[E92William]

What you said is exactly what came to my mind as to why people don't do this mod. Most people modding these cars have an n54 and are trying to figure out how to make 17000 hp. How the car handles is a bigger deal to me at least.

[Phil325i]

The two panel supports you removed are fairly key for holding up the undertray. Did you just omit those screws or were you able to self-tap into the new brace?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

The two panel supports you removed are fairly key for holding up the undertray. Did you just omit those screws or were you able to self-tap into the new brace?

I omitted them. They could probably be retained with a few holes drilled and minor modifications to those 2 hangers. Another option would be to figure out what tupe of bolt fits the 3 nutserts that come pre installed in the brace and use bolts in place of those 2 hangers. You would just have to drill a few holes in the plastic tray.

That was going to be my plan but once the tray was in place it felt fine without anything mounting it there.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Also, after seat we nee to see this rig on the scales Biginboca ! You can rent race scales for reasonable iirc :-) Or just drive to a dump

Yeah I do want to get it weighed. I looked online and couldn’t find any places near me that do corner balancing so a trip to the dump will be in order once the seats are in. They are going to take a while seems like they are on a slow boat from Germany lol

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

The two panel supports you removed are fairly key for holding up the undertray. Did you just omit those screws or were you able to self-tap into the new brace?

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I omitted them. They could probably be retained with a few holes drilled and minor modifications to those 2 hangers. Another option would be to figure out what tupe of bolt fits the 3 nutserts that come pre installed in the brace and use bolts in place of those 2 hangers. You would just have to drill a few holes in the plastic tray.

That was going to be my plan but once the tray was in place it felt fine without anything mounting it there.

I retained them.

You need to drill 2 small holes in the stiffening plate to allow the screws to pass through.

Then you need longer screws for the mount pieces to the subframe. And you also need shorter screws for the aero panel attachment to the bracket.

[309xi]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Handling/Braking Upgrades:

*BMW F30 435i Front 340mm Brembo Brakes and 340mm 2 Piece Rotors
M-Factory Helical LSD
*BMW 12:1 Ratio E92M3 Steering Rack
*BMW Performance Suspension with front sway bar
*BMW E92 M3 Front Control Arms
Added Camber by Opening Front Strut Mounts (-1.7 front and rear camber)
UUC Strut Brace
SRP Front Drop Spring Perches
*BMW E92 M3 Rear Control Arms
Manzo Adjustable Rear Toe Arms
Whiteline Rear Subframe Inserts
Apex Bullet Nose Wheel Studs
Turner 10mm Wheel Spacers (Rear)
Apex Arc 8 18x9 ET30 Wheels
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 255/35 Square

*BMW F30 435i Front 340mm Brembo Brakes and 340mm 2 Piece Rotors

Does this brake setup work on xdrive models? Did you get the brakes as a complete set from a donor/junkyard? Just wondering if yours came with the grey calipers or if those had to be purchased separately.


Love your car btw, it's a huge inspiration even though mine isn't a manual, a coupe or white lol

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by 309xi

Does this brake setup work on xdrive models? Did you get the brakes as a complete set from a donor/junkyard? Just wondering if yours came with the grey calipers or if those had to be purchased separately.


Love your car btw, it's a huge inspiration even though mine isn't a manual, a coupe or white lol

Thanks!

Yes, these front brakes came complete off a wrecked 435i convertible. I got the calipers, rotors, pads, and dust shield and swapped them all. I’m not sure if there are differences between xdrive and rwd as far as the E90 brakes go.

[The Nightman]

Re: M3 subframe brace

All credit goes to tetsuo111. I believe he was the first to fit the M3 panel onto his E91 and made me aware that the panel was structural:



I ended up making my own brace instead of fitting the M3 panel. The braces are approximately 16-17" long and are installed using M10 rivnuts (#07147199279) and bolts.



https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...8#post25628938

[Biginboca]

Still waiting for seats to arrive. I did the brakes today. Went with the ECS Tuning lightweight front rotors which saved about 3.5lbs each. Then some stoptech rears that were the closest match. For pads I did the bmw oem pads in the low dust version, which is what I had before. I’ve got plenty of braking and felt I can afford a little less stopping power and enjoy less dust.

Porsche says 1lb of rotational weight equals 6lbs minimum of static weight on the car. So saving 7lbs off the rotors should give an equivalent performance improvement of losing 42lbs minimum off the car, and this was the reason I chose these front rotors.









Can’t wait for the recaro seats to arrive. It’s taking forever, stupid Corona Virus causing all kinds of shipping delays

[Minutes2Midnight]

Rotors look good! I've had them on both of my cars with 3 track days on the current set and they've held up great!

[Phil325i]

Anyone thinking of fitting the M3 under panel or 'two-bar' brace in Europe, be aware that if your car has electric steering, the panel/brace will foul on the steering rack which hangs much lower than the standard rack due to the electric motor.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Still waiting for seats to arrive. I did the brakes today. Went with the ECS Tuning lightweight front rotors which saved about 3.5lbs each. Then some stoptech rears that were the closest match. For pads I did the bmw oem pads in the low dust version, which is what I had before. I’ve got plenty of braking and felt I can afford a little less stopping power and enjoy less dust.

Porsche says 1lb of rotational weight equals 6lbs minimum of static weight on the car. So saving 7lbs off the rotors should give an equivalent performance improvement of losing 42lbs minimum off the car, and this was the reason I chose these front rotors.









Can’t wait for the recaro seats to arrive. It’s taking forever, stupid Corona Virus causing all kinds of shipping delays

Did you swap out (upgrade) your rear brakes as well?
Also, didn’t you just swap out your brakes 1-2 years ago?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by W37V

Did you swap out (upgrade) your rear brakes as well?
Also, didn’t you just swap out your brakes 1-2 years ago?

You have a good memory! I bought a set of front brakes from a wrecked car about 2 years ago. It was rotors, pads, dust shields, and calipers. These parts had about 15k miles on them before the car was wrecked.

Since then I’ve put maybe 35k more miles on them, so they had maybe 50k miles on them now. These front parts still had life in them but not a lot, and my rear brakes were originals with 107k miles on them, so I decided to just do everything now even though I could have waited probably another 6-12 months.

For the rear I’m still running stock calipers but I decided to do a drilled and slotted rear rotors to match the front cosmetically. And of course the brakes were all due for a bleed big time, the oem fluid was coming out lime green when I started bleeding them.

New seats coming soon. It took 2 weeks for them to get from Frankfurt to arrive in NYC customs yesterday. Hoping they come to my house this week so I can install next weekend...

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

You have a good memory! I bought a set of front brakes from a wrecked car about 2 years ago. It was rotors, pads, dust shields, and calipers. These parts had about 15k miles on them before the car was wrecked.

Since then I’ve put maybe 35k more miles on them, so they had maybe 50k miles on them now. These front parts still had life in them but not a lot, and my rear brakes were originals with 107k miles on them, so I decided to just do everything now even though I could have waited probably another 6-12 months.

For the rear I’m still running stock calipers but I decided to do a drilled and slotted rear rotors to match the front cosmetically. And of course the brakes were all due for a bleed big time, the oem fluid was coming out lime green when I started bleeding them.

New seats coming soon. It took 2 weeks for them to get from Frankfurt to arrive in NYC customs yesterday. Hoping they come to my house this week so I can install next weekend...

What made you decide to keep the stock rear calipers?

Also, I’m debating about doing the m3 steering rack. In your opinion, is it worth doing it?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by W37V

What made you decide to keep the stock rear calipers?

Also, I’m debating about doing the m3 steering rack. In your opinion, is it worth doing it?

I put a lot of thought into which way to go for the brakes, so hear comes a long winded explanation lol...

The bmw performance brake package for this car was a front upgrade only, and the coding for that option seemed designed around that set up so I figured why get outside those parameters.

Then when I looked at changing the rear calipers besides being outside that option for coding, you have to change to the M3 master cylinder, and then you have to deal with parking brake issues. On top of that running larger rotors is adding weight in exchange for a braking capacity I don’t feel I need. I was already trying to keep the car light and adding additional unsprung rotating weight from a larger rotor would be a performance compromise I didn’t think was warranted for what in essence would amount to only a cosmetic upgrade since I don’t need the added braking in the rear.

FYI I did the math on the front caliper swaps and their piston areas...

2437.88mm is 6 pot piston area per caliper for the bmw performance brake for my car which requires no master cylinder upgrade. (1 ea x 28mm, 32mm, and 36mm dia pistons per side.)
2513.28mm is 4 pot piston area per side (F30 brembo I purchased 40mm dia x 2 per side)
2551.76mm is stock single sliding piston area (came on car) (57mm dia x 1)

So changing the front caliper is well within stock parameters and is just a lay up as a cheap and effective upgrade, especially if you can keep the rotors light. In this vein I think it’s really silly that some guys are going for F30 performance brakes with 370mm front and 345mm rear rotors on their 328, it’s just going to slow down an already slow car. But they like the looks I guess. (The front brakes on the new Supra 3.0 are basically the same as the f30 ones I have now. That seems more than adequate for a 300hp 3000lb car I would think.)

The M3 rack I found take off on eBay for $300 delivered. This is a mod I appreciate every day! The quick steering response adds a go kart like feeling and unless you know it was changed it feels very natural to the car. I let my buddy drive it a few weeks ago and not knowing anything about that swap, he commented “Wow, the steering on this car!”. I would not pay the $1200 or whatever for a new rack but as a take off swap it’s great. It also has minimal assist so the steering is heavy but lightens at speed similar to a non power steering car, but not nearly like having no power steering. There is absolutely no dead spot on center a 1/8” of movement in the wheel produces a change in direction and you can feel it loading up in turns. I am very happy with that mod.

[Biginboca]

Just as a follow up I happened to be parked next to a brand new S560 Mercedes today and I noticed the brakes. The front brakes were noticeably larger than the rears with a ratio that looks about identical to mine. So having the brake bias properly coded and a modest front upgrade I feel makes sense for a spirited daily driver...

[Biginboca]

Christmas in August! Took a month to arrive and one day to install lol. I was very eager to put these in. When I first sat in them I thought, wow seats are pretty intense. They felt kind of weird until I grabbed the wheel and the shifter... and then they felt amazing!!





I was toying with doing a rear seat delete to take off another 65lbs because I figured my 11 year old little guy might not be able to get back there any more, but when I put the seat all the way forward he can still get in. So that will wait a while until we add another 4 door probably early next year.

[Biginboca]

BTW, shout out to Bimmergeeks Pro Tool. Using it I was able to code out airbag and active head restraint warning lights from the seat swap. It is such an easy to use and powerful tool way more capable and faster than Carly which I also have.

[Noir]

Brother. I am so out of date. I looooooove the work on the roof. Once the drivetrain gets straightened out and front suspension upgraded to match the rear's (b6s I got for free), roof or some brushed Arc8s. Either or.... need.

Questions for you:

Torsen was your choice? Not criticizing — just trying to satisfy my insatiable curiosity
Steering rack?! Bruh. How painful was the install? That sounds real lovely tbh. I thought solid mounts made me feel like that — but to have that too?! Omg. And that recent support mod you did sounds slick!

Moar pls. :,)

Really stoked to have read the last half of this thread within an hour

I'd love to see the weight you've shed, whenever time permits of course!

This build is fiiiiilthy.

[Noir]

Also, when sourcing tie rods for the m3 r&p, are you forced to default to m3 spec tie rods now??? Silly question, just to confirm...

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Noir

Brother. I am so out of date. I looooooove the work on the roof. Once the drivetrain gets straightened out and front suspension upgraded to match the rear's (b6s I got for free), roof or some brushed Arc8s. Either or.... need.

Questions for you:

Torsen was your choice? Not criticizing — just trying to satisfy my insatiable curiosity
Steering rack?! Bruh. How painful was the install? That sounds real lovely tbh. I thought solid mounts made me feel like that — but to have that too?! Omg. And that recent support mod you did sounds slick!

Moar pls. :,)

Really stoked to have read the last half of this thread within an hour

I'd love to see the weight you've shed, whenever time permits of course!

This build is fiiiiilthy.

Thanks dude! I went Torsen because it seemed the best choice for a daily. No clutch packs to wear out and the only potential downside is if one tire is airborne then it won’t lock up, which is not a situation I expect to encounter lol. If I was building a track car I might have looked more at clutch pack LSD’s.

Steering rack was not painful, maybe a 3 or 4 hour install. Unless you are swapping on M3 steering knuckles/hubs you will use stock 328 tie rods. The M3 Rods are actually too long to use with 328i knuckles. So the install is just disconnect the 2 fluid lines from the rack, disconnect the steering shaft, disconnect the 2 mounting bolts, and unscrew the tie rods from the rack. Swap the new rack in, connect those 7 things, and then bleed the system. After you must get an alignment ASAP. That’s it.

*Pro Tip: center the steering wheel before you start anything and secure it in place with a ratchet strap around the passenger door grab handle so it can’t spin. This is absolutely essential if the wheel spins you will break your clock spring and have a hell of a time. Then center the new rack before install by measuring how much shaft is showing on each side before you install it. Also cut the black plastic tab (you’ll see what I mean on the new rack) and connect the rack already centered.

Weight is pending. I am guessing right around 3000lbs but I’m really jonesing to get it on a scale to see exactly. Btw, I raced a 335 E90 a couple days ago. We were neck and neck to about 90 and then he started walking me. He had me by maybe 4-5 car lengths at 130. After he put his window down and he pointed at my car and said “damn I like that!” I asked if he was tuned and he said, “yea... I got 2 tunes lol”. So not sure what that means but i could hear a loud ass blow off valve lol. Anyway, I’m sure my car is at least as fast as a stock 335 up to about 100mph now. I also need to do some fresh dragy runs and really see where it’s at I’m thinking around 13.4-13.5 1/4 mile at 104-105 now.

The handling of the car is sick btw! And the new seats hold you in so you can feel everything going on, it feels like you can get much closer to the limits of the car because you aren’t guessing what’s going on.

[Noir]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Thanks dude! I went Torsen because it seemed the best choice for a daily. No clutch packs to wear out and the only potential downside is if one tire is airborne then it won't lock up, which is not a situation I expect to encounter lol. If I was building a track car I might have looked more at clutch pack LSD's.

Steering rack was not painful, maybe a 3 or 4 hour install. Unless you are swapping on M3 steering knuckles/hubs you will use stock 328 tie rods. The M3 Rods are actually too long to use with 328i knuckles. So the install is just disconnect the 2 fluid lines from the rack, disconnect the steering shaft, disconnect the 2 mounting bolts, and unscrew the tie rods from the rack. Swap the new rack in, connect those 7 things, and then bleed the system. After you must get an alignment ASAP. That's it.

*Pro Tip: center the steering wheel before you start anything and secure it in place with a ratchet strap around the passenger door grab handle so it can't spin. This is absolutely essential if the wheel spins you will break your clock spring and have a hell of a time. Then center the new rack before install by measuring how much shaft is showing on each side before you install it. Also cut the black plastic tab (you'll see what I mean on the new rack) and connect the rack already centered.

Weight is pending. I am guessing right around 3000lbs but I'm really jonesing to get it on a scale to see exactly. Btw, I raced a 335 E90 a couple days ago. We were neck and neck to about 90 and then he started walking me. He had me by maybe 4-5 car lengths at 130. After he put his window down and he pointed at my car and said "damn I like that!" I asked if he was tuned and he said, "yea... I got 2 tunes lol". So not sure what that means but i could hear a loud ass blow off valve lol. Anyway, I'm sure my car is at least as fast as a stock 335 up to about 100mph now. I also need to do some fresh dragy runs and really see where it's at I'm thinking around 13.4-13.5 1/4 mile at 104-105 now.

The handling of the car is sick btw! And the new seats hold you in so you can feel everything going on, it feels like you can get much closer to the limits of the car because you aren't guessing what's going on.

He is probably referring to his trans tune as well — thats wicked nonetheless! Thank you for the info on the rack! Those seats are stellar. 😭 My driver mod has gotten thicc since coming home. I feel like a carbon fiber everything and I'd still keep the car at OEM weight.