[Dhillon92]

Hey guys, I've tried to find out via searching but can't get a clear answer. So most of you seem to know which cylinder is misfiring, when I run map 5 and the boost goes to 16.5psi, on WOT my jb4 kicks me to map 4 with a cel, which then disappears, assuming its a misfire. After it has disappeared I can't see which cylinder was misfiring because it just kicks me to map 4 and clears it, what's the work around on this? It only happens sometimes but mostly at the wrong times LOL. Thanks!

Edit: I've changed my plugs less than 10k ago with Bosch ones, I'm pretty sure its a coil(s), so trying to isolate with which coil to start with.

[Gaijin909]

I have reduced my plug gap a fraction to 0.022" or 0.5588 odd mm.
Misfire gone away....

Misfire where happening to different cyls, at different times etc.
Running Stage 3, new NGK R Iridiums.
Coils, HPFP,LPFP, Injectors done 60k miles never been replaced.

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

It's likely your spark plugs.

Jeff, you really think that's the culprit?

I have the cold start misfire, too (no tune on car).

Car starts very quickly: amazingly quickly, actually. Sometimes starting on the first turnover even after sitting in the garage for a week.

Cold idles fine, usually (have gotten a stuttered cold idle twice) - but if I get in it and drive away before its had time to pull vaccum and close the exhaust flap, it misfires for the first quarter mile or so.

After it warms up and closes the exhaust, it's fine: no misfires, even when putting the hammer down.

I'll be changing all the plugs and coils as routine maintenance regardless, but was just curious as if you thought it really could be that simple.

[3000GT MR]

Originally Posted by terryd5150

Jeff, you really think that's the culprit?

I have the cold start misfire, too (no tune on car).

Car starts very quickly: amazingly quickly, actually. Sometimes starting on the first turnover even after sitting in the garage for a week.

Cold idles fine, usually (have gotten a stuttered cold idle twice) - but if I get in it and drive away before its had time to pull vaccum and close the exhaust flap, it misfires for the first quarter mile or so.

After it warms up and closes the exhaust, it's fine: no misfires, even when putting the hammer down.

I'll be changing all the plugs and coils as routine maintenance regardless, but was just curious as if you thought it really could be that simple.

MT or AT? I know on my MT it would cold start fine but low low load like barley above idle to light cruise it would buck really bad and during med loads it would misfire. Once the car was warm it was fine until WOT i would get actual misfire codes and dropped cylinders. I have only seen this on stock copper plugs, never with iridiums.

Before it starts misfiring at WOT it would progressively get worse at light cruise and idle.

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by 3000GT MR

MT or AT? I know on my MT it would cold start fine but low low load like barley above idle to light cruise it would buck really bad and during med loads it would misfire. Once the car was warm it was fine until WOT i would get actual misfire codes and dropped cylinders. I have only seen this on stock copper plugs, never with iridiums.

Before it starts misfiring at WOT it would progressively get worse at light cruise and idle.

This is on an AT xi model.

I just thought it was strange that it's only on cold idle; once it pulls vaccum, it's fine - even to WOT.

I attributed this to injector leak-down; I'll be changing all the plugs and coils due to mileage so I guess we'll see.

[3000GT MR]

Originally Posted by terryd5150

This is on an AT xi model.

I just thought it was strange that it's only on cold idle; once it pulls vaccum, it's fine - even to WOT.

I attributed this to injector leak-down; I'll be changing all the plugs and coils due to mileage so I guess we'll see.

When you do your plugs look at the porcelain around the electrode. If its black you most likely have a leaking injector in that cylinder. If its just dark and doesn't have soot on it then its usually a worn plug. Thats been my experience anyways.

[Beans562]

Originally Posted by GQ335i

Went to take my car out for the first time again today since it was nice out and immediately knew something was wrong. The car took a couple cranks to start up, had a very rough idle, and could definitely tell it was misfiring. Read the codes via the JB4 and told me the following:

29CD Misfirings, cylinder 1
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29CE Misfirings, cylinder 2
29CC Misfirings, several cylinders

Spark Plugs were just changed by the dealer about 5,000 miles ago, HPFP was replaced about 10,000 miles ago, and Injectors did not fall under the recall according to the dealer. Do you think the Spark Plugs would go bad that quickly? If I replace the Coilpacks would you suggest replacing all Spark Plugs as well? Even with the Spark Plugs being pretty new? Thanks!

My car just threw the exact codes. Anyone know what it is? I tried replacing the sparkplugs and coils. Codes still pop up, going to try bank 1 o2 sensors tmw.

[yawn]

I think I'm having misfires but not entirely certain. Feels like loss of traction but the traction control light doesn't come on. Looks alot like this:

And there are no codes thrown either. Recently had carbon cleaned from intake valves, and plugs are about 10,000kms. Tends to happen in high gear and going WOT. When there is gradual acceleration there is no issue. I have a pretty smooth idle too, no hiccups. Any ideas?

Also, checked my plugs the other day and if I bring up plug 1 and 2 right up to my nose, I can smell some fuel. Wondering if my injectors are leaking. However, I did some logs and found that my lambda 1 and 2 (AFR) were both a constant 235.1 upon deceleration which leads me to believe that the injectors are NOT leaking. If there was a leak, these figures would fluctuate and deviate, and not be identical. However, I'm also wondering how reliable the logging data is in terms of being able to detect a leaky injector. Any help would be appreciated.

[Game]

So have most guys here switched to Delphi coils and NGK plugs?

[Jnat]

I'm experiencing warm start long crank and rough idle afterwards with no codes? I'm thinking it's an injector but the plugs aren't showing me that at this juncture?

[mg4734]

Got a misfire merging onto the highway (at WOT) the other day. Only codes I got were misfire cyl. 5 and fuel pump plausibility. I know the fuel pump code doesn't always mean something is wrong, but I've never had it appear before. Thoughts? Plugs are 20K old so they may be due, though I was leaning towards coils (at 55k miles). Hoping its not a fuel pump...

[atschmale]

I've been having low/no boost for a few weeks now. Checked vacuum lines and intercooler connections, and everything seemed fine. Took the car in today (literally sitting in the dealership now) because the car had a nasty misfire episode in multiple cyls yesterday and again this morning. They ran a test and said there is no boost leak, the problem is 3 bad coil which is causing both the misfire issue and the low boost problem. I've never heard of bad coils causing boost issues. Can anyone weigh in on this?

Edit: I'll add I've never had a 30FF code

[achu]

hi from the UK, really need some help!

2007 E93 335i on 77k with JB4

i'm having a misfire issue too but it's a strange one... i really don't want to make a long ass post as i know they're annoying to read!

basically if i put my foot down more than about 50%, i get a loss in power (almost like the traction control kicked in) and then a misfire... the engine management light doesn't come up though... nor does the limp mode message...

after about 20 seconds of misfiring at idle, the car goes back to normal... and drives like normal if i drive gently... i can also get the misfire to go if i just restart it...

also when driving a bit rapidly (but not putting my foot down) i can feel tiny moments of loss of power, almost like the car is hesitant... it's so slight a passenger probably won't feel it but i can... and it happens around once or twice every 15mins...

the crank is snappy and sweet, idle is very steady and revving in neutral is perfect all the way to redline... i have a JB4 installed (i was on map 5) but this happens at map 0... i've replaced my coil packs (they were the originals) and spark plugs (might as well) but no joy...

when i checked the codes the first time, i had:
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29D0 Misfirings, cylinder 4
29CC misfire, multiple cylinder

but I think these may have been stored from before... I cleared them and did a WOT pull to get the problem to happen and read the codes immediately after:
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off

I'm thinking it's the LPFP but I don't want to guess as I don't have the time and this car is my daily......

any help would be greatly appreciated!

(some extra info: the car had a few hiccups over the last few months under WOT - the car would lose power, EML would come on and then go in a minute... this happened about 3 times in 4 months... also every now and then, if rev up slowly but all the way to 4k or so in gear 2 (going up a hill or something), the limp mode light comes up and then goes in 5mins or so)

[achu]

Originally Posted by achu

hi from the UK, really need some help!

2007 E93 335i on 77k with JB4

i'm having a misfire issue too but it's a strange one... i really don't want to make a long ass post as i know they're annoying to read!

basically if i put my foot down more than about 50%, i get a loss in power (almost like the traction control kicked in) and then a misfire... the engine management light doesn't come up though... nor does the limp mode message...

after about 20 seconds of misfiring at idle, the car goes back to normal... and drives like normal if i drive gently... i can also get the misfire to go if i just restart it...

also when driving a bit rapidly (but not putting my foot down) i can feel tiny moments of loss of power, almost like the car is hesitant... it's so slight a passenger probably won't feel it but i can... and it happens around once or twice every 15mins...

the crank is snappy and sweet, idle is very steady and revving in neutral is perfect all the way to redline... i have a JB4 installed (i was on map 5) but this happens at map 0... i've replaced my coil packs (they were the originals) and spark plugs (might as well) but no joy...

when i checked the codes the first time, i had:
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29D0 Misfirings, cylinder 4
29CC misfire, multiple cylinder

but I think these may have been stored from before... I cleared them and did a WOT pull to get the problem to happen and read the codes immediately after:
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off

I'm thinking it's the LPFP but I don't want to guess as I don't have the time and this car is my daily......

any help would be greatly appreciated!

(some extra info: the car had a few hiccups over the last few months under WOT - the car would lose power, EML would come on and then go in a minute... this happened about 3 times in 4 months... also every now and then, if rev up slowly but all the way to 4k or so in gear 2 (going up a hill or something), the limp mode light comes up and then goes in 5mins or so)

if anybody has similar issues - it was my HPFP (car also got a walnut blast and new pressure converters as it was leaking boost)...

my crank was as quick as usual so i didn't think it would be the HPFP but goes to show that the long crank isnt always a symptom!

[aus]

I only have an old Turbo Tuner on my 2007 335 and was on the throttle part way to pass (no close to flat), and the engine stuttered and then was rough and had reduced for about 15 miles. "Check engine soon" light went on but no the half engine light.
I then exited the freeway and turned right and then everything was fine. Engine was smooth again and I had power again. I read the codes via Carly app and it showes:

Misfire detection cylinder 1 in 1 Firing order 29CD
Misfire Cyl 6 29D2
Misfire detection erro summation 29CC

It seems ok now. I've had some of the injectors replaced under the recall, but not all.
I'm about the bring the car in to CarMax to sell and don't want to put much back into the car at this point. I did notice some stuttering when I got on the gas a few times the last few days.
I've had the walnut blasting at 60,000 miles and have 77,800 on it now.
Any insight is much appreciated.

.

[bpdef29]

Originally Posted by achu

if anybody has similar issues - it was my HPFP (car also got a walnut blast and new pressure converters as it was leaking boost)...

my crank was as quick as usual so i didn't think it would be the HPFP but goes to show that the long crank isnt always a symptom!

I'm getting the same thing. Feels like traction control kicks and shakes for 30 sec when I get on it and then it goes away. No codes besides misfire.

Did you have to replicate it in its stock form at the dealer/have HPFP codes or did you just show up and tell them what had been happening and they replaced it?

I also happen to have a tiny boost leak as well and I fixed just about everything possible...did the dealer find and replace those as well?

[achu]

Originally Posted by bpdef29

I'm getting the same thing. Feels like traction control kicks and shakes for 30 sec when I get on it and then it goes away. No codes besides misfire.

Did you have to replicate it in its stock form at the dealer/have HPFP codes or did you just show up and tell them what had been happening and they replaced it?

I also happen to have a tiny boost leak as well and I fixed just about everything possible...did the dealer find and replace those as well?

we in the UK are not as lucky as you guys in the US, I had to pay an independent specialist to do the repairs so it didn't matter that the car was modified...

the specialists found more codes than I did... they could monitor the fuel inputs and see the flucuations (which in my case were crazy, so they knew straight it was the HPFP)... they also got codes of boost leak which i never found...

i would revert your car back to stock and just let the dealers handle it... if it's your HPFP you're okay, if it's not just pay them for diagnosis and let an indy sort it for you (unless you're covered by warranty but I'm guessing you're not as you've posted here lol)....

[bimmer_in_cm]

Ive read this post from top to bottom trying to figure out what my mystery misfire is At this point ill just add to it since i have yet to figure out my problem. I have a misfire in cyl #3 for about a month now, here is a list of things ive already did and what has been replaced on car.

1) replaced all injectors with index 10
2) replaced all coils & plugs
3) walnut shelled the intake valves
4) New turbos at 75k under recall
5) hpfp done under recall

I can pull the spark plug at any given time on cyl #3 and the plug will be wet and black. I can clean the plug and run the car and it will run great till it heats up then it goes back into limp mode with misfire again?

Sorry my first post had to be so positive lol

Car is currently @ Socal Robs being diagnosed...fingers crossed i dont have to part this car out and be at a total loss...FML!

[bpdef29]

Originally Posted by achu

we in the UK are not as lucky as you guys in the US, I had to pay an independent specialist to do the repairs so it didn't matter that the car was modified...

the specialists found more codes than I did... they could monitor the fuel inputs and see the flucuations (which in my case were crazy, so they knew straight it was the HPFP)... they also got codes of boost leak which i never found...

i would revert your car back to stock and just let the dealers handle it... if it's your HPFP you're okay, if it's not just pay them for diagnosis and let an indy sort it for you (unless you're covered by warranty but I'm guessing you're not as you've posted here lol)....

Thanks for the response; I'll let you know how it goes....thank god I just ordered my downpipes and they aren't on the car yet. Taking them off for a diagnosis would have been a nightmare

[TacoCodeRed]

Ive been through a lot with this car in the past 2 years. Nothing really major but still cannot get it to run a tune without problems. I nixed the Procede after a year of having it (ended up being a hardware problem) now I have a G5 JB4 which throws misfires all the time. I can't get on the car without one (or multiple). Driving normally and at idle there are zero problems.

So far in the past 6 months I've had this done:
New index 12 injectors
New NGK 6043 plugs gapped to 0.022
New HPFP (low was done shortly before I got the car)
Carbon blasting
and finally new Delphi GN10328 coils

After putting in the coils I was hoping for it to go away but it did not. It did perform a bit better, but at the top of 2-3 and 3-4 pulls it would kick out another misfire.

The most recent were a cyl 1 and cyl 2 misfire (1 first then both) and I just put the new coils in today.

Attached are two of the runs I did today, my expertise stops at the parts, any help here would be appreciated. I would like my car to actually be able to walk someone instead of sitting down on the highway and making me look like an idiot.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by TacoCodeRed

Ive been through a lot with this car in the past 2 years. Nothing really major but still cannot get it to run a tune without problems. I nixed the Procede after a year of having it (ended up being a hardware problem) now I have a G5 JB4 which throws misfires all the time. I can't get on the car without one (or multiple). Driving normally and at idle there are zero problems.

So far in the past 6 months I've had this done:
New index 12 injectors
New NGK 6043 plugs gapped to 0.022
New HPFP (low was done shortly before I got the car)
Carbon blasting
and finally new Delphi GN10328 coils

After putting in the coils I was hoping for it to go away but it did not. It did perform a bit better, but at the top of 2-3 and 3-4 pulls it would kick out another misfire.

The most recent were a cyl 1 and cyl 2 misfire (1 first then both) and I just put the new coils in today.

Attached are two of the runs I did today, my expertise stops at the parts, any help here would be appreciated. I would like my car to actually be able to walk someone instead of sitting down on the highway and making me look like an idiot.

NGK 6043? This is the first time I'm hearing of people using that specific part number. Unless you know with a 100% certainty they are ok that may be the issue.

The go-to was 5992 which the Superseding Part Number is NGK 95770 ILZKBR7B8DG

I personally run Bosch OEM.

Any other codes?
Have you tried cleaning the vanos solenoids and swapping them?

[TacoCodeRed]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

NGK 6043? This is the first time I'm hearing of people using that specific part number. Unless you know with a 100% certainty they are ok that may be the issue.

The go-to was 5992 which the Superseding Part Number is NGK 95770 ILZKBR7B8DG

I personally run Bosch OEM.

Any other codes?
Have you tried cleaning the vanos solenoids and swapping them?

I used that after doing about a days worth of research on here.
My initial thought after getting all kinds of random misfires and they never followed the coil swap was the plugs.

Vanos solenoids were also replaced shortly before I bought the car.
Almost everything was including the turbos.
My best friend is also a BMW mechanic so most things he catches but I hate trying to troubleshoot with him when he is outside of work.

All the codes are misfire related. I just swapped in the new coils today and only got those two after about 6-8 runs