[tetsuo111]

What: As on the former car, I replaced the heavy N American rear bumper bar with a svelte Euro-spec 330i bumper bar to lose an easy 11 lbs while taking zero hits in daily drive-ability and safety.

Euro 330i bumper bar part # 51127058467

RealOEM

DIY: BMW Rear Bumper Replacement

Why: Losing weight directly improves all driving dynamics. Also, I prefer the dynamic agility of a ~290 Hp 3250 lb car to a 500 Hp 4000 lb car.

Results: Less mass = less inertia -> more fun. In anticipation of some who argue 10 lbs is insignificant, I would counter that the process is cumulative. I've dropped 150 lbs since taking delivery, including nearly 40 lbs of unsprung, rotational mass.

[ECSTuning]

O man, the old girl pics are painful! Glad to see you're back at it! Love the direction you're heading already.

[The Nightman]

Subscribed! Looking forward to updates with a proper wagon.

Also, I did the same drive to Yellowstone and loved it.

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Sorry to hear about the damage! Glad you were able to pick up a replacement so quickly though. The new car looks great

-Matt

[tetsuo111]

Originally Posted by ECSTuning

O man, the old girl pics are painful! Glad to see you're back at it! Love the direction you're heading already.

Thanks for the support over the years, ECS. You've been a solid vendor. I have a few parts in the queue I need to order.

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Subscribed! Looking forward to updates with a proper wagon.

Also, I did the same drive to Yellowstone and loved it.

I still love your screen name... The irony is that we drove so much that our actual time in Yellowstone Park was around 2 hours. Classic mission creep. That's fine. I'll just need to make the drive out again, with gear to spend a few days. Final tally was: 6 Western states in 7 days and around 2500 miles at sustained German Autobahn speed (when safe and appropriate)

Originally Posted by Expert@ApexRaceParts

Sorry to hear about the damage! Glad you were able to pick up a replacement so quickly though. The new car looks great

-Matt

Thanks, Matt. Apex has been another strong vendor for me. I'm a big fan of the unique combination of style and hyper light weight. Keep up the strong work!

[tetsuo111]

What: This morning I loaded OEM 330i DME software on my MSV80 N52.

How cool is that?

Why: Activate the 3IM DISA for a bit more low/midrange TQ and power output, without downsides to reliability and safety

Results: Car feels faster than a ZR1 'Vette or Camaro...

Thanks to many forum members who made this possible!

hassmaschine
NiNeTyOne
Dan Bilzerian
BimmerGeeks
Terraphantm

[NiNeTyOne]

Originally Posted by tetsuo111

What: This morning I loaded OEM 330i DME software on my MSV80 N52.

How cool is that?

Why: Activate the 3IM DISA for a bit more low/midrange TQ and power output, without downsides to reliability and safety

Results: Car feels faster than a ZR1 'Vette or Camaro...

Thanks to many forum members who made this possible!

hassmaschine
NiNeTyOne
Dan Bilzerian
BimmerGeeks
Terraphantm

Indeed, it was great to see Dan Bilzerian & work with BimmerGeeks.

Shout out to Terraphantm for being there to answer a quick question on Tetsuo's car!

Can't wait for the valve lift mod now!

[kickserve]

Originally Posted by tetsuo111

What: This morning I loaded OEM 330i DME software on my MSV80 N52.

How cool is that?

Why: Activate the 3IM DISA for a bit more low/midrange TQ and power output, without downsides to reliability and safety

Results: Car feels faster than a ZR1 'Vette or Camaro...

Thanks to many forum members who made this possible!

hassmaschine
NiNeTyOne
Dan Bilzerian
BimmerGeeks
Terraphantm

Forgive my ignorance, is this 330i DME software...[edit: never mind. sorry for newb question-- new to BMW and new to tuning-- just finishing reading thru Hass's epic thread]. Looking forward to hearing more about how this tune performs.

BRAVO! to the teamwork that it took to make this happen.

[PORTMOODY]

Great work. Beautiful car.

[justrokkit]

Two things I wanted to ask about:

1) In regards to the exhaust setup, is the midstream-merge single exhaust a better design than a full dual exhaust for this engine? Also, can you explain the theory behind stepping up the diameter after your headers? I want to learn more about the thought process behind finalizing this design for the N52 because I've been thinking about a full-custom exhaust of my own.

2) Is the 330 DME a better platform for adding a tune rather than just going off of a single tune from a tuner like BPC? If so, would you mind explaining why?

[tetsuo111]

This post documents a routine service:

Date: 16 Nov 17

Mileage: 41,800

What: Bridgestone Blizzak WS-80 225/45/17 mounted and balanced

Why: It's cold and damp. Roads are slippery.

Remarks: In a city where any snowfall is unusual and results in local drivers freaking-out, like a solar eclipse observed by ancient cultures, we already experienced two snow events. And it's the time of the year for an early-season shakedown ski tour. Wife has a new AT setup, Paradise has ~50" of base, and the season is officially open, at least for me. Tails are wagging in anticipation....

[tetsuo111]

1) The archives are full of passionate opinions about exhaust design. There are also enough dynos posted to draw some informed conclusions. In any case, exhaust design triggers a lot of heated discussions.

- consider what you want to accomplish: lighter weight (the OEM system is very heavy) / louder sound / dual or quad tips / optimized system for HP or TQ? Is the car going to be used mostly on road or on track? Different goals need different designs.

- my interest is optimizing for power. The Cliff Notes for this is to understand a 5-stroke ICE cycle. The 5th stroke is scavenging burnt gasses from the piston cylinder by improving the velocity / literally suction of the exhaust gasses out of the cylinder to maximize the volume of air/fuel on the intake stroke. the design can only be optimized for specific operating points at specific engine speeds / RPMs.

- Optimizing for power usually also means LOUD. LOUD usually upsets neighbors and spouses.

- stepping up the tube size post-headers is simply the result of using SuperSprint section 1 test pipes. I forget the numbers off the top of my head, but I think the SS pipes are 1/8" larger than stock. Too large and velocity drops, even if the air mass is similar.

- merge position has a significant impact on the performance. in general, placing the merge further forward, closer to the headers optimizes scavenging at higher RPMs. this may be more desirable for track applications, while trading some lower-end TQ for a few more HP on top. The stock merge is in the aft half of the system. This position generally optimizes TQ at lower RPMs in exchange for a loss of some HP on top.

- my personal opinion is that the correct way to design the exhaust is to begin with an informed plan, fabricate the system and measure on a dyno, then iterate until satisfied with the results. I think this rarely happens because the process is time-consuming, impractical, and expensive. ALL of the commercially packaged N52 exhausts I've seen retain the merge near the stock location. This doesn't mean it's "The Best" position. It means it's the best for maximizing TQ in the lower RPM range most-often used on a daily driver.

2) another great question! IME the AA and BPC tunes result in a bit more power. I have dynos posted of results on my old car. I think the old car made around 238 HP and 212 ft-lbs TQ, but I'm reaching back. The OEM 330i tune is cool, at least for me, because of some implementation issues it resolves. If power is your concern, I think there are many many satisfied members running both AA and BPC DME sw. The marginal power takes the Camry-like 328i and gives it just enough push to feel athletic. The 330i sw is noticeably less zippy compared with AA and BPC, at least IME, but functions with a level of product maturity that's superior. So choose your goal and spend accordingly.

Originally Posted by justrokkit

Two things I wanted to ask about:

1) In regards to the exhaust setup, is the midstream-merge single exhaust a better design than a full dual exhaust for this engine? Also, can you explain the theory behind stepping up the diameter after your headers? I want to learn more about the thought process behind finalizing this design for the N52 because I've been thinking about a full-custom exhaust of my own.

2) Is the 330 DME a better platform for adding a tune rather than just going off of a single tune from a tuner like BPC? If so, would you mind explaining why?

[masterh]

Someone told me to check out this thread for 328i vs 328xi

I live in seattle but will move to LA soon. I've been looking for a wagon for couple months all over the country. I found one recently with every options but it's 328xi.

It's justifiable to get xi if I am going to stay here but.....
(I was around Tacoma area on I-5 today. That highway has puddles all over. It was ridiculous)
It's really hard to find either 328i or 328xi with sports package and NO Tan interior....


I felt 328xi drives kind of like Crossover. It sits little high so it was comfortable enough on rough roads and bumps. I didn't have to turn my steering to drive diagonally so it won't scrape the bumper.


So I think if I want to drive around the city on rough roads, xi should do better for comfort driving but 328i is obviously more fun around canyons for spirited driving? (but you also mentioned xi can attack the corner faster...lol)

Just curious do you work on other guys cars in your garage for $? If I pick up this car, it will need some maintenance like fluid changes.


here is the car I am looking at. I will probably offer $9k since I will have to do 100k maintenance on my own.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/c...392465478.html

[justrokkit]

Originally Posted by masterh

Someone told me to check out this thread for 328i vs 328xi

I live in seattle but will move to LA soon. I've been looking for a wagon for couple months all over the country. I found one recently with every options but it's 328xi.

It's justifiable to get xi if I am going to stay here but.....
(I was around Tacoma area on I-5 today. That highway has puddles all over. It was ridiculous)
It's really hard to find either 328i or 328xi with sports package and NO Tan interior....


I felt 328xi drives kind of like Crossover. It sits little high so it was comfortable enough on rough roads and bumps. I didn't have to turn my steering to drive diagonally so it won't scrape the bumper.


So I think if I want to drive around the city on rough roads, xi should do better for comfort driving but 328i is obviously more fun around canyons for spirited driving? (but you also mentioned xi can attack the corner faster...lol)

Just curious do you work on other guys cars in your garage for $? If I pick up this car, it will need some maintenance like fluid changes.


here is the car I am looking at. I will probably offer $9k since I will have to do 100k maintenance on my own.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/c...392465478.html

If you already have a relocation to LA firmly planned, I'd personally try to find a RWD (which would probably take a little time) and keep whatever I have for the winter.

Even here in NY, I wish I was able to find an RWD. The AWD is probably essential for getting out of a snow drift, but if you're a patient, smart, responsible driver and have a set of snow tires (which you should always have above the salt belt), then the difference in winter performance should be rather negligible.

[bkwld]

RWD is definitely way to go but if you get the car on Craigslist for good price, it’s a rare car fully loaded with blk/blk. Getting a good price however will be offset by the maintenace and fixes you will want to do since it’s 95k.

[mashimarho]

I can’t believe that happened!!!!

[tetsuo111]

This post documents four small services.

Date: 29 Nov 2017

Mileage: 42,262

What: 1) Replace 4 x cabin air filters (Mann 64319159606), 2) Replace 4 x plastic Schrader valve caps with nickel plated brass silicon-sealed valve stem caps (BMW 36121120779), 3) Replace non-M center console glasses tray with M Novello console tray (BMW 51167132376), 4) Replace dash cup surround trim with new part (BMW 51457138797)

Why: This is that time of the season to catch-up on the endless list of small services that need attention.

- Cabin air filters can be changed annually. The Mann filters are half the price of the equivalent BMW part number, so I chose to use them. This isn't to imply that the parts are identical. They aren't. But the Mann filters are fine. NOTE: mine are M3 filters because I replaced the motor bay cowl with an M3 cowl for better accessibility. DIY (not necessary but just in case....): http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=864769

- I check tire pressure at each fill-up. Plastic valve stem covers don't seal, and look like.... plastic. I replaced mine with proper nickel plated brass covers, with internal silicon O-rings and knurled barrels. These are miles better, functionally and aesthetically.

- On this car I chose to focus more attention on "high-contact" area upgrades. This especially applies to the cockpit. On my last E91, I enjoyed the few interior upgrades (Recaro Profi buckets, M3 steering wheel and paddles, Turner AL pedals, etc), mostly I think because this is an intimate part of the driving experience. IMO the non-M cockpit is functional and comfortable, but isn't quite finished. With this car, I chose to convert the non-M cockpit to "M+". With this job, replacing the open center console tray with the covered Novello leather M tray, my interior is almost finished. The sole remaining interior upgrades are a cluster replacement (darn &%$! MPG gauge) with M3 cluster, and replacing the M3 shifter with a weighted ZHP knob.

- I've had this car for a few months. The PAX-side dash trim has a small ding, so I replaced it.

Results: Several small jobs crossed off my "To do" list

[tetsuo111]

Documenting a small (trivial) mod.

Bushings are on order to firm-up the drivetrain. I'm doing this the hard way. Again. If I was smart, I would surrender and go full track mode with very low compliance (or solid) drivetrain bushings. Or, I would simply sleep peacefully knowing that the stock drivetrain bushings are adequate for a DD, keeping the NVH in check for a comfortable ride.

Instead, I'm working to reduce drivetrain compliance, while keeping the car street-able.

On my last E91, Delrin differential bushings were effective, but also amplified the differential whine too much for the pax in my life. 034 Motorsports motor mounts were a mild improvement over stock, and there was no NVH penalty. I fabricated 60A poly transfer case mounts, but the car was lost before those were installed.

To prep for firmer trans mounts, I installed a foam gearshift assembly insert, to mitigate noise in the cockpit. The insert is part of the M and 335i gearshift assembly, but not on our little 328i.

BMW 25117567319 (#4 in the diagram)

Results pending after installation of the firmer trans bushings.

[tetsuo111]

This intake is well-documented on E90post and elsewhere. Here's another...

Date: 5 Dec 2017

Mileage: 42,575

What: BMW M Performance Intake (Euro version) installation

DIY: DIY BMW Performance Intake - Euro Version

Why: Let's be clear. This mod is NOT about adding any significant power. Rather, it's ~ 75% eye candy and ~ 25% functional. I already have a slightly larger and better flowing Euro air box. I already replaced the OEM conical air filter with a better flowing AFE Pro Dry conical filter. I already fab'd and installed a 3" carbon fiber snorkel CAI that is conceptually similar to the M3 / Dinan intakes, but mine flows MUCH better due to the larger cross sectional area. There's a smooth silicon intake hose where the corrugated intake muffler used to be. I even dyno'd for results of my CAI and silicon TB hose (~15 whp).

Every intake mod to improve air mass to the combustion chambers resulted in real (but mild) gains. These are documented objectively and subjectively in other posts. One post I saw even dyno'd the PI and found a 8 whp gain, double the BMW claim of 3 - 5 hp.

I use a trickle charger daily. This means opening the hood for access to the jumper terminals. I simply wanted to have something nice to look at everyday when I open the hood. This is car jewelry. Eye candy. Bling. If we get a mild bump in flow, that's a bonus.

I also thought it might be useful to document the differences between the Euro PI and the OE intakes. There are more differences than I realized:

- the PI uses a K&N conical air filter

- the PI suction hood material is carbon fiber and says 'BMW Performance'
- the PI suction hood has a larger cross sectional area
- the PI suction hood does NOT use a corrugated joint to the air box
- the PI suction hood has more curvature to the air flow passageway

- the PI air box lid does NOT have structural ribs
- the PI air box lid has a different joint to the suction hood
- the PI air box lid has two inlets. One larger one connects to the suction hood. One small one reaches back towards the high pressure zone wind screen area.
- the PI air box lid does NOT have the inner vane as found on the stock lid
- the PI air box lid torx fasteners are nickel finish rather than AL

Installation Notes: I couldn't find another Euro PI with M3 engine cowl. There are some installation notes that are unique to this configuration. I planned for a 20 minute install. As with many projects, it took double the time. Why? The M3 engine cowl slightly interferes with the windshield-side PI snorkel. I removed ~2mm from the M3 cowl for a perfect fitment with the I6 intake.

The clearance between the driver-side M3 tower strut brace and the PI windshield-side snorkel is tight, but fits WITHOUT modification.

Results: I have no plans to dyno. I made one short drive post-installation. There's a bit more sound, a smooth "whoosh" that highlights the wonderfully silky mechanical spin of the NA6. I didn't even try to juice the "go" pedal.

When I opened the hood to connect the trickle charger, I smiled.

Pictures:

[mashimarho]

When can I see this thing again!?

[tetsuo111]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

When can I see this thing again!?

Lol - you set a high bar, Sean! Will ping you next time I'm up there.

[tetsuo111]

Date: 11 Dec 2017

Mileage: 42,898

What: ZHP Shift Knob, BMW part 25117896886

Why: Continuing in the spirit of enhancing the touch points and tactile driving experience on this car, I replaced the M3 shift knob with the weighted (5.4 oz), un-lighted ZHP shift knob. The ZHP knob is ~.75" shorter than the standard M3 knob, and shorter yet than the stock non-M knob.

DIY: This is a 15 minute job, unless you're like me and feel the need to clean and condition the leather boot. There are many DIYs for changing shift knobs, here are two:

ZHP Shiftknob, first mod, done.

Illuminated ZHP Shift Knob Install

Installation notes:

- Non-M knobs are simpler to replace because the boot and knob are separate. M shift knobs will need to be carefully separated from the attached leather boot, using a sharp hobby knife.

- Be advised the Non-M and M boots and boot frame are different shapes and not interchangeable.

- Illumination of the knob isn't important for me. In fact, it's a distraction. Any extraneous light inside the cockpit ought to minimized, IMO. That said, it seems a lighted shift knob is a priority for some. In that case, consider substituting the F10 M5 for the ZHP shift knob. The M5 knob is pre-wired for illumination and uses better quality leather. You will need to do minor surgery to substitute boot frames.

Results: Combined with the AutoSolutions 30% SSK, the lower height, shorter throw, and heavier weight of the ZHP knob move the shifting ergonomics in the right direction. Shifts are a bit quicker and snappier. No, it doesn't shift like an S2000, Miata, or Cayman, but throws are noticeably more positive. The leather knob has superior "feel" compared with both the non-M plastic knob and un-weighted M leather knob.

The sole downside is that weighted knobs amplify the momentum of your throws. In other words, both proficient and poor shifting technique will be amplified.

This is an easy mod to recommend.