[Dr. G]

Get 0 toe all around.. might help.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Abnormal wear is either alignment or tire pressure. Tires wear out by mileage not by time on the road

Zero Toe All around FTW

[Dr. G]

Anyone notice any differences in high speed stability with 0 toe?

I'm still running a bit of toe in the rear.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Dr. G

Get 0 toe all around.. might help.

You are asking for trouble with zero toe in the rear of the car. Rear toe gives the car stability, without it, the car will be a handful, especially when you accelerate away from a turn.

[NiVeDh]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

You are asking for trouble with zero toe in the rear of the car. Rear toe gives the car stability, without it, the car will be a handful, especially when you accelerate away from a turn.

Maybe on the track. For street driving, too much toe-in in the back is downright scary, especially in the rain. I wonder what the optimal setting is...

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by NiVeDh

Maybe on the track. For street driving, too much toe-in in the back is downright scary, especially in the rain. I wonder what the optimal setting is...

Same goes for the street on rear toe my friend.

1/8" - 3/16" total in is ideal, but anything in the range of the oem specs will be fine, but never zero. Unless you are looking for:

Less straight-line stability
Less traction out of the corner
More oversteer

I'll give you this one...higher top speed.

[Proper Motion LLC]

I drive about 1k miles a month, so by 4-6 months I meant about 4-6k miles

[NiVeDh]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

Same goes for the street on rear toe my friend.

1/8" - 3/16" total in is ideal, but anything in the range of the oem specs will be fine, but never zero. Unless you are looking for:

Less straight-line stability
Less traction out of the corner
More oversteer

I'll give you this one...higher top speed.

OK, thanks for the clarification... my current alignment sheet reads 0.28 degrees. If I'm doing the math right, for a 275/30/19 tire, that is around 0.125" of toe-in. That should be good, right?

My previous alignment was 2.03 degrees (!) which is equivalent to 0.9" of toe-in. The rear tires actually looked visually toed-in and it was scary to drive in the rain. I am not sure why my shop set it that way but it destroyed my rear tires very quickly.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

Same goes for the street on rear toe my friend.

1/8" - 3/16" total in is ideal, but anything in the range of the oem specs will be fine, but never zero. Unless you are looking for:

Less straight-line stability
Less traction out of the corner
More oversteer

I'll give you this one...higher top speed.

Interesting. That much of a difference between 0 and 1/8 though?

[max]

Originally Posted by jubb

I get this too

But the weird thing is, its only the inside of the tires that wear.

The outermost portion is almost untouched, while the inside is half gone after 7.5k miles

Wear on only the inside is caused by too much Negative Camber. Get an alignment done.

Too much toe-in will cause feathering effect across the tire, but the tire will be worn evenly across the surface.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+read+tire+wear

[themyst]

Interesting, I put 14k miles on my Dunlop Direzza Z1 SS and they still had 4/32 in the rear and the fronts were probably around 6/32. Probably bad alignment or you have a lead foot.

I put 12k on my Continental DWS, and the rears are around 5/32 and fronts at 8/32. Highly underrated tire!

[dmurray14]

lol, its a good run if i get 6 months out of my rears

[ryansassounian]

Get new subframe bushings and an alignment. Hopefully that'll solve your problem

[joec500]

I stopped running assymetrical tires for this reason. I am now running Falken Fk452 and rotate them from side to side every 5-7k miles and I am at 14k miles currently. Will probably get another 3-5k miles. Versus my T1-r's and Dunlop Sportmaxxs with both got about 8-10miles. Lowered and Tuned

[FastBimmerN54]

Only a select few realize that months VS miles is totally different for some people...whereas some might only put 10K miles on a car a year others might be 20K or more.

[bimmerboy]

fix your alignment

[RoundelM3]

Inside wear on rear tires is definitely too much negative camber - sagging springs/weak shocks can cause it also, but to a lesser degree. Lowering might exaggerate it and the slightly wider size (265 vs 255 stock) might also be part of it. Wear on my current (E92) and past (E46) cars has always been 2 sets of rears for one set of fronts. I have been running Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric non-runflats, but with the new Conti Extreme Contacts having 320+ UTQG as opposed to the 240 on the Goodyears, that may change things.

[kcalhoun27]

i got 40K out of my pirelli A/S. didnt really start to wear until i lowered it and didnt get an alignment. new tires = alignment needed.

[tscdennab]

My stock Bridgestone Potenza RE050A RFT lasted 35.000 miles and I was still able to sell them for $200. They were really incredible.

I would suggest a proper alignment in the back with not-so-negative camber angles.

[ZBMW]

The stock subframe bushings, unlike those in the M3, are hollow to allow for a softer ride. The problem is, you can align the rear end, roll it off the rack, then put it back on and the readings will be different. You can feel the softness when you floor it - the rear end feels squirrely, as if the tires are losing traction.
The best answer to this is Proflex bushings. They will firm up the rear without a harsh ride. They claim they pay for themselves in better tire wear but I haven't had them on long enough to confirm that. It's not a DIY job and figure on paying around a grand for bushings and R and R.
You can also buy Proflex inserts which are cheaper and easier to install. M3 bushings also work well.
Look up the DIY on Proflex bushing inserts in this forum.

[DaFish]

Originally Posted by tscdennab

My stock Bridgestone Potenza RE050A RFT lasted 35.000 miles and I was still able to sell them for $200. They were really incredible.

I would suggest a proper alignment in the back with not-so-negative camber angles.

you can't change the rear camber..... it is fixed I believe.