[NGEE]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

I'm guessing they replaced it thinking it was the source of a stall? Anyway, I wouldn't bother trying too hard, since if they replaced it, there had to be something wrong with it in the first place which, whether actually the cause of a stall or not, is unrelated to the recall.

I.E. whether they found it for the wrong reason or not, it's still unrelated.

Exactly. I don't think the service techs replace those kinds of items just to "see if it works". If they replaced an injector it's because they ran a test and the results told them to replace it.

[nukezero]

Just to recap guys,

are they replacing the entire +B positive cable that runs from the trunk to the cabin?

or

are they replacing just the +B positive cable terminal at the battery plus the junction box?

I don't want them tearing up my interior so much.

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by nukezero

Just to recap guys,

are they replacing the entire +B positive cable that runs from the trunk to the cabin?

or

are they replacing just the +B positive cable terminal at the battery plus the junction box?

I don't want them tearing up my interior so much.

The latter. And it's not at the battery, it's only at the JB. They're basically cutting off the problem terminal, stripping back a bit of the existing cable, then attaching a new terminal assembly. I don't think they're replacing any JB components or battery terminal components.

But then does it matter? Would you really refuse recall service for an issue that could stall your car in the middle of the highway on the grounds that they had to get under your carpet a bit?

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

The latter. And it's not at the battery, it's only at the JB. They're basically cutting off the problem terminal, stripping back a bit of the existing cable, then attaching a new terminal assembly. I don't think they're replacing any JB components or battery terminal components.

^this. No way they are going to rip the interiors out of half a million cars to replace a perfectly good battery cable, when it's only the fuse box connection that's bad.

And they will only replace the fuse box if there is damage.

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by edrive90

^this. No way they are going to rip the interiors out of half a million cars to replace a perfectly good battery cable, when it's only the fuse box connection that's bad.

And they will only replace the fuse box if there is damage.

That's why the old replacements were a grand or more and the new one is $30. More parts cost, but also way more labor. That's why there was a delay from announcement to customer notification: designing a cheap process to not totally break the bank.

[hockeyfox]

Still have not received my notice. Are any other members still waiting on theirs?

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by hockeyfox

Still have not received my notice. Are any other members still waiting on theirs?

got mine last week, but i sold my car already 6 months ago

[mr_milo]

Originally Posted by edrive90

Exactly. I don't think the service techs replace those kinds of items just to "see if it works". If they replaced an injector it's because they ran a test and the results told them to replace it.

Well I know that's not always true. This is OT but I had a window motor/regulator replaced at one dealership since my windows kept coming half way down when I tried to roll them up. This was a clear case of the pinch protection being over sensitive but they replaced the window motor/regulator anyways.

It came as no surprise that the problem never got fixed and continued to happen even after the replacement. I took it to a different dealership and they updated the coding..... Problem solved!

When techs are stumped they surely do use the "shotgun" approach!

[nukezero]

So do I need to worry about my Cobb flash? Can I specifically ask the dealer NOT to reprogram the DME or touch the diagnostic port in any way? Just do the recall and leave everything else alone.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by mr_milo

Well I know that's not always true. This is OT but I had a window motor/regulator replaced at one dealership since my windows kept coming half way down when I tried to roll them up. This was a clear case of the pinch protection being over sensitive but they replaced the window motor/regulator anyways.

It came as no surprise that the problem never got fixed and continued to happen even after the replacement. I took it to a different dealership and they updated the coding..... Problem solved!

When techs are stumped they surely do use the "shotgun" approach!

I'm not saying they don't make mistakes, but this doesn't sound right. They don't re-code anything - maybe they initialized the window settings (kind of like rebooting)? It seems more likely the original tech who replaced the window regulator may have neglected to initialize the window settings. I doubt your window regulator problem stumped them.

Point being - I doubt a tech replaces a single fuel injector just because the car stalled and he/she didn't know what else to do.

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by edrive90

I'm not saying they don't make mistakes, but this doesn't sound right. They don't re-code anything - maybe they initialized the window settings (kind of like rebooting)? It seems more likely the original tech who replaced the window regulator may have neglected to initialize the window settings. I doubt your window regulator problem stumped them.

Point being - I doubt a tech replaces a single fuel injector just because the car stalled and he/she didn't know what else to do.

Agreed with most everything here, although the windows could strictly be coding. They have to do a range check, and the stored values could presumably have gotten corrupted somehow. Though that's for sure not to say it couldn't have been BOTH a failed motor AND the failure to recal the replacement after repair.

Anyway, my real point is, how do you single out ONE injector to replace unless something at least points to it being suboptimal? We already know in hindsight it wasn't the cause of the issue, so it can't have been actually broken. But picking an arbitrary injector to replace from 6 fully functional ones would have been insane unless someone was specifically out to screw you.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

Agreed with most everything here, although the windows could strictly be coding. They have to do a range check, and the stored values could presumably have gotten corrupted somehow. Though that's for sure not to say it couldn't have been BOTH a failed motor AND the failure to recal the replacement after repair.

I apologize for jacking the thread but coding is something you do to change the software. You might increase boost by reprogramming the way the injectors/wastegates work, but you don't solve a window regulator problem by re-programming the way the window works. You're correct that stored values may have been corrupted, but that's a "reset" or initialization - kind of like rebooting your smart phone when it freezes up. An initialization is sometimes the last step in a repair job.

Doubt a tech would replace a window regulator without good reason - ie: a code or some kind of test that indicated bad regulator.

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by edrive90

I apologize for jacking the thread but coding is something you do to change the software. You might increase boost by reprogramming the way the injectors/wastegates work, but you don't solve a window regulator problem by re-programming the way the window works. You're correct that stored values may have been corrupted, but that's a "reset" or initialization - kind of like rebooting your smart phone when it freezes up. An initialization is sometimes the last step in a repair job.

Doubt a tech would replace a window regulator without good reason - ie: a code or some kind of test that indicated bad regulator.

I'm not sure where you're going with that. It's not exactly coding, but the windows CAN be re-initialized, and if the pinch detector is acting over-sensitive, that's an obvious first remedy to try. Of course, it's more likely that the motor or drive assembly are messed up, requiring replacement AND re-initialization. But then, apparently milo's problem wasn't fixed by the drive replacement. So we can conclude that SOME piece of the diagnosis was incorrect, and it stands to reason that it's the most obvios piece.

[mr_milo]

Guys I am very sorry my statement got this thread so OT. To end this, here is simply what happen...

1. Car originally had coding version 2.39.0. With this version the front and rear windows closed at the same time. Often when closing all four windows the pinch protection would go off and one or both front windows would roll half way down.
   
2. Took the car to the dealer and explained the problem. I do not believe they were able to duplicate it but changed the driver's window motor/regulator, tested and called it good. That same night I had the problem on the passenger side and two days later on both sides. The problem clearly was not the motor/regulator and was not fixed.
   
3. Gave up with the 1st dealer due to several issues and took the car to a different dealer for my next service. Again explained all the issues and let them at it. For the window, they specifically updated my car's coding to 2.46.1 in order to fix the window issue. According to my SA this was a known fix for the window issue. Ever since the issue has not occurred and I believe it is now solved. *I believe* the reasoning for it working properly is a new sequence of operation. My windows now do not close at the same time when rolling up all four. The front windows close 1-2 seconds before the rears. Previously they seems to all close at the same time.

The point is techs F**K up replacing things or just do stupid shit all the time. Here is an example of what another Brainiac did to my car in order to fix a squeak in the top. Needless to say it made things worst and I'm still working on getting that resolved. Point is shit happens... If you want to comment please do it on the thread in my link so we can keep this thread about the recall.

By the way, I'm still waiting on that recall letter myself. Half wondering if that's where my battery discharge issues are coming from..... but that is yet a whole other issue.

[ez_2get]

Originally Posted by KSERGEI-BY

Bmw screwed once agein with this cable. Last time-e60 had issues, some of them even burned due to that.

This is probably incredibly hard for the marketing department to make proper positive cable. Engeneers are needed f for that.

Can someone chime in if this positive battery cable issue can actually cause fire? Any links floating around? I received the recall letter from BMW 2 days back, and i am trying to see if this recall was the cause of the FIRE that engulf my car this January. That's right. My car is now gone due to fire.

Here's the story. Had my battery replaced by my dealership on Oct, 2012. BMW tech told me (and it was on the printed report as well) that there was an error on the ISTA test (abnormal current draw) when he placed the brand new battery. Tech advised me to observe if the new battery will become weak and if it does, that I have to return the car to them so they can diagnose further.

Suffice to say, no signs of the new battery getting weak. Car is used everyday for mostly short commute (w/ a few trips over to US). Car caught fire on January, 2013 (roughly 2.5 mos after new battery was installed) after about 5 minutes after I left my driveway early in the AM. I was driving when I smelled something burning. Few minutes thereafter, I saw fire coming out of the top of the right rear passenger seat, by the pillar. Below that is where the battery is placed. I pulled over, stop the engine, and tried to put the flame out, but to no avail.

So, firemen came to the rescue. RCMP (local police) investigated. ICBC (insurance) called me after few days saying the investigation showed that the fire started from the battery compartment at the back, most likely caused by battery paraphernalia failure (or something to that effect).

Insurance (ICBC) did their part, but due to other losses not paid for by ICBC though purchase receipts were provided by me (dashcam, new tire and geomet slotted/drilled rotors w/ red pads all replaced Dec, 2012, etc.) and the fact it subjected myself to danger (plus anxiety, etc. etc.), I contacted my dealership's service manager to see what they can do re losses not paid for by ICBC.

After a few email exchanges, the expected push-back was exercised by the service manager, and he said:

"I have reviewed your work order when the battery was replaced. The power management fault that was stored is usually caused by a weak battery or a possible problem from the charging system or control unit. There is no possibility of this causing a fire or anything close to this. The worst that would happen is the car wouldn’t start."

Now since I got this recall letter re Power Supply System, would you guys think this will give me leverage to push my cause? What are my chances?

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by mr_milo

To end this, here is simply what happen... If you want to comment please do it on the thread in my link so we can keep this thread about the recall.

lol that's the way to shut me up when I get OT. good post, and good luck with your battery.

[ChasVS]

Haven't gotten mine yet. Mine is a May 07 E92. I believe this is involved isn't it? I have CPO/Extended Warranty and need to get this in for s few things by May so I'm hoping to get the Notice SOON! Don't want to have to go in for the Warranty work and then do this separately!

[CitrusE92]

Just got my service done. No issues to report with the service itself. Wasn't experiencing any electrical problems to begin with.

Got a 2012 328i M-Sport Coupe as a loaner. Sweet ride and much more fun that I thought it would be. And I was in love with the thicker M-Sport steering wheel.

Dealer put a scratch in my door, but was able to buff it out.

[Monster900]

Originally Posted by edrive90

How is the injector connected in any way with this recall?

It's not, I was just making a reference to similar situation, that's all.

[JCL]

Originally Posted by nukezero

So do I need to worry about my Cobb flash? Can I specifically ask the dealer NOT to reprogram the DME or touch the diagnostic port in any way? Just do the recall and leave everything else alone.

Anyone know?

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by ChasVS

Haven't gotten mine yet. Mine is a May 07 E92. I believe this is involved isn't it? I have CPO/Extended Warranty and need to get this in for s few things by May so I'm hoping to get the Notice SOON! Don't want to have to go in for the Warranty work and then do this separately!

You don't need a notification letter. Schedule your appointment and tell them you also want the recall work performed.

[Agentphish]

Had mine done this morning....now back at the dealer again this afternoon. Been waiting about 45 minutes so far...my date/time and some other computer functions aren't working at all. At least they got me back in.

I'll post again when I know what the hell happened by them replacing the battery cable connector.