[F32Spawn]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

This sounds like leaky injectors but you say you have index 12?
So maybe a fueling issue with lpfp or hpfp.

I’ve read that index 12s can still leak. From the logs the pressure at the fuel rail and low pressure sensor look to be exactly where they need to be. HPFP was replaced by BMW already.

[xm4tr1x]

Originally Posted by RSL

Target has corrections applied for different environmental/operating conditions and will move some as they change. Do you have the MBoost option purchased in MHD?

Yes mboost is purchased, ok so target may change +/- few psi depending on various conditions. Do you see any indication as to why the custom stopped there? Am I close to maxing out something? I mean $700 for a remote tune 3 revisions feels I've been ripped, I had 6 revisions on stockies..

[xm4tr1x]

Originally Posted by Tewter9

first time using the logging feature but can someone take a look at my log from 3rd to 4th and tell me if anything looks off?
Car started running weird after replacing all coils and spark plugs, Boost Solenoid, Both Vanos Solenoid, MAP sensor, TMAP and Intake Manifold Sensor.
Car feels slower to accelerate in low end and idles with a pulsing rhythm with the occasional fluctuation as if its about to stall.
I couldn’t pull all the way to redline due to traffic so hopefully this is enough information to work with...

https://datazap.me/u/tewter9/e92-n55...og=0&data=4-20

You have a fair bit of timing corrections, I'd suggest gapping your plugs and run 98

[RSL]

Originally Posted by xm4tr1x

Yes mboost is purchased, ok so target may change +/- few psi depending on various conditions. Do you see any indication as to why the custom stopped there? Am I close to maxing out something? I mean $700 for a remote tune 3 revisions feels I've been ripped, I had 6 revisions on stockies..

Nothing immediately obvious jumps out. I asked about MBoost because it seems limited to around stock boost ceiling, but that's obviously not the issue. The map and setup have room, it's only at 160 load req and 50% WGDC, but just because more is available doesn't mean you could/should run it.

It's a reasonable and clean tune. Reasonable and clean means safer, but lower potential power. If you didn't give him any expectations and are willing to risk more, tell him that. If you told him absolutely 0 timing corrections and you frequently WOT through 5th or 6th gear, only so much you can do. You're paying for knowledge and experience, not number of revisions. If they nail it in 2, it's no more less valuable than if it took 20. Of course, if they think it's done in 3 and customer wants changes, that's a conversion that needs to happen between the owner and the tuner.

[Fallenangel123]

When logging post flash, would a log on a dyno through gears 3 and 4 be more useful than a 3rd gear pull on the street?

[xm4tr1x]

Originally Posted by RSL

Nothing immediately obvious jumps out. I asked about MBoost because it seems limited to around stock boost ceiling, but that's obviously not the issue. The map and setup have room, it's only at 160 load req and 50% WGDC, but just because more is available doesn't mean you could/should run it.

It's a reasonable and clean tune. Reasonable and clean means safer, but lower potential power. If you didn't give him any expectations and are willing to risk more, tell him that. If you told him absolutely 0 timing corrections and you frequently WOT through 5th or 6th gear, only so much you can do. You're paying for knowledge and experience, not number of revisions. If they nail it in 2, it's no more less valuable than if it took 20. Of course, if they think it's done in 3 and customer wants changes, that's a conversion that needs to happen between the owner and the tuner.

Thanks RSL, reading this makes perfect sense, I think i just needed someone to verify i wasn't stooged.

[boostd92]

(sorry this is cross posted in the N55 section, looking for more eyeballs)

I've been fighting fuel cut out on my 2011 335i with a Wedge tune. The car has Fuel-It stage 2 LPFP, Pure Stage 2 Turbo, and an MHD custom 93 octane tune (and all supporting mods).

I got a charging system malfunction the other day while cruising at 50mph off-boost. It just so happened I had cleared all my adaptations and accidentally hit "register battery" at the bottom of the MHD adapations screen earlier that day. I figured it had something to do with that. Drove to work the next day and no warnings.

Decided to do a log on the way home that day and "Fuel Pump Malfunction," and ABS/DSC warnings came on once full boost hit and engine shut down. Pulled over on the shoulder and engine would crank but would not restart. Took about 15 minutes before the engine fired and everything ran normally- I haven't beat on it since.

I read the log and thankfully had logged voltage because of the previous charging system malfunction I got. Here is the log:

https://datazap.me/u/apcrews/fuel-pu...og=0&data=4-14

Right when full boost hits (which is another issue I need to address... he has the target at 21.x psi - too much for 93?), my battery voltage went from 14.x to 18.x then all the way up to 19.x! It looks like right when the voltage changed, the fuel pressure took a dump. I'm guessing the car freaked out and shut down the EKP which means the LPFP stopped pumping to the HPFP.

Has anyone had this happen before? I've ordered an alternator but wasn't sure if it's a common thing... seems like only the alternator should be regulating the voltage but thought I'd ask.

Fault code list for grins:

[xm4tr1x]

Originally Posted by boostd92

(sorry this is cross posted in the N55 section, looking for more eyeballs)

I've been fighting fuel cut out on my 2011 335i with a Wedge tune. The car has Fuel-It stage 2 LPFP, Pure Stage 2 Turbo, and an MHD custom 93 octane tune (and all supporting mods).

I got a charging system malfunction the other day while cruising at 50mph off-boost. It just so happened I had cleared all my adaptations and accidentally hit "register battery" at the bottom of the MHD adapations screen earlier that day. I figured it had something to do with that. Drove to work the next day and no warnings.

Decided to do a log on the way home that day and "Fuel Pump Malfunction," and ABS/DSC warnings came on once full boost hit and engine shut down. Pulled over on the shoulder and engine would crank but would not restart. Took about 15 minutes before the engine fired and everything ran normally- I haven't beat on it since.

I read the log and thankfully had logged voltage because of the previous charging system malfunction I got. Here is the log:

https://datazap.me/u/apcrews/fuel-pu...og=0&data=4-14

Right when full boost hits (which is another issue I need to address... he has the target at 21.x psi - too much for 93?), my battery voltage went from 14.x to 18.x then all the way up to 19.x! It looks like right when the voltage changed, the fuel pressure took a dump. I'm guessing the car freaked out and shut down the EKP which means the LPFP stopped pumping to the HPFP.

Has anyone had this happen before? I've ordered an alternator but wasn't sure if it's a common thing... seems like only the alternator should be regulating the voltage but thought I'd ask.

Fault code list for grins:

You might need the https://www.fuel-it.com/bmw-e-series-fi-650hp-lpfp-upgrade/

[boostd92]

^^ I already have this...

https://www.fuel-it.com/bmw-e-series...-lpfp-upgrade/

Is that not enough for a 500whp on E50? What would that have to do with my voltage issue?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by boostd92

^^ I already have this...

https://www.fuel-it.com/bmw-e-series...-lpfp-upgrade/

Is that not enough for a 500whp on E50? What would that have to do with my voltage issue?

Answers: yes, plenty and, as you suspect, nothing

1) Although I have little experience with the N55, I'm told that the two shadow codes (2BF0, 2BDE) are characteristic of HPFP degradation, which may be warrantied by BMW

2) It is likely that the cause of the voltage issues is unrelated to the fuel pressure issues (although it's conceivable that the voltage excursions contributed to problem). However, the fact that you have more than one BSD error in your list does raise the possibility that the alternator/regulator are actually OK (although probably not).

BSD (Bit Serial Data line) is a bus connecting water pump, alternator, oil level sensor and IBS to the DME. BSD is how the DME commands changes in alternator output.

You may have noticed that the alternator has two wire connections - a thick red wire to the battery and starter and a thinner single wire to the voltage regulator. The thin one is the BSD bus wire. It's worth checking if that wire is secure. Even if it is, the BSD fault is a concern - a bad regulator could bring down the BSD bus or something bad anywhere else on the bus could bring it down, resulting in charging abnormalities.

Best guess it the regulator (clearly the alternator itself is fine) because when the BSD bus is disconnected the regulator defaults to 13.8V and you are seeing 18V intermittently. But still worth keeping all this in mind in your troubleshooting

[boostd92]

^ Thank you for the reply!

In my frantic googling, I've also seen those two shadow codes pointing to HPFP replacement.

Where I'm stuck is wondering if I've been having voltage problems this whole time that's triggering these shadow codes - only because the Rail Pressure dives exactly when the voltage spikes - if that's been happening on a lesser scale I might not be able to determine if rail pressure is HPFP or voltage related (? - not sure if my logic is correct here, I never logged battery voltage before this incident and am not sure now much voltage irregularity it would take to throw a BSD code).

Last question - all the popular parts sites (FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, Turner, etc) all list a voltage regulator separately from the alternator for all E90 335's. Real OEM does not list one for an N55 E90. The other oddity is that the voltage regulator says 180A, and Real OEM lists the N55 alternator as 170A. Curious about compatibility.. definitely cheaper to buy a $70 Bosch voltage regulator than a $300 alternator (that still works).

[SixBanger]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Your log only goes to 5700 rpm but OK. There was no throttle lift off at the end so we can't re-evaluate O2 sensor response time but OK. AFRs look reasonable. Your fuel pressures are fine, no throttle closures and WGDC is good. You do have timing corrections on 4 cylinders so you should add octane (a gallon or two of E85 per tank) or retune. There no big obvious problem that I can see. I do find it curious that there is only a 3 degree IAT rise. So you have a very effective IC or perhaps there's something off there.

However, you didn't address most of my questions. Reading between the lines, it seems like what you're saying is that the car ran better on E50 and you haven't been happy since you switched to 93 octane. But it remains unclear to me what the problem is and I have no idea what efforts were made to get your tunes dialed in properly after the turbo upgrade. If you liked E50, why not just go back to it? This just seems like a tuning issue to me.

Time for someone else to weigh in on the OPs troubles.

Are you signing off on me? Tuner sent me a revised map last Wednesday, car has been running much better. He changed out the Vanos tables with his own. .... This log was created today.
https://datazap.me/u/theknot83/bq93v8?log=0&data=3-22

My car has down pipes (catless), last intake cleaning was in January of this year. Last Saturday I installed a new EKPM3 module.
New turbos were installed in APril, new revised map was created by tuner in May. I switched from E50 to 93 late last year and today I continue to use 93. Getting ethanol is a pain in the ass, especially where I live. Filling 2 (5 gallon) gas cans isn't easy and it's a pain, plus the risk of leaking fuel in the trunk.
I did lay off the throttle after ending the log. So, you're a firm believer that one of the o2's are dead?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by SixBanger

Are you signing off on me? Tuner sent me a revised map last Wednesday, car has been running much better. He changed out the Vanos tables with his own. .... This log was created today.
https://datazap.me/u/theknot83/bq93v8?log=0&data=3-22

My car has down pipes (catless), last intake cleaning was in January of this year. Last Saturday I installed a new EKPM3 module.
New turbos were installed in APril, new revised map was created by tuner in May. I switched from E50 to 93 late last year and today I continue to use 93. Getting ethanol is a pain in the ass, especially where I live. Filling 2 (5 gallon) gas cans isn't easy and it's a pain, plus the risk of leaking fuel in the trunk.
I did lay off the throttle after ending the log. So, you're a firm believer that one of the o2's are dead?

Not "signing off" - I asked for others to weigh in because I could not see anything wrong other than the slow O2 response. - more on that later.

You described your original problem this way:

"I stopped running E50 and went to 93 pump. Since the transition, I've been encountering (2aaf) code and I'm a firm believer that something isn't right. Car drags hits heels in low acceleration and slow speeds, car just isn't fun to drive anymore."

You were pretty fixed on the 2AAF code and that your problem had to be related to the LPFP. But your pressures were fine and I think you wasted your money/time on the EKP swap. What I needed from you was a clear description of when tuning changes were implemented relative to hardware changes and when exactly the problem began. The problem in making any diagnosis was that you changed a number of things beside just going from E50 to 93 pump all in a relatively short time period. I asked about the time lime to explore the possibility of a tuning, rather than a hardware, issue. And maybe it was - incredibly you don't even mention whether the new tune has affected the driveability issues that you started with.

So, O2 sensors. I never said that your O2 sensors were dead, I said they were tired. Look at some of the other posted logs and compare for yourself - see what happens with nearly everyone else's AFRs when you let off the throttle - they go to 234 and they do it immediately. Yours dribble upwards slowly and never get to 234. Draw your own conclusions.

EDIT: you do have coincident timing pulls on three cylinders so you might want to add a gallon or two of E85 per tank.

[thormessiah]

Hello ya'll. I'm chasing a long crank issue on my n54 and decided to give the mhd log a try. Went on a run, and immediately after the pull got a red battery warning with error codes 2E97, IBS Missing, 2E85 and 2E83. I'm guessing thats why the fuel pressure when kaput at the
end
https://datazap.me/u/volfwaley/stock...11-19-20-24-25

[dpaul]

Don't think your codes have anything to do with your fuel pumps. They are all communication codes relating to the BSD bus that is used by water pump, alternator, IBS and oil level sensor to communicate with the DME.

Long cranks are a classic HPFP failure sign however.

[thormessiah]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Don't think your codes have anything to do with your fuel pumps. They are all communication codes relating to the BSD bus that is used by water pump, alternator, IBS and oil level sensor to communicate with the DME.

Long cranks are a classic HPFP failure sign however.

I'm going to replace my negative battery terminal and see if that clears it up.Besides the codes, anything unusual about my logs?

[akuenn]

Does anything look out of place?
Stage 1+ on 91
https://datazap.me/u/akuenn/log-1565...og=0&data=3-20

Stage 2+ on 91 just downpipes and dci
https://datazap.me/u/akuenn/log-1565...og=0&data=3-20

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by thormessiah

I'm going to replace my negative battery terminal and see if that clears it up.Besides the codes, anything unusual about my logs?

Battery Neg cable:
Randomly replacing things is a generally frustrating enterprise. Out of all the possible places for electrical problems to occur, why choose the negative cable? Something you didn't share?

Log:
In short, awful.
1) You don't hold your accelerator pedal all the way down (45-53%)
2) DME commanding big throttle closures 3500-4200 rpm
3) Short term trims are significantly different from each other at higher rpms
4) Timing corrections on 5 out of 6 cylinders
5) Bank 1 AFR behavior after throttle closure suggests O2 sensor on way out
6) Around where the HPFP crashes the log shows torque limiter value of 8 which I believe means downshift engine braking. Not sure what's going on there.

[thormessiah]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Battery Neg cable:
Randomly replacing things is a generally frustrating enterprise. Out of all the possible places for electrical problems to occur, why choose the negative cable? Something you didn't share?

Log:
In short, awful.
1) You don't hold your accelerator pedal all the way down (45-53%)
2) DME commanding big throttle closures 3500-4200 rpm
3) Short term trims are significantly different from each other at higher rpms
4) Timing corrections on 5 out of 6 cylinders
5) Bank 1 AFR behavior after throttle closure suggests O2 sensor on way out
6) Around where the HPFP crashes the log shows torque limiter value of 8 which I believe means downshift engine braking. Not sure what's going on there.

I have had the IBS missing message for a minute, so I didn’t want to believe I purchased 3 bad alternators in a row. Besides the obvious codes, what should I start replacing to fix up the logs a little bit?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by thormessiah

I have had the IBS missing message for a minute, so I didn’t want to believe I purchased 3 bad alternators in a row. Besides the obvious codes, what should I start replacing to fix up the logs a little bit?

"IBS missing" doesn't necessarily mean there is anything wrong with the negative cable. All it means is that there is no communication from the IBS on the BSD bus. But you have other communication errors on the BSD bus, as I explained earlier. So the BSD bus problem could originate in any of its components; alternator, water pump, oil level sensor, IBS.

You have replaced 3 alternators? Why did you do that? What were the error codes associated with those "failures"? Frankly, the odds of three alternators going bad are just about zero and your repeated alternator "problems" are most likely something else.

All that said, BSD bus failure would not crash your HPFP. You've got multiple problems.

Also, I'm sorry if I wasn't clear, your logs need way more than a "little bit" of fixing. You're going to have to be methodical and disciplined about diagnosing things. Honestly, I'd recommend finding a good indy shop.

[thormessiah]

Originally Posted by dpaul

"IBS missing" doesn't necessarily mean there is anything wrong with the negative cable. All it means is that there is no communication from the IBS on the BSD bus. But you have other communication errors on the BSD bus, as I explained earlier. So the BSD bus problem could originate in any of its components; alternator, water pump, oil level sensor, IBS.

You have replaced 3 alternators? Why did you do that? What were the error codes associated with those "failures"? Frankly, the odds of three alternators going bad are just about zero and your repeated alternator "problems" are most likely something else.

All that said, BSD bus failure would not crash your HPFP. You've got multiple problems.

Also, I'm sorry if I wasn't clear, your logs need way more than a "little bit" of fixing. You're going to have to be methodical and disciplined about diagnosing things. Honestly, I'd recommend finding a good indy shop.

First 2 were most definitely bad, AC-Delco makes some poor quality items. The third was a remanufactured Bosch one, paired with a new battery, but I still kept getting the IBS MISSING code, with its respective fuel pump and electric cooling shutoff codes. I searched around for a bit, and found some threads about the battery terminal cable possibly going bad so that was worth a shot in my opinion, seeing as how it was only $40. Now if it was your car, where would you start? I already have a shop but I always like to drop the car off knowing what has to be fixed as opposed to letting them run up a check.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by thormessiah

First 2 were most definitely bad, AC-Delco makes some poor quality items. The third was a remanufactured Bosch one, paired with a new battery, but I still kept getting the IBS MISSING code, with its respective fuel pump and electric cooling shutoff codes. I searched around for a bit, and found some threads about the battery terminal cable possibly going bad so that was worth a shot in my opinion, seeing as how it was only $40. Now if it was your car, where would you start? I already have a shop but I always like to drop the car off knowing what has to be fixed as opposed to letting them run up a check.

There is almost no question you have something interfering with communication on the BSD bus. My point is why pick on "IBS missing"? It could be any of the other components. I'd disconnect components on the BSD bus one at a time and see if the communication codes for the other bus components are eliminated. That might tell me which component was flaky and was bringing down the bus. Then I'd replace that component. Of course it could be a wiring problem, not a component problem, which could be difficult to trace. This stuff is not easy.

But as I said, a bad BSD bus won't bring down the fuel pump, give you long cranks or light up your dash and cause the car to stop running.

The more pressing issue is why did your HPFP suddenly go away as it did in your log. Was that related to a more general electrical problem or was it simply an HPFP or rail pressure sensor problem? There aren't any other codes suggesting general electrical issues other than relating to the BSD and there aren't any codes relating to fueling.

You did report a problem with long cranks, which I assume means you press the start button and the engine cranks but doesn't start for a period of at least several seconds. If so, that is consistent with an HPFP problem. However, HPFPs don't usually fail stone dead the way yours did then act find the next minute. They usually degrade i.e. take longer and longer to get up to pressure and/or struggle to maintain normal pressures.

So I really don't know what's up with you car. It's going to require a lot of thinking.

I'd read the freeze frame associated with the 29E7 code and see what voltage was being measured when the code was set. You can even set the MHD to record it