[WhiteBeard]

Took out my non-sport driver seat (heat + power + memory) and installed sport driver seat (heat + power + memory + lumbar and bolster) into my 08/2007 e90 328xi (USA if that matters). Seat that I installed is from a 2007 335i post 03/2007 production date judging by the fact that it has pin 7 instead of pin 9 for lumbar and side bolsters

Now positioning works, heat and memory works, but no lumbar and bolster and I have 2 lights on my dashboard: seatbelt and airbag I need to pass safety to sell my car and I'm puzzled as to what connectors/wires to add to at least sort lights off dashboard (lumbar and bolster is lower priority)?

I searched this thread and best I could find was post #52 in this thread on page 3 that shows wires/pins from 14 to 19 are for seat belt and side air bag (please see picture attached). Additionally wires/pins 7 and 13 are needed for bolster and lumbar. So am I correct I need to make sure wires/pins 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19 are getting power and ground for seatbelt and side air-bag light to go off on dashboard? And I need to provide pins 7 (steady plus) and 13 (ground) in order for lumbar and bolsters to work?

My cars wiring harness end is only missing wires/pins 7, all other wires/pins seem to be present - so I don't understand then why I got seatbelt and side airbag lights on dashboard? Is there some ground connection on the seat itself I may have missed to bolt down during installation or maybe a fusebox has some fuses missing?

[Ali-E90]

If you didn't disconnect the battery before unplugging the seats, you'll get those errors.
Just needs to be cleared out.

[arhoads335i]

Currently have M3 seats in my e92 that came with sport seats everything on passenger seat works only the drivers seat's bolsters and lumbar do not work. I did not install these the previous owner did so for this thread I'm under standing I need to soder a wire to go to pin 7 from a power wire on car side and do the same for a ground wire to pin 13. Is there a way to do it without sodering or is that the best way?

[dancing__narwhal]

Originally Posted by arhoads335i

Currently have M3 seats in my e92 that came with sport seats everything on passenger seat works only the drivers seat's bolsters and lumbar do not work. I did not install these the previous owner did so for this thread I'm under standing I need to soder a wire to go to pin 7 from a power wire on car side and do the same for a ground wire to pin 13. Is there a way to do it without sodering or is that the best way?

Soldering is how I did it. On the driver side I had one pin that controlled seat motion and one that controlled lumbar and bolsters. I confirmed which coin was which by swapping them around and seeing which functions worked when plugged in.


Once I identified the two pins that needed power, I soldered a wire from one to the other. Then I was able to plug the power into either one and it powers both. Hope that helps!

Also you can code the seatbelt and airbag warning lights out using an adapter like the Carista. I also had a fault for the active headrests since the seats I swapped didn't have them. I think that has to be coded out using Inpa or by a professional coder.

[Mate]

Hi Gents.
I readed the whole thread. Just to make sure before i start.
I have e93 2008 with non sport heated,memory,electric,lumbar (Left wheel drive EU version)
And i want to swap in for sport seats e93 2010 heated,memory,electric,lumbar,bolster.(US version)

As lumbar and bolster uses the same motor. Normally all should be plug and play correct ?

Or still i need to solder from pin 4 to 7 and 8 to 13 ?

[arhoads335i]

Originally Posted by Mate

Hi Gents.
I readed the whole thread. Just to make sure before i start.
I have e93 2008 with non sport heated,memory,electric,lumbar (Left wheel drive EU version)
And i want to swap in for sport seats e93 2010 heated,memory,electric,lumbar,bolster.(US version)

As lumbar and bolster uses the same motor. Normally all should be plug and play correct ?

Or still i need to solder from pin 4 to 7 and 8 to 13 ?

I think you should be good because both are 2008 + seats, and your currents have a lumbar motor so the new ones should get power to the lumbar motor that is used for the bolsters. I do not know if the connectors are different from EU to US though, i would think not to save money

[Mate]

Originally Posted by arhoads335i

I think you should be good because both are 2008 + seats, and your currents have a lumbar motor so the new ones should get power to the lumbar motor that is used for the bolsters. I do not know if the connectors are different from EU to US though, i would think not to save money

Today installed seats. All as you say went bolt on plug and play.
All controls bolster lumbar memory working. Except passenger occupancy sensor.
No errors on dash board regarding airbag and etc.
I tested the passenger seat unbackled while engine running. No seatbelt sign show up on dashboard. In reingold software i can clearly see when seat belt is on and off.

Any ideas regarding occupancy sensor for passenger ? How to make it active ?

[MichalS]

Hi Folks,

i retrofited sport heated seats. All ok except one airbag error 0093C1 which means seat occupancy. There is one wire with two pins and round socket coming out of the inner rail of the passenger seat. I couldn't figure out where it goes so i left it not connected. Maybe this is the reason. See the picture below. Any idea where it goes? there is no place for it in the big yellow plug.

[mr.e90]

Hi guys,

I'm currently doing the power seats retrofit on my 2006 325i. I followed the link on the 1st page of this thread of the DIY guide. I ran power and negative to both seats and getting ground from where the seats bolt down to. The passenger side works fine everything is working except the driver side is not. The issue is the seat is not going back nor forward but the lumbar and inflatable sides is working fine. What could the issue be? Any ideas?

[CarManNJ]

Great thread that I read twice and some parts more.
Kudos to woodpecka and dasammy and many others who have chimed in.

I purchased a set of e92 coupe seats from a 328i US totaled crashed car that needs to go into an 80 BMW, specifically an e30. Real old school and definitely no power ��

Priority :

1. Movement back
2. and forth
3. Heat ( not sure if I have it)
4. memory on Drivers

I wired the seats and then move and then die. From reading here seems that I need to add K-CAN to pins 2 & 3 as described here.


However, this car has no BUS. From another forum, I read that applying a 5VDC to pins 2/3 will do the trick. Using a voltage regulator I can down grade 12v from the car battery to 5v, but at what amp rate?

Questions:
Can anyone tell how much amps that pins 2/3 will tolerate? 1 amp, 3 amps? I don't want to ruin anything in the module.

Do I have heat on these seats from the picture?

See images first is drivers, second is passenger.

[ss4drhotrod]

Previous (CarManNJ) has the exact situation that i have. I also wired the seats and then move and then die. From reading here seems that I need to add K-CAN to pins 2 & 3 as described here.


However, this car has no BUS. From another forum, I also read that applying a 5VDC to pins 2/3 will do the trick. Using a voltage regulator I can down grade 12v from the car battery to 5v, but at what amp rate?

Questions:
1. Can anyone tell how much amps that pins 2/3 will tolerate? 1 amp, 3 amps? I also don't want to ruin anything in the module.
2. What is the usual voltage on the K-CAN?

thx for your time and support!!

[CarManNJ]

Originally Posted by ss4drhotrod

Previous (CarManNJ) has the exact situation that i have. I also wired the seats and then move and then die. From reading here seems that I need to add K-CAN to pins 2 & 3 as described here.


However, this car has no BUS. From another forum, I also read that applying a 5VDC to pins 2/3 will do the trick. Using a voltage regulator I can down grade 12v from the car battery to 5v, but at what amp rate?

Questions:
1. Can anyone tell how much amps that pins 2/3 will tolerate? 1 amp, 3 amps? I also don't want to ruin anything in the module.
2. What is the usual voltage on the K-CAN?

thx for your time and support!!

I placed a single switch inline with the Power, through a relay tied inline thru the ignition so that its live when the ignition is on, this allows me to adjust on the drivers/passenger seat, properly for as long as I am fiddling with the seat switches. When it dies after non use, I turn my switch off and drive into the sunset. As the only driver, I rarely have to adjust my seat again.

There are some Arduino solutions out there, but I am not confident in their ability to solve this.

If you figure out the K-CAN alternative, do let us know.

[ptpending]

there is so called half-electric seats for e92 and e82 which do not require canbus to use adjust seats

[ss4drhotrod]

I am still pursuing an alternative to the K_Can issue. I am still trying to find out what amperage the K_Can carries. Since pin 2 (+) and pin 3 (-) are about 18 gauge wire, i am assuming amperage would be at the 1 to 2 amp range.

I found a solid state voltage reducer (to 5V) at 2 amps and will try it out.

When i have run a few tests i will update the post.

[flight1]

Hi at all.

I ' ve just 1/2 retrofitted .

My e91 is business model with non electric seats; Now i found alacantara Sports Heated seats with side bolsters ( no lumbar)

How many wires needs fpr each seat? 4 ?

I took main console switch too so, i only have to wiring and coding all but my doubt is how many cables i have to pass and link in Junction box .

Thx in advance at all.

P.s. in my seat connector there is only Airbag (2 wires) and couple for seatbelt presence.

[ptpending]

permanent thick positive for heating
permanent thick negative for heating
ignition enabled positive to heating
pwm-modulated heating level
positive to side bolster
negative to side bolster

this is how it is should be from factory
in reality it will work if you wire side bolster wires to permanent heating wires

same for passenger side

[flight1]

Originally Posted by ptpending

permanent thick positive for heating
permanent thick negative for heating
ignition enabled positive to heating
pwm-modulated heating level
positive to side bolster
negative to side bolster

this is how it is should be from factory
in reality it will work if you wire side bolster wires to permanent heating wires

same for passenger side

I guess.........
Thx so much for support me.
Last question;
This wires must be linked tu fuse box , right? I saw in a retrofit guide that there are other 2 cables that link fuse box to JBBF .. is it true?

About side bolsters i will split pos and neg from Heated system directrly from seat connector. It will be more simple.

Thx again an Bye.

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by flight1

I guess.........
Thx so much for support me.
Last question;
This wires must be linked tu fuse box , right? I saw in a retrofit guide that there are other 2 cables that link fuse box to JBBF .. is it true?

About side bolsters i will split pos and neg from Heated system directrly from seat connector. It will be more simple.

Thx again an Bye.

negatives go to negative clamp in a footwell
jbbf control only pwm-wires

[Digitalinkartist]

Thanks to woodpecka and dasammy for making this possible.

I recently secured a full M3 interior I have read through this thread and support documents. As each install is unique I have a few concerns. additionally, i would like to make this install as OEM as possible

Note -
When new seats are plugged/powered to existing wiring only the lumbar pump is working connection#7. This connection was powering the bolsters on my original seats. This is powered by a 10 Amp 18 awg wire (from Fuse Terminal #37). Is it possible a second dedicated 10 Amp fuse powers the bolsters? or will a circuit be completed when the passenger seat is installed and wired correctly?

Question - There is NO existing 12 awg power under seat (see wiring image below)

• Do I need to add a dedicated 12 agw (30 amp) positive line to fuse box?
• If yes, Can it be stranded?

Question - Do I need to add a second 12 awg ground to connection#8 (Car side harness)? If yes, Can it be stranded?


Recipient: 2007 E92
Options:

• Bolsters

Wiring [Car Side]


Seat Harness [Original Driver Seat]


Modules [Original Driver Seat]


Controls (Original Driver Seat)


Donor: 2010 e92 M3
Options:

• Power Adjust
• Lumbar
• Bolsters
• Heat
• Memory

Seat Harness [New Driver Seat]


Modules [New Driver Seat]


Controls [New Driver Seat]


Harness diagram

[r8ede30]

Originally Posted by ss4drhotrod

I am still pursuing an alternative to the K_Can issue. I am still trying to find out what amperage the K_Can carries. Since pin 2 (+) and pin 3 (-) are about 18 gauge wire, i am assuming amperage would be at the 1 to 2 amp range.

I found a solid state voltage reducer (to 5V) at 2 amps and will try it out.

When i have run a few tests i will update the post.

I have a pair of E93 seats from a 2011 m3. powered and heated.
I have installed them into my e30. they are behaving just like yours.
I have a relay installed to power them off a switch but the motors only operate for a short time. I also believe the 5v to canbus (2,3 pin) could be a solution. have you tried this yet. i'm about ready to try it but also don't want to fry the seats

[Bmachine]

Super helpful thread indeed, even 7 years after it was created.

I'm also in a situation where I have a pair of e92 sport seats that I am trying to install in an earlier model ('73 3.0cs) that does not have a K-can Bus. It looks like a few people in the last few posts have been trying to find out how to make this work but I did not see any successful solution.

Seems to me there are 5 options:

1. Simplest option is to find a way to get it to work at least once and set all controls to the way you want and then just hope you never want to change them.

2. Find a way to make the seat computer think there is a BUS attached, apparently by sending 5v + to pin 2 and - to pin3. Has anyone actually done this?

3. Get a K-can bus from a parts car and somehow hook it up in the car. (Is that even possible?)

4. Re-wire the seat to bypass the seat computer and send power directly to the control switches

5. Remove the electrical controls and convert everything to manual. Not sure if this is possible either.

Has anyone tried any of these successfully?

Thank you.

[ptpending]

5 variant is real, you'll need to get manual seat frames from e92 coupe