[orteeze]

Originally Posted by Dylan484

Have you installed the JB4 back on? Also, what other parts do I need to order other than the valve cover and gasket? The local indy place here told me I need some sort of spark plug crimps, but the dealership didn't seem to know what I was talking about. Thanks

All I needed was what came with the new valve cover.

Squealing is gone on MAP 5; or any MAP for that matter. Took it out for some adaptation runs, got it to temp; it's all good now!

[tkong]

Thank you for this DIY. I'm going to test tomorrow if its my PCV valve. I already replaced the serpentine belt/tensioner/idler pulley and to my dismay, it didn't fix anything LOL

[e90ca]

I was having this same exact problem on my 11' n55 335i since last october and finally had my valve cover replaced a few days ago and the squeal is all gone and car runs like new now. For me even after I turned off JB4 by setting it to map 0, I was starting to have the squeal too. So glad this is fixed now!

[more_fasterer]

Hey vespa, thanks for the excellent write-up. I've just used it to replace a leaky valve cover seal on my RHD 2012 E91. I don't know if it's due to having the steering wheel on the right side of the car, or it being an E91, but I did a couple of things differently:

Originally Posted by vespa

[*]Loosen all the valve cover bolts. Use some combination of size adapters and u-joints to make extensions just the right length for the rear bolts. The right rear bolt is a doozie. Best to have a friend hold the socket/u-joint while you work the wrench. Try not to drop the socket, it's very difficult to find stuff in that part of the belly pan. This bolt alone could be a 30 minute job depending on how many times you drop the wrench.

I'm glad to say that with a 6" wobble extension, I didn't have any issues trying to get this bolt out.

Originally Posted by vespa

[*]The valve cover lifts up easily but it's pretty difficult to find a path to get it out. Have a friend bend the cowl/firewall area while you zig and zag to wiggle the cover out. Now you will see why the windshield wiper needed to be removed and the injectors needed to be protected. Dirt will rain from the bending cowl onto the #6 injector and you won't even be able to keep track of the trauma faced by the other injectors. Don't force anything -- find a way to get it off gently and then remember how you did it so that you can reinstall in the same manner.

I got a bit carried away and removed both wipers, the cowl that attaches to the base of the windscreen, and the right-hand black vertical panel that segregates the wiper assembly from the engine bay. Removing this panel meant that I could lift the valve cover straight up & off the engine without having to worry about it fouling anything. This also meant that it was much easier to refit the valve cover while dodging that super-sharp camshaft bracket.
Refitting the windscreen base cowl did involve a bit of swearing though...

[vespa]

Thanks for the feedback fasterer. I can certainly imagine how completely removing the windshield base makes everything else much easier and it probably isn't much more effort than just partially loosening it as I did. Even the partial loosening involves swearing as that thing just does not want to go back into place.

I haven't heard of leaky gaskets on the N55, did you find the cause?

[NjPrince]

Just did this on a friends car and had to buy all the tools. Here's the links if anyone needs them:

Crowsfoot wrench tools: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...MAAOSwcUBYTzwU

Gasket Plate: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...22%26_sop%3D12

Self tapping screws: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...4AAOSwNNxWFTpt

[Flyinace2000]

Thinking of doing this job over christmas break. Burnt oil smell is getting worse.

[RoarinForeign]

My cover seems to be on very tightly and doesn't want to budge. Any tips for getting it off or should it slide right out if all the screws are loose? 2011 n55 x-drive e92

edit: Got it, and my project completed

[lwgrenier]

How did you diagnose this problem? I smell burning oil pretty much every time I drive. I noticed a bunch of oil and dirt at the front of my engine (circled in red in the photo). Would the valve cover leak be noticeable near the exhaust (circled in blue). Any help would be appreciated!

[dannyjones]

Guys, I desperately need your help.
I did this - all was going well - too good to be true. But when torquing up my valve cover, the bolts suddenly went loose as I was tightening (bolt 1 - and it feels like 2 is the same).

Is this normal or have a stripped the thread? I was using a torque wrench but 6 ft/lb is very low and I'm worried my wrench isn't accurate and has over torqued them.

What are my options?

Thanks.

Edit. And now a bolt has snapped

[lwgrenier]

Does anyone know if the VC gasket number is 11-12-7-587-804?

[Amp9827]

Originally Posted by bosco335i

I put the plastic piece back underneath the valve cover gently and one of the clips broke off ....
what I would like to know is if this piece has a part number and if so what is the part number or is this piece really necessary and I could put the valve cover back on with out this plastic piece

I am stuck on the same boat the clip broke off on mine.. do they sell replacements or can this be JB welded on ?

[w5xz]

This DIY is positively OUTSTANDING!! only a couple minor tweaks did the trick on my 2012 F30 motor. My stealership quotes $1000 for this. Pelican parts had a $25 gasket. 1/2 a day later, it's FIXED!!

the injector wiring connector advice is priceless.

many thanks...regards, Dan

[iwantaw335]

hello I just did this over the weekend. But the vent piece inside my valve cover is different from the one I received and looks different from the pictures you guys posted. Or did I break a piece and is still inside my cylinder head It doesnt look like it's broken though

See pictures below. I knew it was different but I went ahead and installed the new cover anyways because I needed to get car running. Upon first start up, i noticed something was wrong. It hesitated and the diverter valves was releasing air. After It idles down, the idle itself was rough and half engine light comes on.

2011 N55 335xi

Please help!

[upsidedownfunnel]

Originally Posted by dannyjones

Guys, I desperately need your help.
I did this - all was going well - too good to be true. But when torquing up my valve cover, the bolts suddenly went loose as I was tightening (bolt 1 - and it feels like 2 is the same).

Is this normal or have a stripped the thread? I was using a torque wrench but 6 ft/lb is very low and I'm worried my wrench isn't accurate and has over torqued them.

What are my options?

Thanks.

Edit. And now a bolt has snapped

I'm sure you have it figured out by now, but as a warning to everyone, 6 ft-lbs is very very low. You need to buy a micrometer torque wrench. Also, it's very easy to miss the click on a torque wrench when you have it set to one of its lower settings.

You need to test out your torque wrench on a different higher torque bolt to make sure you get a feel for the click at such low settings. It's very different from the very loud positive click you get when tightening your wheel lugs at 100 ft-lbs.

[drwillb]

OP, thank you very much for the DIY. I've got a 5/2012 135i with n55 and, although the n54 procedure is very similar, I could not have done this without you!! There are a hundred n54 write ups and videos but I didn't see any for the n55 even after months of research while at work.

I had everything going smooth until I realized that the valve cover would not come out....period. That's when I did more Google-ing and came across this thread.

One thing I would add: in addition to removing the passenger wiper, lifting up the black plastic trim under the wiper, and removing the center piece where the strut bars go through, I found that moving the additional black plastic trim on the passenger side was critical to getting the cover back in without knocking the gasket out of place. It took 3 failed attempts to then see this additional piece was in the way. Loosen the one nut and just lift out of the way, same as the wiper trim piece.

Thanks again.

[e93gofast]

Originally Posted by dannyjones

Guys, I desperately need your help.
I did this - all was going well - too good to be true. But when torquing up my valve cover, the bolts suddenly went loose as I was tightening (bolt 1 - and it feels like 2 is the same).

Is this normal or have a stripped the thread? I was using a torque wrench but 6 ft/lb is very low and I'm worried my wrench isn't accurate and has over torqued them.

What are my options?

Thanks.

Edit. And now a bolt has snapped

Hey, I saw your post and will be doing the same job. I found this link which I think may be helpful for the bolt that snapped. For the other bolts that went loose, did the bolts or the engine lose their threads or were they all snapped?

Anyways, I hope you were able to fix your situation. Good luck on the fix my dude.

[rodent]

Great write up! I never removed my passenger wiper. Just lifted up the plastic piece high enough with a rubber bungy to the hood support. Came right out. Also don't forget to swap the engine cover ball/socket screws from old to new if you are replacing cover. I highly suggest replacing valve cover since the PCV will fail around 80k miles and its molded on the cover. Don't care for the valves that you have to cut and glue. To seal off the injectors, I cut the fingers off rubber gloves and zip tied them.

Also a good time time to replace the plugs. Went with one step colder NGK 97506 plugs for the N55. Price is around $15 each. Coils are optional.

2011 E90

[Kumar]

Hello fellow E90 brothers I have a concerning question. As cahme mentioned, I also broke that plastic piece off the valve cover gasket by accident I was only planning on changing the valve cover gasket and not the VC itself. Is it alright to put VC back on with the new gaskets? vespa mentioned how this piece is a drainage for the PCV system, but shouldn't it drain with no issues without the one way valve? Any help is appreciated, I love this car, but am concerned about damaging something. thank you all for any help!

2011 BMW 335i E90 AT MHD Stage 1+

[vespa]

That valve is at the end of the oil separator and forces air to be drawn into the beginning of the separator while allowing oil to drain back into the crankcase at the end. Without it, the oil will still drain just fine but some oily air will be drawn into that passage, bypassing the oil separator. The net result is that you will have significantly faster carbon buildup on your intake valves. It won't damage anything, but you'll probably want to clean your valves every 30K instead of 100K miles.

[Kumar]

vespa Thank you for the quick response! Would installing a oil catch can help this situation? I intend on pushing the car to MHD stage 2+ and the last thing I would want is gunked up carbon in my intake valves.

[Kumar]

I wanted to add that I went ahead and replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plugs on the N55. After I assembled everything back and put the negative terminal back on the battery, the car crank, but does not start at all Using MHD i looked at the DME codes and this is what i am getting
2C89 - Diverter valve, actuation: short circuit to earth
2D52 - Intake VANOS solenoid valve, actuation: short circuit to earth
2D9C - Exhaust Vanos solenoid valve, actuation Short circuit to earth
2E4B - Exhaust gas flap, activation: Short circuit to earth
300C - Intake camshaft sensor electric, short circuit to B+
300E - Exhaust camshaft sensor, electrical: Short circuit to B+
332F - Terminal 87_2: No voltage
3400 - Oil- pressure control valve, activation: short circuit to earth

In addition, I noticed that the number 38 fuse in the fuse box keeps blowing even after replacing one time.

I am lost at this point and frustrated with the car, any type of guidance and help from the community is very much appreciated!