[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

I see. I really hope that this didn’t kill the other components.
Please see attached photo , I put numbers there. Could you tell me which number needs to be relocated and where. Thank you!
Maybe it will start! I really hope

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Thank you. To be honest it’s a really stupid that they didn’t make different keys for connections so this situation never happen! Everyone are people and can make mistakes.

And it’s such a catastrophic mistake too. It would’ve been so easy to add a key to make them different.

After you swap plugs, clear and read codes and post them here.

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

And it’s such a catastrophic mistake too. It would’ve been so easy to add a key to make them different.

After you swap plugs, clear and read codes and post them here.

Will do.
I still think that cloning wasn’t success. See the photo attached that’s how the old one died one looked like and it was cloned using Kess (or something like this).

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Will do.
I still think that cloning wasn’t success. See the photo attached that’s how the old one died one looked like and it was cloned using Kess (or something like this).

It looks burnt. Was this before or after the plugs were swapped? I ask because my plug got swapped and I had to replace oil sensor, LPFP, fuel regulator, rail sensor, rail sensor wiring, and DME. Rins like new now, but it was a nightmare to figure out. I will help you as much as I can with diagnosing since I’ve been through it now. Let’s hope you’re one of the lucky ones that just swaps the plugs back and it works 🫰

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

It looks burnt. Was this before or after the plugs were swapped? I ask because my plug got swapped and I had to replace oil sensor, LPFP, fuel regulator, rail sensor, rail sensor wiring, and DME. Rins like new now, but it was a nightmare to figure out. I will help you as much as I can with diagnosing since I’ve been through it now. Let’s hope you’re one of the lucky ones that just swaps the plugs back and it works 🫰

I really hope. These photos are of old dme which is fried because of valvetronic failure (that’s our conclusion why all this is happening now) I did purchase the new uncoded dme from AliExpress, today I took it off because was thinking to order dme+cas+key kit but after you told me about correct wiring connections I’m going to put it back and see what will happen. See attached photo of new dme - it’s new and nothing looks fried or broken.
Thank you so much for your help

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

And it’s such a catastrophic mistake too. It would’ve been so easy to add a key to make them different.

After you swap plugs, clear and read codes and post them here.

Hello.
What I can say is I connected everything as should, the errors now are deleted! (Previously it didn’t let me do that) fan is not running constantly and no errors on dash or dme cas and etc errors on ista. Will assemble everything now and will try to start the car!

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

And it’s such a catastrophic mistake too. It would’ve been so easy to add a key to make them different.

After you swap plugs, clear and read codes and post them here.

Here there are photos of how it’s connected now

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

And it’s such a catastrophic mistake too. It would’ve been so easy to add a key to make them different.

After you swap plugs, clear and read codes and post them here.

Put all back together.
Here there are the errors:


Car cranks but no start.

[johnlapay]

Here there are the errors.
Did fill the tank with fresh gas now the tank is full.
Cranking but no start - fuel goes and smells like fuel. There is a pressure in fuel rail and fuel itself. Looks like no spark to me…

Any thoughts?

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Here there are the errors.
Did fill the tank with fresh gas now the tank is full.
Cranking but no start - fuel goes and smells like fuel. There is a pressure in fuel rail and fuel itself. Looks like no spark to me…

Any thoughts?

I think the boost trouble code will disappear. It will have to get a reading to clear, aka the car needs ti start. Concentrate on the rail pressure sensor. ISTA will tell you either the sensor is bad, the wiring is bad, or the DME is bad. I would start with the wiring. If there is a slight crack, even a tiny one, it will give you a code. I had to replace the wiring from the sensor to the dme. It’s easy to inspect the three wires. The thing I would try first is put some dielectric grease in the rail connector and plug and unplug it several times to get the grease on all the connections. Then try and start.

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

I think the boost trouble code will disappear. It will have to get a reading to clear, aka the car needs ti start. Concentrate on the rail pressure sensor. ISTA will tell you either the sensor is bad, the wiring is bad, or the DME is bad. I would start with the wiring. If there is a slight crack, even a tiny one, it will give you a code. I had to replace the wiring from the sensor to the dme. It’s easy to inspect the three wires. The thing I would try first is put some dielectric grease in the rail connector and plug and unplug it several times to get the grease on all the connections. Then try and start.

Thanks will do that.
So does this sound like wiring issue now or this still might be the dme? Or dme cloning didn’t go well? As far as I can see the vin is correct and psdzdata is latest as well so I don’t think to be honest that the coding or something is wrong and cas doesn’t match dme now..

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

I think the boost trouble code will disappear. It will have to get a reading to clear, aka the car needs ti start. Concentrate on the rail pressure sensor. ISTA will tell you either the sensor is bad, the wiring is bad, or the DME is bad. I would start with the wiring. If there is a slight crack, even a tiny one, it will give you a code. I had to replace the wiring from the sensor to the dme. It’s easy to inspect the three wires. The thing I would try first is put some dielectric grease in the rail connector and plug and unplug it several times to get the grease on all the connections. Then try and start.

And does this sensor itself or wiring really can make car not to start? Because as I said I see the rail pressure 235 (Inpa reading) and looks like fuel is flowing…. Just looks like no spark.

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

And does this sensor itself or wiring really can make car not to start? Because as I said I see the rail pressure 235 (Inpa reading) and looks like fuel is flowing…. Just looks like no spark.

Pull out your first plug and plug it in to the coil and watch for spark while somebody cranks. That will rule out a no spark issue

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

Pull out your first plug and plug it in to the coil and watch for spark while somebody cranks. That will rule out a no spark issue

Yeah will do that.
Forgot to mention that speakers are not working, so no sound at all with radio etc.
Navigation is there and everything else… very strange… after turning volume up receive the codes per each speaker: CIC: short circuit something like this

[johnlapay]

Huge update!

First of all thank you Dohc120 so much for telling me that major issue and stupid issue was wrong connection on DME.

Next: after clearing the codes there was only one: rail pressure sensor signal stuck.

I did check the wiring all looks ok, I did check the voltage on connector (rail pressure sensor) there are 3 pins: signal, permanent live and earth.
Permanent showed 7.6v, signal when cranking around 5v.
This makes me think that everything is ok with wiring and dme send the signal. Also there is a spark on spark plugs.
When this sensor is disconnected the car STARTS! Then dies after 10seconds.
Conclusion : bad fuel rail sensor part number:
0261545072
Waiting for new Bosch sensor, will put it in and it should start and drive.

Will post a final update when sensor arrives.

I am pretty sure I will need to change the intake camshaft as well because it will be so scratched because of valvetronic failure.

Again thank you all for the help, the DME is good and all data transferred from old fried one to new AliExpress one.
P.S. I was really impressed on how mevd172 is made in China. Look at the photo attached, look at the welding and etc this looks so clean and components are all similar to original Bosch ones.

Regards

[Flo88]

Hi,
I have the same issue with the dme connectors.
You haven't post your final update. So i don't know if your car start again or not...
In m'y case, i change the pressure sensor and it fixe my dme code.
But my engine did not start and now i have valvetronic problem with 2dcf no mouvement identified.
Now i just drill a 5mm hall back of the actuator connection, like this i can put the shaft at the opposite position and now it's start !
I have the 2dd6 code now.
I work for have ista to learn valvetronic but maybe the valvetronic actuator is dead.

Thank's for your feedback.

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Flo88

Hi,
I have the same issue with the dme connectors.
You haven't post your final update. So i don't know if your car start again or not...
In m'y case, i change the pressure sensor and it fixe my dme code.
But my engine did not start and now i have valvetronic problem with 2dcf no mouvement identified.
Now i just drill a 5mm hall back of the actuator connection, like this i can put the shaft at the opposite position and now it's start !
I have the 2dd6 code now.
I work for have ista to learn valvetronic but maybe the valvetronic actuator is dead.

Thank's for your feedback.

Hi. The car started and was driving , after fuel rail sensor replacement.
Now the car starts then dies.
Exactly same code: short circuit pedal +2dd6 short circuit calvetronic line disconnect.
I am going to buy new valvetronic and connect just a plug to it without removing the current one to check if the issue is with valvetronic itself. If the error still be there then my guess is DME is dead again or something is wrong with electrical supply (wire cut/rotten or something).

Let’s try to fix this together. 2 brains is better than one.
I hope maybe very helpful guys from last time might also give suggestions if they will see our messages.

P.S. I’m sorry but I don’t understand why you drilled a hole? What for? This sounds strange…

PM me your WhatsApp number so maybe we can help each other.

Regards.

[Flo88]

When the engine stop, the valvetronic close valves.
If the valvetronic is out of service when you want to start your engine, the valves can not open and the engine can not start.
You Can change the position of the valvetronic shaft turning the screw of the actuator. To access this screw you have to remove all with injectors so after you can not test if your engine start...
That's why i drill a small hall with this i don't have to remove anything to access this screw, after i turn the shaft to the maximum and the engine can start.

I order a new actuator and i am waiting for new seal.
After i change this parts i hope all is work.

[Flo88]

I change my valvetronic. I put the contact on and i heard it.
I connect ista to learn the valvetronic and it doesn't work...
I test again and After this i don't heard any more the actuator...
I test the wiring and tension from dme and all is good.
When i turn the actuator manually i have some strong point not really strong but more than the rest.
I test my old actuator and i found the motor is in short-circuit. I test the New actuator and it is in short-circuit too.
The new part is broken...
I think i have to change the shaft but i test with copper grease and with a drill to turn many times the actuator.
After few rotation i don't have any more strong point.
Now i am looking with bmw for replace the broken part.

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Flo88

I change my valvetronic. I put the contact on and i heard it.
I connect ista to learn the valvetronic and it doesn't work...
I test again and After this i don't heard any more the actuator...
I test the wiring and tension from dme and all is good.
When i turn the actuator manually i have some strong point not really strong but more than the rest.
I test my old actuator and i found the motor is in short-circuit. I test the New actuator and it is in short-circuit too.
The new part is broken...
I think i have to change the shaft but i test with copper grease and with a drill to turn many times the actuator.
After few rotation i don't have any more strong point.
Now i am looking with bmw for replace the broken part.

Hi, mate.
So the new valvotronic was bad?

How did it end? You installed new one and all good and working or..? Give us an update please.