[eljay]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Nice. Can’t wait!

Well, you can be my first subscriber on my way to influencer stardom and I promise you a ride in that Ferrari I will eventually be able to buy, I'm sure.

Here comes the pretty random World Premiere episode of eljay's garage!

Getting my ST X coilover set ready:

Assembling the front coilover strut stack before installation:

Enjoy! I do hope these help some folks who like me had all the "stupid" questions before diving in.
As I post more videos that I already have, I definitely would welcome feedback about them, so when I get a chance to do more, I can improve them and make most of the little time I have and not waste anyone's time watching them. Therefore, you won't see titles like "You must watch this before you do anything on your E90!"

[M3_Legend]

Looking forward for the rear end refresh. My e91 was a Vermont car it's whole life and the rear sub and arms are in bad shape. Planing on doing the same next summer to mines. How do you like the 335i brakes ?

[eljay]

Originally Posted by M3_Legend

Looking forward for the rear end refresh. My e91 was a Vermont car it's whole life and the rear sub and arms are in bad shape. Planing on doing the same next summer to mines. How do you like the 335i brakes ?

First, that's a very nice history in your signature! A true E9x addict! And I have no idea how you managed to find two E90 M3s as they are quite a rare thing as I'm sure you know!

335i brakes work very well on the E91 and made a big difference from the stock items.

It sounds like you are embarking on a similar fun adventure of fighting with a rusty bottom end, but it is a worthwhile effort.

Here's a starter tip:

[M3_Legend]

Thank you so much for the compliment and yes I love the E9X chassis,hopefully I can get an E28 or E30 is the future but will be after I finally buy a house. I love your attention to detail, keep it coming.

Have you seen Redish Motorsport on YouTube amazing work!! Too bad they are in the Uk.

[eljay]

Yes, those guys are great! That's certainly a proper restoration, but beyond my available time or desire.

[Peter Morrin]

Hello Guys,
I am going to jump in as I bought Eljay's extra sub-frame last summer and brought it back to Ontario. I am about to start at it with the wire-brush and 3M flap discs. I watched the video from the UK restoration shop and wanted to ask/comment on his reference to a wax-based anti-corrosion product. There used to be a wax type product called Waxol??? that was referenced in an old body repair manual, but nothing about either Krown or Rust-Check that I have used since 1986. I have not seen these products in America which I find odd as they have been extremely effective on my vehicles and rust knows no boundaries!

I plan on priming the suf-frame and applying POR-15 or one of Eastwood's chassis products. I wanted to ask about the sub-frame bushings you chose and whether you replaced all the other bushings in the hubs.

I also want to congratulate Eljay on the video's. Simple but very clear and well laid-out.

Peter

Peter

[Tambohamilton]

Waxoyl is a thing over here, and it's useless. I think it was the standard for many years, and is still most widely available, seemingly. Avoid. Stick with the POR15 products, or maybe equivalent from bilt hamber etc. Remember that primer is what it says, and is not a finished coating.

I went with OE M3 rsfb, and monoballs for all other joints where they're a direct fit. Happy with it, generally.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

Hello Guys,
I am going to jump in as I bought Eljay's extra sub-frame last summer and brought it back to Ontario. I am about to start at it with the wire-brush and 3M flap discs. I watched the video from the UK restoration shop and wanted to ask/comment on his reference to a wax-based anti-corrosion product. There used to be a wax type product called Waxol??? that was referenced in an old body repair manual, but nothing about either Krown or Rust-Check that I have used since 1986. I have not seen these products in America which I find odd as they have been extremely effective on my vehicles and rust knows no boundaries!

I plan on priming the suf-frame and applying POR-15 or one of Eastwood's chassis products. I wanted to ask about the sub-frame bushings you chose and whether you replaced all the other bushings in the hubs.

I also want to congratulate Eljay on the video's. Simple but very clear and well laid-out.

Peter

Peter

Ha, you're too kind, Peter!
I need to learn some video editing skills! Many ideas, but lack of time to post even the raw versions.

As Tambo suggests, stick with POR15 plan. That seals it for good. Waxyol, FluidFilm etc. are really treatments you do after to prevent rust or to slow it down if you cannot coat a part.

For bushings, I went crazy and replaced pretty much everything. For subframe bushings, I used Whiteline full poly bushings and I am very happy with them still.

[Peter Morrin]

This is old news for Eljay, but for those in the UK or America, we have two very effective rust proofing solutions that are used in the rust belts of Canada.

One is called Krown, the other Rust Check. Both are penetrants that creep, and both need to be applied annually. A professional treatment, including the cars body cavities, is about $100 USD per year. If a car is treated from new, they will elimate structural corrossion or panel perforation for 50 years of driving winter salted roads. I have personally used them since 1986.

Both products are also available in aerosol cans from Canadian Tire (a National hardware/automotive retailer). Rust Check also has a "green" can product that they sell for farm and industrial machinery. This product has a fine clay added which makes the film very sticky (but it does not creep as well). I use the penetrant on all joints and body seams and then spray the clay product on surfaces subject to direct salt spray (inside wheel wells). Both products attract dirt, but can be cleaned with automotive soap or in the worst case Dawn dish soap.

As stated, these are not a replacement for properly painted components. They will help preserve aluminum or galvanized steel components.

I have not seen either product in the US or UK, so you will have to come for a visit and bring some home!

[silverclub25]

@eljay. how are you enjoying the ST X coilovers on your E91? in the market to refresh my e91 Xdrive suspension as well. thanks!

[eljay]

Originally Posted by silverclub25

@eljay. how are you enjoying the ST X coilovers on your E91? in the market to refresh my e91 Xdrive suspension as well. thanks!

I really like it.
The handling is great and it's still comfortable enough dor me. I would say it's right on the edge of comfort for me. Anything firmer would be too much.
If you want a truly adjustable coilover, get the KW V1 version. ST becomes unadjustable after one East Coast winter. 😉

[silverclub25]

Originally Posted by eljay

I really like it.
The handling is great and it's still comfortable enough dor me. I would say it's right on the edge of comfort for me. Anything firmer would be too much.
If you want a truly adjustable coilover, get the KW V1 version. ST becomes unadjustable after one East Coast winter. 😉

not too worried about the east coast winters. FCP got my back haha but also i wash down the under side every month with a undercarriage pressure washer attachment. my car is from the west coast its whole life and will be keeping up the clean undercarriage to the best of my abilities.

[eljay]

Well, I'm slowly getting around to M Sport body conversion and the question of the day is:
I have an OEM front M Sport bumper that will be going to a body shop for a re-spray. I am keeping my headlight washer system, so I need the shop to do cut out the holes for it and I will also get them to delete/blend the side markers.
My question is whether I should attempt to retrofit front PDC. That is, should I get them to punch out the holes for the sensors for me.
I currently have only rear PDC, so I would need to source new module that supports the front, plus sensors, wiring harness, front PDC button, AND different front rebar that accommodates the sensors behind M Sport bumper. So, I am just contemplating whether that is worthwhile effort for the outcome.

Anyone with front PDC care to comment on its usefulness? I know I'd want it in many parking situations and, especially with a new fresh front bumper. But I also hope to fit a cheap front camera in the kidney grille and connect it to my rear cam aftermarket module. I just don't know how well it will work in practice (when it switches on etc.)

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by eljay

Well, I'm slowly getting around to M Sport body conversion and the question of the day is:
I have an OEM front M Sport bumper that will be going to a body shop for a re-spray. I am keeping my headlight washer system, so I need the shop to do cut out the holes for it and I will also get them to delete/blend the side markers.
My question is whether I should attempt to retrofit front PDC. That is, should I get them to punch out the holes for the sensors for me.
I currently have only rear PDC, so I would need to source new module that supports the front, plus sensors, wiring harness, front PDC button, AND different front rebar that accommodates the sensors behind M Sport bumper. So, I am just contemplating whether that is worthwhile effort for the outcome.

Anyone with front PDC care to comment on its usefulness? I know I'd want it in many parking situations and, especially with a new fresh front bumper. But I also hope to fit a cheap front camera in the kidney grille and connect it to my rear cam aftermarket module. I just don't know how well it will work in practice (when it switches on etc.)

My E91 has PDC in the front, and I don't find it particularly useful.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

My E91 has PDC in the front, and I don't find it particularly useful.

Thank you.
Yes, I have added up all the parts I'd need to chase down and also thought about keeping the bumper look clean without the sensors.
I think I'll just get a front view camera right now.

[Tambohamilton]

My e91 doesn't have front PDC, and occasionally I drive into things... That said, it does have rear PDC, and I've still reversed into things! I don't miss the front PDC though. These things just happen when I'm being hasty/lazy.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

My e91 doesn't have front PDC, and occasionally I drive into things... That said, it does have rear PDC, and I've still driven into things! I don't miss the front PDC though. These things just happen when I'm being hasty/lazy.

Well, the thought of installing a targeting system instead of obstacle avoidance system did occur to me!
So far, I've managed to avoid things with my E91. With my Audi, I did once move a small planter, but no harm done. It gave me ideas for a snowplow attachment!

[eljay]

Well, here we go. Pull up a chair, a cozy blanket and a nice cup of warm milk boys and girls... I will attempt to write a diary that is 2 years late. It will be fun.
I think a suitable title for this entry is "FOR THE LOVE OF E91!!!"
----------------------------

In the spring of 2021, I started with a goal of a simple suspension refresh to install ST X coilovers.



As I began inspecting the underside, I kept finding more and more things to replace and rust to remove, so things escalated and little did I know that the car will be resting on the lift for good 5 months.

Here's what I starred at and it starred back at me and I did not like, not one bit...









The battle began.
And key victory happened: The rear subframe was out!







And what was hiding behind it:



As mentioned before, I manage to find a very low mileage and rust-free complete rear subframe!



So, it was time to remediate the rust:


And begin the reassembly with shiny new parts. Regular bushings came out and Whiteline black bushings in.


I used a bushing press set from Canadian Tire, which you can rent for free.


And sometimes, I had to get creative...


The result was well worth it!


The low mileage subframe came complete with axles and hubs, so I used those:




And put it all back to its home



And after 3 months, I almost saw the light of day...



almost... stay tuned for the next entry!

[rothwem]

How bad was it to drop the subframe? I'm considering dropping mine to do the subframe and diff bushings instead of trying to do it all in situ.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by rothwem

How bad was it to drop the subframe? I'm considering dropping mine to do the subframe and diff bushings instead of trying to do it all in situ.

I did both my E9x in the same month.

Not bad, 6 bolt + drive shaft + exhaust + brake line + hand brake cable.

What it took me the most time is to figure out how to detach the hand brake wire. And you probably not need to do it if you want simply change the bushing and paint it.

Also having the tool to detach the exhaust hangers from the rubber support is a must.

Removing brake line was also a pain because of rust, and decided to buy new breake line from the dealer.


It's a easy job, but very time consuming.

When its down, it's not heavy, so you can move it pretty easly.

For smaller bushing the normal busing tool kit do the job, for bigger one, I went torche way, was very fast.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by rothwem

How bad was it to drop the subframe? I'm considering dropping mine to do the subframe and diff bushings instead of trying to do it all in situ.

Overdose above covered the key points.

You can do subframe bushing inserts by just lowering it slighly and leave it in place, but to replace all bushings, I would recommend removing the subframe. That is especially true if yours is rusted like mine. I first tried to remove the bushings where the eccentric bolts go and I couldn't align the bushing tool properly and bent a bushing while sliding it in and then I couldn't get it back out with the kit I had.

The brake line connection at the body was the scary part. If you can undo those without damage, you're OK.

For the ebrake cable detail, see my posts and helpful comments from others earlier in the thread. It's not bad once you get the rotor off and see the mechanism.

It is a lot of work, so do it only if you really need to. But if you do need to, as mentioned, it's long, but straightfoward.

Feel free to ask as you make your way through it. All the best!

[rothwem]

Originally Posted by eljay

The brake line connection at the body was the scary part. If you can undo those without damage, you're OK.

Ahh. I was thinking I could just let the brake calipers hang, but I see now that's not really possible. My brake lines are looking a bit ragged though, with the rubber outer sheathing getting a little crackly, maybe I should just do it all.