[Buug959]

Originally Posted by nsjames

these have been on my junk for a year no without issue.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Dynami...2/233568826015

plug and play, not harness cutting.

if you're looking for options.

Thanx for the link. Those look good too but I have already ordered the ones that eljay used. They appear to be very similar to the stock side lights and I prefer that look. If I had black shadow line trim I'd probably go with your suggestion but I have bright aluminum trim and I think the clear ones will match up better.

[nsjames]

they're not tinted.
I replaced smoked ones with these when I went back to silver wheels.

[Buug959]

They appear quite a bit grayer on the ebay page than the ones on eljay's photo. Oh well, we'll see when they come in. It's not like they're gonna break the bank if I'm not happy with them. Also, my car is in storage until spring so I have lots of time to order something else.

[nsjames]

they aren't as reflective because there's no reflector.

but the flip side to that is it doesn't look like an egg yolk with a yellow bulb in there.

[tlow98]

I like the look of those. I bought the TYC ones on Rockauto. They look almost identical to OE ones on the exterior, however, they are not OEM - the rear is slightly different. Still plug/play however.

[eljay]

Thanks nsjames!
I looked at the dynamic LED options too including the silver one, but I still like the OEM reflector look.

What I will do though is replace the bulb with a stealth one. Those are the ones that look silver, but still light up amber.

I thought of putting in an amber LED wedge bulb, but I believe those would throw a light out error without a resistor, correct?

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

Thanks nsjames!
I looked at the dynamic LED options too including the silver one, but I still like the OEM reflector look.

What I will do though is replace the bulb with a stealth one. Those are the ones that look silver, but still light up amber.

I thought of putting in an amber LED wedge bulb, but I believe those would throw a light out error without a resistor, correct?

I put the silver chromed bulbs in my wife's volvo and it makes it look way less eewwwww.

You can do LED, you have to code out the warm and cold bulb checks and the bulb error.
No different than replacing any other lights with LED.

[eljay]

Final wash & wax on summer wheels



Wheel swap:



And winter mode engaged and xDrive is ready!

[M-technik-3]

Commercial ceramic floor tile? Like the look but would not want the floor because of grout lines. Shame winter is here already.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by M-technik-3

Commercial ceramic floor tile? Like the look but would not want the floor because of grout lines. Shame winter is here already.

Porcelain outdoor tile. Grout is now sealed, let's see how it holds up to salt. Grout is not a problem for rolling tools around and the cleanup is incredibly easy after the rear brake job. Sweep up and wipe. Done. With concrete, stuff would get soaked into it and dropping a drop or two of antiseize or other grease, I'd have to immediately clean it up. Now, I just wipe it off.

[M-technik-3]

Creeper get stuck in the lines? Quickjack is nice for minor maintenance, would love a a two post but my garage would require major reconstruction

[eljay]

Originally Posted by M-technik-3

Creeper get stuck in the lines? Quickjack is nice for minor maintenance, would love a a two post but my garage would require major reconstruction

I haven't tried a creeper, but rolling around engine on stand and heavy stuff on a dolly is not a problem.

[eljay]

In other news, yesterday, I got an "SOS Call System Malfunction" error message and I have no sound whatsoever in the car now.
From a quick read, it sounds like quite a headache to chase down.
I will scan the car tonight and see if I can identify the culprit module and check the fuses.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

In other news, yesterday, I got an "SOS Call System Malfunction" error message and I have no sound whatsoever in the car now.
From a quick read, it sounds like quite a headache to chase down.
I will scan the car tonight and see if I can identify the culprit module and check the fuses.

logic 7?

sounds like TCU failure things, probably took out the most bus.
do you have the most loopback adapters?

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

logic 7?

sounds like TCU failure things, probably took out the most bus.
do you have the most loopback adapters?

Sounds like I need to school myself on all of this as I'm not sure what MOST adapters are etc.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

Sounds like I need to school myself on all of this as I'm not sure what MOST adapters are etc.

when a most module freaks it takes down the whole fiber optic bus.

it's like an old token ring network.

You need the loopback adapters so you can unplug a device, and reconnect the two ends of the fiber back together.

so somewhere, likely, a most module has died, and when it tok out the most bus your amp lost the data for audio, and you got the SOS error cause the TCU is on it too.

the easy way to diagnose them is to unplug them and loopback it and see if the bus comes back up.

bmw doesn't use the standard connection, so you have to take off the outer shell on these, but they're cheap and work. the actual fiber optic spacing and connection is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/RENYIAO-Bypas...ST57TP1ZFP1XCM

[eljay]

I tried to scan the car, but when trying to access some modules like Amp, Radio etc. I get the error in the attached pic: Data Transmission to Control Unit Disturbed.

So, what is toast here? Or is INPA useless for this since any module communication will be gone until the loop is restored?
So, only physical loop troubleshooting applies?

I guess I need to read up on what my car has. I know it's pretty loaded with CIC, Nav, Bluetooth, Comfort Access etc. It is the weird July of 2009 build that has that CIC, which cannot be updated.

[HMS_Louis]

Originally Posted by eljay

I tried to scan the car, but when trying to access some modules like Amp, Radio etc. I get the error in the attached pic: Data Transmission to Control Unit Disturbed.

So, what is toast here? Or is INPA useless for this since any module communication will be gone until the loop is restored?
So, only physical loop troubleshooting applies?

I guess I need to read up on what my car has. I know it's pretty loaded with CIC, Nav, Bluetooth, Comfort Access etc. It is the weird July of 2009 build that has that CIC, which cannot be updated.

Most likely your Satellite radio receiver. I had this happen to me with the same error pop up. If you don't use satellite radio (I just use Spotify through the aux), you can buy a MOST bypass off Amazon for like $8. It'll essentially bypass the satellite radio receiver making it useless but bring back everything else in the loop.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

I tried to scan the car, but when trying to access some modules like Amp, Radio etc. I get the error in the attached pic: Data Transmission to Control Unit Disturbed.

So, what is toast here? Or is INPA useless for this since any module communication will be gone until the loop is restored?
So, only physical loop troubleshooting applies?

I guess I need to read up on what my car has. I know it's pretty loaded with CIC, Nav, Bluetooth, Comfort Access etc. It is the weird July of 2009 build that has that CIC, which cannot be updated.

you got it.

it's process of elimination plugging in bypass loops until the bus comes back.
when it's down, nothing on it works. thankfully it's all easily accessible in the cargo floor.

I literally just left my most loops back there so I don't have to go looking for them again.
mine had a sdars unit that would quit intermittently. Hear a weird noise from the speakers, everything quit for 30 seconds, then it would come back.

since you already have cic, it wouldn't be a big deal to drop a c1a unit into your car.
once you figure out the software to force new FSC codes on it it takes about 2 hours start to finish.
BTDT, took me a week to get the right version and make it work.

edit:
just pop the cargo floo and look for the thick green "wires" those are the most fiber. You can look for the red light in the fiber, but I've found bypassing them and trying it to be easier, since they're all pretty much right there in an e91

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

you got it.

it's process of elimination plugging in bypass loops until the bus comes back.
when it's down, nothing on it works. thankfully it's all easily accessible in the cargo floor.

I literally just left my most loops back there so I don't have to go looking for them again.
mine had a sdars unit that would quit intermittently. Hear a weird noise from the speakers, everything quit for 30 seconds, then it would come back.

since you already have cic, it wouldn't be a big deal to drop a c1a unit into your car.
once you figure out the software to force new FSC codes on it it takes about 2 hours start to finish.
BTDT, took me a week to get the right version and make it work.

edit:
just pop the cargo floo and look for the thick green "wires" those are the most fiber. You can look for the red light in the fiber, but I've found bypassing them and trying it to be easier, since they're all pretty much right there in an e91

Does this set have the right connectors?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KPGZPLL/

I'm in Canada, so looking at choices on Amazon.ca

[nsjames]

yeah, you'll just have to remove the outer shell.
it pops off and it leaves you with just the insert that has the two fiber connections in it.

[eljay]

I got an error message about brake pad wear indicator and found out that my rear brake pad wear sensor is just hanging and no longer attached to the pad. It must've come loose as I didn't guide it through the rubber holder that is part of the bleeder screw cap. Don't skip this step when you bleed your brakes boys and girls!
I'm happy that I saved the good sensor that came with my 335i calipers, so I took the wheel off and removed a part of the wheel liner and unclipped the old sensor wire and installed the "new" one and the error went away.

BUT, in the process of getting behind the liner, I discovered that one of the connectors leading to the battery box is badly corroded and the housing is cracked. I've since read that they are both 12V leads with one going to the starter/alternator and the other powering the DME and electronics. I need to read uo to find which is which. So, the next question is how to fix this before it leaves me stranded somewhere.
Can just that part be replaced? I hope it's not part of a looong battery cable that leads to the engine compartment that needs to be replaced as a whole.

Would this have anything to do with my SOS malfunction error? I guess I should really check the fuse box now to see if all is well there.

Oh and while I had the car lifted, I noticed that the bump stop on the rear driver's side shock is split in half and the top of the shock shaft has corrosion on it. I hope it lasts the winter as I will be installing ST coilovers in the spring.

It seems that I'm on a roll with fix one, find one.