail brushes since it was apart and accessible… aka extra yak shaving.

Same with all the hatch bits, vacuumed then brushed then vacuumed, then JDM squashed area, then vacuumed again. Also cleaned leaves and detritus around hatch hinge, door sills and hinge areas detailed, basically bringing it up to my standards. Found a lot of tell tales and memories like a sticker my teen left as a joke behind a panel and a microfiber I left in it… still there.

But it is now clean inside and out, just need to pop hood and detail engine bay.


Considering this plate for it since it is diesel.

Comments, questions invited.
Also do you mind me posting occasional f31 here along with e91 updates?

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by iv

Desperately want to run BMW Performance(gold)/135i/s(silver) rear brakes on my E90 328i. Can’t find any definitive answers, although I think its just the same issue as with the 335i rear brakes with the Parkin g brake. But then others say need to swap whole wheel carrier etc.! I think the 135i brakes would look bitchin on that car!

I ran those and you could that, or you can run the f30 sport brakes 370/345 discs which is what I got, but if I did again (and what I do when I need discs) just todo the f80 m3/4 ones w 380/370 discs. Calipers same as f30 sport. Adapters deeded and parking brake fix is not a big deal to modify.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

What were you in? Ran across quite a few bimmers in cali! Couldn’t get pics of all of them since i was driving solo.

Not physically, just mentally as you drove through town on Interstate 10!

Or could have!

[DBShiznit]

I changed my trans fluid and front driveshaft(plus 8 bolts) this weekend. Found after replacing the driveshaft that the old one had no articulation on the bad side. The new one was butter smooth. Once installed I noticed the transfer case had some play in it. (Enter big sigh) after some digging it seems like there’s a good chance this can be resolved with a fluid change(which I have ready to do) and transfer case adaptation. Since to properly do it I need to remove the bracket for the xdrive I’m also adding a power flex insert to stiffen things up a bit.

On the lighter side I also had a brake light bulb out warning on the dash and Amazon sells a pack of 10 Osram bulbs for ~$13. Auto parts store want $8 for a pack of two Sylvania 7506 bulbs. Not a bad thing to have. As some bulbs showed sign of burning I replaced them all(8) as the trunk lid ones were replaced before. This gives me some spares for the e82 should it need it.

[fastboatster]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

On f31 front, I took to BMW El Paso and my service advisor Heidi, so they could do the safety inspection so I can try to get it registered. Diesels don’t have emissions here , they are safety only, but dealerships put the inspection in the state system right away and it’s the same $17 cost everywhere, plus having a video inspection of underside of it is nice. And they washed the road grime and bugs off it free, also nice.
Heidi has my preferred tire pressures on file, so I got it back with exactly 34.5 psi front and 38.0 rear, and didn’t have to go around bleeding or adding half pound at a time per corner. Bonus points for Heidi remembering the small details like that.
Back home, I started cleaning the f31 up and unloading the spare/original parts stash from the hatch. His dog had tried to stand on and thus broken the rear console vent “flaps” on one side, so he gave me a replacement console vent subassembly in the parts pile so I could fix it. The rear of the console clips in, mad once offi could depress the tabs to release the subassembly amd swap them over.
Only took about 5 minutes to swap out, but add and extra 8-10 minutes to clean everything with detail brushes since it was apart and accessible… aka extra yak shaving.

Same with all the hatch bits, vacuumed then brushed then vacuumed, then JDM squashed area, then vacuumed again. Also cleaned leaves and detritus around hatch hinge, door sills and hinge areas detailed, basically bringing it up to my standards. Found a lot of tell tales and memories like a sticker my teen left as a joke behind a panel and a microfiber I left in it… still there.

But it is now clean inside and out, just need to pop hood and detail engine bay.


Considering this plate for it since it is diesel.

Comments, questions invited.
Also do you mind me posting occasional f31 here along with e91 updates?

f31 updates will be kind of interesting, to me at least. Any BMW wagon is cool and if it's with diesel then it's very cool.
As for myself, got the front tires installed and alignment done for my 335i. Ready for xHP and to check out new MHD 2.x maps.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

On the lighter side I also had a brake light bulb out warning on the dash and Amazon sells a pack of 10 Osram bulbs for ~$13. Auto parts store want $8 for a pack of two Sylvania 7506 bulbs. Not a bad thing to have. As some bulbs showed sign of burning I replaced them all(8) as the trunk lid ones were replaced before. This gives me some spares for the e82 should it need it.

I have a similar 10 pack of bulbs!

[iv]

Originally Posted by Seattlesquash

I ran those and you could that, or you can run the f30 sport brakes 370/345 discs which is what I got, but if I did again (and what I do when I need discs) just todo the f80 m3/4 ones w 380/370 discs. Calipers same as f30 sport. Adapters deeded and parking brake fix is not a big deal to modify.

How’d you do it?

[iv]

I need help making a decision. I have my black E90 328i N51 still. First car I ever bought, been through good and bad, over 100k miles still going strong. Oil pan gasket has gone bad now. I don’t know what to do with this car. N51/GM Trans might as well be scrap metal. Was thinking of doing a N55/DCT swap, using the 2.6 destroker kit 4N makes. After pricing it out how I’d want to do it, I might as well just go buy an OG M2.

I really don’t know what to do with this car now. Not worth zilch at its mileage, maybe if I can swipe a good copart deal on a 335i or 135is I could swap it cheap. But still, back of my brain keeps me thinking the swap will be more headache than it’s worth.

Part of me doesn’t want to get rid of it because first car, sentimental etc etc. The smart part of my brain says scrap it. Middle part says car cover and park in corner and just have this car follow me around in life until I figure out what to do with it. Errrgh.

[fastboatster]

Originally Posted by iv

I need help making a decision. I have my black E90 328i N51 still. First car I ever bought, been through good and bad, over 100k miles still going strong. Oil pan gasket has gone bad now. I don’t know what to do with this car. N51/GM Trans might as well be scrap metal. Was thinking of doing a N55/DCT swap, using the 2.6 destroker kit 4N makes. After pricing it out how I’d want to do it, I might as well just go buy an OG M2.

I really don’t know what to do with this car now. Not worth zilch at its mileage, maybe if I can swipe a good copart deal on a 335i or 135is I could swap it cheap. But still, back of my brain keeps me thinking the swap will be more headache than it’s worth.

Part of me doesn’t want to get rid of it because first car, sentimental etc etc. The smart part of my brain says scrap it. Middle part says car cover and park in corner and just have this car follow me around in life until I figure out what to do with it. Errrgh.

why not just replace the oil pan gasket? way cheaper than getting an M2 and way easier than swapping a new drivetrain. oil pan gasket is NOT that difficult to diy, just need to remove the subframe, not to just lower it.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by iv

I need help making a decision. I have my black E90 328i N51 still. First car I ever bought, been through good and bad, over 100k miles still going strong. Oil pan gasket has gone bad now. I don’t know what to do with this car. N51/GM Trans might as well be scrap metal. Was thinking of doing a N55/DCT swap, using the 2.6 destroker kit 4N makes. After pricing it out how I’d want to do it, I might as well just go buy an OG M2.

I really don’t know what to do with this car now. Not worth zilch at its mileage, maybe if I can swipe a good copart deal on a 335i or 135is I could swap it cheap. But still, back of my brain keeps me thinking the swap will be more headache than it’s worth.

Part of me doesn’t want to get rid of it because first car, sentimental etc etc. The smart part of my brain says scrap it. Middle part says car cover and park in corner and just have this car follow me around in life until I figure out what to do with it. Errrgh.

I hear you on that...

As long as the trans is still good, just ignore the oil pan leak and maybe give it to a family member or friend of the family? Could be another good first car for someone. Then just be the 335i that you want and not mess with swapping everything out.

My $.02 anyway.

[Hoody007]

Ordered B&O midrange speakers for my mom’s F30. Her hifi driver in the back is blown, so I’m upgrading the front sound stage. Will be interesting to hear the difference. Power steering pump is getting done next week, along with pulleys & tensioner.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

Comments, questions invited.
Also do you mind me posting occasional f31 here along with e91 updates?

A coworker of mine bought a diesel F31 at auction for some stupid cheap price, minor front end damage. He installed new grille inserts and drove it as-is for almost two years before buying a new front bumper, the damage was so minimal, just some uneven hood/bumper gaps and a slightly buckled edge of the front of the hood. Very nice cars.

I located a nice diesel F15 that I'm REALLY tempted to buy, excellent price and low mileage, N57 engine, but my family's typical driving is better suited for EV and not a diesel, lots of very short trips only a few times per week. There's also the CA diesel emissions requirements, and the DPF/SCR aren't cheap to replace, just the parts costs alone. I think we're better off keeping the giant old reliable Japanese SUV that we have.

[iv]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

why not just replace the oil pan gasket? way cheaper than getting an M2 and way easier than swapping a new drivetrain. oil pan gasket is NOT that difficult to diy, just need to remove the subframe, not to just lower it.

Well if I put any substantial work into this car it will be for an engine swap. I don’t want to put money into the N51 anymore. Not that there’s anything else wrong with it, or that it’s damaged. It’s actually in really good health but I don’t use this car as a daily anymore. The engine and drivetrain are pretty useless for an enjoyment/performance standpoint.

[iv]

[QUOTE=StradaRedlands;31698850]I hear you on that...

As long as the trans is still good, just ignore the oil pan leak and maybe give it to a family member or friend of the family? Could be another good first car for someone. Then just be the 335i that you want and not mess with swapping everything out.

My $.02 anyway.

Yeah I’m probably just going to tuck it in the corner for now as is until someone I know needs it, or I can come up with a better idea.

The only way I think I’ll make it worth an engine swap is if I can get a good copart deal on a working drivetrain. But if I have the whole engine out I’m going to want to rebuild it anyway, which is in the realm of $10k for doing it how I want, the right way. Gaskets, new crank/connecting rods etc.

[StradaRedlands]

[QUOTE=iv;31699489]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

I hear you on that...

As long as the trans is still good, just ignore the oil pan leak and maybe give it to a family member or friend of the family? Could be another good first car for someone. Then just be the 335i that you want and not mess with swapping everything out.

My $.02 anyway.

Yeah I’m probably just going to tuck it in the corner for now as is until someone I know needs it, or I can come up with a better idea.

The only way I think I’ll make it worth an engine swap is if I can get a good copart deal on a working drivetrain. But if I have the whole engine out I’m going to want to rebuild it anyway, which is in the realm of $10k for doing it how I want, the right way. Gaskets, new crank/connecting rods etc.

$10k will buy you a good chunk of a new car!