[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by innovaciones

I was planning to do that, lucky I found an ALWAYS on fuse here:



Thanks!

You sure that doesn't shut off after a few hours? Once you open your door after an extended period of time, certain circuits are activated. So it may look like it still has power, but it may just be turning on because you opened the door.

Keep your car attached to an external power source, keep the door open for a couple hours, and see if the fuse location is still active.

Or just see if you access the gps module after a few hours.

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by innovaciones

I was planning to do that, lucky I found an ALWAYS on fuse here:



Thanks!

I know this is old, but just wanted to say BIG THANKS for posting this!!

I installed an aftermarket HU a few weeks back, and my installer just assumed the 'constant' power going into the harness was a true constant. Until today, my deck has been losing it's memory / settings every time I got in the car due to a lack of a true constant.

Finally went back to my installer with this image. He was skeptical as his voltmeter showed power to the constant he was currently using (he didn't want to wait 30 minutes after lockdown to test). I urged him to change it to piggy back off the image above, and now it works like a charm!!

My installer is really good at what he does, but I guess we can't expect them to know everything about all the different types of cars they work on. Lesson learned: do your research, and inform the installer of the intricacies of your car!

Thanks again!!! I love this forum!

[innovaciones]

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

I know this is old, but just wanted to say BIG THANKS for posting this!!

I installed an aftermarket HU a few weeks back, and my installer just assumed the 'constant' power going into the harness was a true constant. Until today, my deck has been losing it's memory / settings every time I got in the car due to a lack of a true constant.

Finally went back to my installer with this image. He was skeptical as his voltmeter showed power to the constant he was currently using (he didn't want to wait 30 minutes after lockdown to test). I urged him to change it to piggy back off the image above, and now it works like a charm!!

My installer is really good at what he does, but I guess we can't expect them to know everything about all the different types of cars they work on. Lesson learned: do your research, and inform the installer of the intricacies of your car!

Thanks again!!! I love this forum!

I'm very glad that my post help you too, that is the main point for this forum, to help us each other

[N8N]

Originally Posted by Brianbmwboy

Add a Circuits and Fuse Taps are never a good idea, especially in BMW cars that have every circuit in the car monitored by one module or another. Changing resistance on any of these wires can cause the modules function incorrectly. In addition fuse taps can spread pins in a fuse contact making for a poor connection in the block if ever removed.

The correct tie in for the car for any aftermarket accessories is at the main terminal on the battery for constant 12V power. (note there are 3 positive terminals on the battery, catch the smallest on on the outside edge). Then just attach a small guage wire with a fuse holder and fuse right at the battery and run the wire through the car to where you need it.

Accessory (power on while the key is inserted) can be found at the brake pedal (purple wire with white stripe at four pin harness above pedal) and then should go to a relay to run any additional accessories.

Spend a little more time and do it the right way and you'll minimize your problems.

MECP Certified Advanced Installer with certification through 2010

I agree that this is crap

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...A&gclsrc=ds.ds

however I used something like this for my V1 hardwire

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwAg&dur=1642

just so I wouldn't be splicing/soldering under the dash and I could remove it completely and put back to stock if I wanted, and I don't see a real problem using that kind of fuse tap

[WRichieX]

Originally Posted by *********

What about the IBS sensor? Which monitors battery performance, current draw, etc. If you wire an accessory directly to the battery, not only do you bypasss the IBS sensor, you also bypass the BST. The BST will blow in the event of an accident. If you have an accessory directly attached to the battery the BST won't work. If there is a fuel leak, it could ignite from the accessory wire shorting on something.

The fuse panel is a much safer place to grab power in a BMW.

I doubt your certificiation went over that...

I should have clarified above, the proper way is to grab power from the distribution block on top of the battery and not directly from it.

You will need to buy the small connector and metal crimp peice that slides into if you still want the BST and IBS to be active and fully functioning.

Can you explain this in noob terms. I didnt even know about these sensors. I actually am drawing power for my rearview camera directly from the battery in the trunk. Is there a picture of the top distribution block? Now you got me all worried.

[djpez2001]

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

I know this is old, but just wanted to say BIG THANKS for posting this!!

I installed an aftermarket HU a few weeks back, and my installer just assumed the 'constant' power going into the harness was a true constant. Until today, my deck has been losing it's memory / settings every time I got in the car due to a lack of a true constant.

Finally went back to my installer with this image. He was skeptical as his voltmeter showed power to the constant he was currently using (he didn't want to wait 30 minutes after lockdown to test). I urged him to change it to piggy back off the image above, and now it works like a charm!!

My installer is really good at what he does, but I guess we can't expect them to know everything about all the different types of cars they work on. Lesson learned: do your research, and inform the installer of the intricacies of your car!

Thanks again!!! I love this forum!

Thank you, this post just saved me alot of headaches. The pin mention on the Dynavin instructions and elsewhere in this forum, does not have a true 12 volt constant power, at least for my car it does not. But the location I found on this thread nailed it. Thank you guys.

[charmin]

Just wanted to say thanks as well, fitted a Fiscon BT unit to 320i 09 LCi UK, all it says is connect to a "steady 12v supply" used the guide here and works great. I actually checked the other connector first and supply turns off after 16mins on mine, the one highlighted by Innovaciones is fine.

[flinchy]

i tried using the fuse spot highlighted in this.. but the blade i have is for the medium sized fuse, not the mini-blade

does anyone know a regular/medium blade fuse that's constant 12v?

the space behind the glovebox where the fuse box is is WAY too small to accurately get a multimeter in.

[Viktimize]

Originally Posted by flinchy

i tried using the fuse spot highlighted in this.. but the blade i have is for the medium sized fuse, not the mini-blade

does anyone know a regular/medium blade fuse that's constant 12v?

the space behind the glovebox where the fuse box is is WAY too small to accurately get a multimeter in.

Fuse number 81 is a constant power source that actually remains powered past 20min after shut down. And it's a normal sized fuse slot. Mine didn't even have a fuse in it's place, so I just plugged my tap a fuse in.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by Viktimize

Fuse number 81 is a constant power source that actually remains powered past 20min after shut down. And it's a normal sized fuse slot. Mine didn't even have a fuse in it's place, so I just plugged my tap a fuse in.

hm should probably clarify i have a 1 series, and i don't even have 81 fuses

what does 81 power? as i probably have a similar module

kinda strange 1/3er have different fuse boxes when they have literally identical modules.

[charmin]

It may be a lot easier if you were to get a miniature fuse link tap, most auto shops have them and you will find you can fit it in dead easy.

I couldn't hardly even see mine, as you rightly said there is not much room but I felt it in, easy once you get it lined up.

[Viktimize]

Originally Posted by flinchy

hm should probably clarify i have a 1 series, and i don't even have 81 fuses

what does 81 power? as i probably have a similar module

kinda strange 1/3er have different fuse boxes when they have literally identical modules.

My 3 series doe not have 81 fuses either. But the fuse number is 81 as marked on the fuse legend in behind the glovebox. I can't comment on whether 1 and 3 series have same fuses, but it would be pretty likely. I suggest actually pulling out your legend and seeing if there is a fuse 81 listed. Mine was the top fuse slot in the 3rd row from the left of the regular sized fuses.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by Viktimize

My 3 series doe not have 81 fuses either. But the fuse number is 81 as marked on the fuse legend in behind the glovebox. I can't comment on whether 1 and 3 series have same fuses, but it would be pretty likely. I suggest actually pulling out your legend and seeing if there is a fuse 81 listed. Mine was the top fuse slot in the 3rd row from the left of the regular sized fuses.

yeah that's what i mean, my fuse legend goes up to 70 or 71

[bmw_118d]

How many amps is this fuse? Thanks.

Originally Posted by innovaciones

I was planning to do that, lucky I found an ALWAYS on fuse here:



Thanks!

[rod.bearings]

Looking for the opposite, anyone know of a fuse that ONLY stays on for 30-60 minutes?

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by krazi3azn

Looking for the opposite, anyone know of a fuse that ONLY stays on for 30-60 minutes?

Try the glovebox light.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by innovaciones

I'm very glad that my post help you too, that is the main point for this forum, to help us each other

Haha old post I know but I have to sya this will help me to.

I want my dash cam to be always on if I have to bring my car in for service or at a dealer just in case. Just have to swap my fuse tap kit into that fuse before any appointment.

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I want my dash cam to be always on if I have to bring my car in for service or at a dealer just in case. Just have to swap my fuse tap kit into that fuse before any appointment.

Why not use a power magic pro or similar, and have it constantly connected to a live 12v?

This means you'll always record when car is off too (parking lots etc), and the PMP will cut off power to camera if car battery gets low, so you're not left stranded.

Best of both worlds. You can even use different settings for Park Mode (when car is off) so it only records when there's motion or impact, vs continuously (at least my blackvue has this option).

[Ali-E90]

Also, most garages I know just disconnect the dashcam before working anyway. Many dealerships actually have explicit policies saying dashcams must be disconnected.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

Why not use a power magic pro or similar, and have it constantly connected to a live 12v?

This means you'll always record when car is off too (parking lots etc), and the PMP will cut off power to camera if car battery gets low, so you're not left stranded.

Best of both worlds. You can even use different settings for Park Mode (when car is off) so it only records when there's motion or impact, vs continuously (at least my blackvue has this option).

My hardwire kit already came with a voltage checker and auto disconnected but I prefer to wire it with the ignition. I don't really trust that to much.

But I agree having it recorded during parking would be a huge a plus.

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

My hardwire kit already came with a voltage checker and auto disconnected but I prefer to wire it with the ignition. I don't really trust that to much.

That's fair, the original PMP I had did die after 2 years, but the generic replacement I have is now on year 3 and going strong!

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

That's fair, the original PMP I had did die after 2 years, but the generic replacement I have is now on year 3 and going strong!

Yeah mine is also a generic no name ish chineese kit so... one guys in reviews was saying it wasn't doing it's job properly.

Is there a way I could test it? Does using a multimeter on the battery accurate to determine voltage it has for starting?

I would rather test it one day and see how much voltage drops.