[mashimarho]

Any updates?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

Any updates?

Not really. It works fine so long as you get the car out on the highway every once in a while so the dme "forgets" about the misfires.

Twisted tuning also came through with a code delete for the misfire. Weather has been crap though so I havnt ripped the car in a while. Next 60f+ sunny day will do some alunchedls and see if the tuning eliminated the issue altogether.

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Not really. It works fine so long as you get the car out on the highway every once in a while so the dme "forgets" about the misfires.

Twisted tuning also came through with a code delete for the misfire. Weather has been crap though so I havnt ripped the car in a while. Next 60f+ sunny day will do some alunchedls and see if the tuning eliminated the issue altogether.

So, the vehicle sees these misfires and throws codes. Does it still function or is it just go into limp mode?

How would I be able to get this tune if I currently have my tuning through wedge?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

So, the vehicle sees these misfires and throws codes. Does it still function or is it just go into limp mode?

How would I be able to get this tune if I currently have my tuning through wedge?

Yeah that's the gist of it. Happens over time not instantly. And yes limp mode. Just turn the car off and turn it back on and it's normal again. But to get back to being able to use the wot box without limp mode you need to go for a decent drive to clear the dme.

[boostd92]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Yeah that's the gist of it. Happens over time not instantly. And yes limp mode. Just turn the car off and turn it back on and it's normal again. But to get back to being able to use the wot box without limp mode you need to go for a decent drive to clear the dme.

So in its current state, can you actually make a simulated drag strip pass? - On the launch control for 2-3 seconds, then a 4 gear NLS WOT pass without it tripping a CEL or limp mode?

That's all I would need - I can clear codes after a pass to reset the misfire counter, that's easy.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by boostd92

So in its current state, can you actually make a simulated drag strip pass? - On the launch control for 2-3 seconds, then a 4 gear NLS WOT pass without it tripping a CEL or limp mode?

That's all I would need - I can clear codes after a pass to reset the misfire counter, that's easy.

yeah it works fine. I have NLS set to 150ms because I can bang into 2nd so fast. 2-3 shift is much slower but 150ms still seems to be a long enough cut to get the shift done smoothly.

Clearing codes does not clear the DME event history. You would probably have to reflash the car or something. The car keeps track of "events" and a certain number of "events" over a certain amount time/miles (not sure of the actual logic) it will start throwing codes.

So basically if you drive to the drag strip you'll be able to make a few passes but then once it starts going into limp mode you wont be able to just clear codes. It will still drop right into limp mode as soon as you try to launch again. That is where a long drive resets things and you can go back to launching without issue and NLS.

I'll update when I get a chance to play around with it again with the new file Twisted Tuning sent me.

[boostd92]

Nevermind, I read 24FF when it's 2F44. Ignition supply voltage failure/engine failure. I suppose eliminating the logic for those codes is not a big deal - that shouldn't happen with any frequency in real life.

If you were to have that issue in real life, you could flash back to stock and see if it through the code, I would imagine.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by boostd92

What is 24FF exactly?

Was googling and not much out there.. is it Cyl 4 misfire specifically? Just wondering what happens if you permanently disable that code and actually have an issue with that particular cylinder (or problem it references).

No 24FF is a general coil ignition voltage supply code.

Dme and ignition system is complex. Dme at first just throws generic misfire codes but eventually with the ongoing events related to the supply voltage being cut it throws the 24FF code. The triggering/firing of the coil is a separate wire from the constant 12v supply that the wotbox interrupts.

Not sure which code TT disabled. I am guessing something misfire related. Talk to your tuner if you want to go down that road.

Twisted Tuning might be able to add to the convo if they have time. I know N2MB worked with tuners on other platforms to get misfire logic playing nice with wotbox.

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

yeah it works fine. I have NLS set to 150ms because I can bang into 2nd so fast. 2-3 shift is much slower but 150ms still seems to be a long enough cut to get the shift done smoothly.

Clearing codes does not clear the DME event history. You would probably have to reflash the car or something. The car keeps track of "events" and a certain number of "events" over a certain amount time/miles (not sure of the actual logic) it will start throwing codes.

So basically if you drive to the drag strip you'll be able to make a few passes but then once it starts going into limp mode you wont be able to just clear codes. It will still drop right into limp mode as soon as you try to launch again. That is where a long drive resets things and you can go back to launching without issue and NLS.

I'll update when I get a chance to play around with it again with the new file Twisted Tuning sent me.

On that note, how long do you have to drive for one of these "long resets?"

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

On that note, how long do you have to drive for one of these "long resets?"

3 hours 15minutes and 02 seconds for exactly 152.98 miles.

[mashimarho]

So we had a difficult time trying to find the RPM signal, the one listed and shown above did not work for our 08/2011 build e92 335i.
Has anyone found an RPM signal wire for our cars?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

So we had a difficult time trying to find the RPM signal, the one listed and shown above did not work for our 08/2011 build e92 335i.
Has anyone found an RPM signal wire for our cars?

That wire is the crank position sensor... best place possible to get rpm signal. Check your wiring. Put your vin into newtis.info and verify your x6002 harness pin 6 is the CPS. Also note that there are several yellow wires on that harness so make sure you grabbed the right one...

There is an alternate setting for injector based rpm source but you would have to reach out to N2MB on how to set that up. I am guessing you tap into the ignition harness like they do to get rpm signal on the dyno.

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

That wire is the crank position sensor... best place possible to get rpm signal. Check your wiring. Put your vin into newtis.info and verify your x6002 harness pin 6 is the CPS. Also note that there are several yellow wires on that harness so make sure you grabbed the right one...

There is an alternate setting for injector based rpm source but you would have to reach out to N2MB on how to set that up. I am guessing you tap into the ignition harness like they do to get rpm signal on the dyno.

Here's what that site shows me.

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

That wire is the crank position sensor... best place possible to get rpm signal. Check your wiring. Put your vin into newtis.info and verify your x6002 harness pin 6 is the CPS. Also note that there are several yellow wires on that harness so make sure you grabbed the right one...

There is an alternate setting for injector based rpm source but you would have to reach out to N2MB on how to set that up. I am guessing you tap into the ignition harness like they do to get rpm signal on the dyno.

Another view

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

Another view

okay and which pin does x6203 go to?

>>>>> Wiring Diagrams and Functional Description / Power train / Engine electronics MEVD / Engine speed recording / Wiring Diagram (SSP) Crankshaft sensor

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rding/CkLIPp24

Pin 3 of X6203 (CPS) goes to pin 6 of X6002 (DME) for my 135i. That's the Newtis page you want...

[boostd92]

Any update with the tuner and getting this to work without limp mode?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by boostd92

Any update with the tuner and getting this to work without limp mode?

Nope. Need to rework the dme logic or whatever and no one wnats to put the time in to do it. Can't just disable the misfire code. Car still shuts off just doesn't illuminate the cel.

[Giberish33]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Nope. Need to rework the dme logic or whatever and no one wnats to put the time in to do it. Can't just disable the misfire code. Car still shuts off just doesn't illuminate the cel.

Slightly different situation being that I have an N52 128i but question relates to the "global" rev limiter. To clarify, does the engine shut off / go into limp from simply hitting the global rev limiter for several seconds? I have an auto so looking for a way to keep it from automatically upshifting. My goal is not drag strip but rather having fun sliding in snow. I don't forsee sitting on the limiter for more then 3 or 4 seconds while sliding but ill stick to throttle control if I will get stuck in limp mode or shutting off completely.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Giberish33

Slightly different situation being that I have an N52 128i but question relates to the "global" rev limiter. To clarify, does the engine shut off / go into limp from simply hitting the global rev limiter for several seconds? I have an auto so looking for a way to keep it from automatically upshifting. My goal is not drag strip but rather having fun sliding in snow. I don't forsee sitting on the limiter for more then 3 or 4 seconds while sliding but ill stick to throttle control if I will get stuck in limp mode or shutting off completely.

Yes the engine literally shuts off. The issue is "misfires over time" DME logic meaning... hitting the artificial rev limiter frequently is going to throw the code. It works fine for me in autocross because there is usually only a maximum of 1 spot on a course where I might tap the limiter for a few seconds... then I am idling waiting for my next run with no misfires so the "misfires over time" isn't building up in the DME history and I am usually good for the next run.

Doing donuts in a parking lot banging off the limiter isn't going to work. Factory DME misfire logic is just too protective.

I might actually be thinking of the no lift shift that causes the car to shut off but banging off the limiter throws it into limp mode. I can't recall right now. Either way, WOTBOX holds it's value so not a complete waste if you buy one second hand and end up needing to resell it.

[boostd92]

Still considering this for my PS2 N55 335i. Being RWD, a 2-step rev limiter is nearly a must for launching at the track.

Have you ever timed how long it takes to shut off the engine? At the dragstrip, I'd probably be on the limiter for 2-3 seconds, then make a pass where it won't be misfiring, then idle/cruise back to the pits not misfiring. Hell, I even let it idle for a few minutes in the pits to let it cool down. The downside is that I usually do this 4-5 times per dragstrip trip, and those 4-5 iterations happen in 2-3 hours time.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by boostd92

Still considering this for my PS2 N55 335i. Being RWD, a 2-step rev limiter is nearly a must for launching at the track.

Have you ever timed how long it takes to shut off the engine? At the dragstrip, I'd probably be on the limiter for 2-3 seconds, then make a pass where it won't be misfiring, then idle/cruise back to the pits not misfiring. Hell, I even let it idle for a few minutes in the pits to let it cool down. The downside is that I usually do this 4-5 times per dragstrip trip, and those 4-5 iterations happen in 2-3 hours time.

yeah I honestly have not taken the time. It's there and installed and it does what it is supposed to until the DME steps in.

We really need MHD to work on these things for early N55. I am thinking about doing an n54 swap this spring just so that I can get access to the DME tuning. They have launch control for 6mt cars, shift bog delete, misfire logic for running wotbox if you want to... I believe you can get anti-lag to work in a hacked way by spoofing IATS. Some of this stuff exists on the later N55 dme but that would require switching to the ewg turbo, crappier HPFP, crappier injectors, etc. that come along with the late N55 DME. Not worth it to swap to that DME.

[boostd92]

If you pull off an e-series n55 to n54 swap, keep us posted. I haven't seen it done yet.

Honestly, if someone would just come out with a high volume rotary style high pressure fuel pump (not a bandaid like the helix that just overspins the stock pump), I'd be 99% happy with my N55.

The hurdle from ~500whp (on E85) to 600whp is like $4,000 in fuel system parts, tuning etc, too much added complication.

Hell, when someone does a B58 swap, I'll be all-in on that. I love my E90 and don't want an F/G chassis car.