[BKBMW335I]

Originally Posted by Mannix

Update:

The catless DP and catsim were installed on 2 March 2016.

The only code that came up since then happened once—when I was at the drag strip on 5 March 2016. I can't remember what the code was, but I'm pretty sure is started with a "2" and ended with a "15". 2C15? Whatever it was, I looked it up and it was related to the O2 sensor. I cleared it, and it never came back.

I went to the dyno on 9 March 2016 and made three pulls. No codes.

And since then, I have been driving the car normally. No codes.

What were your numbers TQ/HP??

[Cure12]

Hey guys I installed my sim today and got pO138 - Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2...any ideas? I'm also running a protune if that helps...

[Jairomvp]

Originally Posted by Cure12

Hey guys I installed my sim today and got pO138 - Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2...any ideas? I'm also running a protune if that helps...

me and my friend are always getting codes, nothing mayor, we are about to shut off the unit and only use it to pass inspection

[houtan]

Can you elaborate? How are you going to pass if you are getting codes?

[Boosted2000Si]

If cobb stage 2+ shuts the light off then why can I use the stage 2 map to modify and have the light stay off?

Its like they do not give you the option to turn the light off if you tune yourself.

[Joey911]

Guys please chime in here:

For those of you who has a O2 simulator, or catted spacer, does your AFR and Fuel trim stay still during idling (14.7) and cruising?

[dieselfan12]

Originally Posted by Boosted2000Si

If cobb stage 2+ shuts the light off then why can I use the stage 2 map to modify and have the light stay off?

Its like they do not give you the option to turn the light off if you tune yourself.

You can with ATR:
Load the calibration file
Click on Edit -> Advanced Parameters
Uncheck the P3106 code

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by jwalker87

I have emailed and am working with A r e a 7 4. I'm in the middle of packing and moving to PA so further investigation will have to wait several days, but so far I have cat monitor ready and PENDING 2D15 and 2CED codes after 2 days of driving.

I just passed inspection with both of these codes active. All, there is but one real fix, listed above. If the standoff devices really worked people would have looked no further.

[Boosted2000Si]

Originally Posted by dieselfan12

You can with ATR:
Load the calibration file
Click on Edit -> Advanced Parameters
Uncheck the P3106 code

Oh my goodness, thank you soooooo much!!

Cant wait to change it lol.

[Mannix]

Originally Posted by BKBMW335I

What were your numbers TQ/HP??

[kevBquick]

Originally Posted by Joey911

Guys please chime in here:

For those of you who has a O2 simulator, or catted spacer, does your AFR and Fuel trim stay still during idling (14.7) and cruising?

what would the catsim have to do with your AFR at all?

the only code i get is from me running too much e85 and getting a lean code till i fatten my mixture up.

otherwise cat codes are not something i see and tested it for 6 months prior to you guys getting one. so i'm not sure whats going on.

[No Style 135is]

Does this really fix the CEL?
Or just pass the emission?

[EB89]

Hey, how long does it usually take for the CEL to appear on yur dash?

I removed my JB4 a few weeks ago but havnt have any dash errors from my catless downpipe?

[sd306]

Hello,

I just installed this on my n55: catsim
I'll post back in a few days to report on how it's working, offroad.

I took many pictures and will make a how-to using the o2 sensor side wires versus the engine harness so worst case scenario you only have to replace/repair the o2 sensor wires.

[Jairomvp]

Originally Posted by houtan

Can you elaborate? How are you going to pass if you are getting codes?

so my inspection is do now, i just checked yesterday and i got
3106 - ******* DP installed

i deleted and now im going to drive the car 100 or more miles to see what happens

[houtan]

Originally Posted by sd306

Hello,

I just installed this on my n55: catsim
I'll post back in a few days to report on how it's working, offroad.

I took many pictures and will make a how-to using the o2 sensor side wires versus the engine harness so worst case scenario you only have to replace/repair the o2 sensor wires.

Nice. This is how I would install one.

[sd306]

Originally Posted by sd306

Hello,

I just installed this on my n55: catsim
I'll post back in a few days to report on how it's working, offroad.

I took many pictures and will make a how-to using the o2 sensor side wires versus the engine harness so worst case scenario you only have to replace/repair the o2 sensor wires.

o2 catsim DIY install e-series n55:

This guide is for modifying the o2 sensor side versus the engine harness - better idea IMHO. (Steps 1-5 can use kevBquick's DIY for the o2 catsim install, but be sure to cover your intake with tape and DISCONNECT your battery)

Before beginning if you have Cobb uninstall it completely. If you have jb4 put it in map 0. Make sure only 93/91 is in the tank if you were running e85.

1. Purchase this o2 catsim, this OBDII Scan Tool, and these Positaps (the catsim is to simulate a good o2 sensor reading and the OBDII Scan Tool is to check if it is working, you can buy this cheaper Scan Tool, but I prefer the first as it shows everything on one screen.)

2. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!

3. Unplug the MAF sensor, remove the intake, remove the engine cover, and cover the open intake with tape to ensure nothing falls into your engine. I used duct tape.


4. Remove the cowl, cabin filter, associated parts, and part of the passenger side strut bar (bolt closest to the front of the car - e14 torx), then bend the bar upwards (or remove the other bolt if you are not lazy.)

5. Pull all wiring out of the second engine cover and pull out engine cover to expose o2 connectors. We will be working with the o2 sensor connector that is closest to the engine firewall (grey sheath.)

Photo Credit: kevBquick

6. Pull the o2 connector out and move the sheath back (so if we need to reverse it ever the sheath can hide the modifications.)


7. Place a positap on the wire 4 (white bottom wire.)

Use the above image for future reference to wires.

8. Connect the catsim RED wire to wire 4 via the positap. (I stripped the wire on the catsim before placing into positap - not shown)


9. Connect the positap to wire 2 (grey wire) and connect the catsim BLACK wire via the positap. (I stripped the wire on the catsim before placing into positap - not shown)


10. Clip wire 1 (black wire)


11. Connect a positap to the left cut part of wire 1 (black wire and place it in the positap where the uninsulated part is not sticking out - keep it recessed a bit) and connect the catsim WHITE wire via the positap. (I stripped the wire on the catsim before placing into positap - not shown)


12. Connect a positap to the right cut part of wire 1 (black wire and place it in the positap where the uninsulated part is not sticking out - keep it recessed a bit) and connect the catsim YELLOW wire via the positap. (I stripped the wire on the catsim before placing into positap - not shown)


13. All connected wires should look like this. Wire 3 (interior white wire) has nothing connected to it. Only wire 1, 2 and 4 are used.


14. Put the o2 sensor connector back into the metal bracket, route the o2 sensor wires and hang the o2 sensor like so.


15. Reinstall the second engine cover carefully not hitting the o2 senor wires or positaps.


16. Zip-tie a cross on the o2 sensor tightly with another zip-tie passed through both like so.


17. Zip-tie o2 catsim here facing this way so it's harder to see Be sure the catsim wires have some slack or they may rip off. (two blue wires are JB4 wires, you may not have those - incase you were wondering what those were)


18. Reinstall everything and connect battery.

19. Turn on car and make sure light is doing something on the catsim - blinking, steady, etc. (I'm not sure what it's suppposed to do) Yes, you can see it after everything is reinstalled if you kneel down and look.

This is with everything reinstalled.

20. Turn on car, clear all engine codes, and idle for 1 minute.

21. Drive around normally for 10 minutes and clear all engine codes again. Do not WOT or accelerate too fast.

22. Drive around normally for about 30 minutes on small roads and the highway not WOT or accelerate too fast.

23. Sit idle in a parking lot and check readiness with the OBDII Scan Tool. You may get Pending DTC codes (PdDTC) but they should not matter when trying to pass as the don't cause an actual CEL. Everything should be ready besides EVAP. Not sure how long EVAP takes, but some states can fail one test and still pass emissions. If you need everything passing check google on how to complete a bmw drive cycle or drive normally for a few days and periodically check the readiness states.

24. Do not clear codes again, do not disconnect the battery, do not reinstall cobb, and do not change jb4 from map 0. If you do any of these things you will have to do steps 20-23 again as all readiness monitors will reset.

25. Take the test and pass.

26. Go back home and DISCONNECT the battery.

27. Then remove the o2 catsim and connect a jumper wire (automotive rated wire because it gets hot) from positap to positap on wire 1 (black wire) to reestablish that connection back to stock. Remove the other two positaps from wire 2 (grey wire) and wire 4 (white wire) as well and store for next year(s). (I'll post a picture up soon)

28. Reconnect the battery and drive around for 10 minutes. Clear all codes.

29. Reinstall Cobb or change jb4 map from map 0.

30. DONE!

Other info:
Some say you can leave it in, but I wouldn't. I'm also not a mechanic so.. believe who you want.
Remember this is for off-road use ONLY and all mentions of passing emissions and driving are hypothetical.

Questions?

[cjindna]

Great thread!

A couple of things are clear after reading through this a few times:
1) Auto-Clear function should be turned off on JB4
2) A74 sim works as described on the N55 platform
3) Likely best to alter the sensor side of the o2 harness

Now a few questions as I get ready to tackle this over the weekend:
1) Can anyone confirm how to disable Auto-Clear on the JB4 running ISO 11?
2) Has anyone attempted to locate the male/female o2 harness connectors in order to build an intermediate harness containing the sim? If so, could you share part numbers?

Appreciate the help and hard work of others here!

[houtan]

Iirc, you cannot disable autoclear in the current n55 Jb4 fw

[deemarr 335i]

Originally Posted by houtan

Iirc, you cannot disable autoclear in the current n55 Jb4 fw

I believe it was fixed in 5_11

[sd306]

Originally Posted by cjindna

Great thread!

A couple of things are clear after reading through this a few times:
1) Auto-Clear function should be turned off on JB4
2) A74 sim works as described on the N55 platform
3) Likely best to alter the sensor side of the o2 harness

Now a few questions as I get ready to tackle this over the weekend:
1) Can anyone confirm how to disable Auto-Clear on the JB4 running ISO 11?
2) Has anyone attempted to locate the male/female o2 harness connectors in order to build an intermediate harness containing the sim? If so, could you share part numbers?

Appreciate the help and hard work of others here!

I tried searching for this and would build it and sell it, but couldnt find the parts. If I were the manufacture i'd design the connectors and make it plug and play. Once I get a 3d printer I may start doing things like this

[Jairomvp]

UPDATE:

my inspection was do a month ago, i was getting codes for dp, even with the sim on and well connected, i cleared the codes twice with jb4, i upgraded to 5_11 drove for good 100 miles or more, then turned jb4 off and checked for codes with a small scanner just to check and it was no codes so i took the chance and went to get my inspection, passed no problems, turned jb4 back on and time to time i get some weird codes plus the DP, my buddy actually turned his sim off because he was getting the same weird codes, car drives fine, i guest is miss signal with jb4 probably.