[cookie.MONSTER]

I have an Injen DCi and attempted to install a VRSF CP and Tail bov that i purhcased. Is there any way taht can fit? I had to re install my stock CP

[ferocity02]

Originally Posted by cookie.MONSTER

I have an Injen DCi and attempted to install a VRSF CP and Tail bov that i purhcased. Is there any way taht can fit? I had to re install my stock CP

Mine "fit", but the bolt on top of the tial smashes the filter and pushes the filter into the hood. So I went with a long ER CP since it's tial is in a better location for the Injen intake. It also fits much better with the lower chargepipe, whereas the vrsf CP was about 1" too short and I really had to pull things around to get it to bolt up.

[Team503]

Will the VRSF chargepipe with the Tial BOV clear the BMS DCI without a problem?

[Tiago@VRSF]

It sure will.

[LI_Goalie]

I am looking to buy a VRSF Charge Pipe and I noticed that unlike lots of other brands there is no differentiation between pre-09 and 09+ n54 engines. Is there no difference for the VRSF CP for whatever reason?

I have heard some stories of the lower elbow being too short. Have all of these issues been worked out? I'd hate to take my car apart only to find out the CP isn't going to fit.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by LI_Goalie

I am looking to buy a VRSF Charge Pipe and I noticed that unlike lots of other brands there is no differentiation between pre-09 and 09+ n54 engines. Is there no difference for the VRSF CP for whatever reason?

I have heard some stories of the lower elbow being too short. Have all of these issues been worked out? I'd hate to take my car apart only to find out the CP isn't going to fit.

The VRSF is a long version and therefore it fits all years, 2007-2010.

[Tiago@VRSF]

And we have extended the length of the elbow on all our new chargepipes

[LI_Goalie]

Great! Thanks.

[kingfork]

Finished the install of this chargepipe / Tial bov combo.

Few observations...

1. I don't like that the surface of the flange that connects to the bov is coated. This surface should have been masked prior to coating.

2. The tapped holes for the ATS were not plugged prior to coating, the threads needed to be chased with a tap prior to installation.

3. The tapped holes for the ATS are fine threaded. This is bad practice for aluminum and these holes should be tapped for coarse threaded fasteners.

4. The provided fasteners for the ATS are black oxide. These fasteners should be stainless steel or at the very least zinc plated.

5. Kit doesn't include all necessary vacuum hose to complete the job.

6. The charge pipe omits the mounting tab.

7. The orientation of the bov flange is poorly placed. The bov flange encroaches on the intake inlet hose (see pics). If the flange were to be rotated a few degrees towards the fender it would completely clear the inlet hose.

8. The included zip-ties are white, they should be black.

9. The welds on the charge pipe are messy.

10. The plastic caps, for the diverter tube connections, are cheap and the clamps that secure the caps are one size too large.


Despite the downsides that I listed the assembly does function and is an okay value. I think you get what you pay for.

I most likely will upgrade to a unit that is of higher quality.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by kingfork

Finished the install of this chargepipe / Tial bov combo.

Few observations...

1. I don't like that the surface of the flange that connects to the bov is coated. This surface should have been masked prior to coating.

2. The tapped holes for the ATS were not plugged prior to coating, the threads needed to be chased with a tap prior to installation.

3. The tapped holes for the ATS are fine threaded. This is bad practice for aluminum and these holes should be tapped for coarse threaded fasteners.

4. The provided fasteners for the ATS are black oxide. These fasteners should be stainless steel or at the very least zinc plated.

5. Kit doesn't include all necessary vacuum hose to complete the job.

6. The charge pipe omits the mounting tab.

7. The orientation of the bov flange is poorly placed. The bov flange encroaches on the intake inlet hose (see pics). If the flange were to be rotated a few degrees towards the fender it would completely clear the inlet hose.

8. The included zip-ties are white, they should be black.

9. The welds on the charge pipe are messy.

10. The plastic caps, for the diverter tube connections, are cheap and the clamps that secure the caps are one size too large.


Despite the downsides that I listed the assembly does function and is an okay value. I think you get what you pay for.

I most likely will upgrade to a unit that is of higher quality.[/IMG]

I appreciate you taking the time to express your thoughts. While most of your points are subjective I'll absolutely agree about the BOV flange position and the masked threads. Our next batch is going to have a more favorably positioned flange and they are going to mask off the threads. Neither of these hinder the performance or function of the product but they will ensure that we can offer the best product available.

We've sold a few hundred of these without the mounting tab and have a few 700whp+ cars running our chargepipe without the tab. It's been proven that it isn't necessary. We also provide pictures of our product in order to eliminate any confusion and we've never claimed to offer a chargepipe with the mounting tab.

The color of the zip ties, thread pitch, fastener material, "quality" of the plastic covers are absolutely subjective and also won't affect performance but we appreciate the feedback.

[kingfork]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

I appreciate you taking the time to express your thoughts. While most of your points are subjective I'll absolutely agree about the BOV flange position and the masked threads. Our next batch is going to have a more favorably positioned flange and they are going to mask off the threads. Neither of these hinder the performance or function of the product but they will ensure that we can offer the best product available.

We've sold a few hundred of these without the mounting tab and have a few 700whp+ cars running our chargepipe without the tab. It's been proven that it isn't necessary. We also provide pictures of our product in order to eliminate any confusion and we've never claimed to offer a chargepipe with the mounting tab.

The color of the zip ties, thread pitch, fastener material, "quality" of the plastic covers are absolutely subjective and also won't affect performance but we appreciate the feedback.

The color of the zip-ties is a minor detail. It would be nice if you would change the color to black as this would be a better match from an asthetic perspective.

Thread pitch... Not really a subjective point. Lower strength, softer alloys like aluminum are more prone to thread stripping when fine pitched threads are utilized. This is a fact and why it's poor practice to tap aluminum with fine threads.

With regards to the fasteners, black oxide is a poor choice as it tends to rust. Do you see any other fasteners under the hood from the factory that are black oxide? The cost of providing your customers with a fastener that won't tend to rust should be negledable. Why wouldn't you want to provide fastenets that resist rusting? Are the pennies that you save really worth it?

I noticed that you didn't address my points about weld quality and the oring surface finish.

Do you know that a textured, powder coated finish for a surface that is meant for an oring seal is extremely problematic and can cause leaks? Did you know that there are standards for the finish of sealing surfaces? Have you ever in your life seen the factory texturize an oring surface? You took the easy way out by not masking this surface prior to powder coating and again are doing your customers a disservice.

weld quality... Not only does an ugly weld effect the appearance of your product but it can also effect the structural integrity of the part. Again there are standards when it comes to welding and I can assure you that you wouldn't be able to match up your welds to any of these standards.

I am glad to hear that you are addressing the issues concerning the orientation of the bov mount as well as pluging the threaded holes. I would also highly recommend that you reconsider my other recommendations, especially the ones concerning o-ring surfaces and welding standards.

[sandiegobmw1]

Originally Posted by Acekid187

I was just wondering who all is rocking the VRSF chargepipe. Im thinking about copping one this weekend. I have there downpipes and intercooler and both those are great.

I would vrsf is a very good brand

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by kingfork

Finished the install of this chargepipe / Tial bov combo.

Few observations...

1. I don't like that the surface of the flange that connects to the bov is coated. This surface should have been masked prior to coating.

2. The tapped holes for the ATS were not plugged prior to coating, the threads needed to be chased with a tap prior to installation.

3. The tapped holes for the ATS are fine threaded. This is bad practice for aluminum and these holes should be tapped for coarse threaded fasteners.

4. The provided fasteners for the ATS are black oxide. These fasteners should be stainless steel or at the very least zinc plated.

5. Kit doesn't include all necessary vacuum hose to complete the job.

6. The charge pipe omits the mounting tab.

7. The orientation of the bov flange is poorly placed. The bov flange encroaches on the intake inlet hose (see pics). If the flange were to be rotated a few degrees towards the fender it would completely clear the inlet hose.

8. The included zip-ties are white, they should be black.

9. The welds on the charge pipe are messy.

10. The plastic caps, for the diverter tube connections, are cheap and the clamps that secure the caps are one size too large.


Despite the downsides that I listed the assembly does function and is an okay value. I think you get what you pay for.

I most likely will upgrade to a unit that is of higher quality.

I got their cp last week or so. Went back to stock and returning the cp, waiting on rma from Tiago.

I had issues with 2,3,4, 6 and another one was the tmap sensor hole. My tmap sensor w oring would not go in, the oring was being squeezed out. Their hole size was 12mm, while stock was 13. Had to run to advance auto in yhe middle of the install to try and find a smaller oring.

#2...had already installed the cp, when i realized the screws wont thread in. Had to pull the cp out, and retap the holes (with the screws).

#6, dont like it. Entire load resting on the c clip. I can move the cp w my hand.

Didnt have any zip ties, mine is dv valve set up.

As you can tell frustrating and time consuming experience. Shipping back!

[Tsujen]

Might have been covered or in the description just cannot find it.

I don't want to upgrade my bov, can this be used with the stock one? I'm ordering JB4 soon and want to upgrade the CP so I don't have problems with the stock one blowing.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by Tsujen

Might have been covered or in the description just cannot find it.

I don't want to upgrade my bov, can this be used with the stock one? I'm ordering JB4 soon and want to upgrade the CP so I don't have problems with the stock one blowing.

You can use this with the OEM DV setup, just select the OEM DV option.

[Team503]

Received my CP/Tial BOV combo a few weeks ago, along with my 7" FMIC. Ordered directly from Tiago. Prices were excellent, shipping was slightly faster than expected. FMIC was packed with spray foam very nicely. CP/BOV in a rectangular box with foam peanuts - didn't love it, but it kept everything protected so good enough.

First complaint - zero instructions were included. There wasn't even a parts list. This eventually cost me about $100, though it's only sorta VRSF's fault and mostly mine. Given that this isn't a direct bolt-in replacement, this seems like something that should be included.

Second complaint - no parts list! How do I know that everything that's supposed to be in the kit was shipped to me prior to installation? In my case, it seems to have been (and maybe extra), but I wasn't able to check prior to beginning my install.

I'm a shadetree mechanic - I paid to have my downpipe put in (mostly for lack of lift), but I did my own DCI and change my own coils and plugs. My mechanical experience is limited to that kind of thing and taking apart and rebuilding my CBR600F4i. I am sure that an experienced mechanic would have avoided my pitfalls.

I had not planned on this installation - while doing a bit of hooning on a business trip to Houston this week, I shattered the stock CP. I thought I might be able to stick the factory pipe back on and just run a valet map, but the end of the stock plastic was cracked and missing bits, so nope.

So it was a late night install and I was tired, working in an unfamiliar garage (a friend's apartment), and neither of us had ever done this before.

Using the posted DYI, we managed to remove the factory bits and install the chargepipe with BOV. Here's the points I wish someone had told me ahead of time:

• Mount the BOV and tighten the clamp before attempting to install the chargepipe. It may be possible, but the two of us weren't able to get it on, the fit is just too tight.
• Make sure the BOV C-Clamp faces the drivers side of the car, as in towards the closest fender and away from the engine. It won't fit otherwise.
• Fitment is tight, especially by the front intake hose, so don't be afraid to wiggle and push and use some force.
• It made life a LOT easier for us to unbolt the power steering reservoir (leaving the hoses connected) so we could shift it and the power steering hoses and make clearance to put in the CP/BOV.
• When swapping the TMAP sensor to the chargepipe, do not use the factory screws! Make sure to use the included black hex bolts instead!

That last one caused me to break off both factory screws into the CP. This is partly my fault; it was dark, I didn't think to check the depth of the screw holes and I overtorqued the screw causing it to snap. However, it's partly VRSF's fault too - these are easy beginner mistakes that could have been avoided with a few pages of instructions.

I'm super-happy with Tiago. I'm happy with the product. I'm pissed about the lack of instructions, because I'm going to have to take the pipe in and have the screws drilled out, the holes threaded, and then mount a new TMAP sensor. The new sensor would've been necessary anyway (the clips tore and the pins bent when the stock pipe blew), but the effort of pulling the pipe, having a down car, and the cost of having someone do that for me were wholly unnecessary, and could have been avoided with even just a single piece of paper saying "WARNING: MAKE SURE TO USE THE REPLACEMENT BOLTS FOR TMAP SENSOR".

I don't blame VRSF, but I can tell you that I won't buy anything from them in the future that isn't a direct bolt-in replacement from them unless I plan to have a professional install it for me.

[Fundguy1]

Love it.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by Team503

Received my CP/Tial BOV combo a few weeks ago, along with my 7" FMIC. Ordered directly from Tiago. Prices were excellent, shipping was slightly faster than expected. FMIC was packed with spray foam very nicely. CP/BOV in a rectangular box with foam peanuts - didn't love it, but it kept everything protected so good enough.

First complaint - zero instructions were included. There wasn't even a parts list. This eventually cost me about $100, though it's only sorta VRSF's fault and mostly mine. Given that this isn't a direct bolt-in replacement, this seems like something that should be included.

Second complaint - no parts list! How do I know that everything that's supposed to be in the kit was shipped to me prior to installation? In my case, it seems to have been (and maybe extra), but I wasn't able to check prior to beginning my install.

I'm a shadetree mechanic - I paid to have my downpipe put in (mostly for lack of lift), but I did my own DCI and change my own coils and plugs. My mechanical experience is limited to that kind of thing and taking apart and rebuilding my CBR600F4i. I am sure that an experienced mechanic would have avoided my pitfalls.

I had not planned on this installation - while doing a bit of hooning on a business trip to Houston this week, I shattered the stock CP. I thought I might be able to stick the factory pipe back on and just run a valet map, but the end of the stock plastic was cracked and missing bits, so nope.

So it was a late night install and I was tired, working in an unfamiliar garage (a friend's apartment), and neither of us had ever done this before.

Using the posted DYI, we managed to remove the factory bits and install the chargepipe with BOV. Here's the points I wish someone had told me ahead of time:

• Mount the BOV and tighten the clamp before attempting to install the chargepipe. It may be possible, but the two of us weren't able to get it on, the fit is just too tight.
• Make sure the BOV C-Clamp faces the drivers side of the car, as in towards the closest fender and away from the engine. It won't fit otherwise.
• Fitment is tight, especially by the front intake hose, so don't be afraid to wiggle and push and use some force.
• It made life a LOT easier for us to unbolt the power steering reservoir (leaving the hoses connected) so we could shift it and the power steering hoses and make clearance to put in the CP/BOV.
• When swapping the TMAP sensor to the chargepipe, do not use the factory screws! Make sure to use the included black hex bolts instead!

That last one caused me to break off both factory screws into the CP. This is partly my fault; it was dark, I didn't think to check the depth of the screw holes and I overtorqued the screw causing it to snap. However, it's partly VRSF's fault too - these are easy beginner mistakes that could have been avoided with a few pages of instructions.

I'm super-happy with Tiago. I'm happy with the product. I'm pissed about the lack of instructions, because I'm going to have to take the pipe in and have the screws drilled out, the holes threaded, and then mount a new TMAP sensor. The new sensor would've been necessary anyway (the clips tore and the pins bent when the stock pipe blew), but the effort of pulling the pipe, having a down car, and the cost of having someone do that for me were wholly unnecessary, and could have been avoided with even just a single piece of paper saying "WARNING: MAKE SURE TO USE THE REPLACEMENT BOLTS FOR TMAP SENSOR".

I don't blame VRSF, but I can tell you that I won't buy anything from them in the future that isn't a direct bolt-in replacement from them unless I plan to have a professional install it for me.

There's a few write ups available directly on the forums, youtube and other places on the internet which is why we don't include them. If anyone ever needs instructions you can feel free to contact me directly and I'll be more than happy to direct you to a few DIY's.

This is in fact a factory replacement part and we include everything needed to remove the OEM unit and replace it with ours.

[Holshot]

[QUOTE=kingfork;17397144]Finished the install of this chargepipe / Tial bov combo.

Few observations...

1. I don't like that the surface of the flange that connects to the bov is coated. This surface should have been masked prior to coating.

I had the same issue, I had to take a razor blade and pain stakingly remove all the thick wrinkle coating to have the BOV seat properly which was a real PIA.

2. The tapped holes for the ATS were not plugged prior to coating, the threads needed to be chased with a tap prior to installation.

Same issue again, the holes were full of powder coating needing to be chased first

3. The tapped holes for the ATS are fine threaded. This is bad practice for aluminum and these holes should be tapped for coarse threaded fasteners.

I agree

4. The provided fasteners for the ATS are black oxide. These fasteners should be stainless steel or at the very least zinc plated.

Again, I agree

5. Kit doesn't include all necessary vacuum hose to complete the job.

Mine did

6. The charge pipe omits the mounting tab.

It would be nice but in the end I don't see it being crucial

7. The orientation of the bov flange is poorly placed. The bov flange encroaches on the intake inlet hose (see pics). If the flange were to be rotated a few degrees towards the fender it would completely clear the inlet hose.

This was my biggest issue! The BOV placement is bad. Having read this thread and review I assumed it had been taken care of but I was wrong. It was a nightmare getting the factory air box back on while trying to wrestle the BOV out of the way. At this point there isn't much movement as it is already attached at the TB. Mine happened to have so much interference it pushed on the round intake accordion to the point it was oval in shape rather than round. Then take into account aesthetically having the BOV not sitting at the center it sits cock eyed towards the motor when there is a ton of room towards the powering steering pump resorvior.

8. The included zip-ties are white, they should be black.

Personal opinion, but again I agree and switched mine out

9. The welds on the charge pipe are messy.

mine were ok

10. The plastic caps, for the diverter tube connections, are cheap and the clamps that secure the caps are one size too large.

Agree, hard plastic instead of rubber that would easier to remove in the future if need be and possibly crack more easily with all that heat under the hood. I had to cut down quite a bite of the excess hose clamp which looked horrible

Despite the downsides that I listed the assembly does function and is an okay value. I think you get what you pay for.

Agreed

I most likely will upgrade to a unit that is of higher quality.

Same here as I originally was waiting for the CP-E to be available and the reason I went with VRSF which was modeled after theirs. Mine was never a choice of money as I place quality, design over price. I don't like the ER design or others that are similar that has that abrupt/hard "step" from going 2.5 to 3". I'm sure that's all in my head as I'm sure it's not a major performance issue/difference but rather again an esthetic issue on my part. I had been waiting for CP-E to have another run and they are making one without the Meth bung but kept stringing me along so not being able to wait any longer and wanting to take advantage of my pro tuning and higher boost I pulled the trigger on the CP and the 7" FMIC. As soon as CP-E (local to me)makes my CP without the meth bung and their badge I'll be swapping out both as I prefer things to match when they can and performance isn't affected

[Tiago@VRSF]

The next batch of CP's will have the wrinkle black fixed on all the mating surfaces. That was an oversight when switching finishes although we've pressure tested a few units and have never had any leaks due to the finish. The BOV location isn't ideal for the OEM intake but most of our customers are utilizing a less restirctive aftermarket intake.

[Shankopotomus]

I purchased my vrsf cp tial bov combo and it is perfect for me. Make sure when installing you do get the cp fully seated on throttle body or it will be a bit sloppy. I did not have powder in my holes like others have stated, my welds looked great. I did however have to really stretch the coupler from cp to IC pipe, but Tiago gladly sent me a longer hose that completely fixed the problem FREE OF CHARGE...instead of putting it on me to buy a new coupler, he provided me with one that arrived in 2 days. Did I need a longer one to drive my car? No, but I was experiencing a boost leak because the coupler originally provided pulled on the ic pipe and the newer longer coupler resolved the issue. A+ to Tiago...excellent shipping, quality, and customer service. After all, this is just a pipe, it holds boost, praise Tiago for not robbing you for just a dang pipe...I will continue to go to VRSF for the rest of my mods, he's a great guy to deal with.

[mchoy]

Wondering if you guys can help with the MAP install as it appears that I'm having the same issue with the threading/screws. I'm struggling to get these screws to go in easily and I don't want to strip the holes. Any recommendations?

Also, just want to make sure of this but are the two small screws with washers in the DV caps packaging used for the MAP install?