[KnighTT]

I finally just dedicated the weekend to getting the last items off the list taken care of.

I fabricated a bracket to mount the PS reservoir. It actually turned out perfect as far as function goes. Tucks the res in place and out of the way. Lines mounted fine. I'll yank it back out later and paint it black.




Lines to the 335d coolant res were straight forward. I would say until the Turner coolant res is available, this is a perfectly solid solution.



I got everything mounted up and started getting it all ready to fire up.

- Pulled the fuel pump fuse.
- Hooked back up the battery and put on the trickle charger.
- Filled up the coolant system with water and ran the coolant bleed procedure with the pump.
- I got about 3.5 containers of DCT fluid in the transmission. I need to watch a few more videos on the procedure so we are safe for break in but the trans was drained to completely empty.
- Filled up the engine with generic conventional 5W-30 and added the Lucas ZDDP additive. This oil will only run the initial 20 minutes and then I'll drain, swap oil filter, inspect oil filter, and fill with the Driven BR30 break in oil for the next 300-500miles.
- I got the exhaust mufflers mounted up and of course found that everything was off. Had to loosen everything down to the downpipes and got it to 90% acceptable. I way have to yank off the pass side muffler and bend the hanger so it sits a 1/2" lower at the tip.

Side note, I was really thinking the 4" tips were going to be too much or stick out too much. They actually are far more subtle than expected.

Around 7 last night I was able to yank the spark plugs out and go ahead and let the engine crank 6 times so it could prime everything. Strongest starter I have ever come across. Put everything back in and around 9 last night I gave it a go....

It took about 5 seconds but she fired right up.



Now I only let it run for about 10 seconds as it was too late to run it up for 20 minutes as it is pretty loud. I'm going to get a few 4" exhaust tubes and run them down the side of the house, close the garage most of the way, and do a full 20min varying 2-3kRPM break in without it being too loud for the neighborhood.

A few notes from fire up.
- Exh was loud but not crazy.
- When you don't have any fuel in the lines the HPFP buzzes like crazy. Sounds like an electrical short so I was a bit paranoid for a bit.
- Coolant system easily almost takes 2 gallons of fluid when fully empty from a build.
- I didn't hear any crazy noises when it started up.
- Did hear some pretty serios turbo spool though even just at idle.

I have fully rebuilt about 5 engines now. Every time you start one up fresh it really is nerve racking. Especially this one as it comes from 2 years and a full build out. A build out that cost much more than just a rebuild.

Next I need to run it through a full 20min break in but that is as far as that can go. I need to get the new bumper painted, get some trim pieces for bumper, and work on some odds and ends so I can drive it on the road. Plus I need to go ahead and get it tagged.

I think I'm going to send in the new bumper as well as the hood to get painted. The hood has far too many rock chips and would look terrible next to a fresh bumper. Going to source some new black roundels as well.

I decided to go ahead and redo the 313 wheels in a dark bronze. That paint is on the way.

All in all, I'm feeling good. There is still a lot of work to do but it is mostly buying things and installing them on the body, refreshing the interior, getting paperwork sorted, and then breaking it in gently for a few hundred miles.

Once she is back on the road I can start looking for a few styling points I'd like to add. Most likely going to keep it subtle. AK style lip, side skirts, and the rear bumper wings. I'll also get a rear CF spoiler in a higher kick.

[TyroneShoelaces]

I just finally started trying to relocate the coolant tank. It's all very frustrating. I realized my charge pipe won't work with the 335D tank as in the back of my mind I assumed I would do. The 335d coolant tank was available prime on Amazon so I figured I could leave that till last minute. That Turner tank is soooo expensive.

[NoGuru]

For the DCT, you will need to start it and cycle through the gears then stop, crack the filler and add fluid. I had to do this at least 4 times, and I only changed the fluid.

Glad you got it fired up. Maybe you can do a walk around video?

[KnighTT]

I just purchased an installer and pack for ISTA and am getting that loaded on a laptop today. My plan is to fill the DCT as much as I can during break in and then go through the ISTA procedure which has proven to get another half bottle or so in the DCT after fill.

I've never used ISTA before so this will be a learning experience. I'll also have to use that for a proper brake bleed as I am going to yank my calipers and refresh them when I put the new rotors and pads on. I think I may also go ahead and put in new brake lines at the same time. No need to do that procedure twice. Also.....new brake fluid.

I did order a few things yesterday.

- Wheel spacers/lugs front and rear. 12mm and 15mm. These are for the 313 wheels.
- A HDPE full lip kit front to rear from Flow Designs out of Australia. I was always interested in the full CF lip kit, AK style, but at the end of the day a CF front lip always gets a little beat up and doesn't last long. An HDPE lip will take a beating and has a more defined use on the track that just for looks. Plus I think this one comes with a 10yr warranty.
- M3 style mirror caps in gloss black.
- Leather recoloring to refresh the cream beige interior pieces that need it.
- Black/red BMW roundel kit for the entire car.
- Dark bronze paint should be here this week.
- Spray Max 2K matte clear paint to finish the wheels in.

Here is a video on the Flow Design kit:

Today I am going to reach out and get an estimate on painting the new bumper and get the hood repainted. That needs to be done before I can get back on the road.

[KnighTT]

BTW, I have decided to keep the cream beige interior. My plan from the start was to swap the black interior out of the 335xi but the interior in the 335is has grown on me. I just can't seem to sell myself on a black on black when the interior is just that. All black and no real flare. The 335is interior is also in outstanding condition. All I need to do is refresh the color on the armrest and driver seat bolster and it'll basically look like new.

Plus, the black and cream beige build on my 335is puts it at 1 of 18 in total production. I'd like to leave that in place.

I'm going to add a few highlights to the interior over time. Just some hints of red. I think that will give it more of a sports car feel then just the luxury tone.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

I just purchased an installer and pack for ISTA and am getting that loaded on a laptop today. My plan is to fill the DCT as much as I can during break in and then go through the ISTA procedure which has proven to get another half bottle or so in the DCT after fill.

I've never used ISTA before so this will be a learning experience. I'll also have to use that for a proper brake bleed as I am going to yank my calipers and refresh them when I put the new rotors and pads on. I think I may also go ahead and put in new brake lines at the same time. No need to do that procedure twice. Also.....new brake fluid.

I did order a few things yesterday.

- Wheel spacers/lugs front and rear. 12mm and 15mm. These are for the 313 wheels.
- A HDPE full lip kit front to rear from Flow Designs out of Australia. I was always interested in the full CF lip kit, AK style, but at the end of the day a CF front lip always gets a little beat up and doesn't last long. An HDPE lip will take a beating and has a more defined use on the track that just for looks. Plus I think this one comes with a 10yr warranty.
- M3 style mirror caps in gloss black.
- Leather recoloring to refresh the cream beige interior pieces that need it.
- Black/red BMW roundel kit for the entire car.
- Dark bronze paint should be here this week.
- Spray Max 2K matte clear paint to finish the wheels in.

Here is a video on the Flow Design kit:

Today I am going to reach out and get an estimate on painting the new bumper and get the hood repainted. That needs to be done before I can get back on the road.

Did not expect that accent!

The CF lip kit all around + rear bumper insert is semi expensive. Especially as it is just for looks. I have it and it looks great, but definitely pricey I think it was $1500 in total not installed(I did it myself). My 1st CF lip was an original Akrym that was $1200. Lasted 5 years and then I ran over something in Boston and it was destroyed. Bought the knock off which fits fine for $500.

I don't trust those weird winglets that are adjustable. Unless there is a way to fix them in place? They seem useless and they will just cause more drag.

FWIW the color roundels look really cheap to me. If you like them get them, but in person they look...off, if that makes sense. Just very obviously aftermarket. I like the stock roundel, looks classy.

As far as the 10 year warranty on the lip I assume that is just from manufacturer's defects? I can't imagine it covers you hitting things with it.

[NoGuru]

I have the Arkym in front and it was about $500 but it has a few rock marks in it but its made it years so far and held at 160 mph.

I agree with Togie on the roundels. I did the aftermarket on my E46 but they fade quick and look off.
I do OEM roundels since they don't fade.

If you do keep the aftermarket ones, plan on changing them about 1once a year.

[KnighTT]

Alright, so I ran the car up for a few minutes. I still need to do the full 20min break in.

Flashed the car to Stg 0 on MHD and selected the 3.5 TMAP option and that I had aftermarket DP's.

Car seems to sound alright but it is not buttery smooth by a long shot. I did find out the injector values were way off so I used ProTool to code the right values in.

I am doing some research but I did get these error codes the last time I fired it up.

2A2B - DMW Mixture control
2A2C - DME: Mixture control 2
2ABC - DME: Boost-pressure sensor, electric
2ABD - DME: Boost-pressure sensor, overrun
2D2E - DME: Throttle-valve angle - intake-manifold vacuum, correlation.
2FA3 - DME: No coding (I hear this doesn't go away. May be due to it being flashed with a tune. Doesn't actually effect anything?)
3100 - DME: Boost-pressure, deactivation.

With some research, I am wondering if the 3.4TMAP I purchased isn't really a 3.5. I had to look long and HARD to kind of get it to tell me the part number was for an N20. I'm starting to wonder if it's not the real thing. I'm going to take it off and post a picture for confirmation. If I've got to replace it, so be it.

I did flip the wiring pinout on the plug so it would work right.

[KnighTT]

I also have an issue with my headlights. I have some spare time, so I am starting to look over other things.

OK, so when I purchased the vehicle I noticed the driver side halo lights weren't on. That lens also had condensation. I cracked it open and found that the LED drivers had some corrosion. So I figured some water had been sitting in there for a while and maybe killed the drivers. There is also some corrosion on the adaptive motor. Not a lot.

So today I took the drivers from the known good lens and swapped them in the damaged one. I plugged it in and the halo lights still didn't turn on. I did this while the ignition was on, and even tried with the car running for a moment. Nada.

So, I then put the drivers back in the known good lens and now that lens doesn't illuminate the halo rings either....

??

I now have both plugged in. It does sound like the adaptive lens motors are working. I can hear them both adjust. All the other lights seem to be OK.

But now both of them have no halo ring illumination. These are the LCI headlights with the LED drivers for each ring. I do not want to just start buying LED drivers to test, as they are $$$$, and now I have no idea why the pass side now doesn't work.

I did make sure DRL was activated in vehicle settings on the iDrive.

[KnighTT]

When I try to look up this part number it doesn't really show me much outside it was for a F10/F80.

It also doesn't come up in FCP or ECS.

I'm guessing it is NOT a 3.5 TMAP....

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

When I try to look up this part number it doesn't really show me much outside it was for a F10/F80.

It also doesn't come up in FCP or ECS.

I'm guessing it is NOT a 3.5 TMAP....

Back in the day there were knock offs that would not work right but look like OEM TMAPS. You can buy one cheap from burger or fcp: https://burgertuning.com/products/jb...r-tmap-adapter

OEM BMW sensor part number: 13627843531

[KnighTT]

I went ahead and ordered the Continental 3.5 TMAP from ECS. $65.

I went back and verified that I rewired the plug the right way so I either have the wrong TMAP or it doesn't work right anymore.

At least now I'll know for sure I have the right part.

It'll just be another week before I can break it in. Leaves me some time to start looking into other issues.

[KnighTT]

Installed the new TMAP. Still doesn't look like the pictures, as I got a VDO sensor, but we'll see if I have any issues.

Reflashed with a stg0 and made sure everything looked good in options.

I ran it up for a few minutes and it sounded and felt good. I can feel a little rumble down low but all adaptations are rest and I'm sure this will never be butter smooth.

I'm only getting mixture control errors but no CEL.

Next is to finally run it up for 20min as soon as I can get a god time of day to not piss off the neighbors and my wife isn't working on the phone.

I'm feeling good.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Installed the new TMAP. Still doesn't look like the pictures, as I got a VDO sensor, but we'll see if I have any issues.

Reflashed with a stg0 and made sure everything looked good in options.

I ran it up for a few minutes and it sounded and felt good. I can feel a little rumble down low but all adaptations are rest and I'm sure this will never be butter smooth.

I'm only getting mixture control errors but no CEL.

Next is to finally run it up for 20min as soon as I can get a god time of day to not piss off the neighbors and my wife isn't working on the phone.

I'm feeling good.

Can you let it idle in the driveway or on the street for 20m and take it for a quick spin around?

I understand it may not be all buttoned up but 'shake down' test drives are crucial(as well as fun!)

Do you have a custom tune for it yet? If not, pick your tuner and load up a base map. Might as well be able to log and start the tuning process immediately.

[KnighTT]

This turned out alright. I'm going to have to keep an eye out on how the silicon inlets hold up being so close to the turbo manifolds and how the heat shield actually protects them.

I did notice during idle that I am at least not getting crazy rattles or vibrations. Hoping that remains. There are plenty of things that had questionable clearances. Like the exhaust midpipes.

[KnighTT]

HA! BMW is now making human beings call me to discuss the Takata recall I have yet to come in for. The 335xi has one but it has been laid up in the garage for almost 2 years.

I have literally had $100's of random, elaborate, ridiculous, packages, letters, mailers, gold plated envelopes, sent to me trying to get me to do it.

The last one basically was saying I'm going to kill myself if I don't bring it in.

Now Judie is calling me.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

The last one basically was saying I'm going to kill myself if I don't bring it in.

I think the President told me the same thing

[KnighTT]

Update:

I said screw it and ordered a LED angel eye kit from Bavgroup. Between the LED modules, the controller modules, and the FRM all being possibilities to replace, it was too much of a risk to trail and error what would fix it. All of these parts were looking at over $1,000 by the time I was done, at least.

At least with the Bav kit it will be a better setup, a brighter outcome, and externally driven. I'll just have to code out the angel eyes to get rid of the ding everyday for a bad light.

Working on getting the wheels restored and painted. I found this perfect dark bronze called rustic mist. I'm going to finish them in 2K matte clear when I get a few ready.




The brake calipers have some surface discoloration and rust tones so I am going to coat them in red to bring them back to new. I'll also drop the new pads and rotors on.

The plan for this weekend is to run up the 20min break in, do an oil change, and then prep the car for the body shop. I'm going to put the new bumper on without accessories and drive it down to the shop to do the bumper and hood.

Once that is out of the shop, we can get it out on the road and do a proper 2nd phase break in.

My hope is in the next 30 days the car will be able to drive whenever I want. I have some color match coating for the interior and leather so I am going to restore the interior to like new but I want to do that after the body hop and break in. No reason to get a pristine interior dirty.

[KnighTT]

Well I finally did the full 20minute break in while in the garage today. Smoked and stunk but nothing major popped up. Fingers crossed, nothing minor seemed to really pop up either.

Flashed to stg0 with the changes I've made(DPs, 3.5TMAP). It did 2-3K rpm just fine but a few times it really didn't like going back to idle. Even stalled a few times as soon as I let my foot off the gas.

No coolant or witnessed oil leaks. No oil burning smell. I did find a bit of oil on the turbo flange that sits between the hot and cold side. It didn't seem to be accumulating though. I also found a bit of oil coming down the side of the block, under the turbo shield, but it was black so it wasn't the new oil. Maybe just some wept out of something when the engine came to temp. Coolant got up to 230. Oil up to 240.

I'm going to keep an eye on the front turbo and see if one of the oil lines may be leaking at higher load(2k+rpm). It would suck if I had to get in there and replace an o-ring or gasket but it is pretty minor in the scheme of breaking in a built motor.

I let it cool down and did a full oil change. Now it's got the Driven BR30 break in oil in there. I realized I ordered 12qts of this stuff. I'm not sure why....so I figure I'll order a couple more and do a full 3 phase break in with the BR30.



I'm working on the wheels now. I have to admit, this color may be exactly what I'm looking for. Trick is this color is becoming harder to find, which may mean they are discontinuing it. I had to order another three cans, just in case 4 wasn't enough, from Menards out west. I figure one more can to complete the job and a couple to shelf if I need to touch up or redo a wheel.



Next step is to drop the stock headlights back in, get the wheels on when done, put the new bumper on, and take it for a drive. It'll look rough but I want to get 20-50 miles out on the road for break in phase 2. After that I'm going to swap out the oil again and then drop this thing off at the body shop to get the new bumper and hood painted. I might see if they can help with a few touch ups as well. Just so when it's done, it really is a 9.5/10.

We are getting close. I'm actually getting excited. I'm going to do a full shakedown before I put the ST suspension, refresh the front sway bar/endlinks, and put on the new brakes and rotors.

I figure try to troubleshoot one things at a time. Breaking in an engine should not be mixed with breaking in brakes, suspension, etc, all at once. You'll never know WTF that noise is....

[KnighTT]

Trying to get the last things wrapped up. I've been racking my brain thinking if there is anything I am missing and I've gone ahead and put an order in for a few things.

- PR stg2.5 LPFP drop in unit. I realized this was the one thing I was really missing and would hinder any custom tune I implement. The Walbro 535 will fit the bill for anything I plan on throwing at this car. I'm building this for road course track days not 1/4 mile times so 600whp is the top side of my level of usable power.

- ECS SS brake lines. I've got new pads and rotors going on so why not. I'll put these on when I tear everything apart to get the new coil overs on.

I'm going to clear coat the first two wheels tonight that are ready. This week I'll start getting the other two wheels ready for paint. It'll be nice when the two wheels are done so I can mock them up and finally see if the color I chose looks right. Lol.

Bavgroup kit is on the way. I'm still debating if I should order new headlight lenses. I'm confident I can get the stock ones off and restore them to close to new. I just hope they come off alright and I don't have to wait nearly a month for lenses to get here from ebay.

[KnighTT]

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Do you know you have two unreliable cars in the same garage?



If you do the SS brake lines don't forget the 2 small ones 3/4 of the way down the chassis. Some SS kits do not include them, you should have 3 sets of 2 lines. Kind of defeats the purpose if you still leave rubber lines. But then again I think stock brake lines are just fine. Don't get me wrong, upgrade to SS. It is small money.