Wastegate Ticking Resolved Without Getting 29.2! Works With 29.2 As Well!

thwgw24 · 06-09-2011, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcorn

If you guys don't have a 4mm wrench, make one. I took a piece of flat aluminum, maybe 2" long and 1/2" wide and filed a thin channel into it with a tiny file (jewelers file?) to fit the flat part on the actuator. Measured it with calipers to make sure I didn't go too wide. Worked like a charm and it was short enough to be able to turn about 270* around the actuator rod. Kinda hard to get leverage on, but it worked nonetheless.

Been about 2k miles since I adjusted it and still no more rattling.

Can I just buy that piece of metal off you?

vase330 · 06-09-2011, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiteboy

so vase330, what is your issue ? you will replace both turbo with last reference BMW ???

They tried rod, actuators etc no solution. BMW replacing the Turbos as we speak.

This is round two for me already. All those things were prior replaced and the problem eventually came back. My car was sounding weird too and no boosting properly seems maybe the waste-gates were not seating right? I don't know that was what I was told. I'll report back when I get car back. Its been a week now.

Update: Bad solenoid : Replaced.
Noice still there... Repaced both Turbos. Car is now quietor than I remeber it being even when it was new. In addition, the power is back. It feels very very good in deed. Knock on wood things stay this way. This can get very very expensive out of warranty. I am now 5days out of warranty but I took car in for a thorough check and fix before warranty expired. Glad I did!!! Me? ...

Ox11 · 06-16-2011, 10:51 AM

I turned mine 2 revolutions and still have rattle, maybe its my front turbo..

Mr 5: any updates on taking off the water pump and getting to the front snail?

thwgw24 · 06-17-2011, 07:25 PM

just got my car back from a local shop couple hours ago. The rattle is from the front turbo, not the rear. Fxck! Now i'm thinking if I should just replace the front or time for RB's.

mycoupe · 06-18-2011, 02:29 AM

Wow, I am on a reading rampage here lately...just read all 12 pages!!! I just got my catless DP's put on this past week and my wastegate rattle is LOUD now. so sad

I think I am going to try and get some teflon c-clips to see if the side to side slop in the connection between the rod and the lever is the culprit. If that doesn't work, I'll be trying this.

Few questions though:

1. By doing this, are we making the wastegate in the exhaust housing be closed more or be more open?
2. Anyone try removing the waterpump to adjust the front one yet?
3. When the car is off, is the wastegate in the open position or closed position? Would like to know so I can take a slightly scientific approach to how many turns I make.

mycoupe · 06-21-2011, 02:04 PM

Hey, just an idea...but could we not just remove the front actuator and rod, adjust it, then put it back on...all without removing the front turbo?

Topless///M · 06-21-2011, 04:46 PM

I was thinking maybe pop off the e-clip on the front wastegate arm pin, slide rod end off and rotate it to tighten. Maybe put like a 2.5" long pin in there for leverage to tighten it?? Probably not enough room for that either...

Joe- · 06-21-2011, 07:50 PM

Can this also affect the 30FF code thrown for low boost/boost leak?

dcorn · 06-22-2011, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thwgw24

Can I just buy that piece of metal off you?

Haha, I'd like to keep it just in case. I might end up adjusting the wastegate a tad more because I still get rattle when I let off the gas to shift.

thwgw24 · 06-22-2011, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcorn

Haha, I'd like to keep it just in case. I might end up adjusting the wastegate a tad more because I still get rattle when I let off the gas to shift.

No problem. Found out it's the front turbo rattling. Not adjustable anyway.

samchoi604 · 07-28-2011, 05:48 AM

Mr. 5, great job on this!

I think you really need to update the first post with the correct tools (3/16" craftsman mini) posted a few pages back and also explain the correct directions to turn (towards engine for the nut, away from engine for the rod) so others don't have to dig through each page to solve this mystery.

ar_mike · 08-24-2011, 02:45 AM

Are peoples' N54s getting the wastegate rattle constantly when they lift off the throttle regardless of cold start/warmed up/ etc??

The reason is that my 335i has the rattle on any start (cold or warm). However, after a minute or so, it seems like something clicks and the rattle is gone. I tried adjusting the rod as mentioned in the beginning of this thread 2 rotations but the problem persists, rattling on every start. Is anyone else getting the same behavior? Perhaps got it fixed even?

Thanks,
Michael

JunkStory · 08-24-2011, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar_mike

Are peoples' N54s getting the wastegate rattle constantly when they lift off the throttle regardless of cold start/warmed up/ etc??

The reason is that my 335i has the rattle on any start (cold or warm). However, after a minute or so, it seems like something clicks and the rattle is gone. I tried adjusting the rod as mentioned in the beginning of this thread 2 rotations but the problem persists, rattling on every start. Is anyone else getting the same behavior? Perhaps got it fixed even?

Thanks,
Michael

I'll try it out and let you know. For me, the rattle certainly happens during cold start, but I never tried it after warmup. I did the DIY in this thread with 2 rotations, but the problem persists.

JunkStory · 08-26-2011, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar_mike

Are peoples' N54s getting the wastegate rattle constantly when they lift off the throttle regardless of cold start/warmed up/ etc??

The reason is that my 335i has the rattle on any start (cold or warm). However, after a minute or so, it seems like something clicks and the rattle is gone. I tried adjusting the rod as mentioned in the beginning of this thread 2 rotations but the problem persists, rattling on every start. Is anyone else getting the same behavior? Perhaps got it fixed even?

Thanks,
Michael

Well, I just tried it out today as I promised, and my result is actually opposite from yours. Everything tested with windows open inside my garage.

On cold start, I get no waste gate rattle (I did 2 revolutions on the rod).

After warming up (driving my car for a few miles) and returning to my garage, oil temp is at about 220F, I DO get wastegate rattle. If anyone can understand what's going on, please chime in.

ar_mike · 08-27-2011, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JunkStory

Well, I just tried it out today as I promised, and my result is actually opposite from yours. Everything tested with windows open inside my garage.

On cold start, I get no waste gate rattle (I did 2 revolutions on the rod).

After warming up (driving my car for a few miles) and returning to my garage, oil temp is at about 220F, I DO get wastegate rattle. If anyone can understand what's going on, please chime in.

That's actually pretty weird! I'm afraid to do any more revolutions as I've heard rods that are too loose are better than rods that are too tight. I'm still not sure if it's my front wastegate or the rear wastegate. After the 2 revolutions, it doesn't seem like it had any effect on the behavior of the rattle. Does that imply it's the front wastegates?

Sidefly · 08-28-2011, 08:31 PM

OK, so i just completed the golftee/BB/hose crimp mod for my noisy exhaust flapper (I went with the crimp)... So I figured what the heck I would try this. I was only able to tighten mine about 3/4 of one turn, it just wouldn't move anymore with my custom tool. But it WORKED! It is nice to hear my car without the metal flap and metal jiggles from all around.

Questions:

What is the default position of the wastegate when the car is off? Open or closed? When I started the car it moved to a new position and stayed there, when my wife rev'd the car I didn't see the arm moving at all? It did move back though when I shut the car off. Does it only move under load?

GTO · 10-16-2011, 01:16 PM

I just gave it 4 turns, I am not having any luck, any suggestions? should I go the opposite way?

takrdown · 11-07-2011, 07:36 PM

Has anyone been able to do this in a 135 from the top of the engine? I found the rod, but I can't even get my 10mm in there to loosen the nutt let alone spin the rod. Ideas? Not a lot of room in there....

takrdown · 11-10-2011, 08:19 AM

I just want to update. I can't thank you enough Mr. 5! I was able to figure this out on a 135i and I'm all fixed!

I started a thread over at 1addicts:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...1#post10777075

No pics, but it's pretty much the same as a 335 with the exception of the tight quarters in the engine bay.

Thanks again!

runz12s · 03-22-2012, 09:52 AM

Did this adjustment, three turns, no luck. Found out I actually have side to side movement where the rod meets the flap. Anybody run into this and can it be fixed, I have the upgraded units already from BMW.

runz12s · 03-22-2012, 12:29 PM

.

tlrid3r · 04-06-2012, 11:58 AM

I been having the rattle issue for months now and finally decide to take it to the dealer. The rattle would happen all the time (cold or warm). Well I have had really good luck at this dealer so I figured to give a try. Took it in today and saw the adviser (lady) told her about the issue and she sadi, "that's most likely normal" and I told her she was mistaken. I have a good relationship with the shop foreman so I told her to call him out. He came to my car, I told him about the issue. He start my car and reved it, soon as he heard the rattle, he shuts it off and goes, "we will replace the turbos and waste assembly, on warranty. Pick up your car later today".

Got a call from the dealer later on the day and they said they are working it, but the updated turbos didn't show up till later afternoon so they will keep the car till tmr. When I first bought the car I brought for its first service and I gave a gift to the foreman and since them he has be really cool. That $25 spent is well worth it for the work they have done with no hassle or question. My car is also modded. (lowered, wheels and JB-4) only thing I remove is the jb-4. With the jb-4 on map 1 I was having major issues. hope this helps

New turbos

once I get the car back I'll update on how it runs

06-16-2011, 10:51 AM	#245
Ox11 Private 2 Rep 57 Posts Drives: 335 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: DMV iTrader: (1)	I turned mine 2 revolutions and still have rattle, maybe its my front turbo.. Mr 5: any updates on taking off the water pump and getting to the front snail?
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06-17-2011, 07:25 PM	#246
thwgw24 Major 60 Rep 1,065 Posts Drives: RB PWRED E90 N54 6MT Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bellevue, WA iTrader: (19) Garage List 07' E90 335i [0.00]	just got my car back from a local shop couple hours ago. The rattle is from the front turbo, not the rear. Fxck! Now i'm thinking if I should just replace the front or time for RB's. __________________ RB Turbo/Procede V5/Vishnu PWM Meth Injection Kit/Vishnu DCI/AR Catless DP/AE Performance Exhaust(Sold)/Helix FMIC/Forge DVs/Rixster Vent Boost Gauge/Wavetrac LSD/KW V3/ACT Street Clutch Kit
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06-18-2011, 02:29 AM	#247
mycoupe Banned 60 Rep 1,495 Posts Drives: 07 335i coupe 6spd Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: cincinnati, Ohio iTrader: (5)	Wow, I am on a reading rampage here lately...just read all 12 pages!!! I just got my catless DP's put on this past week and my wastegate rattle is LOUD now. so sad I think I am going to try and get some teflon c-clips to see if the side to side slop in the connection between the rod and the lever is the culprit. If that doesn't work, I'll be trying this. Few questions though: 1. By doing this, are we making the wastegate in the exhaust housing be closed more or be more open? 2. Anyone try removing the waterpump to adjust the front one yet? 3. When the car is off, is the wastegate in the open position or closed position? Would like to know so I can take a slightly scientific approach to how many turns I make. Last edited by mycoupe; 06-18-2011 at 02:57 AM..
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06-21-2011, 02:04 PM	#248
mycoupe Banned 60 Rep 1,495 Posts Drives: 07 335i coupe 6spd Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: cincinnati, Ohio iTrader: (5)	Hey, just an idea...but could we not just remove the front actuator and rod, adjust it, then put it back on...all without removing the front turbo?
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06-21-2011, 04:46 PM	#249
Topless///M Private First Class 10 Rep 193 Posts Drives: e92 335i 6mt, 94 probe gt Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Jersey iTrader: (0)	I was thinking maybe pop off the e-clip on the front wastegate arm pin, slide rod end off and rotate it to tighten. Maybe put like a 2.5" long pin in there for leverage to tighten it?? Probably not enough room for that either...
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06-21-2011, 07:50 PM	#250
Joe- Lieutenant 19 Rep 522 Posts Drives: 07 E92 335i Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Greenwich CT iTrader: (2)	Can this also affect the 30FF code thrown for low boost/boost leak?
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07-28-2011, 05:48 AM	#253
samchoi604 Colonel 64 Rep 2,334 Posts Drives: black on black Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Burnaby, BC iTrader: (3)	Mr. 5, great job on this! I think you really need to update the first post with the correct tools (3/16" craftsman mini) posted a few pages back and also explain the correct directions to turn (towards engine for the nut, away from engine for the rod) so others don't have to dig through each page to solve this mystery.
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08-24-2011, 02:45 AM	#254
ar_mike Driver 3 Rep 170 Posts Drives: 535i GT xDrive Join Date: May 2011 Location: Bellevue, WA iTrader: (0)	Are peoples' N54s getting the wastegate rattle constantly when they lift off the throttle regardless of cold start/warmed up/ etc?? The reason is that my 335i has the rattle on any start (cold or warm). However, after a minute or so, it seems like something clicks and the rattle is gone. I tried adjusting the rod as mentioned in the beginning of this thread 2 rotations but the problem persists, rattling on every start. Is anyone else getting the same behavior? Perhaps got it fixed even? Thanks, Michael __________________ 2012 BMW 535i GT xDrive \| 2011 BMW X3 xDrive35i
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08-28-2011, 08:31 PM	#258
Sidefly . 6 Rep 53 Posts Drives: 335i M-Sport Coupe - sold! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Kansas City iTrader: (0)	OK, so i just completed the golftee/BB/hose crimp mod for my noisy exhaust flapper (I went with the crimp)... So I figured what the heck I would try this. I was only able to tighten mine about 3/4 of one turn, it just wouldn't move anymore with my custom tool. But it WORKED! It is nice to hear my car without the metal flap and metal jiggles from all around. Questions: What is the default position of the wastegate when the car is off? Open or closed? When I started the car it moved to a new position and stayed there, when my wife rev'd the car I didn't see the arm moving at all? It did move back though when I shut the car off. Does it only move under load? Last edited by Sidefly; 08-28-2011 at 08:44 PM..
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10-16-2011, 01:16 PM	#259
GTO Enlisted Member 0 Rep 44 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335I Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Northern Cal iTrader: (0)	I just gave it 4 turns, I am not having any luck, any suggestions? should I go the opposite way?
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11-07-2011, 07:36 PM	#260
takrdown Other car was a submarine 96 Rep 702 Posts Drives: i4M50 (waiting), 2013 R56 JCW Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Central CT iTrader: (7)	Has anyone been able to do this in a 135 from the top of the engine? I found the rod, but I can't even get my 10mm in there to loosen the nutt let alone spin the rod. Ideas? Not a lot of room in there....
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11-10-2011, 08:19 AM	#261
takrdown Other car was a submarine 96 Rep 702 Posts Drives: i4M50 (waiting), 2013 R56 JCW Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Central CT iTrader: (7)	I just want to update. I can't thank you enough Mr. 5! I was able to figure this out on a 135i and I'm all fixed! I started a thread over at 1addicts: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...1#post10777075 No pics, but it's pretty much the same as a 335 with the exception of the tight quarters in the engine bay. Thanks again!
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03-22-2012, 09:52 AM	#262
runz12s Private 2 Rep 75 Posts Drives: 328i Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: new york iTrader: (0)	Did this adjustment, three turns, no luck. Found out I actually have side to side movement where the rod meets the flap. Anybody run into this and can it be fixed, I have the upgraded units already from BMW.
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03-22-2012, 12:29 PM	#263
runz12s Private 2 Rep 75 Posts Drives: 328i Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: new york iTrader: (0)	.
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04-06-2012, 11:58 AM	#264
tlrid3r just another M3 529 Rep 1,170 Posts Drives: e92 M3 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: San Jose, ca iTrader: (6)	turbo replacement I been having the rattle issue for months now and finally decide to take it to the dealer. The rattle would happen all the time (cold or warm). Well I have had really good luck at this dealer so I figured to give a try. Took it in today and saw the adviser (lady) told her about the issue and she sadi, "that's most likely normal" and I told her she was mistaken. I have a good relationship with the shop foreman so I told her to call him out. He came to my car, I told him about the issue. He start my car and reved it, soon as he heard the rattle, he shuts it off and goes, "we will replace the turbos and waste assembly, on warranty. Pick up your car later today". Got a call from the dealer later on the day and they said they are working it, but the updated turbos didn't show up till later afternoon so they will keep the car till tmr. When I first bought the car I brought for its first service and I gave a gift to the foreman and since them he has be really cool. That $25 spent is well worth it for the work they have done with no hassle or question. My car is also modded. (lowered, wheels and JB-4) only thing I remove is the jb-4. With the jb-4 on map 1 I was having major issues. hope this helps New turbos once I get the car back I'll update on how it runs
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