[eljay]

Some front end hardware bits came in should enable me to assemble my front struts for install today.
I still need to order more bolts and nuts for the rear it seems as pretty much everything is one-time use only. Which brings me to a question about the subframe inserts. I posted this in the Suspension section, but not sure how many E91 owners check there.

I see that the rear chassis brace (called "tension strut") is connected to the subframe and the body. with 6 one-time use bolts (i.e. more $$ and time to order).

Has anyone installed inserts on an E91 Touring with this rear brace (called tension strut)? Does that need to be removed and lowered with the subframe? It seems there's no way around it.

[Tambohamilton]

Yep, you need to take them off to drop the subframe. Mine are on at least their 3rd use, but I can't recommend that....

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Yep, you need to take them off to drop the subframe. Mine are on at least their 3rd use, but I can't recommend that....

Thanks.
So, did you remove the brace completely or just loosened the bolts sufficiently to enable subframe to come down a bit?
I was thinking of re-using them, but the spec is 100Nm + 90 deg. That's quite the torque.

[Tambohamilton]

The subframe needs to drop by maybe 1" to clear the locating pins on the chassis, so those bits really need to come off.

Yeah, I may or may not have done the 90deg... I definitely could not afford to run my car if I replaced all the single use parts each time.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

The subframe needs to drop by maybe 1" to clear the locating pins on the chassis, so those bits really need to come off.

Yeah, I may or may not have done the 90deg... I definitely could not afford to run my car if I replaced all the single use parts each time.

After spending $200+ on just hardware alone, I agree!
I'll leave the inserts for later when I can reposition my lift to get at all the brace bolts.

[eljay]

Soo, the progress here is VERY slow as the rear control arms bushings are hell on this car. I didn't manage to get a single one out yet, so 8 to go.
As I am also fighting with the front ball joint, I am having crazy thoughts to also do oil pan gasket as it seems to be seeping although I'm not losing any oil on the ground or otherwise in the onboard monitor. And then I'm also contemplating adding water pump replacement to the list, so I can be done with all the biggies.

I estimate that it will take me another month to get it back on the road.
Really miss driving the car.

[Tambohamilton]

Keep at it, it'll be worth it!

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

I undid the eccentric on the chassis side as it was going to go to the alignment shop right after.

It was easier and looked way less manky than the bolt at the hub.
use a jack under the control arm to put it back in place.
kind of sketchy, but not really if you know what I'm saying.

On the driver's side, did you have to remove or drop the exhaust?
There's no way I can slide out the eccentric bolt with exhaust in the way. I even dropped it from the rear mounts and still cannot slide the bolt out. To drop the exhaust further, I will have to remove the rear body brace.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

On the driver's side, did you have to remove or drop the exhaust?
There's no way I can slide out the eccentric bolt with exhaust in the way. I even dropped it from the rear mounts and still cannot slide the bolt out. To drop the exhaust further, I will have to remove the rear body brace.

I did not pull anything other than the bolts.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

I did not pull anything other than the bolts.

My eccentric bolt will not move any further with the exhaust in the way and even moved down to rest on the rear brace support. I need another good 1/2-1" to get it out.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by eljay

My eccentric bolt will not move any further with the exhaust in the way and even moved down to rest on the rear brace support. I need another good 1/2-1" to get it out.

Cut and replace with new from the other side? You could q high grade bolt from the hardware store.

[bshambam]

You can try to get that inch by releasing the muffler from it's exhaust hangers. The weight of the exhaust will help you gain the space you need.

I'm confident you'll be able to get that sucker out without cutting.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by bshambam

You can try to get that inch by releasing the muffler from it's exhaust hangers. The weight of the exhaust will help you gain the space you need.

I'm confident you'll be able to get that sucker out without cutting.

That's the thing: the muffler is already off its hangers. I also loosened the brace now. I have to get the exhaust off the last hanger that leads to the mid section and see if it drops enough.

Yeah, those eccentric bolts are $20 here and the head should be facing forward.

[Tambohamilton]

Just drop the brace too. You're going to need the space to replace that bushing anyhow, right?

You know my stance on some of these 'single use' bolts. Those ones on mine are on at least their 3rd use, if not more! YMMV.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Just drop the brace too. You're going to need the space to replace that bushing anyhow, right?

You know my stance on some of these 'single use' bolts. Those ones on mine are on at least their 3rd use, if not more! YMMV.

Yep, got the brace off, slipped the exhaust off that 3rd hanger and got the bolt out easily and now have good access to that bushing.

Which brings me to CRAZY thoughts...
The paint is flaking off the subframe and leaving surface rust exposed. There are no perforations etc. But seeing as I am putting brand new arms and bushings in, it kind of bugs me to leave the subframe like that.

The brake line fittings in the rear don't look great, so removing the subframe would add a job I've never done: flaring brake lines on the car. Then it's a question of finding a clean sourthern subframe and having it shipped or spend the money on getting mine sandblasted and powdercoated. Then, I should also remove axles, replace reluctor rings, bearings, clean up/blast spindles.... where does one stop?

Talk me off the ledge, please!

[Tambohamilton]

I'd love to treat the subframe on mine too. When I dropped it the hard lines sheared off with the flare nuts- I made sure to undo the nuts on the subframe side so that I didn't need to replace the body side lines. I actually quite enjoy replacing hard line; I find it pretty satisfying and not that stressful.

The OE hard lines are hilarious too; I got easily 2 full turns on them before they sheared off

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

Yep, got the brace off, slipped the exhaust off that 3rd hanger and got the bolt out easily and now have good access to that bushing.

Which brings me to CRAZY thoughts...
The paint is flaking off the subframe and leaving surface rust exposed. There are no perforations etc. But seeing as I am putting brand new arms and bushings in, it kind of bugs me to leave the subframe like that.

The brake line fittings in the rear don't look great, so removing the subframe would add a job I've never done: flaring brake lines on the car. Then it's a question of finding a clean sourthern subframe and having it shipped or spend the money on getting mine sandblasted and powdercoated. Then, I should also remove axles, replace reluctor rings, bearings, clean up/blast spindles.... where does one stop?

Talk me off the ledge, please!

hose the subframe down with rust converter, paint it black, use black fluid film.
It will look fine afterwards and stop rusting. no need to pull it from the car.

If you live in a region where rust happens and the lines are all nasty, nicop lines. Do them all.

I suppose your bolt and my bolt may have been instaled differently, I didn't have any of those issues. I guess you lucked out on the right hand/left handed worker lottery.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by bshambam

You can try to get that inch by releasing the muffler from it's exhaust hangers. The weight of the exhaust will help you gain the space you need.

I'm confident you'll be able to get that sucker out without cutting.

+1 I did it not so long ago. Unclip muffler flange and I used a crow bar to pry down the exhaust pipe. Simple.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

hose the subframe down with rust converter, paint it black, use black fluid film.
It will look fine afterwards and stop rusting. no need to pull it from the car.

If you live in a region where rust happens and the lines are all nasty, nicop lines. Do them all.

I suppose your bolt and my bolt may have been instaled differently, I didn't have any of those issues. I guess you lucked out on the right hand/left handed worker lottery.

Thanks. Not sure I can get to everything on the frame while it's still in the car, which is why I was thinking of just pulling the subframe out and wirebrushing it and recoat with anti-rust paint. And then I still have to deal with the ABS rings on the axles and still have spindles that are rusty.
I may have to do that, but I'll first see if I can find a clean rear subframe dropout with diff, axles, and spindles and put my suspension bits on that.

[eljay]

Before disconnecting rear brake lines, I will press the brake pedal to close the master and prevent air from being drawn into the system. And probably disconnect the battery forst too.
My question is whether it is safe to leave the pedal pressed like that for a long time. Let's say it takes me two weeks to get everything back together, is there a risk of air being drawn into the lines upstream?

[Tambohamilton]

Nope, that's absolutely fine. No worries!

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Nope, that's absolutely fine. No worries!

Thank you!
When you dropped your subframe with a diff, did you also replace the rear guibo/flex disc on the driveshaft?
The car has only 90k on the guibo and I really don't feel like adding yet another $120 to the parts list that's already steep $$$, but since I'll have to unbolt the diff anyway, I wonder if I should replace the guibo too.
And I am not looking forward to remove the front exhaust pipes from the downpipes.
This refresh project is escalating out of control it seems...