[StarThreat]

Hi all, I am new to the platform and looking to properly maintain this one for a while so I think logging my car to see it's performance would be a key component to see what's on its way out and such.

Is there a general thread for beginner's guide to logging? I'd like to know more about the topic in general. I currently have a custom tune on the car, can I still log using MHD without using any of the tunes they provide? What licenses would I have to buy?

Thanks ahead of time.

[e92Eli]

Hey guys I had stage 1 MHD tune for a few months, then all at once did FBO and upgraded to Stage 2+. I can definitely tell a difference obviously. But when I rip it, from 3k RPMs In 3rd gear then shift to 4th at 6,500-ish (AutoTrans) I get a boost leak code, but only when I rip it like that. Idk if its just my turbos are worn out and wont hit that or if I have a boost leak or what. Mabye someone can take a peak at my logs. https://datazap.me/u/elinasty/help?log=0&data=3-22

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by mueed_mo88

Hi, first of wanna say thanks for takin the time to look at it. I was looking at some of the other Stage 2 datalogs and some were targeting 1-2 psi higher so I was concerned. Everything else looking good though? The cars oil temp regularly sits at 240-250 degrees Fahrenheit. FMIC Is coming and I'll post updated logs then.

240-250f is normal for N54 engines. I'm on stage 1 and oil temps are between 110 C to 120 C.

You could reduce it with uprated oil cooler.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by e92Eli

Hey guys I had stage 1 MHD tune for a few months, then all at once did FBO and upgraded to Stage 2+. I can definitely tell a difference obviously. But when I rip it, from 3k RPMs In 3rd gear then shift to 4th at 6,500-ish (AutoTrans) I get a boost leak code, but only when I rip it like that. Idk if its just my turbos are worn out and wont hit that or if I have a boost leak or what. Mabye someone can take a peak at my logs. https://datazap.me/u/elinasty/help?log=0&data=3-22

Have you replaced all vacumn lines, checked vacumn cannisters for cracks especially around nipple connection points , checked charge pipe connection and intercooler connections, as well as boost Solenoids?

Turbos do look like they are struggling to hit boost targets, but you want to eliminate all other possibilities before jumping to turbos.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by mkolankowski

https://datazap.me/u/mkolankowski/lo...0&data=3-22-28

Would anyone care to take a look at my log running an e30ish blend on a stage 2+ map mods are

Vrsf dp catback and chargepipe, tial bov, ,motiv flex fuel kit, mishimoto intercooler,1 step colder plugs, delphi coils, 3.5 bar map sensor, spool stage 2 bucketless lpfp, and bms dci

More can be desired of the intercooler.
Otherwise good log (other than starting at high rpm), impressed w the wgdc ...kinda low. Im about 5 points more....any reason?

[mkolankowski]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

More can be desired of the intercooler.
Otherwise good log (other than starting at high rpm), impressed w the wgdc ...kinda low. Im about 5 points more....any reason?

I am planning on getting a new more efficient intercooler. I started the log right at 2800 like I was told to. I am running an OTS map so I don’t know about the wgdc the only thing I did was set it to 50% for the rattle fix.

[mueed_mo88]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

240-250f is normal for N54 engines. I'm on stage 1 and oil temps are between 110 C to 120 C.

You could reduce it with uprated oil cooler.

Originally Posted by Saif2018

240-250f is normal for N54 engines. I'm on stage 1 and oil temps are between 110 C to 120 C.

You could reduce it with uprated oil cooler.

Wouldve thought the IS should done with the whole cooling thing guess not 🤦🏼*♂️, def will look into an oil cooler cuz I def beat on my car it's going to be its first summer modded

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by mueed_mo88

Wouldve thought the IS should done with the whole cooling thing guess not 🤦🏼*♂️, def will look into an oil cooler cuz I def beat on my car it's going to be its first summer modded

Setting cooling target to Sport in MHD will also reduce engine temps, but it will work your electric waterpump harder.

Unless you are in s country with extreme summer heat and or tracking it, you probably won't need oil cooler upgrade.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691477

I beat on my car often too and its never overheated. Temps max out at just under 120 C and then cools down to about 110 C.

[mueed_mo88]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Setting cooling target to Sport in MHD will also reduce engine temps, but it will work your electric waterpump harder.

Unless you are in s country with extreme summer heat and or tracking it, you probably won't need oil cooler upgrade.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691477

I beat on my car often too and its never overheated. Temps max out at just under 120 C and then cools down to about 110 C.

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Setting cooling target to Sport in MHD will also reduce engine temps, but it will work your electric waterpump harder.

Unless you are in s country with extreme summer heat and or tracking it, you probably won't need oil cooler upgrade.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691477

I beat on my car often too and its never overheated. Temps max out at just under 120 C and then cools down to about 110 C.

Def gonna try that out, Is that any different the "max cool mode" or whatever it's called on the last page of the MHD Flasher? I had the water pump done on my car I wanna say 5k miles ago so I might just keep it on for the summer time. Thanks!

[Boosted_Bavarian]

How ya doin��
*Side Note Iv Been Having rough idle after MHD Flash*
Post Shift timing corrections scare me. Consistently Cyl #4
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Stg2+ v8 *Burble Med*
https://datazap.me/u/boostedbavarian...og=0&data=3-22

Stg0
https://datazap.me/u/boostedbavarian...og=0&data=3-22

08 335i 6AT
93oct
Index 12 25k miles ago
Fresh Walnut Blast
Smoke Tested Monday
Brand New Eldor Coils
Brand New ngk 97506 .022
Bucketed Boost Concept Stg2 Pump
VRSF CP
HKS BOV
VRSF 7.5 IC
VRSF DPs
AFE Stg2 Intake

[sherazkn]

Originally Posted by Jerain

Boost and timing look horrible... Boost/vaccuum problems and bad gas...

I got a better BOV spring and upgraded my intake vaccum to bov line. Also installed the FMIC and turned it to JB4 MHD BEF.

Looking better or still could improve?

Here's the log

https://datazap.me/u/sherazkn/fbo-pull?log=0&data=1-4

Thanks

[N54issues]

Hi
Can anybody see something wrong in this log ?

https://datazap.me/u/n54issues/log-1590029754

I got unknown dps , afe intake, spec 2 clutch / sm flywheel and this log came of a stage 2+ 2007 e92 rwd
Under heavy wot, between 3.5 - 5k rpm it kinda lags a little.

Got a exhaust vanos code today that was never there before
Only code i used to have before was a post cat o2 heater activation

Thanks for help

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by mueed_mo88

Def gonna try that out, Is that any different the "max cool mode" or whatever it's called on the last page of the MHD Flasher? I had the water pump done on my car I wanna say 5k miles ago so I might just keep it on for the summer time. Thanks!

Not sure what the purpose of the Max Cool on the fly mode is, to be honest, I'd ask MHD.

No worries.

[Ilma]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Not sure what the purpose of the Max Cool on the fly mode is, to be honest, I'd ask MHD.

No worries.

It's for people who drag race and their intercoolers and radiators heatsoak while waiting in the staging area......it provides forced mechanical airflow while the car is standing still in order to bring operating temps down.

Probably not something you would want to run all the time. Have you ever listened to your radiator fan at full blast?

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Ilma

It's for people who drag race and their intercoolers and radiators heatsoak while waiting in the staging area......it provides forced mechanical airflow while the car is standing still in order to bring operating temps down.

Probably not something you would want to run all the time. Have you ever listened to your radiator fan at full blast?

Yup, as said it is pretty much only for drag racers or track people. It turns your fan on full blast

[Godzilx]

I'm consistently hitting 2-3psi under target and was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction to fix this. Wondering if it's a boost leak or bad wastegates as they're rattling a lot. I'm running an E30 mix on stage 1+. Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated.


https://datazap.me/u/godzilx/e30-har...=1&mark=54

[cristy7610]

Could anyone here take a look on my log, stage 2+ 93OCT, my car is FBO + inlets, LPFP Stage 2 Wallbro 450, and I have this timing corrections on Cyl 4 and the graph on LPFP is not linear at all..I just need another opinion regarding this, so please take a look and tell me if my LPFP and injector are bad...no errors whatsoever, everything is running smoothly, only this correction...Sometimes I got the error message in I-drive, (2AA Fuel pump plausibility in MHD) when I floor it in 6th gear regarding the fuel pump, but from what I heard this error message is relating to EKPM module, or not?

Thanks in advance.
https://datazap.me/u/cristy7610/mhd-...=0&data=3-7-22

[akk]

can someone take a look at my log pls, this was a 3rd gear pull, e92 n55 335xi , mhd 1+.

I'm very new to this but from reading forum posts, I think there's something off with my boost target and actual ,(maybe logging error?), and timing corrections. maybe something else I didnt notice, but any feedback is greatly appreciated.

log:

https://datazap.me/u/akkorolyov/mhd-...og=0&data=3-13

[Ilma]

Originally Posted by akk

can someone take a look at my log pls, this was a 3rd gear pull, e92 n55 335xi , mhd 1+.

I'm very new to this but from reading forum posts, I think there's something off with my boost target and actual ,(maybe logging error?), and timing corrections. maybe something else I didnt notice, but any feedback is greatly appreciated.

log:

https://datazap.me/u/akkorolyov/mhd-...og=0&data=3-13

Log looks good to me except for two things:

1) You rev'd out over 7K rpms

2) Your WGDC is way too high for 13-14 psi of boost (around 80% duty cycle from 5800 rpm up)

It might be a small boost leak but You are meeting boost target so I don't think it's a boost leak - it may be a leak on the vacuum side of the boost management system. Either your vacuum lines are cracked or the boost solenoids may be going bad or the vacuum cannisters might be cracked.

I had a similar problem with one of the vacuum lines attaching to the rear boost solenoid....it had split open right on the nipple connection of the solenoid and was facing towards the engine block - so impossible to see.

The boost solenoid was not able to generate enough vacuum with the leaking line so the wgdc kept escalating in order to compensate.

With a boost leak, you would most likely not be meeting your boost target AND also have a high wgdc.

In your case you just have the one symptom - not both.

Easy enough to check all your vacuum lines so you should probably do that first.

[akk]

Originally Posted by Ilma

Log looks good to me except for two things:

1) You rev'd out over 7K rpms

2) Your WGDC is way too high for 13-14 psi of boost (around 80% duty cycle from 5800 rpm up)

It might be a small boost leak but You are meeting boost target so I don't think it's a boost leak - it may be a leak on the vacuum side of the boost management system. Either your vacuum lines are cracked or the boost solenoids may be going bad or the vacuum cannisters might be cracked.

I had a similar problem with one of the vacuum lines attaching to the rear boost solenoid....it had split open right on the nipple connection of the solenoid and was facing towards the engine block - so impossible to see.

The boost solenoid was not able to generate enough vacuum with the leaking line so the wgdc kept escalating in order to compensate.

With a boost leak, you would most likely not be meeting your boost target AND also have a high wgdc.

In your case you just have the one symptom - not both.

Easy enough to check all your vacuum lines so you should probably do that first.

Thank you! Yeah, ill do that when i take all the plastic apart for spark plugs..
Not sure if outside temp would affect anything related to boost and wastegate, but it was around 30 celcius out.

Do you see any issues with timing? It seems like cyl 5 and 6 are being corrected, not sure how severe it is though.

[Ilma]

Originally Posted by akk

Thank you! Yeah, ill do that when i take all the plastic apart for spark plugs..
Not sure if outside temp would affect anything related to boost and wastegate, but it was around 30 celcius out.

Do you see any issues with timing? It seems like cyl 5 and 6 are being corrected, not sure how severe it is though.

Timing looks good. That single correction on cyls 5&6 is quite within norms for our engines especially given it was almost 90F out yesterday.

Your correction is only 2.7 degrees of timing pulled out and it immediately recovers upwards for the rest of the pull so that is a good sign that you are not knocking repeatedly within the same pull.

If you don't find a vacuum leak, then it could be a minor boost leak or your turbo is getting old and wastegates not sealing entirely as well. But either way, checking the vacuum lines is the easiest to start with. If that checks out then go over your intercooler and chargepipe connections for a loose clamp or other visible sign of a leaking clamp. Diverter valves have been known to leak as well.

Your intake temps got up to 124F......that's about 40F above ambient.....do you have an aftermarket intercooler?

[akk]

Originally Posted by Ilma

Timing looks good. That single correction on cyls 5&6 is quite within norms for our engines especially given it was almost 90F out yesterday.

Your correction is only 2.7 degrees of timing pulled out and it immediately recovers upwards for the rest of the pull so that is a good sign that you are not knocking repeatedly within the same pull.

If you don't find a vacuum leak, then it could be a minor boost leak or your turbo is getting old and wastegates not sealing entirely as well. But either way, checking the vacuum lines is the easiest to start with. If that checks out then go over your intercooler and chargepipe connections for a loose clamp or other visible sign of a leaking clamp. Diverter valves have been known to leak as well.

Your intake temps got up to 124F......that's about 40F above ambient.....do you have an aftermarket intercooler?

Awesome explanation, thank you again! It very well could be the intercooler connections, because visually it looks like the previous owner installed an aftermarket intercooler on the car - i assume this because it doesnt have plastic boxes on the sides, but is all metal. No idea about the size or brand. Is there a way to find out? If i took off the plastic shield off the bottom of the engine bay or the bumper, would I see any markings on it? Maybe I shouldn't be running stage 1+...