[pizza_nightmare]

Looking forward to your report with the new suspension!

Bought my 328xi with a BC racing coilovers setup on 18s.

It felt real planted but the front would crash hard over certain road imperfections. Like, throwing cups out of the cup holders.

I got the bushing kit and six piece control arm kit from FCP euro and mated that to Eibach Pro Kit springs and stock Bilstein Touring shocks.

NOT a fan. While it doesn't crash all that hard, it feels floaty and unsettled during road undulations and certain low impact bumps and humps. It's like a rollercoaster. I cheaped out by not getting the proper shocks.

That said I'm switching to B8 shocks. I like reading about X Drive suspension results. Good luck!

Looking back I should have kept the BC Racing Coilovers and done a complete bushing and bumpstop refresh.

[AWD Addict]

Alight, I picked up the car last Friday. I wanted to post up a full review right away (I was elated), but I know there's always a bit of a honeymoon on these, and I wanted to make sure as the system settles that there weren't any dramatic changes. I've done plenty of highway, city and backroads driving since. I'd say since the first drive last Friday night and with the settling since, there's definitely a bit more stiffness and feeling of the road, so I'm glad I waited to post anything up.

* This system is noticeably more daily driver friendly than the Bilstein/Eibach combination. On crappy roads and freeze joints, the crashing element is gone. Noise and vibration are more friendly, and much more aligned with what someone would expect from a BMW (rather than a honda rattlebox, for example). When I switch to my 18s in a month or two and enjoy a larger sidewall, I expect it'll be even better.

* There might be a hair more body roll, but if there is it's not meaningful, and for the tradeoff on crashing/noise/vibration, it's a no-brainer. The car is on rails on exit ramps at speed, flat and predictable. My brother took it for a spin with me in shotgun, and I was white knuckling. He had a shit-eating grin on his face the entire time, particularly hanging a highway ramp at speed. He drives a brand new S4 (which is gorgeous), so his positive response made me feel good.

* I added stoptech slotted rotors to my (otherwise OE) brake job. I can't figure out why anyone would bother with a BBK on this car. These brakes are incredible. Anyways, combined with this suspension the car handles braking really well. It stays straight, and just squats down nice and flat when you hit it. Compared with 2016 Audi S4 and SQ5s (my only reference point), this car's brakes are enormously better, even without the stoptech rotors.

* The M3 rear hardware and bushings are a winner. If you need to do any work on rear hardware or suspension back there, go ahead and buy with confidence. The floatiness in my rear end is gone and is now rock solid, even over bumps and joints at speed while cornering (which is when it felt unpredictable and "floaty" before).

* Overall, this is as stiff as I'd want a daily driver right now. Car feels very sporty, flat and fun, and compared to my last setup, is definitely more compliant on crappy roads. I'd say I sacrificed little to nothing on performance to get a more daily driver friendly setup. I took the wife over some of the tougher roads in my area, and she immediately noticed the improvement. (phew).

At this point, the front has mostly settled. I expect a bit more over the next week, and them I'm getting the alignment dialed in. We have the rears set almost to the highest setting (we wanted to keep more than just 1 or two threads engaged on the collar so that it had enough grip.) Right now, the front and rear "rake" is about even, which is what we'll be targeting when the settling is finished.

I'll post up some pics once the car is cleaned up and finished settling in.

Overall, after 1 week, I'm super happy with the upgrade. I'd strongly suggest those looking for a street setup and considering a strut/spring combo, save up for a couple more paychecks to get this done. And if your car has miles on it like mine (over 120k), I'd also strongly suggest the rest of the parts I installed (detailed on page prior).

Thx for reading!

[AWD Addict]

Here are some shots from the shop, as they were dialing in the ride height and alignment.

[pizza_nightmare]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

Alight, I picked up the car last Friday. I wanted to post up a full review right away (I was elated), but I know there's always a bit of a honeymoon on these, and I wanted to make sure as the system settles that there weren't any dramatic changes. I've done plenty of highway, city and backroads driving since. I'd say since the first drive last Friday night and with the settling since, there's definitely a bit more stiffness and feeling of the road, so I'm glad I waited to post anything up.

* This system is noticeably more daily driver friendly than the Bilstein/Eibach combination. On crappy roads and freeze joints, the crashing element is gone. Noise and vibration are more friendly, and much more aligned with what someone would expect from a BMW (rather than a honda rattlebox, for example). When I switch to my 18s in a month or two and enjoy a larger sidewall, I expect it'll be even better.

* There might be a hair more body roll, but if there is it's not meaningful, and for the tradeoff on crashing/noise/vibration, it's a no-brainer. The car is on rails on exit ramps at speed, flat and predictable. My brother took it for a spin with me in shotgun, and I was white knuckling. He had a shit-eating grin on his face the entire time, particularly hanging a highway ramp at speed. He drives a brand new S4 (which is gorgeous), so his positive response made me feel good.

* I added stoptech slotted rotors to my (otherwise OE) brake job. I can't figure out why anyone would bother with a BBK on this car. These brakes are incredible. Anyways, combined with this suspension the car handles braking really well. It stays straight, and just squats down nice and flat when you hit it. Compared with 2016 Audi S4 and SQ5s (my only reference point), this car's brakes are enormously better, even without the stoptech rotors.

* The M3 rear hardware and bushings are a winner. If you need to do any work on rear hardware or suspension back there, go ahead and buy with confidence. The floatiness in my rear end is gone and is now rock solid, even over bumps and joints at speed while cornering (which is when it felt unpredictable and "floaty" before).

* Overall, this is as stiff as I'd want a daily driver right now. Car feels very sporty, flat and fun, and compared to my last setup, is definitely more compliant on crappy roads. I'd say I sacrificed little to nothing on performance to get a more daily driver friendly setup. I took the wife over some of the tougher roads in my area, and she immediately noticed the improvement. (phew).

At this point, the front has mostly settled. I expect a bit more over the next week, and them I'm getting the alignment dialed in. We have the rears set almost to the highest setting (we wanted to keep more than just 1 or two threads engaged on the collar so that it had enough grip.) Right now, the front and rear "rake" is about even, which is what we'll be targeting when the settling is finished.

I'll post up some pics once the car is cleaned up and finished settling in.

Overall, after 1 week, I'm super happy with the upgrade. I'd strongly suggest those looking for a street setup and considering a strut/spring combo, save up for a couple more paychecks to get this done. And if your car has miles on it like mine (over 120k), I'd also strongly suggest the rest of the parts I installed (detailed on page prior).

Thx for reading!

Excellent write up. Posts like these are what keeps this niche (XDRIVE BMW) enthusiast community alive.

Currently my mechanic installing front B8s and Eibachs instead of my horrid new OEM shocks/struts and Eibachs (I installed the rear). Totally regretting it after reading these reports about how better Konis are for daily driving. D'oh! The suspension saga continues.

thanks again for the write up

[AWD Addict]

I ran that setup for a long time. You'll be happy. You're going to become a master at dodging potholes.

I'd strongly suggest adding adjustable sway bar links when you do this upgrade.

[nicked8]

Would love to see some more pics of how she sits on the ground once settled. Also, any chance the shop told you the thread measurements front / rear that they used to achieve the even rake?

[AWD Addict]

The rears are as high as they'll go, but for a few threads (we wanted to make sure there was enough threads engaged to grip. The front is a hair higher right now, but I'm going to wait till it's settled a bit more until I finalize it.

It's snowing like crazy today, so I'll get some pictures when it's a bit more friendly outside.

I'm battling a minor issue, where if the wheel is cut all the way and I back up, the driver side front wheel makes contact with the endlink. They're as short as they can go, but it looks like if they get adjusted any longer, they'll rub even worse due to the curve of the bar. Anyone heard or dealt with this?

[4 Doors]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

The rears are as high as they'll go, but for a few threads (we wanted to make sure there was enough threads engaged to grip. The front is a hair higher right now, but I'm going to wait till it's settled a bit more until I finalize it.

It's snowing like crazy today, so I'll get some pictures when it's a bit more friendly outside.

I'm battling a minor issue, where if the wheel is cut all the way and I back up, the driver side front wheel makes contact with the endlink. They're as short as they can go, but it looks like if they get adjusted any longer, they'll rub even worse due to the curve of the bar. Anyone heard or dealt with this?

Are you referring to the tie rod end links? And they are adjustable as you mentioned?

What about spacers, running any?

[AWD Addict]

Sway bar end links. we got them adjusted right. the bar was a bit too tensioned, and had turned so that the curved part was rubbing the wheel.

I'm only running spacers on my winter 18s. Just swapped them on.

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by 4 Doors

Looks good! Do you have any miles on this yet? Did you replace the subframe bushings at the same time?

Yes. I had whiteline inserts. now running m3.

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by nicked8

It's interesting how the two subframe's seem to rust fairly easily - I've noticed the same thing starting on my own E92 with only 50k miles. Gotta love those NE winters.

The rest of the underside of your car looks great, especially for a Boston car. Excited to hear what you think once everything is back together again.

Thankfully.i have a touch free carwash down the street from my house. I add the extra buck for the undercarriage spray every time.

[Liam1106]

How much did this set up run you? Minus the price of the coilovers. The coilovers seem to be about $1450 everywhere you look, but how about all the suspension bits and pieces? And what shop did you go to?

Thanks for posting your results, it’s a big help having a reference to go to. I’m also in Mass, which is why I bought the xDrive that I’m now regretting. I’m looking to upgrade and update my suspension. It’s fucking awful right now. I drove a friends 2003 325xi and it was so much more smooth, planted, comfortable, and predicable on stock suspension that’s 17yrs old. What the real fuck is up with BMW’s 335xi suspension?

I’m always watching out for potholes, but on the occasion where they’re just unavoidable, or covered by water or snow, I’d love to be able to mitigate the shock factor. It an understatement to say that it’s jarring hitting a pothole in my car. My adrenaline spikes everytime I hear that **CLUNK** and it’s always in the front end.

[Herakles]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

So, It's been ~80k miles since I swapped out my stock setup for the Bilstein/Eibach option, and about 8 years.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=664385

The setup's performed well for me, despite having a few warranty replacements for blow struts (potholes/freeze joints), and a pair of rears (a bit too many bags of compost in the trunk), but I'm getting older, and I think Boston's roads are getting worse.

Generally, particularly on the highway, this setup still feels great as a grand tourer. Stiff, flat, predictable and daily-driver capable, but on road imperfections, there's too much harshness for me. I can't deal with the crashing feeling any longer, and my wife is no longer tolerant of it at all. I'm on 19" wheels in the summer, and stock 18's in the winter (nonRFT).

I know the issue is with the amount I've lowered the front, there's just not enough distance for the piston to travel to actually properly dampen impacts. I've looked at going Dinan or switching to Konis, but I think I'd be getting a marginal improvement at best, and the Konis seem to fail more frequently. I also think the Eibachs might be a bit soft, allowing the piston to fully compress to easily and 'bottom out' on itself.

So against all my better judgement, I'm leaning towards coilovers, likely the KWs, instead of sticking with a struct/spring combo. My goals are the same, sporty daily driver, no rake, modest (adult) drop, and LESS CRASHING.

I've read lots of threads on this, and picked up some confidence that particularly with adjustable endlinks, I should be able to maintain the height and rake improvements I have, but with a better ride (though some say it's still a bit harsh - it's tough to tell from just forum posts).

What I'm stuck on, is if I should go v1 or v3. I don't care about price, I want the right part for the car. I'm inclined to go v3, even though I'll never track the car, just because it seems I can soften the dampening settings even softer than the v1, if for some reason that's too stiff. I'm not thrilled about adjusting these, as it seems like a pain in the ass, but I'm assuming once I get it dialed in, I'll never have to touch it again.

Questions for the peanut gallery:
* Am I going to be adjusting v3s for months before it lands where I want?
* I understand the v1s are basically right in the middle of hte v3s range on dampening/rebound. Is that right?
* Are either of these going to have a more daily-drivable (less crashing) for me? Am I chasing a phantom here?
* Do you guys think the v1s will be an improvement over this setup, crashing in particular?
* Based on posts/threads here, I'm also planning on upgrading swaybar endlinks, bushings, subframe bushings and maybe even control arms (up and low). Any other suggestions as I try and remake this car's suspension for the next few years?

Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

So, It's been ~80k miles since I swapped out my stock setup for the Bilstein/Eibach option, and about 8 years.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=664385

The setup's performed well for me, despite having a few warranty replacements for blow struts (potholes/freeze joints), and a pair of rears (a bit too many bags of compost in the trunk), but I'm getting older, and I think Boston's roads are getting worse.

Generally, particularly on the highway, this setup still feels great as a grand tourer. Stiff, flat, predictable and daily-driver capable, but on road imperfections, there's too much harshness for me. I can't deal with the crashing feeling any longer, and my wife is no longer tolerant of it at all. I'm on 19" wheels in the summer, and stock 18's in the winter (nonRFT).

I know the issue is with the amount I've lowered the front, there's just not enough distance for the piston to travel to actually properly dampen impacts. I've looked at going Dinan or switching to Konis, but I think I'd be getting a marginal improvement at best, and the Konis seem to fail more frequently. I also think the Eibachs might be a bit soft, allowing the piston to fully compress to easily and 'bottom out' on itself.

So against all my better judgement, I'm leaning towards coilovers, likely the KWs, instead of sticking with a struct/spring combo. My goals are the same, sporty daily driver, no rake, modest (adult) drop, and LESS CRASHING.

I've read lots of threads on this, and picked up some confidence that particularly with adjustable endlinks, I should be able to maintain the height and rake improvements I have, but with a better ride (though some say it's still a bit harsh - it's tough to tell from just forum posts).

What I'm stuck on, is if I should go v1 or v3. I don't care about price, I want the right part for the car. I'm inclined to go v3, even though I'll never track the car, just because it seems I can soften the dampening settings even softer than the v1, if for some reason that's too stiff. I'm not thrilled about adjusting these, as it seems like a pain in the ass, but I'm assuming once I get it dialed in, I'll never have to touch it again.

Questions for the peanut gallery:
* Am I going to be adjusting v3s for months before it lands where I want?
* I understand the v1s are basically right in the middle of hte v3s range on dampening/rebound. Is that right?
* Are either of these going to have a more daily-drivable (less crashing) for me? Am I chasing a phantom here?
* Do you guys think the v1s will be an improvement over this setup, crashing in particular?
* Based on posts/threads here, I'm also planning on upgrading swaybar endlinks, bushings, subframe bushings and maybe even control arms (up and low). Any other suggestions as I try and remake this car's suspension for the next few years?

Thanks guys.

Not to change your question, I'm about to refresh my 2011 335xi with 65k miles and have read a lot of your posts- do you recommend your set up or maybe go with dinan and bilstein? I though I read the dinan are 30pct stiffer than stock and eibach only 10pct.. not sure about Konis had the yellows on my trans am ages ago seemed ok but the adjustment is pointless as you can't adjust the rears without taking shock out.

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by Liam1106

How much did this set up run you? Minus the price of the coilovers. The coilovers seem to be about $1450 everywhere you look, but how about all the suspension bits and pieces? And what shop did you go to?

Thanks for posting your results, it’s a big help having a reference to go to. I’m also in Mass, which is why I bought the xDrive that I’m now regretting. I’m looking to upgrade and update my suspension. It’s fucking awful right now. I drove a friends 2003 325xi and it was so much more smooth, planted, comfortable, and predicable on stock suspension that’s 17yrs old. What the real fuck is up with BMW’s 335xi suspension?

I’m always watching out for potholes, but on the occasion where they’re just unavoidable, or covered by water or snow, I’d love to be able to mitigate the shock factor. It an understatement to say that it’s jarring hitting a pothole in my car. My adrenaline spikes everytime I hear that **CLUNK** and it’s always in the front end.

I don't remember the total cost. That looks about right for the shocks. It's was a big job, but honestly, totally worth it. The car feels fantastic. Major improvement over the B8/Eibach setup. That soul-crashing feeling is a thing of the past, thank god.

I went to Boston Motor Werks in Belmont. He does all my work, regular maintenance, and of course, when I torture him with sh*t like this. He's not the cheapest, but he's fair, and his quality of work is excellent. Having just done mine, my guess is they could give you a pretty accurate quote.

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by Herakles

Not to change your question, I'm about to refresh my 2011 335xi with 65k miles and have read a lot of your posts- do you recommend your set up or maybe go with dinan and bilstein? I though I read the dinan are 30pct stiffer than stock and eibach only 10pct.. not sure about Konis had the yellows on my trans am ages ago seemed ok but the adjustment is pointless as you can't adjust the rears without taking shock out.

This is the best setup since I bought the car in 2008. By a lot. Should have come this way from the factory. This is the package I'd reccomend for a very sporty but compliant and wife approved ride. It'll still shake you on the worst potholes, but nothing like the crashing I had with the Bilstein setup.

[Liam1106]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

I don't remember the total cost. That looks about right for the shocks. It's was a big job, but honestly, totally worth it. The car feels fantastic. Major improvement over the B8/Eibach setup. That soul-crashing feeling is a thing of the past, thank god.

I went to Boston Motor Werks in Belmont. He does all my work, regular maintenance, and of course, when I torture him with sh*t like this. He's not the cheapest, but he's fair, and his quality of work is excellent. Having just done mine, my guess is they could give you a pretty accurate quote.

Okay thanks man. I’ll prob see you around 😎

[AWD Addict]

Quick update:

After about 8 momths, my rears felt like they quit. Damping dramatically reduced, and some odd lateral behavior over bumps. I had them replaced, and everything was back to normal and felt excellent. That was end of last summer 2021.

It's now March '22, and I'm feeling degradation again. Not as bad, but I do think it's progressing. I'll note there have been no unusual loading (like filling the truck with heavy boxes) and no catastrophic potholes. I've certainly hit some potholes, but nothing that should have killed a rear shock.

I'm having them looked at this month. If it's in fact the coilovers again, I'll likely be considering a newer setup. AT this point, I'm going to throw money at the problem and see if that solves it.

[AWD Addict]

Anyone running Ohlins on their Xi/xdrive?

[Peter Morrin]

Late to the party. I bought my 2007 E90 328xi last November. It came with the ST-X suspension (galvanized steel version of the KV1), which apparently has the same springs and shock internals. I don't know the age, but there is plenty of corrossion so at least a couple years. One rear shock had failed (lots of fluid leakage), but the car still rides reasonably well. I concure that this is a great gentleman's compromise set-up.

I am planning on sending both the rear shocks and front coil-over assemblies to California to have them re-built. The quotes seemed pretty reasonable (about $100 for each piece). Did you get warranty coverage for your blown rear shocks? Did you consider an alternate rear shock to match the KV-1 rear springs?

Peter

[whyzee125]

KW's seem to leak fairly often from what I've read. I don't think I've seen another setup that has an many seal failures as KW's. That being said, I've seen a lot of KW's with some mileage on them that haven't failed too. If you blew out multiple Bilstein Sport's, the roads must be pretty brutal there as those are some of the most durable shocks you can buy.

If you end up doing an alternate rear shock and keeping the KW's, I'd give Koni Yellows a try. They're really awesome shocks and don't seem to fail often at all. Adjustable too and you could reuse your KW bump stops.

[Peter Morrin]

In my case and the OP it appears to be the rear shocks that have failed. I am curious if others have had the same situation, or whether their front struts failed as well.

Thanks for the recommendation of the Koni shocks. I presume you are referring to the "yellow" version?

Can anyone comment on their rear spring rates that they paired with the Koni Yellows?

To me the beauty of the KV is the variable spring rate and shock damping really suits a daily driver where there are marginal roads.

Peter

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

In my case and the OP it appears to be the rear shocks that have failed. I am curious if others have had the same situation, or whether their front struts failed as well.

Thanks for the recommendation of the Koni shocks. I presume you are referring to the "yellow" version?

Can anyone comment on their rear spring rates that they paired with the Koni Yellows?

To me the beauty of the KV is the variable spring rate and shock damping really suits a daily driver where there are marginal roads.

Peter

Koni's work well with a wide variety of spring rates and ride well. Yes, the yellow ones. People run them with OE springs, stuff like H&R or Swift Spec R, all the way up to fullblown metric coilover springs. They will work well with the spring rates of the KW's as KW's springs are softer than Swift but stiffer than OEM.