Dealing with the alphabet soup EGR/DPF/SCR

dmanb2b · 01-28-2018, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nicklockard

Sorry for bumping this sub-topic ages later, but I'm considering wrapping my dp and cat (have the iaknown full exhaust in) in order to help the catalyst light off sooner and reduce smell. The smell is pretty bad. Anyone done this? Impressions? Did it help any?

It can be done but not sure it will help much. Compare it to an uncatted 335d, that will help you appreciate how much less it smells. A catted DP will still smell, but a lot less pungent than uncatted, except at start-up. No off-road set-up is odorless, unfortunately.

BB_cuda · 01-31-2018, 02:10 PM

Nick, be quantitative here. Get EGT1 readings for your current baseline. I would fully warm car and then allow EGT1 to settle down but still running (idling in driveway i guess). Do the non scientific smell test. Then, repeat after installing the wrap. The weakness here being how well do you remember the earlier smell. At least you can measure that EGT1 in both cases after returning from warm up drive. I point to EGT 1 is it is the precat temp.

nicklockard · 02-03-2018, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Nick, be quantitative here. Get EGT1 readings for your current baseline. I would fully warm car and then allow EGT1 to settle down but still running (idling in driveway i guess). Do the non scientific smell test. Then, repeat after installing the wrap. The weakness here being how well do you remember the earlier smell. At least you can measure that EGT1 in both cases after returning from warm up drive. I point to EGT 1 is it is the precat temp.

Yep.

Waiting for DDE to return in mail while I finish my WM install. But, I did wrap the pipe with 2" at 75% overlap. The wrap was $18 on Amazon for 2 rolls, so I figured it was worth a try.

Prior to this, I'd say the unburnt hydrocarbons were an 8 on a 1-10 scale for unpleasantness. But, that was on an ABC deleted car without appropriate tune. For some unknown reasons, my car drove home with an all new exhaust, fullly ABC deleted, and no limp mode resulted.

I will report the smell once everything is back together, by adding to this post.

Summary:

Car was illiterate with iaknown's turbo-back exhaust with new oxidation catalyst, but with stage I tune.
Smell was 8 of 10 for unpleasant unburnt hydrocarbons
Prior to abc delete, EGT's were always 190C idling, never more than 4xxC driving. No EGT data available post-delete, yet.

1dalocksmith · 02-23-2018, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sour335d

When I performed this procedure like 2 weeks ago I managed to get both pieces out at the same time. The way the the stud from the mount goes into the bracket makes it difficult to remove one and not the other. I'm sure there's probably a way, but i don't see the point since both pieces need to come out in order to remove the DPF and ream out the wastegate.

I would suggest loosening the nut that goes on the top stud of the engine mount while the car is still on the ground. Then loosen all of the other bolts after the car has been lifted and the engine is securely supported. The removal and re-installation of these parts is by far the biggest headache when performing this job. Everything else is fairly smooth sailing.

I have read in a few posts that the wastegate needs to be reamed out because overboost?

Torqu3 · 02-24-2018, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1dalocksmith

I have read in a few posts that the wastegate needs to be reamed out because overboost?

Old information. That is no longer the case.

sunny_j · 05-28-2018, 03:52 PM

does anyone know what can be causing this rattling sound? it started a day after doing the egr, dpf, scr and urea tank delete.

it's slightly audible in park, goes away in neutral, in D I can hear it at idle and when accelerating to 2k rpm

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2bfpzvaq38...15127.mp4?dl=0

BB_cuda · 05-29-2018, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunny_j

does anyone know what can be causing this rattling sound? it started a day after doing the egr, dpf, scr and urea tank delete.

it's slightly audible in park, goes away in neutral, in D I can hear it at idle and when accelerating to 2k rpm

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2bfpzvaq38...15127.mp4?dl=0

Can't access your link.

sunny_j · 05-29-2018, 03:43 PM

Updated the link

sunny_j · 05-30-2018, 12:15 PM

here's another video from this morning

https://www.dropbox.com/s/prtba4plom...5127b.mp4?dl=0

Mik325tds · 06-23-2018, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunny_j

here's another video from this morning

https://www.dropbox.com/s/prtba4plom...5127b.mp4?dl=0

Hard to say. Is it audible in the cabin only? How about the stabilizer bars over the engine? Is the central nut tight?
Anyway, you should clip the shroud of the steering column module shut.

sunny_j · 06-23-2018, 03:55 PM

sorry forgot to update this thread. solved the problem by reseating the downpipe, O2 sensor and EGT sensor.

it was only audible in the cabin as the engine noise drowned out the rattle sound outside.

Red eyed M3 · 08-02-2018, 07:52 PM

Maybe i missed it in this thread but after EGR delete install there is an extremely strong diesel smell in the car. Mechanic said it was ( Delete kit steel hose to cylinder head. This one is rubber needs to be steel) . Is this even right. I had the local muffler shop install the new down pipe and i installed the egr delete kit. But i dont remember any steel lines that needed to be installed? He replaced the hoses with new ones and smell was gone for awhile but is back again as they have burned through again i was told. This is my GF's car and i am away from home working. Any info would be great so i can pass this along and it can get fixed right ??

BB_cuda · 08-04-2018, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red eyed M3

Maybe i missed it in this thread but after EGR delete install there is an extremely strong diesel smell in the car. Mechanic said it was ( Delete kit steel hose to cylinder head. This one is rubber needs to be steel) . Is this even right. I had the local muffler shop install the new down pipe and i installed the egr delete kit. But i dont remember any steel lines that needed to be installed? He replaced the hoses with new ones and smell was gone for awhile but is back again as they have burned through again i was told. This is my GF's car and i am away from home working. Any info would be great so i can pass this along and it can get fixed right ??

I think you are talking about the EGR cooler being deleted. There is (or was) a correguated steel inlet the the EGR cooler's heat exchanger. People normally cap off the outlet on the exhaust manifold. Plugs are sold by a few vendors. The plug has a 2 bolt flange that bolts into the exhaust manifold. People use a fake EGR valve and its basically a tube with flanges on front and aft faces. A picture of what you're talking about would help.

Red eyed M3 · 08-04-2018, 01:12 PM

I got that capped off and made sure it wasnt leaking.

The mechanic gave her a rubber hose that looked braided on the outside. I believe it comes off the DPF. I think it might just need to be removed and capped off. Going to try and get home soon to see if i can actually see where the hose is.

sunny_j · 08-04-2018, 04:53 PM

Can you post pics? Might be easier to diagnose

DirtyLaundry · 09-17-2018, 02:11 PM

Does anyone know of any progress being made on a tune setting all OBDII readiness codes with deletes? I know about some tunes setting "not applicable".

MDeeJs · 09-20-2018, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyLaundry

Does anyone know of any progress being made on a tune setting all OBDII readiness codes with deletes? I know about some tunes setting "not applicable".

you need to talk with Dmitriy from DUDMD, he has what you need

edi750 · 12-13-2018, 10:34 AM

Maybe somebody can help me out. I did a dpf and egr delete on my 09 335D. A downpipe was installed and the egr replaced with a race pipe. The shop did a stage 2 tune and all is well with the exception of the msg the car displays on the dash. I am getting the "no start" error due to no def in the system. The car runs fine and this error has been there for a few weeks.

I asked the shop who did the tune and he doesn't seem to know how to make the error msg go away. He contacted the company who remote tuned it (OE Tuning) but I haven't heard anything yet.

Has anyone experienced this and or knows how to make this msg go away? Just to add, the car still has the scr tank in the back.

RL18 · 12-13-2018, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edi750

Maybe somebody can help me out. I did a dpf and egr delete on my 09 335D. A downpipe was installed and the egr replaced with a race pipe. The shop did a stage 2 tune and all is well with the exception of the msg the car displays on the dash. I am getting the "no start" error due to no def in the system. The car runs fine and this error has been there for a few weeks.

I asked the shop who did the tune and he doesn't seem to know how to make the error msg go away. He contacted the company who remote tuned it (OE Tuning) but I haven't heard anything yet.

Has anyone experienced this and or knows how to make this msg go away? Just to add, the car still has the scr tank in the back.

Fill it with whatever won't freeze in there. Keep in mind it's probably squirting on the ground so something not flammable is preferable. Atleast until you get it coded out

Darkswarmer · 12-13-2018, 05:40 PM

Hey all, apologize for the mammoth post

I just bought my 2011 335d about 3k miles ago, it currently has 103,000 miles. This car is my first BMW and is a DREAM to drive (pics attached for attention). My wife is already sick of me talking about how much I love it. Upgraded from a Mazda 6s which is now kicked out of the garage to the street.
No wonder there's such a cool community around these cars

. They are amazing. I'm here in the Salt Lake area. Reading this entire thread and related/linked to material I'm left with some more questions. Conscious that many of the posts in this thread are years old and that some of the vendors/tuners mentioned may no longer be offering services/products so here's some context before my questions about Alphabet Soup deleting:

Car recently threw these codes along with the big scary "Engine Malfunction, possible to continue" dash warning:

P0101 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance
P0112 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low

After doing some googling and reading on this forum, I bought and replaced the MAF and Air filter. Cleared the codes, drove it and now the cars' "Service Engine Soon" light is on. The above codes are gone but it is now throwing these new codes

:

P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P009A - Intake Air Temperature / Ambient Air Temperature Correlation

I have no perceptible difference in funness, drivability and fastness. I f*cking love driving this car. Just has the SES light.

Whiiich is why I've spent a few hours reading everything on this thread about the various stages of deleting that's been discussed here. I've read the entire thread including the attached PDFs as well as some related delete threads. I'm really really wanting to do this, guys. Utah County doesn't check diesel emissions so it shouldn't affect registering it every year unless I move to a county that does emissions checks. I still have my old car and am not planning to sell it so I still have a spare car to use while working on my 335d— I'd have no time constraints

I'll post my questions numbered so you can pick and choose which to answer

Thank you in advance for any information you can give me, I'm totally blown away by the friendliness and welcoming feeling this community has. Glad to join the family!

Questions after reading this whole thread and a few others:

1. Is there a reasonably practical way to preserve the ability to go back to stock after a full alphabet soup delete (say I move to an area that requires diesel emissions like Las Vegas)?

2. If not, which parts COULD be deleted and then returned to stock? After reading around it seems only the EGR delete is reversible w/out spending dumb amounts of money? Is it too expensive to just buy a straight exhaust pipe from the downpipe out to the muffler Have a muffler shop custom build one in (no idea the ballpark price of something like that)?

3. I assume you can tune back to factory settings? (I may be moving in the next 5 years to Vegas, we have family there)

4. Is a CBU cleaning recommended before/after doing any of the deletes mentioned on this thread? Based on the codes my car is throwing it may need that

5. Would any kind soul be available for me to text/email questions if I attempt it and get stuck? I'm not afraid to turn a wrench; I removed the dash from my Mazda before to get to the evaporator core and replaced all its motor mounts while on jack stands which I hear "can be done" with the DEF delete on the 335d— but I don't want to start this and get stuck and have no one there to help because this thread started almost four years ago

6. Is there a good place to read up on the differences between the different stage tunes? In your opinion whats the best tune that doesn't decrease life expectancy of any of the parts but still gives more power and fun?

7. How have people's cars been holding up after the deletes and tunes? Those that have done it years ago— do you still have your car and has it had other issues related? How has it aged after the delete & tune?

8. Do you recommend four jack stands or just two (I'd have to go the jackstand route for deleting anything)

9. Is a transmission flush + tune required or just recommended when doing a delete?

10. How much did you guys spend— out the door— on your deletes? How much for each part and tool you bought, how much for the tune you got, etc. Rough estimates are totally fine, I just want an idea. I've got loads of time and a spare car so I'm not concerned about taking it slow and learning a ton along the way— But I want to feel out how much I'd save VS just eating the bill at the nearest BMW center and fixing the stock systems. I'll drop off the car for a quote from BMW tomorrow.

Again thank you in advance guys I'm anxious to get the codes resolved one way or another as this car is a billion times more fun to drive than my mazda 6. No offense Mazda. Cheers!

ground_zero · 12-31-2018, 05:24 PM

I have very similar problems with mine, I just replaced my air filter and made a big difference with a perceivable performance boost (Which I was told was going to be insignificant) with the engine running smoother, This is a dry filter I bought on Amazon, Still need to replace the MAF sensor, The cord looks like it took a beating.

P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
-This is likely due to carbon build up inside the EGR, Take it for long drive and it will cure it for a while, I still want to clean mine but I'm intimidated by the amount of work to be done without having a decent place to work on it (Outside in the cold weather)
P009A - Intake Air Temperature / Ambient Air Temperature Correlation

Thermostat going out?

I think most Mechanics quote ~3000 for the full job, I think you could cut that by half or more if you DIY it, I'm taking it to the mechanic as soon as I have some cash.

Darkswarmer · 12-31-2018, 06:45 PM

Thanks for the reply. I’ve decided not to do the soup delete for now, because my county’s laws are changing and will be checking diesel emissions starting in 2019 :/

I’ve also decided to buy a media blaster (I’ve always wanted one) and the wand and adapter to do the CBU myself. Will take pics and post.

01-31-2018, 02:10 PM	#310
BB_cuda Brigadier General 776 Rep 3,559 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Msport, 2013 X5D Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Clear Lake, Texas iTrader: (0)	Nick, be quantitative here. Get EGT1 readings for your current baseline. I would fully warm car and then allow EGT1 to settle down but still running (idling in driveway i guess). Do the non scientific smell test. Then, repeat after installing the wrap. The weakness here being how well do you remember the earlier smell. At least you can measure that EGT1 in both cases after returning from warm up drive. I point to EGT 1 is it is the precat temp.
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05-28-2018, 03:52 PM	#314
sunny_j Lieutenant 217 Rep 433 Posts Drives: 2012 X5d Join Date: May 2012 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia iTrader: (0)	does anyone know what can be causing this rattling sound? it started a day after doing the egr, dpf, scr and urea tank delete. it's slightly audible in park, goes away in neutral, in D I can hear it at idle and when accelerating to 2k rpm https://www.dropbox.com/s/2bfpzvaq38...15127.mp4?dl=0 __________________ 2012 X5d \| Deleted & BRR Tuned \| DWR TCU Tune \| 10.25" Android 8.1 Screen Build Thread https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1529213 Last edited by sunny_j; 05-29-2018 at 03:47 PM..
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05-29-2018, 03:43 PM	#316
sunny_j Lieutenant 217 Rep 433 Posts Drives: 2012 X5d Join Date: May 2012 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia iTrader: (0)	Updated the link
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05-30-2018, 12:15 PM	#317
sunny_j Lieutenant 217 Rep 433 Posts Drives: 2012 X5d Join Date: May 2012 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia iTrader: (0)	here's another video from this morning https://www.dropbox.com/s/prtba4plom...5127b.mp4?dl=0 __________________ 2012 X5d \| Deleted & BRR Tuned \| DWR TCU Tune \| 10.25" Android 8.1 Screen Build Thread https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1529213
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06-23-2018, 03:55 PM	#319
sunny_j Lieutenant 217 Rep 433 Posts Drives: 2012 X5d Join Date: May 2012 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia iTrader: (0)	sorry forgot to update this thread. solved the problem by reseating the downpipe, O2 sensor and EGT sensor. it was only audible in the cabin as the engine noise drowned out the rattle sound outside. __________________ 2012 X5d \| Deleted & BRR Tuned \| DWR TCU Tune \| 10.25" Android 8.1 Screen Build Thread https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1529213
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08-02-2018, 07:52 PM	#320
Red eyed M3 New Member 0 Rep 6 Posts Drives: 08 M3 E93 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: SC iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW M3 E93 [0.00] 2008 BMW M3 E93 [0.00]	Maybe i missed it in this thread but after EGR delete install there is an extremely strong diesel smell in the car. Mechanic said it was ( Delete kit steel hose to cylinder head. This one is rubber needs to be steel) . Is this even right. I had the local muffler shop install the new down pipe and i installed the egr delete kit. But i dont remember any steel lines that needed to be installed? He replaced the hoses with new ones and smell was gone for awhile but is back again as they have burned through again i was told. This is my GF's car and i am away from home working. Any info would be great so i can pass this along and it can get fixed right ??
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08-04-2018, 01:12 PM	#322
Red eyed M3 New Member 0 Rep 6 Posts Drives: 08 M3 E93 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: SC iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW M3 E93 [0.00] 2008 BMW M3 E93 [0.00]	I got that capped off and made sure it wasnt leaking. The mechanic gave her a rubber hose that looked braided on the outside. I believe it comes off the DPF. I think it might just need to be removed and capped off. Going to try and get home soon to see if i can actually see where the hose is.
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08-04-2018, 04:53 PM	#323
sunny_j Lieutenant 217 Rep 433 Posts Drives: 2012 X5d Join Date: May 2012 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia iTrader: (0)	Can you post pics? Might be easier to diagnose __________________ 2012 X5d \| Deleted & BRR Tuned \| DWR TCU Tune \| 10.25" Android 8.1 Screen Build Thread https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1529213
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09-17-2018, 02:11 PM	#324
DirtyLaundry New Member 0 Rep 5 Posts Drives: 2011 335d Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: SoCal iTrader: (0)	Does anyone know of any progress being made on a tune setting all OBDII readiness codes with deletes? I know about some tunes setting "not applicable".
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12-13-2018, 10:34 AM	#326
edi750 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	Maybe somebody can help me out. I did a dpf and egr delete on my 09 335D. A downpipe was installed and the egr replaced with a race pipe. The shop did a stage 2 tune and all is well with the exception of the msg the car displays on the dash. I am getting the "no start" error due to no def in the system. The car runs fine and this error has been there for a few weeks. I asked the shop who did the tune and he doesn't seem to know how to make the error msg go away. He contacted the company who remote tuned it (OE Tuning) but I haven't heard anything yet. Has anyone experienced this and or knows how to make this msg go away? Just to add, the car still has the scr tank in the back.
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12-13-2018, 05:40 PM	#328
Darkswarmer Enlisted Member 4 Rep 31 Posts Drives: 2011 335d Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Salt Lake City iTrader: (0)	Excited to join this community of 335d owners! Hey all, apologize for the mammoth post I just bought my 2011 335d about 3k miles ago, it currently has 103,000 miles. This car is my first BMW and is a DREAM to drive (pics attached for attention). My wife is already sick of me talking about how much I love it. Upgraded from a Mazda 6s which is now kicked out of the garage to the street. No wonder there's such a cool community around these cars . They are amazing. I'm here in the Salt Lake area. Reading this entire thread and related/linked to material I'm left with some more questions. Conscious that many of the posts in this thread are years old and that some of the vendors/tuners mentioned may no longer be offering services/products so here's some context before my questions about Alphabet Soup deleting: Car recently threw these codes along with the big scary "Engine Malfunction, possible to continue" dash warning: P0101 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance P0112 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low After doing some googling and reading on this forum, I bought and replaced the MAF and Air filter. Cleared the codes, drove it and now the cars' "Service Engine Soon" light is on. The above codes are gone but it is now throwing these new codes : P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected P009A - Intake Air Temperature / Ambient Air Temperature Correlation I have no perceptible difference in funness, drivability and fastness. I f*cking love driving this car. Just has the SES light. Whiiich is why I've spent a few hours reading everything on this thread about the various stages of deleting that's been discussed here. I've read the entire thread including the attached PDFs as well as some related delete threads. I'm really really wanting to do this, guys. Utah County doesn't check diesel emissions so it shouldn't affect registering it every year unless I move to a county that does emissions checks. I still have my old car and am not planning to sell it so I still have a spare car to use while working on my 335d— I'd have no time constraints I'll post my questions numbered so you can pick and choose which to answer Thank you in advance for any information you can give me, I'm totally blown away by the friendliness and welcoming feeling this community has. Glad to join the family! Questions after reading this whole thread and a few others: 1. Is there a reasonably practical way to preserve the ability to go back to stock after a full alphabet soup delete (say I move to an area that requires diesel emissions like Las Vegas)? 2. If not, which parts COULD be deleted and then returned to stock? After reading around it seems only the EGR delete is reversible w/out spending dumb amounts of money? Is it too expensive to just buy a straight exhaust pipe from the downpipe out to the muffler Have a muffler shop custom build one in (no idea the ballpark price of something like that)? 3. I assume you can tune back to factory settings? (I may be moving in the next 5 years to Vegas, we have family there) 4. Is a CBU cleaning recommended before/after doing any of the deletes mentioned on this thread? Based on the codes my car is throwing it may need that 5. Would any kind soul be available for me to text/email questions if I attempt it and get stuck? I'm not afraid to turn a wrench; I removed the dash from my Mazda before to get to the evaporator core and replaced all its motor mounts while on jack stands which I hear "can be done" with the DEF delete on the 335d— but I don't want to start this and get stuck and have no one there to help because this thread started almost four years ago 6. Is there a good place to read up on the differences between the different stage tunes? In your opinion whats the best tune that doesn't decrease life expectancy of any of the parts but still gives more power and fun? 7. How have people's cars been holding up after the deletes and tunes? Those that have done it years ago— do you still have your car and has it had other issues related? How has it aged after the delete & tune? 8. Do you recommend four jack stands or just two (I'd have to go the jackstand route for deleting anything) 9. Is a transmission flush + tune required or just recommended when doing a delete? 10. How much did you guys spend— out the door— on your deletes? How much for each part and tool you bought, how much for the tune you got, etc. Rough estimates are totally fine, I just want an idea. I've got loads of time and a spare car so I'm not concerned about taking it slow and learning a ton along the way— But I want to feel out how much I'd save VS just eating the bill at the nearest BMW center and fixing the stock systems. I'll drop off the car for a quote from BMW tomorrow. Again thank you in advance guys I'm anxious to get the codes resolved one way or another as this car is a billion times more fun to drive than my mazda 6. No offense Mazda. Cheers! Attached Images
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12-31-2018, 05:24 PM	#329
ground_zero Private 9 Rep 52 Posts Drives: 2017 BMW 330i Sport-line Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Oklahoma iTrader: (0) Garage List 2019 Kia Stinger GT [0.00] 2017 BMW 330i [10.00]	I have very similar problems with mine, I just replaced my air filter and made a big difference with a perceivable performance boost (Which I was told was going to be insignificant) with the engine running smoother, This is a dry filter I bought on Amazon, Still need to replace the MAF sensor, The cord looks like it took a beating. P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected -This is likely due to carbon build up inside the EGR, Take it for long drive and it will cure it for a while, I still want to clean mine but I'm intimidated by the amount of work to be done without having a decent place to work on it (Outside in the cold weather) P009A - Intake Air Temperature / Ambient Air Temperature Correlation Thermostat going out? I think most Mechanics quote ~3000 for the full job, I think you could cut that by half or more if you DIY it, I'm taking it to the mechanic as soon as I have some cash.
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12-31-2018, 06:45 PM	#330
Darkswarmer Enlisted Member 4 Rep 31 Posts Drives: 2011 335d Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Salt Lake City iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the reply. I’ve decided not to do the soup delete for now, because my county’s laws are changing and will be checking diesel emissions starting in 2019 :/ I’ve also decided to buy a media blaster (I’ve always wanted one) and the wand and adapter to do the CBU myself. Will take pics and post.
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