[cw09021199328is]

Great post - thank you!

[JohnGrayo]

yes

[JoshAE90]

Perfect pose, thanks for posting this!

[Stevenz1]

Thanks for your time on loading this

[Domantas]

nice post

[Mathilda]

Great work! Thanks!

[rice320i]

Hey you all. Im old and lost... Ive never done this sort of thing. I having some, well not some alot, trouble with my daughters 335xi. specifically engine trouble and i dont know how to go about posting, or whatever i need to do, or the correct way to do it?? So, when someone get min will you please let me know if im in right spot? I didn even know what user cp was!! Man

[ctuna]

Go to the general page at the top it says New Topic
Start a thread . As I remember you need to do a number of
responses before you can post.

If you read this post it describes the normal problems that come
with this car.

Also the subforums are highly useful

bmw boards and links
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=99
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=2
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=122
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=368
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16
https://bimmerretrofit.com/store/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=378

Use mdecoder.com to find out what options and Engine you have.
could be N54 or N55

[S1KRR18]

Great post - very insightful to my recent purchase.

[Motoyuki Usami]

Nice to meet you. Thank you.

[torinocobrascj@gmail.com]

good info, thanks for sharing!

[Gabriel1273]

Yep I completely agree

[Stuartwhite1989]

Good post

[Joshe93]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

E9X Discord Chat Group: https://discord.gg/sKMXR9

How to buy a used E9X BMW 3 Series

So, you want to get into a nice German money pit? Your Camry only cost you oil and gas but the allure of a blue and white roundel keeps you up at night. But in all seriousness these cars are a tremendous value for money. But every BMW will require a little bit of love or it will leave you stranded. BMW's need proper servicing and care or they will break. Japanese cars are designed to take abuse and still function everyday. Once you read this guide you will be an expert on the E9X and be able to purchase a properly maintained car that will give you many years of loyal service. There is no reason why any loved E9X couldn’t last for 300,000 miles or more.


The basics of buying any used car:

Go watch videos 1 through 5 of Chris Fix’s "How to buy a used car" series. He did an amazing job of explaining everything you need to look for when buying a used car. This applies to buying $100k cars at a dealer or a $1k car of Craigslist. The key is you should find out everything about the car BEFORE you buy it and not after.

The differences between buying from a private party, used car or new car dealer:

Dealers exist because they are convenient, not because their cars are better than a private party. I always prefer buying from a private party as you save thousands over a dealer, you almost always get service records, you get to meet the actual owner of the car and you can get a sense of what life the car lived. That being said, it can be very difficult to deal with private sellers and with a dealer you can test drive a bunch of cars in a short amount of time. In my opinion I would test drive a few cars at dealer to know what options you want. Then you can look around for the perfect car for you at a dealer or from a private party.

When looking at private party car listings you should always look for an informative listing with a lot of pictures. Was the car cleaned out or does it look like rats live in there? Is the car at their house or is it at a mechanic's shop? Does the owner have a good understanding of the English language? Normally, If the seller took time to create a good listing, they are more likely to have taken pride in ownership of their car. Remember, if you do not have a receipt then the work was not done!

For dealers it is a curve ball; I have been to many new car dealers that pedal sub $10,000 junk and to back ally car lots that sold decent cars. Show up dressed like a decent human being. You don’t need a suit but make sure you do not look like trash. Remember you are running the show and if they dick you around just stand up and walk out. Don’t treat them bad, but run the show. Younger people will have a harder time at a dealership. You will need to push a bit harder to get noticed.

Should I buy a car with an accident on the Carfax?

Accidents depreciate cars 10%-30% over a clean Carfax car. I would buy an accident car if it had full documentation of the repairs by a highly rated body shop. Anything less than that walk away. I have seen my fair share of absolutely botched repairs.

Should I buy a salvage or rebuilt title car?

If you are reading this guide then absolutely not. Rebuilt or salvage cars have been in a significant accident were the insurance company deemed it cheaper for them to replace the car, then to have it repaired. Often in states with relaxed salvage title laws people will poorly repair these vehicles and then resell them on back ally car lots or private party. If you are a highly experienced car buyer then buying a salvage car maybe would be a good idea. Note, this is concerning cars from an insurance auction. If your E9X that you already own was in a light accident and the insurance declared it a total loss then a lot of times it is worth it to buy the car back and have it fixed.

“I found a car I want to buy, what do I do next?”

Ask if they have any service records. Then take the car for an independent pre-purchase inspection at a shop that specializes in European cars. This is vital as they can scan the car with a very expensive diagnostic tool and know everything that is wrong with the car. Even expert car buyers can't see everything at a car lot


All of the different models:

E90= Sedan

E91= Wagon

E92= Coupe

E93= Convertible

LCI vs Non LCI



LCI = Life Cycle Impulse: The facelift of the E9X starting with the 2009 model year. LCI cars have different taillights, headlights, mirrors, hood, trunk, climate controls, sun visors, navigation system, and a few more bits and bobs. They removed engine insulation, keyhole for the trunk, cooling for the center console, flashlight in the glove box, rear cup holders, rear storage nets and ruined the base stereo. LCI cars hold a few thousand premium over pre-LCI.

Options, engines and models will vary depending on your location, this is based off the US Market.


Pre-LCI Models:

2006 BMW 330i
255HP 3.0l N52 NA inline six cylinder

2006 BMW 325i:
215HP 2.5l N52 NA inline six cylinder

2007-2008 BMW 328i:
231HP 3.0l N52 NA inline six cylinder

2007-2008 BMW 335i:
302HP N54 Twin Turbo inline six cylinder


LCI Models:

2009-2013 BMW 328i:
231HP 3.0l N52 NA inline six cylinder

2009-2010 BMW 335i:
302HP N54 or N55 Twin Turbo inline six cylinder
(*2009-2010 335i cars may have a N54 or N55)

2011-2013 BMW 335i:
302HP N55 Single Turbo inline six cylinder

2011-2013 BMW 335is:
322HP N54 Twin Turbo inline six cylinder

2009-2011 BMW 335d:
282HP M57 Turbo Diesel six cylinder

SULV cars have the N51 which is a modified N52. N51 cars have more emissions BS.

Naturally aspirated (NA) cars are the most reliable of the E9X. BMW have been making NA inline six cylinder engines for forever and it shows. The 335i is a rocket ship and you can very easily make almost 500HP with basic bolt on parts. The 335d is not worth it out of warranty IMO. BMW used a very complicated emissions setup to get it to pass strict US diesel emissions standards. This system has been known to fail and cost a lot of money to repair.


X-Drive or four-wheel drive is available for all models. Only get an X-Drive car only if you NEED it. I would rather have an RWD E9X with winter tires then a X-Drive with all seasons. Anyone north of New York could benefit from X-Drive. X-Drive cars are noticeably harder and more expensive to maintain over RWD cars.

Pricing for the E9X goes from $3,000 to $30,000 depending on location, year, condition, mileage, model, options, ect. Check KBB.com for accurate pricing for the exact model you want in your area.

Packages: (This was pulled from the 2009 options list. Different years had slightly different options and packages.)

ZCW Cold Weather Package:

465 Fold down rear seats w/ski bag
494 Heated front seats
502 Retractable headlight washers

ZPP Premium Package:

319 Universal Garage Door Opener
430 Auto-dimming mirrors
431 Auto-dimming rearview mirror
459 Power front seats 488 Lumbar support
4NA Digital compass mirror
639 BMW Assist w/Bluetooth System LC Leather Dakota

ZSP Sport Package

255 Sports leather steering wheel or 2XA Sport steering wheel w/paddles
2S1 17" wheels w/ mixed tires (style 286)
481 Sport seats
704 Sport suspension
760 Shadowline trim
840 Increased top speed limiter

Options:

205 STEPTRONIC automatic trans. 2KU 17" wheels w/all-season tires (style 285)
2XA Sport steering wheel w/paddles
322 Comfort Access system
417 Manual side/rear power shades
459 Power front seats
465 Fold down rear seats w/ski bag
494 Heated front seats
4A3 Light Burl Walnut trim
4B9 Aluminum Trim
508 Park Distance Control
522 Xenon headlights
541 Active Cruise Control
609 Navigation system
639 BMW Assist w/Bluetooth System
653 HD radio 655 Satellite radio w/1 year sub.
677 Logic7 sound system
6FL iPod and USB adapter

Pre LCI brochure (Canada Market)


LCI brochure

Options and packages are very important on any BMW. They can add thousands in value over other cars. It is not like most other car's were you have two choices of interior color and that is about it. Make sure you get the options you want as retrofitting them latter can be a difficult and expensive task. Run each vin through https://www.bmwvin.com/ to see all of the options each car has.

IMO, I would not buy a E9X without Xenon headlights and the convenience package.

Reliability, common problems and maintenance:

If you want a reliable car go buy a Toyota product. These are dependable cars, not reliable cars. If you let the car go for maintenance it will total itself out. If you keep up with it you will never join the tow truck club.

N52, N54 and N55 powered cars:

Electric water pump and thermostat:
All E9X cars have an electric water pump that will go out past 60k miles. It is common practice to replace this before it leaves you stranded. Cost: $1000 - $1200 at a shop or DIY for $400.

Starter failure:
The starter, especially on early cars, tends to go out at around 80k miles. Cost: $600 to $1300 at a shop or $200 DIY

Belt tensioner:
Sometimes the tensioner will start to bend causing the belt to slip off and grenade everything around it. Cost: (if nothing was damaged): $300 to $600 at a shop, $100 DIY.

Oil filter housing gasket:
The OFHG will start to leak around 80k. The oil will drip onto the belt and destroy the belt. If this happens you run the risk of causing extensive damage to the engine. Cost: $300 to $600 at a shop, $50 DIY.

Valve cover gasket with eccentric shaft sensor seal:
Every single BMW has a leaky VCG around 80k miles. Cost: $600 to $1000 at a shop or $100 DIY

Oil pan gasket:
The oil pan gasket will start to sweat at around 80k miles and require replacement before 140k miles. Cost: $700 to $1800 at a shop, $100 DIY.

N54:

Intake carbon buildup:
Carbon will build up in the intake side of the head. This needs to be walnut
blasted away between 35k and 50k miles. Cost: $350 to $800. $300 DIY the first time then $30 every time after.

Waste gate rattle:
This can be fixed by turning the rear actuator rod 2.5 turns and shimming the front actuator with two, U shaped #8 washers. This fix is temporary in nature which can last 1,000 miles or 40,000 miles or more. Turbo replacement is the permanent fix. Cost: $2000-7000 at a shop, $1700 DIY.

Coil packs:
The coils will go bad and cause a misfire. Cost: $600 at a shop, $200 DIY.

Bad fuel injectors:
These will also cause a misfire. Cost: $2000 at a shop, $1300 DIY.

N55:

Coil packs:
Will go bad and cause misfire. Cost: $ 600 at a shop, $200 DIY.


DIY:

Easy:

• Oil Change
• Air filters
• Coolant flush
• Differential and transfer case fluids
• Spark plugs and coil packs
• Drive belt and tensioner

Moderate:

• Valve cover gasket
• Starter motor
• Water pump and thermostat
• OFHG
• Fuel Injectors
• Walnut Blasting
• Automatic transmission fluid and filter

Hard

• Oil pan gasket
• Turbo replacment

Learning how to turn a wrench saves a lot of money. I remember I did a cooling system overhaul on my E36 when I was 16. I didn't know what the hell I was doing and never turned a wrench before. I took my time and powered through without too much difficulty. Even DIYing little things on your car will save a lot of money in labor.

Maintenance notes:

(Many people have different views on maintenance intervals. These are the intervals I follow with my own car. If your intervals differ from mine that is fine as all cars are driven under different conditions.)

• Oil Change every 5,000 to 7,500 miles or six months
• Coolant every two years
• Brake Fluid every two years
• Transmission, differential and transfer case (X-drive only) fluids every 60,000 miles (BMW states these are lifetime fluids)
• Power steering fluid at 60,000 miles, reservoir at 120,000 miles
• Spark plugs every 45,000 miles for N54, 60,000 miles for N55 or 80k-100k miles for any non-turbo
• Drive belt and tensioner every 80k-100k miles
• O2 sensors as needed
• Shocks, tires, brakes and suspension as needed
• Clutch as needed

BMW states their automatic transmission fluid is a lifetime fluid. This is false, most transmissions will make it to 150k on the original fluid but then anything past that they will start having catastrophic issues. IMO, I would not buy an auto E9X past 125k miles that you did not have documented proof that the transmission fluid was changed. If your car is above 60k then change the transmission fluid and filter.

Tires:

BMW equipped these cars with run flat tires from the factory with the claim they can drive up to 50 miles at 50 miles per hour after a puncture. Run flat tires are expensive, they ride hard, are heavy and wear out more quickly then a conventional, all season tire. It is very common for people to swap these out for a conventional tire and throw a spare tire in the trunk. When you are looking at a E9X, make sure the tires have good tread on them, are not dry rotted and have a ratting of at least A A.Click here for information about the UTQG rating system.



Forum favorite part websites:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/
https://www.bavauto.com/
https://www.fcpeuro.com/
http://www.bimmerworld.com/
https://www.ecstuning.com/
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/
https://www.autohausaz.com/


Diagnostics and Coding

Go buy a Windows 7 32bit laptop and install BMW standard Tools and ISTA. These will help diagnose and code your car. I have saved over $1000 with these tools and a D can cable.


Closing Thoughts:

If you want a dependable daily driver I would purchase a N52 (LCI or non LCI) powered car with around 80k to 100k miles. Preferably a car that has had all of the major service items completed already. I bought my car with 80k on the clock that just had the water pump, thermostat, VCG, OFHG repaired and a brand new set of run flat tires put on. Yearly operating cost should be around $2,000 for maintenance and repairs at a trusted, independent mechanic. People who try and DIY everything can push the costs down to bellow $1000 a year. Turbo cars will have slightly higher operating cost. All E9X cars require 91 octane so that should be considered at purchase as well. You now should have all of the information you need to buy a good example of an E9X or any car for that matter. If you can take your time with the car buying processes; wait until you find "the car". Many forum members who bought a good E9X and DIY their repairs as much as possible will spend no more a year then on a Camry. If I missed anything, which I am sure I have, please tell me bellow and I will add it to the guide. This is a living breathing document that will be updated.

A super write up! I bought a 2011 e93 n52 and I can say this covers everything I pulled from dif message boards. I also raised the car at a shop to see the guibos, suspension, etc and was very impressed at the tightness of quality. 9 yrs old And looked new!
Ty for the write up!
P,S. Found paperwork where last owner just did valve cover, and another 6k worth of work!

[rRadler]

Tomorrow I'm most probably purchasing a used 325i E91. Could not be more convenient to find this thread.

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by rRadler

Tomorrow I'm most probably purchasing a used 325i E91. Could not be more convenient to find this thread.

AFAIK, there is no such car as a 325i e91. Maybe a 328i?

[rRadler]

There is, at least in Europe. A 325i 2.5 liter (N52 engine code) until 2007 and 3.0 liter direct injection (N53) from 2007 on. Seemingly the former is more reliable.

[$spending]

Nice post 👍🏽

[bdogbmw2011]

Nice post

[alyu@msn.com]

I wish I had read this post before I bought a 2006 323i which I found out an accident car now. Sad...

[trader14]

great post, I didn't see this post until now 7 years into this forum and of course after purchasing my used bmw but this is what I did - maybe typical, maybe i got lucky

Back in 2013 I purchased a used e93 cpo bmw with 45k miles sight unseen and had it shipped to me from the bmw dealership. Of course I saw every picture of the exterior and interior but since it was cpo i assumed it'd be in great shape and if not it would be covered under their warranty.

During the CPO period there were a couple minor things done but nothing that really stands out. My thoughts are that because they car went through their "rigorous" inspection that because of that we have had few problems. In the 6 years since the cpo expired we've really done little to the car but here is a list:
1) replaced the rubber coolant flange with a aluminum one as they rubber has a tendency to melt. Cost $65 installed (part $15)
2) likely replaced brake pads a couple times most recently last week (rear) and rotor also rear cost - $60 parts and $110 labor (dealership quoted $900)
3) may have replaced battery prior I don't remember but replaced the battery a couple days ago - $159 installed (dealership quoted $500)
4) Windshield reservoir clogged - $50 labor (dealership quoted $450 to replace)
5) valve cover gasket - cost $30 labor to tighten it (dealership quoted $700 to replace)
6) replaced tires 4 years ago, front tires still doing great however rear tires will be replaced over the next month - cost will be $199 for the rear pair installed
7) we do replace the oil when needed...sometimes driving a couple thousand miles past when it was due
8) a couple years ago did spark plugs ( i can't remember but i thought they were roughly $12 each and the guy who replaced them did that for nothing worth mentioning as he was at our house working on a different car already.
8) at some point i'd like to swap the fluids (differential, transmission, coolant). Brake fluid looks brand new and after reading about some fails look at water pump and thermostat replacement.

we don't drive much - the car was purchased in 2013 w 45k and today it has 95k but if i was buying another bmw given the luck we had with the cpo program i wouldn't hesitate to do it again and would suggest others do the same...or we just got lucky.

most importantly I love the car as much today as the day it was delivered - we don't drive aggressively and even yesterday i got that warm fun feeling driving with the top down, car on cruise control at 70mph enjoying the drive and the sun letting cars zip by me left and right

[Buug959]

Great post, very informative and I'm sure very helpful to those buying one of their first cars or those that are looking more for a list of things to look for when shopping for their first 3 series.
I am old enough and experienced enough and stupid enough to do it all COMPLETELY WRONG. LOL I really took a huge gamble when I bought my '08 335xi. I saw three whole photos of it. One from square on the rear, one from square on the passengers side and one of the interior through the open passenger's door. I didn't see the driver's side or the front although I could just make out the tow hook in the front bumper on the passenger's side. I never heard it run and in fact I wasn't entirely sure it did run. All I did know was that " there is oil running down the block" and " a rear shock is wet". Oh did I mention that it was at a BMW dealer 2000km away and was being sold "AS IS".
I gave the dealer my Visa number and said put it on a truck. Nine days later it is at my door on a rollback tow truck and the driver is asking me if it runs because he couldn't get it started. I had to tell him that I had no idea if it ran at all. It turns out it started and ran just fine once you actually put the key IN THE SLOT before you try to start it. LOL The driver thought it was just a proximity key and only had to be near the car.
A new valve cover and the "oil running down the block" is all dried up and the new suspension is on order.
I was INCREDIBLY LUCKY!!! It's a wonderful little car. Everything works as it should and the interior is in fantastic shape for a car with 160k kms on it.
So if you're still reading this I have one piece of advice for you and that is DO NOT DO WHAT I DID!!! Read through the original post and follow it. You'll have a great chance to find a great car of your own that you can enjoy for years to come.
This is my very first view of the car other than the three photos mentioned above. Notice the tow hook still in the bumper.