[schriss]

317km, used 33 Litres: 10.4 L/100, 27.1 UK MPG, 22.6 US MPG
Wasn't driving slow and wasn't trying to get good mpg, quite the opposite, I'd say it's worst case scenario with strong winds and my heavy foot.

[Jag91]

Hi sorry to bother i ‘m having some nox issues on my 320i petrol i had these three codes
2af9
30eo
2ef7
I have changed the nox sensor twice all of these codes are gone but now i have a new code
2af0 nox sensor heating now its giving me this code with every nox sensor i use and car is misfiring when idle or below 1000rpm amd new code regarding map theromstat activation appeared as well 2ef7 pleAse someone help me its costing me alot me and so much headache

[Jag91]

Hi sorry to bother i ‘m having some nox issues on my 320i petrol i had these three codes
2af9
30eo
2ef7
I have changed the nox sensor twice all of these codes are gone but now i have a new code
2af0 nox sensor heating now its giving me this code with every nox sensor i use and car is misfiring when idle or below 1000rpm amd new code regarding map theromstat activation appeared as well 2ef7 pleAse someone help me its costing me alot me and so much headache

[aaronblack]

Originally Posted by Jag91

Hi sorry to bother i 'm having some nox issues on my 320i petrol i had these three codes
2af9
30eo
2ef7
I have changed the nox sensor twice all of these codes are gone but now i have a new code
2af0 nox sensor heating now its giving me this code with every nox sensor i use and car is misfiring when idle or below 1000rpm amd new code regarding map theromstat activation appeared as well 2ef7 pleAse someone help me its costing me alot me and so much headache

2EF7 is your thermostat / activation as you mentioned if you haven't change it with OEM it could be gone but before you do scan it with INPA just to make sure it isn't water pump as I've seen a few members who had that code but turned out to be waterpump.

Some on the N54 engines reported pinched or wrongly connected connectors hence the code, so do all the checks before you opt for any new parts.

2AF0 is NOx and in my opinion if you're spending a lot of money you might be better off getting the NoxEm as the entire NOx system is a little complicated (at least to me). According to bimmerprof's website their NoxEm eliminates this code. Still not sure what it is, maybe head over to their website and do the tests they mention, maybe then you'll be able to pin point the problem.

[Monacoblau]

Thank you for the guide, very helpful.

I recently bought a 325i 3.0L with a N53 engine, 180.000km on the clock. 1 hour after I bought it, I got the yellow engine light on..

I took it to BMW, and they first said it was the 0029F3 DME: Fuel low-pressure sensor, electric. I got that replaced, but unfortunately it had these following issues as well:

002B05 DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, heating
002B07 DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, electric
002B06 DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, lamda linear
002AFB DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, lamda binary
0029F2 DME: Fuel high-pressure system, fuel pressure

I also experience uneven idle in cold start, bad fuel economy, non-smooth ride, heating fan constantly on.

I have waited almost two weeks for a friend to replace it, hence BMW would charge me around 6.000 DKK (720 GBP) to replace one single nox sensor at the rear end of the car. However, it seems he doesn't have time, so I want to replace it myself at a DIY shop.

My first question is, can you recommend I follow this tutorial I found at youtube:

I found the following part no. 11787587129 (as is stated in the service offer received by BMW) in Ireland for 270 GBP with shipping to Denmark, and it is original BMW NOx sensor. Second question, do you recommend I buy original part or is is just as good with a non-original. As I have found a brand named METZGER NOx-sensor, at autodoc.co.uk for around 360 GBP.

Looking forward to hear any of you guys replying.

All the best and hope you guys are safe

[Phil325i]

Or you could go for a NOx Emulator and dispense with the sensor altogether:

https://bimmerprofs.com/

[aaronblack]

Originally Posted by E90 325i 3.0L N53

Thank you for the guide, very helpful.

I recently bought a 325i 3.0L with a N53 engine, 180.000km on the clock. 1 hour after I bought it, I got the yellow engine light on..

I took it to BMW, and they first said it was the 0029F3 DME: Fuel low-pressure sensor, electric. I got that replaced, but unfortunately it had these following issues as well:

002B05 DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, heating
002B07 DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, electric
002B06 DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, lamda linear
002AFB DME: Nitrogen-oxide sensor, lamda binary
0029F2 DME: Fuel high-pressure system, fuel pressure

I also experience uneven idle in cold start, bad fuel economy, non-smooth ride, heating fan constantly on.

I have waited almost two weeks for a friend to replace it, hence BMW would charge me around 6.000 DKK (720 GBP) to replace one single nox sensor at the rear end of the car. However, it seems he doesn't have time, so I want to replace it myself at a DIY shop.

My first question is, can you recommend I follow this tutorial I found at youtube:

I found the following part no. 11787587129 (as is stated in the service offer received by BMW) in Ireland for 270 GBP with shipping to Denmark, and it is original BMW NOx sensor. Second question, do you recommend I buy original part or is is just as good with a non-original. As I have found a brand named METZGER NOx-sensor, at autodoc.co.uk for around 360 GBP.

Looking forward to hear any of you guys replying.

All the best and hope you guys are safe

Exactly what Phil said above and what I said earlier. It seems that even OEM NOx systems will fail again over time, so there isn't a point (in my opinion) to get OEM.

The best option seems to be NOxEM from bimmerprof, it's about £320 I think.

My NOx doesn't work either, I searched around for options and many recommend NoXEM.

[Monacoblau]

Originally Posted by aaronblack

Exactly what Phil said above and what I said earlier. It seems that even OEM NOx systems will fail again over time, so there isn't a point (in my opinion) to get OEM.

The best option seems to be NOxEM from bimmerprof, it's about £320 I think.

My NOx doesn't work either, I searched around for options and many recommend NoXEM.

Thank you Phil and Aaron!

I will definitely consider bimmerprof, however, I find it a bit confusing as I am very new to all of this and a first time owner of a BMW.

What I understand from bimmerprof is that I have to have ISTA, especially for encoding and re-adaptation after installing the NOXEM.

Question, can it be true that ISTA costs around 15 GBP? https://www.bimmerdiagnostics.com/?g...Anchor:58AHNEc

I really appreciate your answers!

[Phil325i]

Any good BMW independent specialist will have ISTA if you don't feel confident about doing it yourself...

[Monacoblau]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Any good BMW independent specialist will have ISTA if you don't feel confident about doing it yourself...

Thank you Phil! I think I will go for the Bimmerprofs NOXEM 129 and get a BMW specialist to do the programing/coding.

Appreciate all the answers

[aaronblack]

Originally Posted by Monacoblau

Thank you Phil! I think I will go for the Bimmerprofs NOXEM 129 and get a BMW specialist to do the programing/coding.

Appreciate all the answers

As you are new to BMW, I would recommend getting a copy of ISTA and starting small. It's very handy for checking fault codes, resetting etc. And later if you're confident some coding/programming.

[Dormermike]

Hi guys. I recently replaced my NOx and all is well - engine running fine, no misfires and no codes. The exhaust seems to be more sooty than normal though. I recently put new plugs in and the index 11 injectors all seem ok as none of the plugs were wet or overly black. All seemed similar. Car does seem a bit less powerful these days but its still pretty quick so maybe im just more used to it (had it 5 years).

Any ideas? could it be the coilpacks or maybe the inlets - is on 70k.

or maybe im just over reacting. Its hard to quantify but it seems more soot than it used to.

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Dormermike

Hi guys. I recently replaced my NOx and all is well - engine running fine, no misfires and no codes. The exhaust seems to be more sooty than normal though. I recently put new plugs in and the index 11 injectors all seem ok as none of the plugs were wet or overly black. All seemed similar. Car does seem a bit less powerful these days but its still pretty quick so maybe im just more used to it (had it 5 years).

Any ideas? could it be the coilpacks or maybe the inlets - is on 70k.

or maybe im just over reacting. Its hard to quantify but it seems more soot than it used to.

Originally Posted by Dormermike

Hi guys. I recently replaced my NOx and all is well - engine running fine, no misfires and no codes. The exhaust seems to be more sooty than normal though. I recently put new plugs in and the index 11 injectors all seem ok as none of the plugs were wet or overly black. All seemed similar. Car does seem a bit less powerful these days but its still pretty quick so maybe im just more used to it (had it 5 years).

Any ideas? could it be the coilpacks or maybe the inlets - is on 70k.

or maybe im just over reacting. Its hard to quantify but it seems more soot than it used to.

Most likely it's nothing to worry about. More soot means more fuel (Un-burnt). So that could be driving style affected - short trips etc... have you tried an Italian tuneup - it does wonders for mine which is at 143k miles. The other things to check are lambs probes and (post cat). Ignition related problems will be highlighted by a misfire so you could also read for misfires however if bad enough your ecu will complain- misfires generally can also be felt so id be surprised if you hadn't noticed. One of those blue tooth readers are you best bet at reading misfires if you suspect.

[Dormermike]

thanks Will

No misfires. I will try the italian tune up

[jirka330i]

At some point misfires can be caused by carbonization on intake valves leading to compression losses. See how my intake ventils looked when I had around 75k miles. I cleaned it by walnutblasting. I also installed oil catch tank to prevent oil coming back from crankcase to air intake (even with properly working CCV membrane I catch almost a pint of oil every 7,000miles). I also blinded EGR return to cold air intake to limit the carbon nuilt.

[Phil325i]

Sounds just like my set-up Jirka (OCC, EGR blank, silicone inlet). You catch about the same amount of oil as I do. I get about 0.5L every 6,000 miles. Surprised to see the amount of carbon on your valves at only 75K. How long have you had the OCC fitted?

[jirka330i]

I fitted OCC and EGR blanking when I did walnutblast (75K miles). My N53 carbonization was rather oily (kind of black chewing gum...) unlike N54 "dry" carbonization which I saw at a friend of mine.
Another friend with N53 had his intake valves looking like below at 50K miles...
Anyway, I am interested to see what will happen in next 15K+ miles...I am going to check it in winter time again

[Phil325i]

Thanks for the update - keep us informed. My indy has done a few walnut blasts. Mostly turbo motors (which were badly in need of it!). He's only done one N/A engine (N53) and in his view, it hardly needed doing.

[4foothill]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Thanks for the update - keep us informed. My indy has done a few walnut blasts. Mostly turbo motors (which were badly in need of it!). He's only done one N/A engine (N53) and in his view, it hardly needed doing.

Mine definitely needed doing at 100k miles, they looked worse than the attached picture, with all of them looking like the port on the right. Although I do think a clogged CCV has contributed towards it since I'm also leaking out out my OFHG, oil filler cap and valve cover (which I assume is from too much crankcase pressure).

I do with walnut blasting is overkill though, you can get pretty good results with a ton of carb cleaner, some pipettes, a brass gun cleaning kit and a lot of patience.

[jirka330i]

Originally Posted by 4foothill

Mine definitely needed doing at 100k miles, they looked worse than the attached picture, with all of them looking like the port on the right. Although I do think a clogged CCV has contributed towards it since I'm also leaking out out my OFHG, oil filler cap and valve cover (which I assume is from too much crankcase pressure).

I do with walnut blasting is overkill though, you can get pretty good results with a ton of carb cleaner, some pipettes, a brass gun cleaning kit and a lot of patience.

Not sure if I would have patience for the process you describe...I personally prefer walnutblast- you need about an hour (not taking into account the prep job) and a good compressor, VAC, blasting adapter, about 3kg of walnut shells and a sandblaster gun from Lidl to reach a solid result...

[jirka330i]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Thanks for the update - keep us informed. My indy has done a few walnut blasts. Mostly turbo motors (which were badly in need of it!). He's only done one N/A engine (N53) and in his view, it hardly needed doing.

well..I hope your indy is right....but as a previous owner of 330i M54 and N52 I am used to have the intake valves clean...so I do care also about my current N53

[Ceda]

Hi guys,
2 weeeks ago I replaced NOx sensor. Mada an adaptation by bimmer template. All was perfectly working. Consumption by refueling after 600km was 8,3l/100km. Consumption on highway by 130 kmh GPS on cruise control was 7,1l/100 with avg.110km/h. Amazing!
But - yesterday I have started holiday jurney and after cca 200km I have noticed increased fuel consuption. The diagnostic showed 30E9 fault. Detail diagnostic of NOx senzor find out that the "Schubabschaltung" value is out of the box I have no idea how is possible that 200km is enought to clogged the NOx. May it be caused by oil consuption by probably bad PCV membrane? Or do you have ani idea how to refresh the NOx "Schubabschaltung "? Others values going well.
Thx for yours ideas.