[studio54]

Originally Posted by lisabosken

I see what you're saying and I will look into that. Thank you!

But why isn't my WGDC going higher than 65% to compensate for the leak? Especially in the higher RPMs

I am also interested in this question, but from what i read, when you are out of the spool mode that will make 90-100 of wgdc during spool only, the MHD tune will never go in the higher range than 65-70 of WGDC or something higher even if you have a boost leak, it's because of the PID table that Sgop335 talked 3 or 4 pages ago i think, but i am maybe wrong.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by studio54

I am also interested in this question, but from what i read, when you are out of the spool mode that will make 90-100 of wgdc during spool only, the MHD tune will never go in the higher range than 65-70 of WGDC or something higher even if you have a boost leak, it's because of the PID table that Sgop335 talked 3 or 4 pages ago i think, but i am maybe wrong.

I think lisaboskens car is a n55. There may be experts in the n55 section. But the above may be still applicable. Basically pfactor tables have higher values at lower rpm resulting in higher wgdc response at lower rpm

[Ejnobody]

https://datazap.me/u/ejnobody/log-15...og=0&data=3-21

Stock. No flash. 09 335I Xdrive
Recently bought. 135k miles
Very rough idle cold. No codes thrown
Compression test - all between 165 and 170
Replaced spark plugs
Full tank of Sunoco 93
Now getting long cranks when warm
Checked plugs in moronig. No strong fuel smell. Cyl. 5 smelled like stale fuel
Plugs for Cyl. 1,3,5 black/sooty. 2,4,6 clean

Looking at log:
3rd gear pull
Only took it up to 5k
Timing pulled cyl. 1&4 (-3*)
Fuel pumps look ok
Bank 1 running richer than 2
Slow to get to 234

...Still suspecting bad injectors (Currently Index 11)

What do you think?

All help greatly appreciated!!!!

[1897]

Originally Posted by dreyo27

Its hard to tell from that.
to do a proper log,
Step 1 (go somewhere were you can go from 40mph to north of 100MPH) if you are going to do it on the street go to Mexico
Step 2 disable traction control
Step 3 put your car in 3rd gear and make sure it stays there.
Step 4 press the log button on your device
Step 5 start from 2000 RPMS in 3rd gear and go WOT until you hit 6000-7000 RPMS while still being in 3rd gear.

I live just outside of NYC and there's not anyplace nearby I can run WOT in 3rd gear until 6500rpm safely. Possibly could do it a 5am on Sunday morning but even then there's traffic - and cops.

Is there any issues with the data you record doing the log in 2nd gear instead of 3rd?

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by Ejnobody

https://datazap.me/u/ejnobody/log-15...og=0&data=3-21

Stock. No flash. 09 335I Xdrive
Recently bought. 135k miles
Very rough idle cold. No codes thrown
Compression test - all between 165 and 170
Replaced spark plugs
Full tank of Sunoco 93
Now getting long cranks when warm
Checked plugs in moronig. No strong fuel smell. Cyl. 5 smelled like stale fuel
Plugs for Cyl. 1,3,5 black/sooty. 2,4,6 clean

Looking at log:
3rd gear pull
Only took it up to 5k
Timing pulled cyl. 1&4 (-3*)
Fuel pumps look ok
Bank 1 running richer than 2
Slow to get to 234

...Still suspecting bad injectors (Currently Index 11)

What do you think?

All help greatly appreciated!!!!

Long crank usually mean failing HPFP.
Black sooty plugs along with rough idle most likely mean your pre-cat o2 sensors are faulty, specifically the bank with the sooty plugs. This coincides with the bank 1 rich condition you are seeing. If you replace one might as well replaced both as you will be working in that area anyways.
AFR slow to get to fuel cut off (234) might just mean the injectors are "lazy", since you have already confirmed they aren't leaking I would suspect this. If you want to fork out for new index 12 injectors this will most likely solve the problem but this issue wont affect performance.

[ludoN54]

what do you guys think about it ? MHD stage 2, catless DP, DCI
https://datazap.me/u/ludovic-poviac/...og=0&data=3-21

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by ludoN54

what do you guys think about it ? MHD stage 2, catless DP, DCI
https://datazap.me/u/ludovic-poviac/...og=0&data=3-21

Holy shit, get better FMIC. I have never seen iat's that high.

[ludoN54]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Holy shit, get better FMIC. I have never seen iat's that high.

I think I have IC issue or sensor
I have a friend with same setup and seeing way colder IAT

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by ludoN54

I think I have IC issue or sensor
I have a friend with same setup and seeing way colder IAT

If you have the stock FMIC, you should consider upgrading.

As a comparison, my stock FMIC hit about 150 under one pull and that would take a good few minutes of driving to bring temps back.

When I had a 5" upgrading FMIC I would not rely go over 130, and now with a 7" Race, I don't see higher then 10 above ambient.

[ludoN54]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

If you have the stock FMIC, you should consider upgrading.

As a comparison, my stock FMIC hit about 150 under one pull and that would take a good few minutes of driving to bring temps back.

When I had a 5" upgrading FMIC I would not rely go over 130, and now with a 7" Race, I don't see higher then 10 above ambient.

I live in the Caribbean and it's really hot here
That could explain why
But don't worry, already have the 7.5 VRSF, just didn't install yet

[MEN54]

Originally Posted by Jerain

Stage 2+ will be the best option but no MHD OTS will work 100% bc of your inlets... When you do that you should get a custom tune from let's say Wedge...

So you are saying inlets and outlets will be useless if i used MHD OTS Maps?

If above is correct, then i will only upgrade DPs to catted DPs and run stage2+.

With above mods minus inlets/outlets, which route i should go from there to add more power and stay on stock turbos?

How about MHD stage 2+ and upgrade fuel pump or install methenol stage1 kit?

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by ludoN54

I live in the Caribbean and it's really hot here
That could explain why
But don't worry, already have the 7.5 VRSF, just didn't install yet

Oh yeah, that is the problem then. Get the 7.5 on and you should be running like a champion.

[HB E90]

One benefit to this covid 19 pandemic makes it easier to do some logging since the traffic is gone. Just a couple of logs to monitor things.
3rd gear pull https://datazap.me/u/curt/90-2-e30-3...15-22-23-24-26

2nd to 3rd - a bit more timing corrections mostly after the shift?
https://datazap.me/u/curt/90-2-e30-3...-9-10-11-12-22

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by Neg89

Hello. Can someone please can take a look. What is the presure drop after spiking most alike? Leak,DVs?

https://datazap.me/u/ng/mhd-stage-2

It looks like the map is kinda low on boost for an S2. IT doenst even get close to 15psi until 5th gear. I guess you were rolling pretty good by then. Trims look ok. It seems a bit rich really. You're in vegas? Im not sure what to make of the boost levels in lower gears.

[Brandyn.H]

Can anyone explain to me what's up with my boost. Car still pulls but not quite right.

WGDC info looks whack to me

https://datazap.me/u/brandyn/e50-sta...7-8-9-10-11-23

[ludoN54]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Oh yeah, that is the problem then. Get the 7.5 on and you should be running like a champion.

https://datazap.me/u/ludovic-poviac/...1&data=3-14-21

[Bimerfest3]

Hello
i have too many timing correction especially when iat is over 90, and if u can see stft are jumping up and down(stft are positive more then negative), and afr on bank 1 is not reaching immediately 234 after letting off the gas pedal. Injectors, sparks plugs, and coils are newly changed and coded. what could the problem be? rail pressure?? octane?

https://datazap.me/u/georgesfeg/3rd-...0&data=2-21-22

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Brandyn.H

Can anyone explain to me what's up with my boost. Car still pulls but not quite right.

WGDC info looks whack to me

https://datazap.me/u/brandyn/e50-sta...7-8-9-10-11-23

Boost leak

Originally Posted by Bimerfest3

Hello
i have too many timing correction especially when iat is over 90, and if u can see stft are jumping up and down(stft are positive more then negative), and afr on bank 1 is not reaching immediately 234 after letting off the gas pedal. Injectors, sparks plugs, and coils are newly changed and coded. what could the problem be? rail pressure?? octane?

https://datazap.me/u/georgesfeg/3rd-...0&data=2-21-22

Its low octane. Also during spool where there is lot of corrections, you have relatively high boost but running lean...

[Brandyn.H]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Boost leak

I only get this problem under WOT. It spools fine up to 10 PSI under lower load

But I can check again for boost leaks. Is it possible the turbos are bad, or it's a vacuum leak?

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Brandyn.H

I only get this problem under WOT. It spools fine up to 10 PSI under lower load

But I can check again for boost leaks. Is it possible the turbos are bad, or it's a vacuum leak?

Yes vacuum leaks can cause underboost, as the boost solenoids use vacuum to open/close turbos.
Turbos sure, i have replaced them on my 335i and 535i...depends on miles, age etc

[F13.KENN]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Fix your sensors. It is not possible to diagnose tuning issues without doing that.

FWIW, the log looks terrible with timing corrections on multiple cylinders and significant underboost by 1.5-3psi. I've never seen STFTs bounce up and down to the extent yours do. Slow and incomplete rebound of Bank 1 AFR at throttle liftoff suggests dead/dying bank 1 pre-cat sensor. That's probably consistent with the codes you allude to, although other explanations are possible.

I wouldn't drive this car, certainly not at full throttle.

Next time, provide the actual codes and list your mods. In addition, for future logs, don't bother with second gear. 2500-6500 rpm in third and hold through 4th as long as safety permits. Finally, upgrade to v9 maps.

But first, before anything else, address the O2 codes

Fixed my o2 sensor codes. Was caused by a downpipe fix that was installed and left in 2 owners ago after being returned to stock.. shouldve checked this much sooner. Car still under boost. Have new vacuum lines coming in soon as these are 150k miles old and look really bad. Probably going to buy boost solenoids soon too as they are also probably 150k miles old. Will post a log when all is done

[Bimerfest3]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Boost leak


Its low octane. Also during spool where there is lot of corrections, you have relatively high boost but running lean...

i dint know what is the problem causing too much corrections. tune maybe?
and what about afr on bank 1. thank you very much