[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Hooper, I never did run down the torque specs on the screws and nuts on the head side of the intake. Do you have specs for this?

I dont know the specs. The bolts are M6 up top and M7 for the nuts, and on a plastic intake. Generally thats going to be about 7 lb ft. for the M6 and 10 lb ft for the M7. The gasket is the good reusable type which makes it pretty tough to not get a seal unless you either put the bolts on just finger tight or tighten so far you crack the plastic.

Originally Posted by floydarogers

Actually, it's a good system and extends the life of the batteries. You don't get something for nothing.

Having to go in and register the battery is a horrible solution. Changing a battery is one of the easiest things you can do on a car and as such should not require a visit to a specialist with the right tools to register it. At the most it should require a few steps in i-drive to tell the computer the battery is new.

[BB_cuda]

wow, 6 mm bolts. Sounds like i should use the 1/4" drive to tighten back. You're right, since the intake is plastic, the torque is more related to not breaking the plastic flange than torquing the M6 up to its elastic stress limit. Really and truly, the preload here is to compress the intake gaskets enough so that their pressure is higher than boost pressure to prevent boost leak. thanks hoop

[blowinsmoke]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

I dont know the specs. The bolts are M6 up top and M7 for the nuts, and on a plastic intake. Generally thats going to be about 7 lb ft. for the M6 and 10 lb ft for the M7. The gasket is the good reusable type which makes it pretty tough to not get a seal unless you either put the bolts on just finger tight or tighten so far you crack the plastic.



Having to go in and register the battery is a horrible solution. Changing a battery is one of the easiest things you can do on a car and as such should not require a visit to a specialist with the right tools to register it. At the most it should require a few steps in i-drive to tell the computer the battery is new.

Maybe they should have the suspension set up in a way so that when you fill the fuel tank the suspension compensates for the extra weight so long as you bring it to the dealer and get it registered as full.

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

...
Having to go in and register the battery is a horrible solution. Changing a battery is one of the easiest things you can do on a car and as such should not require a visit to a specialist with the right tools to register it. At the most it should require a few steps in i-drive to tell the computer the battery is new.

Not easy for us that don't have iDrive...
But I do agree that it shouldn't cost to do it, and/or should be easier.

[bagman]

I'd be looking at the fuel rail pressure sensor connector to see if it's plugged in all the way. This is the connector that gets unplugged to install a JBD device. A lot of people remove and sell their JBD when they get rid of the car. The sensor should be putting out about .5 volts with the ignition on but the car not running. At idle speed it should show about 1.25 volts. With your foot to the floor and the computer not limiting torque it should show about 4 volts.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

I dont know the specs. The bolts are M6 up top and M7 for the nuts, and on a plastic intake. Generally thats going to be about 7 lb ft. for the M6 and 10 lb ft for the M7. The gasket is the good reusable type which makes it pretty tough to not get a seal unless you either put the bolts on just finger tight or tighten so far you crack the plastic.

Would this help. Please note the units.

[blowinsmoke]

I did not flow test the lift pump yet, but I checked the connection on the fuel rail pressure sensor. Connection was good, so I decided to try to run it with the connector completely off. I runs without stalling now and has WAY more power!!! It still has a fault which indicates reduced power, but I believe it must be this sensor. I would guess now it has as much power as my VW TDI.

I noticed they sell this at Rock Auto for $216 shipped. I think dealer was about $250. The rockauto one is made by AIRTEX / WELLS. I suppose I could get it from the dealer but maybe theirs aren't so great. Any thoughts?

And I do appreciate input!!!

[blowinsmoke]

I see that a JBD requires a good pressure sensor.

[blowinsmoke]

Service record.pdf

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by blowinsmoke

I did not flow test the lift pump yet, but I checked the connection on the fuel rail pressure sensor. Connection was good, so I decided to try to run it with the connector completely off. I runs without stalling now and has WAY more power!!! It still has a fault which indicates reduced power, but I believe it must be this sensor. I would guess now it has as much power as my VW TDI.

I noticed they sell this at Rock Auto for $216 shipped. I think dealer was about $250. The rockauto one is made by AIRTEX / WELLS. I suppose I could get it from the dealer but maybe theirs aren't so great. Any thoughts?

And I do appreciate input!!!

Search furiousmethod.com

[glitdi]

So you can get one through rock auto for $216 or an oem for $250... Thats an easy choice! For the price difference go oem... IF and I mean IF thats your problem.

[Yozh]

Husketparts has an oem part for 216

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by blowinsmoke

Attachment 1130833

There is nothing in that service indicating a carbon blasting was performed on the intake.

You do have the SCR recall performed, as well as an injector(s) replacement and DDE replacement.

Looks like EGR and swirl flaps were also worked on.

[blowinsmoke]

Well it's not the pressure sensor....... I think I may pull the intake and have a look.

[Poosik]

hope this isn't too late, my d had a similar issue.
check out this post for added perspective

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1033469

[blowinsmoke]

Thanks for the LPFP ideas. I tested flow after the pump at the filter. I will test the one in the tank once I get a chance. There is good flow after the filter. ATTN: German Engineers: You don't need like 48 parts to create a cupholder and I don't see why it needs 3 fuel pumps.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by blowinsmoke

Thanks for the LPFP ideas. I tested flow after the pump at the filter. I will test the one in the tank once I get a chance. There is good flow after the filter. ATTN: German Engineers: You don't need like 48 parts to create a cupholder and I don't see why it needs 3 fuel pumps.

There are only two pumps, the one in the tank and the hpfp. When you checked flow at the filter that's all the tank pump.

[Mik325tds]

Actually, there are 4 pumps if you include the suction jet pumps....

@blowinsmoke: Sorry to hear it's not the rail pressure sensor. How about the pressure regulator? Do you have someone with a 35d close by to swap parts with? Seems like a costly undertaking throwing parts at it.

[blowinsmoke]

If it's not a pump that the fuel filter snaps to then what is that? I have good flow through the filter. Does anyone know how much pressure there should be just before the HPFP?

I agree it would totally make sense that the pressure regulator is bad. I'm waiting for a better scan tool to arrive to see if I can get any fresh info from that.

It has crossed my mind that perhaps I have extreme CBU and the computer recognizes that the engine cannot pass enough air, therefore it cuts the fuel. But why would it KILL the fuel? It runs WAY better with the rail pressure sensor unplugged.......I ran 80 mph and it doesn't die. With the sensor plugged in it can run maybe 30. Crack the throttle a little too much and it triggers the CEL then dies in a few seconds. It will restart only at the SECOND push of the button. Its weird.

I guess I could take it to the dealer for diagnostic......if I get desperate. I know I can't be normal, but I take satisfaction from solving things like this without dealing with the arrogance of most dealerships.

[Hoooper]

The thing the filter connects to is a fuel heater

Did you check both rail pressure sensors? I believe there are two, one at the front and one at the back

[blowinsmoke]

I will reconfirm the one at the back is plugged correctly. I have noticed that one. For what it's worth, rock auto shows three for the car. The one I changed(at the front), a high pressure and a low pressure. I am guessing they are all associated with the rail. But maybe the low pressure one is before the hpfp? I doubt that, but obviously I'm still figuring this car out.

I think the next most logical thing is the pressure regulator. If not I'll have one of those on the shelf as well.

BTW Husker parts is the cheapest for OEM BMW parts by far.

Another BTW. I have right at 9K in this car at the moment. I'm in it cheap so if I waste a little shelving parts its OK.

[Mark M]

Do you know where the car came from or if it's a salvage title? Is there any chance it was a flood car?