[apexit4]

Originally Posted by Darkswarmer

Thanks for the reply. I’ve decided not to do the soup delete for now, because my county’s laws are changing and will be checking diesel emissions starting in 2019 :/

I’ve also decided to buy a media blaster (I’ve always wanted one) and the wand and adapter to do the CBU myself. Will take pics and post.

Call around some of the tuners and see who sets readiness to passed. If your county will do a simple OBD check for emissions, that should get you through the test while being deleted.

Regarding your previous questions:
1) Its completely possible to preserve a way to go back to stock after doing all the deletes. You should be able to get away with just getting a tune and leaving all the stock emissions components on the car. If you decide to replace your DPF with a down pipe, just keep it around on the off chance you need it in the future (I still have mine). VRSF makes a very reasonably priced downpipe. Anything aft of the DPF/downpipe is not a requirement with a tune.

2) See my answer to question 1. Swapping the DPF for a downpipe is possible at home but should be very expensive at your local indy should you decide not to do it yourself. There is a DIY though on here for the downpipe install.

3) You can definitely tune back to factory settings. Just make sure that whoever you choose for your tune makes a copy of your DDE before doing the tune upgrade.

4) If you have CBU, its a good idea to get it done. Its not required, but its an issue that you should resolve sooner or later. Your tune should close the valve on the EGR valve to prevent the CBU issue from getting worse though.

5) Check out the North American Diesel Owners Group on facebook. It has many active members and should be able to help should you get stuck.

6) Each tuner should either already provide the different specs between the stages of their tunes or send you that info if you inquire. Unfortunately there is no single resource that aggregates this information. If you want to get rid of emissions components and make sure all other components aren't adversely affected by the additional power, just get base tune from your chosen tuner (thats what I did). Although there are many members here that havent been adversely affected by some of the higher power tunes out there, I've seen one that needs all the rubber bushings in the rear suspension replaced because of how much flex there is from all the torque.

7) I think the overall consensus is that the cars hold up quite well over time with a tune. You could check out the mileage thread (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...080626&page=11) and look up some of the higher mileage owners there and reach out to them.

8) Depends on what you are trying to achieve. If you intend on doing the downpipe install or a full exhaust yourself, most definitely get 4. But jack stands are relatively cheap and it just makes sense to have 4 on hand if you do a lot of DIY's and have space to store them.

9) A tune IS required when deleting the emissions components. A transmission flush is not. However, high torque is harder on oil and its a good preventative maintenance item to do. I think BMW says their transmission oil is good for the lifetime of the car (I know a lot of VAG products claim that), but real world testing/driving has proven that to not be the case.

10) I've spent around $1500 on a tune and a downpipe. That doesnt include any labor since I did the work myself. Prices have come down since and you should be able to get a tune and downpipe within a $1k budget. Removing the SCR tank requires no additional funds. Removing the EGR cooler required a race pipe, which range from about $150-$250. A DPF-back exhaust is completely optional.

I hope that answers all of your questions. I know you said the laws in you county are changing, but I still think there is a way for you to pass emissions and be deleted. It all depends on how your county will be doing the emissions inspection.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Call around some of the tuners and see who sets readiness to passed. If your county will do a simple OBD check for emissions, that should get you through the test while being deleted.

Regarding your previous questions:
1) Its completely possible to preserve a way to go back to stock after doing all the deletes. You should be able to get away with just getting a tune and leaving all the stock emissions components on the car. If you decide to replace your DPF with a down pipe, just keep it around on the off chance you need it in the future (I still have mine). VRSF makes a very reasonably priced downpipe. Anything aft of the DPF/downpipe is not a requirement with a tune.

I felt it important to clarify/expand on what answer 1 given above says. I was an early adopter of doing the deletes. I ran with a down pipe (DP)and completely stock exhaust aft of the DP. I learned a few months later that the SCR catalyst will clog up with soot as there is no DPF to play goalie and protect the SCR. So, I will call a small audible and say either be prepared to gut the SCR or change to aftermarket exhaust.
I completely agree with apexit in keeping all of the parts in the event a return to stock config is required. I do wonder how bad my SCR is clogged with soot though. I drove 6000 miles with downpipe and unmodd'd SCR combo. Its gotta be a bit fouled up.

One of the other questions asked about 4 jack stands. Absolutely, use 4 especially if you're doing the exhaust conversion to aftermarket. If you pull the exhaust, consider removal of the urea tanks as the exhaust removal is part of that job, My exhaust is in 3 pieces so I would only have to pull back 1/3 to do tank removal. See my "spare under trunk" thread for more broad description. OUT

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by nicklockard

Yep.

Waiting for DDE to return in mail while I finish my WM install. But, I did wrap the pipe with 2" at 75% overlap. The wrap was $18 on Amazon for 2 rolls, so I figured it was worth a try.

Prior to this, I'd say the unburnt hydrocarbons were an 8 on a 1-10 scale for unpleasantness. But, that was on an ABC deleted car without appropriate tune. For some unknown reasons, my car drove home with an all new exhaust, fullly ABC deleted, and no limp mode resulted.

I will report the smell once everything is back together, by adding to this post.

Summary:

• Car was illiterate with iaknown's turbo-back exhaust with new oxidation catalyst, but with stage I tune.
• Smell was 8 of 10 for unpleasant unburnt hydrocarbons
• Prior to abc delete, EGT's were always 190C idling, never more than 4xxC driving. No EGT data available post-delete, yet.

Nick - you wrote of wrapping DP last year in February. I was hoping you would come back and tell us if the wrap helped with the cat's ability to scrub smell better or not. Thanks

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I felt it important to clarify/expand on what answer 1 given above says. I was an early adopter of doing the deletes. I ran with a down pipe (DP)and completely stock exhaust aft of the DP. I learned a few months later that the SCR catalyst will clog up with soot as there is no DPF to play goalie and protect the SCR. So, I will call a small audible and say either be prepared to gut the SCR or change to aftermarket exhaust.
I completely agree with apexit in keeping all of the parts in the event a return to stock config is required. I do wonder how bad my SCR is clogged with soot though. I drove 6000 miles with downpipe and unmodd'd SCR combo. Its gotta be a bit fouled up.

One of the other questions asked about 4 jack stands. Absolutely, use 4 especially if you're doing the exhaust conversion to aftermarket. If you pull the exhaust, consider removal of the urea tanks as the exhaust removal is part of that job, My exhaust is in 3 pieces so I would only have to pull back 1/3 to do tank removal. See my "spare under trunk" thread for more broad description. OUT

Could you elaborate a little more on what you mean by the SCR becoming clogged? I'm assuming you're talking about the SCR metering valve mounted on the tail end of the DPF but your comment makes it sound like the actual SCR tank is what clogged up.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Could you elaborate a little more on what you mean by the SCR becoming clogged? I'm assuming you're talking about the SCR metering valve mounted on the tail end of the DPF but your comment makes it sound like the actual SCR tank is what clogged up.

No the scr is like the mid pipe of the exhaust. You'll see what looks like a muffler but it's filled with that honeycomb filter. The soot will eventually clog it up

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by RL18

No the scr is like the mid pipe of the exhaust. You'll see what looks like a muffler but it's filled with that honeycomb filter. The soot will eventually clog it up

Ah, thanks for the clarification!

[nicklockard]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Nick - you wrote of wrapping DP last year in February. I was hoping you would come back and tell us if the wrap helped with the cat's ability to scrub smell better or not. Thanks

Yes, in my admittedly subjective opinion it reduces smell by about 33% to 50% depending on outside temperatures and how warm the engine was (cold start or warm start, etc.) However a re-tune reduced smell even further. With an improved tune and wrap, smell is almost a non-issue. My wife asks 'what's that smell", but I just told her that's what diesels smell like so get used to it, lol.

The downside is that vibrations, wind, and little driveway scrapes (my car was lowered from previous owner with coil over kit) makes it unravel past the cat. So now it's only wrapped to the end of the cat (before I had it extend back, which made the sound really cool). Oh, I forgot to mention that I think the wrap improves the quality and nature of the exhaust sounds--i hear more turbo whistling, little barking noises on down shifts, and a more 'rumbly' and 'burbly' low rpm noise. Hard to describe, but subjectively nicer in my opinion.

Money permitting, I think I'd rather have ceramic coating on turbine housings, exhaust header and down pipe past the oxidation catalyst for a cleaner look and improved performance, plus smell reduction. I think it can be had for around $650. Keeping my eyes open for a good deal...

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by nicklockard

Yes, in my admittedly subjective opinion it reduces smell by about 33% to 50% depending on outside temperatures and how warm the engine was (cold start or warm start, etc.) However a re-tune reduced smell even further. With an improved tune and wrap, smell is almost a non-issue. My wife asks 'what's that smell", but I just told her that's what diesels smell like so get used to it, lol.

The downside is that vibrations, wind, and little driveway scrapes (my car was lowered from previous owner with coil over kit) makes it unravel past the cat. So now it's only wrapped to the end of the cat (before I had it extend back, which made the sound really cool). Oh, I forgot to mention that I think the wrap improves the quality and nature of the exhaust sounds--i hear more turbo whistling, little barking noises on down shifts, and a more 'rumbly' and 'burbly' low rpm noise. Hard to describe, but subjectively nicer in my opinion.

Money permitting, I think I'd rather have ceramic coating on turbine housings, exhaust header and down pipe past the oxidation catalyst for a cleaner look and improved performance, plus smell reduction. I think it can be had for around $650. Keeping my eyes open for a good deal...

Thanks Nick for follow up.

[DozerDan82]

Started doing my deletes tonight.

Got the motor mounts out, only to look at my new ones and realize they are not vacuum, Have not even looked to see if i can run them or if I need to get new ones.

I used my over head hoist to raise the engine off the mounts, actually had to go way further than I would have thought to get them to clear out.

My car had an additional brace under the sub frame, had to remove to get to the DS motor mount bolts.

RawTek down pipe is in the mail, ERG pipe should also be. Computer is in the mail to DUDMD

Water pump and thermo are in, as is the Fluidampr Harmonic.

Need to finish pulling the DPF and then gut the SCR, But that will have to wait until the weekend, as I am traveling for work the rest of the week.

[DozerDan82]

I 'cheated' with the engine lifting. And since I was doing both motor mounts I had some room to go up and down.

DPF is out, those 4 bolts were a PITA but doable..

Kicking myself for starting this on jackstands in the garage instead of bringing over to my cousins place where we have a 2 post lift. But when it is here I can tinker with it easier as time allows.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

I 'cheated' with the engine lifting. And since I was doing both motor mounts I had some room to go up and down.

DPF is out, those 4 bolts were a PITA but doable..

Kicking myself for starting this on jackstands in the garage instead of bringing over to my cousins place where we have a 2 post lift. But when it is here I can tinker with it easier as time allows.

Looks like youve got the whole front end off. Are you doing more maintenance than just the ABC delete's?

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Looks like youve got the whole front end off. Are you doing more maintenance than just the ABC delete's?

I wrecked the car back in Sept. PS control arm broke going down the highway- made for a fun ride, but luckily the car in front of me stopped me.

I bought it back and am finally getting around to fixing it. While I have it apart I am doing deletes/tune. Started with doing the water pump- then the Harmonic, since it was literally staring me in the face- and escalated from there.

Slowly but surely going back together. Maybe in the next few weeks it will be ready to drive again.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

I wrecked the car back in Sept. PS control arm broke going down the highway- made for a fun ride, but luckily the car in front of me stopped me.

I bought it back and am finally getting around to fixing it. While I have it apart I am doing deletes/tune. Started with doing the water pump- then the Harmonic, since it was literally staring me in the face- and escalated from there.

Slowly but surely going back together. Maybe in the next few weeks it will be ready to drive again.

Ouch! Nice to see you are trying to get it back on the road.

You probably already know this, but getting to drive it again will feel extremely satisfying!

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Ouch! Nice to see you are trying to get it back on the road.

You probably already know this, but getting to drive it again will feel extremely satisfying!

Not the first time this car has been out of commission for an extended period of time. I know I can get it back, done plenty of car rebuilds. I just miss driving it.

I am rocking my 5.3L Envoy Denali- which is nice but its no 335d. Just miss the driving experience.

[335DrD]

Another (new) 335D owner who used this thread to go through the ABC deletes. Took a while and yes getting the engine mount was a fun challenge. Gutted the SCR and whilst I had the exhaust down, I went ahead and lost 70lbs!
Next step will be to change the stock muffler and make room for a spare tyre.

I now have to figure out (and fix) why I picked up a P0685 code after my work. Any ideas?

Thanks to all the pioneers for paving the way for those of us who have not followed in their paths.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by 335DrD

Another (new) 335D owner who used this thread to go through the ABC deletes. Took a while and yes getting the engine mount was a fun challenge. Gutted the SCR and whilst I had the exhaust down, I went ahead and lost 70lbs!
Next step will be to change the stock muffler and make room for a spare tyre.

I now have to figure out (and fix) why I picked up a P0685 code after my work. Any ideas?

Thanks to all the pioneers for paving the way for those of us who have not followed in their paths.

P0685 is for the DDE main relay. Here's the DTC description in ISTA+:
"Fault while opening DDE main relay. The monitoring function checks whether the DDE main relay was opened without a request from the DDE (end of after-run phase).

If there is a problem with the DDE main relay opening a counter is incremented by 1 every time the DDE control unit is initialised. This counter is stored in the EEPROM.

The fault code is logged when the counter exceeds the threshold of 3."
Most likely related to undervoltage. I assume you disconnected your battery? Just clear and see if it comes back.

[335DrD]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

P0685 is for the DDE main relay. ....I assume you disconnected your battery? Just clear and see if it comes back.

Mik325tds Thanks for getting back to me. I removed the Power wire for the starter in the engine bay, but did not disconnect the battery. I will reset and check back at the weekend as I am heading out of town.

[335DrD]

Mik325tds, I managed to reset the code and went on a 140mile road trip. Happy to report all is fine. Many thanks and much appreciated.

[14.4volts]

First off! Wow! This thread is awesome, 🙌🏽👏👏 to all the contributors here, specially the OP!
I am a mechanic, make a living as a technician and kinda nuts. I own 3 BMW’s right now. 4 if you count the EX wifes.. 🙃
I’ve got every bit of BMW software I would need to code, test and brick things with. Dedicated laptop.
My daily is an X5M and I use to use my Exwifes E53 to tow with, not what I want to do with my M.
Currently with VF stage 1 on deck and Stage 2 awaiting warmer weather.
I got a unbeatable deal on a 2010 X5 d that I couldn’t pass up, fully loaded with everything and tow package 2 owners tons of service records, clean carfax and what turned out to be some really easy issues to fix.
That said the DPF is due, the glow plug controler and glow plugs are all due.
Plan is to drive this daily and camp and tow with it, I am about 💯 sure I won’t be able to without getting it to not bore me when leaving the light, coming from an M it’s a harder thing to do then you would think. Especially when you have the option to drive either in the morning.
So sorry for the long post about me, just hoping that insight and how I feel would get me the best responses.

So... I already know that I can delete everything and code ready status and pass our little OBDII testing in my state, reading through the whole thread I’ve notices things going back and forth then stuff being retracted based on new discovery and information.
I’d like to do water/meth using the DPF tanks, I want to delete everything and I’d like to get this thing as close to my X5M as possible for power without sacrificing life span and dependability.
So, my question to the group is what would you do?
Down pipe, ceramic coatings, exhuast, down stream cats or no?
A short comprehensive list of parts to change, not change and what who you’d recommend for things like down pipe, EGR, tune etc and anything helpful would be really appreciated.
Far as work, method or anything like that I can do the leg work.
But so and so’s down pipe, keep this sensor dont keep this one is helpful. I’ve seen things change since the start of this post like waste gates etc.
Sorry, I am usually super quick to pick this all up but modding bmw diesels is brand new to me and I am not sure I’ve really picked everything up appropriately.
So greatful for this thread!! Thanks!!

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by 14.4volts

So... I already know that I can delete everything and code ready status and pass our little OBDII testing in my state, reading through the whole thread I’ve notices things going back and forth then stuff being retracted based on new discovery and information.
I’d like to do water/meth using the DPF tanks, I want to delete everything and I’d like to get this thing as close to my X5M as possible for power without sacrificing life span and dependability.
So, my question to the group is what would you do?
Down pipe, ceramic coatings, exhuast, down stream cats or no?
A short comprehensive list of parts to change, not change and what who you’d recommend for things like down pipe, EGR, tune etc and anything helpful would be really appreciated.
Far as work, method or anything like that I can do the leg work.
But so and so’s down pipe, keep this sensor dont keep this one is helpful. I’ve seen things change since the start of this post like waste gates etc.
Sorry, I am usually super quick to pick this all up but modding bmw diesels is brand new to me and I am not sure I’ve really picked everything up appropriately.
So greatful for this thread!! Thanks!!

Hello 14.4volts and welcome to this forum!
Looks like you read the whole thread which has gotten kind of long now...
Consensus on the waste gate porting is that it isn't needed anymore. For tuning there are several options and you'll need to do some research to find which one will fit your wants. With my 335d, I'm on the JR 2.8 tune which is I believe the least smokiest out there while delivering very good power and torque. If you don't care about smoke there may be more power to be had. On my X5d I'm on the Stage 2 with only EGR delete but a friend of mine went with the full delete from ATM.
I'd definitely recommend going with a catted downpipe as without it the smell is pretty bad on a traffic light.Ceramic Coating should enhance keeping the DOC warm and working.
Be aware though, this thread describes the 335d - deleting the X5 35d is quite a bit more work and more difficult. But with your experience that should be no problem.

[14.4volts]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Hello 14.4volts and welcome to this forum!
Looks like you read the whole thread which has gotten kind of long now...
Consensus on the waste gate porting is that it isn't needed anymore. For tuning there are several options and you'll need to do some research to find which one will fit your wants. With my 335d, I'm on the JR 2.8 tune which is I believe the least smokiest out there while delivering very good power and torque. If you don't care about smoke there may be more power to be had. On my X5d I'm on the Stage 2 with only EGR delete but a friend of mine went with the full delete from ATM.
I'd definitely recommend going with a catted downpipe as without it the smell is pretty bad on a traffic light.Ceramic Coating should enhance keeping the DOC warm and working.
Be aware though, this thread describes the 335d - deleting the X5 35d is quite a bit more work and more difficult. But with your experience that should be no problem.

Hey man, thanks for the reply!
Far as difficulty is concerned, I am not too woried.
The former shop that worked on this before I had it broke the ccv tube by striping the nut on the support bracket the intake tube bolts to, it had no support and broke off at the very end where the plastic flex pipe would snap too it.
A $.95 cents 1/2” copper pluming coupler and some epoxy was the quick fix to get it drivable, that said its all coming off to be replace.. wich means new Valve cover. 😔 Also... there appears to be some oil leaks, some probably from the valve cover, hoping most was from the engine just venting muck from the valve cover directly into the engine compartment. Funny when I was looking to buy it I didn’t know any of the issues, driving it with my buddy. I am looking around the cabin and saying “dude, is it smokey in here or are my contacts messed up” smells like oil in here.. 😆
The hvac was on fresh air, it was just dumping it right into the cabin... kinda funny. At any rate, the whole top half is coming off, the bumper is coming off either for repair or replacment. Its got a nice scuff on the front corner and lots of dings from living in the city.
Havent decided on turbo yet, inspect, rebuild, replace or nothing at all. Whats the life span on these? Anyone upgrading impeller/compressor wheel?
Far as smell, I would love to midigate that as much as possible but I don’t want to use DEF any more and I would like to remove as much carbon adding components and emissions maintenance componets as possible.
If I can go catless and find a solution to decrease the smell as much as possible, it would be my preferred option... wish I could smell one de-cat’d to make that decision... from reading here seems to be pretty obnoxious to some and not an issue for others, I dont know if there would be much of a difference between the X and 3?
High flow cat, possible.. conflicted on different exhuast styles and smell and also if I go water/meth how much disadvantage I’d have with a cat?
I’d like to use the DEF tank(s) for water/meth if I get that far... haven't made that decision yet either, but for sure dont want to use DEF EVER again! 😊

As it sits this is the list of mods I know for sure I’ll be doing.
EGR delete
Swirl Flap delete
DPF delete
Vacuum lines
Harmonic balancer
Glow plugs and controller.
Valve cover
CBU cleaning
Exhaust, this is another one that will take consideration, lots of options...
Intercooler, upgrade? Hoses for sure.
Engine mounts while I am in there.
Miscellaneous shit BMW plastics upgrades? Insight here, intake and other stuff?
Possible injectors? These have any similar issues to the N63? Upgrades?
Fuel filter
Possible intake mods.. I want reliable though and I live in a wet environment.

On the fence mods
Water/meth
Turbo upgrade
High flow cat vs straight
Type of tune vs lifespan and reliability.
Fuel pump upgrade, or just do it for the sake of getting it done.. 135k miles.
Pulling the head, walnut blasting, re-work and cam upgrade. Any issues with the guides, valve slop etc.. my experience with BMW engines burning oil is.. almost all of them! 😂
If I pull the head I’ll just spend the money to make it right, that said I really dont want to add that time or expenses atm, however if I can find enough convincing data to outweigh my laziness and hate for doing heads.. I will!
I’ll be halfway there anyway.

Not sure what I am missing here, again I am a baby when it comes to BMW diesel knowledge so I am trying to absorb as much info as I possibly can.

I do know I am excited to build/mod something that doesn’t have the big fat
M-tax attached to it! 😂

Any coding options besides “ready status” anyone has found useful or necessary?
Anyone here used the DEF tanks for water/meth, any comments on that would be super appreciated!
Also, anything that is a must do or any advice is always welcome!
Thanks again, really getting excited for this build!!!

[Goboro100]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

So the DOC gets tossed out along with the DPF in Mik's mod? I remember TDI saying there was some benefit to keeping the DOC to control odor etc but that is "not goign happen" with a replacement downpipe, correct?

Okay question guys. The Check Engine Light will be triggered on performing the EGR delete. So tune will be needed for annual checkups. Any recommendations?