[bobbykski]

I start my engine (N55 46k) and I've also been experiencing a metallic ticking. Only when the engine first starts up. Any ideas why this is happening?

[hassmaschine]

You have an N54 - similar lifter design, but a different head. I'm not sure it applies.

[Youssef bmw M3 e93 2013]

Hi
I bought Bmw M3 e93 2013 automatic recently I discovered on the first gear there is like clunk jingle shakes that only happen on first gear and when I put reverse is like click I feel that on gear is that normal ?I hope someone there can help a much appreciate

[conceitedreality]

Hmm

[Scoobydo Stu]

I have a similar problem with my 318i, sounds more like a diesel than petrol for the first 15 - 20 minutes

[leegloop]

Same problem with my 320i, but it goes away after driving 5-10 miles.

[JonEQuest]

I have heard that using Lucas Oil stabilizer will thicken the oil and stop the ticking. Anyone have any experience with using an additive?

[Demaccus]

I am having similar problem. My ticking noise isn’t very loud, the hood almost drowns it out. Also, it is faster and increase speeed in short bursts. It sounds like a belt, but I could be wrong. I just bought the car and didn’t hear any such noise during the test drive. Also, the service engine soon light came on, but the code reader says it was just 02 sensor.

https://youtu.be/9IlfDcGgADQ

[grimm1047]

I had the same problem and I used some engine flush and changed my oil to a lighter weigh and it fixed mine instantly. Never heard the ticking again.

[AhmedM3]

Im having this issue now

[Nickco43]

I did an oil change with the OEM 5W-30 oil and dumped the Liqui Moly lifter additive in. After 100 miles my engine sounds quite.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[JOE90BOLAND]

Hi,

I currently have a 2011 bmw 3 series (e90). I have a bit of a bump and nearside rear. When I taken my car to the garage I had a new hub replaced, a new control arm and a new stableiszer bar(I think its called that). the cambering/toeing is out and have taken it to a lazer wheel specialist and they have fixed it the best they can, however still not adjusting properly. The garage that the car was taken to stated that they cant see any other damage and stated that the sub frame seems to be intact. Please could you advise what other thing could be causing the problem, several mechanics have said they are unsure whats causing the problem

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

First second has a very distinct mettalic noise to. I thought it was the exhaust valve but my friend pointed out comes from the front.

I thought it was waste gate rattle but IDK.

[SAK921]

Good shout, I found a ticking noise coming from the crankcase breather.

[adrianhan]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Sounds something plastic loose rattling in closed place. You have 330 which has an intake manifold with two DISA valves on it. One of them may have gotten broken and lose rattling inside. That is one possibility that comes to my mind. If you search for DISA on N52 you will find lots of information.

The other from your description "The noise seems to be coming from below the intake towards the windshield", the crank case ventilation valve that is tucked inside the folds of the intake manifold towards the windshield (firewall) side may have ruptured its membrane and flapping.

There is also possibility that some of the serpentine belt got thrashed to pieces and sucked into the engine through the front crankshaft seal. It is hard to believe this can happen there have been many reports on this, even pictures from inside engine with pieces of belt stuck at the oil pick up line filter. Maybe some piece got also made its way from the crank case into the crank case ventilation valve and flapping around there.

There is also possibility the belt swung and took out some breather line made it loose and rattling.

Good luck!

Forgot to update what actually caused the noise. You were right, it was the broken rubber orange membrane from within the Crankcase Vent Valve (I took apart the valve and the membrane was ripped up). Once I replaced that, sound went away. I did have to replace the breather hose since it was brittle and got damaged during removal.

Crankcase Vent Valve broken membrane pictures:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...DQ?usp=sharing

[wahabishtiaq]

Hi All,

I am new to forum and tried to start my own thread but as being new member i dont have privileges to start my own topic.

Hence i am going to post my desperate troubles here in hope that someone can guide me in right direction. I have a BMW 320i LCI 2009 N43 engine. It has 87k on clock and yes it doesn't have anything wrong with NOX system vs my previous BMW m sports ( nightmare). I have ISTA+ and INPA the i use to diagnose the car and read errors also do the tests etc just little more than basic but not very expert yet.

However i am stuck with strange behaviour of the car:
1, car had multiple errors including the 30EA NOX sulphurisation which i manage to desulphate through INPA successfully within the tolerance after driving it on motorway for 1 hr.
2, now the AUTO S/S not working had issue with brake servo sensor vacuum sensor which i changed but the result is no different.
3, i am listing my errors below, for somehow all the errors are reporting electrical or signal errors and appear on cold start as existent (yes) and then on warm up they appear as existent ( no)
29F3 FLP sensor electric
2A10 exhaust gas circulation sensor, signal
2EF7 MAP thermostat activation ( Dealing with it by replacing the thermo)
2FCE Zero gear sensor, signal
2FD3 Brake vacuum sensor, signal
30C3 Engine oil pressure sensor, signal

Now they all appear within first 3-5 mins of cold start and then when car is warm up they disappear and turn in to no not existent on my ISTA.

For somehow i know the sensors are not faulty and these zeros are ghost errors and they are distracting me and presenting me with dilemma where i will be convinced to spend money on replacing all above sensors if i take the vehicle to dealership and my pocket will be 1k lighter and problems won't resolve, as i did change BRAKE SERVO VACCUM sensor and the problem is still there.

Battery seems to be fully working as its BMW genuine battery and has enough charge and no problem with starting of vehicle.

Any advice geniuses? Please help and get me out of this trouble and nightmare.

/Users/WahabIshtiaq/Downloads/WhatsApp Image 2018-12-24 at 13.03.39.jpeg
/Users/WahabIshtiaq/Downloads/WhatsApp Image 2018-12-24 at 13.03.39 (1).jpeg

Your help will be highly appreciated.

Many Thanks

[Juhnino14]

Yeah you guys have to remember these engines have turbos and even the M sports they suck the oil like it's nothing.. I suggest you buy BMW original oil for it last a little longer. BELIEVE me it makes the difference.
& just maintain your car people you wanted a BMW now you have to deal with it. Lol

[Bilbofraggins]

Originally Posted by Juhnino14

Yeah you guys have to remember these engines have turbos and even the M sports they suck the oil like it's nothing.. I suggest you buy BMW original oil for it last a little longer. BELIEVE me it makes the difference.
& just maintain your car people you wanted a BMW now you have to deal with it. Lol

Given that I have never added any oil to an F28 Xdrive 28i or an E71 X6M between oil changes...I have been surprised to say the least. The quoted consumption is about 1qt per 750/850 miles...With regard to the ///M...that must be when the things are flogged at the track. I don't see it.

Especially given that our N52 was/is a regular consumer.

[CMG2019]

I got my 2014 328i several months ago now, with around 49,000 miles on it, and it does the same thing. It's an odd noise, and unfortunately, I didn't notice it until my neighbor pointed it out. Now I always hear it. Interested to see what others find to fix it.

[n1cul]

Hi guys. I have an E93 320i 2012 N43 125k km and I would appreciate your help. I'l start by apologizing for the length of this post.

I've spent 3 months tracking down the source of my engine noise with zero luck.

Having read a lot of the comments/threads around here, I'm not sure I'll ever get to the cause, as it seems to be subtler than the average.

Where it can be heard from: inside of the car, both passenger and driver seat

When you can hear it: only when the engine is warm. Not present at all when it's cold, or, only sometimes, not even after I've abused the car a little bit. Definitely NEVER present on cold engine. More recently, I've noticed that outside temperature seems to also play a role, strangely, and that the noise is definitely less intense when the outside weather is warmer (this observation takes precedence over of the engine warm/cold thing I mentioned earlier, but I haven't confirmed it enough times to rely on it sufficiently).

Things replaced which haven't fixed it: new intake vanoss, new oil pump, new distribution (well, I guess 'timing' is the proper word) chain kit, including the chain tensioner. My BMW independent garage insisted that the noise was due
to the timing chain which was off by a few cycles (as measured by an 'EKG' test before me paying for all of this). Changed their mind after replacement... Double checked that the distribution chain is now in proper order by EKG-ing intake vs exhaust cycles again.

How it appeared Beginning of winter/cold weather. Started the car, it warmed up a bit, started driving, changed gears not too aggressively at like 3000rpm, heard an intense noise from the engine. Could have gone for a slower start and maybe it wouldn't have happened. Initially sounded like wind was throwing stuff around the engine area, I literally thought there's strong wind around me before I realized it was the car. Ever since it's been like described below. It did stop for a bit after replacing the parts above but quickly came back.

How does it sound like You can hear it at idle >2000RPM, or when the car is in motion >2000RPM. It is worse, for the same level of RPM, if the RPM is in the process of increasing vs decreasing.
The best words I can use to describe are a ticking rattling. I'm not able to record it due to the other sounds around it. My mental picture is of some teeth somewhere that don't quite fall rightly into place into a cogwheel. I think that it sounds metallic, some of my friends think that it isn't. The dealer
also thinks it's not mechanical/metallic given that they've looked inside the engine. It seems to be fully in-sync with the normal engine noise operation. It ticks fully in sync with the engine RPM going up and it's more of a ticking than a rattling.

Other aspects checked by my local independent BMW shop Took out the engine oil bay to inspect crankshaft and cam followers (if this the name), all good. Exhaust vanoss. The noise is not related to AC/ventilation as it's present when these are off too.

Not checked injectors, but they were replaced on warranty, all of them, not that long ago (probably about 40k KM ago?)

I don't know what else to do, I'd appreciate some guidance.

Thank you in advance

[tx330e90]

The same thing was happening to my 330i. It's caused by frequent short drives where the engine is not able to reach operation temperature. A nice, long, 40 minute drive should resolve this issue

[kenaxcix]

I was told to try here to help diagnose.
I will include my original thread and a video of the noise.

Help N52 ticking/thumping on angle https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1590960