[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by sdorn

I am ordering the stuff to start doing this myself, and I am a little confused. I ordered the ZKit #1 from Zaino with all the products you mentioned above. Now I am at www.pakshak.com trying to order the rest of the supplies I need. I selected the waffle weave MF towel. I was trying to order the Porter Cable 7336, but I don't know what to get with it. Do I need to order backing plates and pads? Which ones should I order? Which sizes? How many should I get?

I have absolutely no supplies whatsoever, and I want to order everything so that when it comes I can get started. What else do I need besides what I just ordered from Zaino? What other towels, mits, etc. do I need to add to my basket at pakshak.com? I don't see those Viking wash mitt there, but they have some other brand of sheepskin mitt. I looked around Wal-Mart the other day and their selection was pretty weak so I want to just order it all online if I can.

Get these pads (one of each minus the black one):

http://www.pakshak.com/lake-country-...tact-pads.html

Get this backing plate:

http://www.pakshak.com/lake-country-...ing-plate.html

Get the pak shak sheepskin mitt. It doesn't have to be Viking.

Get about 15 of these towels:

http://www.pakshak.com/ultra-micro-f...l-16x16-1.html

Get 5 of these:

http://www.pakshak.com/ultra-plush-m...l-16x16-1.html

Get two of these:

http://www.pakshak.com/waffle-weave-...l-25x36-1.html

That should do it.

[sdorn]

Thanks! I appreciate the help.

I just spent about $450 on stuff from Zaino and Pakshak. You need to get some sort of affiliate relationship going with them to earn some commissions on all this stuff.

[NPinUK]

Whats the best thing to use when applying the p21s wax after the SG stage? Terry applicators?

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by NPinUK

Whats the best thing to use when applying the p21s wax after the SG stage? Terry applicators?

P21S should come with its own applicator under the cap that will fit inside the jar perfectly. Use that. Otherwise, any foam, or terry covered foam applicator will work fine.

[tl_boy]

Thank you for the great post. I have copied and pasted this into a word document because i think its so good.

I need some advice. I have very little knowledge on car detailing, and have never had my car detailed. This is not for the E90, this is for a 1999 Acura TL. It is black metallic. I have waxed it maybe twice in 6 years, and never done any polishing, claybar, or anything other than car wash.

The black is very dull and there are lots of little knicks and paint chips on it. I would like to take care of these knicks and paint chips and have touch up paint, but I would also like to restore the gloss, and blackness of the car.

So for an old car, what is good to be done?

Also, I have a 5"x6" or so dent, do you think i can put bondo in it, paint over it with touch up paint, and then wet polish and it will be like new?

Also, I didn't see the part on how to wet polish.

thanks

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by tl_boy

Thank you for the great post. I have copied and pasted this into a word document because i think its so good.

I need some advice. I have very little knowledge on car detailing, and have never had my car detailed. This is not for the E90, this is for a 1999 Acura TL. It is black metallic. I have waxed it maybe twice in 6 years, and never done any polishing, claybar, or anything other than car wash.

The black is very dull and there are lots of little knicks and paint chips on it. I would like to take care of these knicks and paint chips and have touch up paint, but I would also like to restore the gloss, and blackness of the car.

So for an old car, what is good to be done?

Also, I have a 5"x6" or so dent, do you think i can put bondo in it, paint over it with touch up paint, and then wet polish and it will be like new?

Also, I didn't see the part on how to wet polish.

thanks

Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you found the guide helpful.

For the dent, you may want to try a Paintless Dent Removal service before trying anything else. If the PDR does not work, I'd let a good bodyshop take care of it.

As for touching up nicks, you will need to wetsand as part of the process. Unfortunately I have not written a wetsanding article.

In terms of what to do about the dullnes, just follow the guide. Wash, clay, polish with Menzerna IP via a PC polisher and a foam cutting pad. Once the dullness and swirls are gone, followup with a finer polish like Zaino ZPC and a polishing pad. Once the gloss has been fully restored, protect it with Zaino Z2.

[NPinUK]

If you want to do a fresh detailing job, will Klasse AIO remove your previous layer of wax (or whatever is left of it) or will another product have to be used to remove the wax???

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by NPinUK

If you want to do a fresh detailing job, will Klasse AIO remove your previous layer of wax (or whatever is left of it) or will another product have to be used to remove the wax???

Klasse AIO has cleaners in it that will remove any previous wax used.

[NPinUK]

Originally Posted by DavidN

Klasse AIO has cleaners in it that will remove any previous wax used.

David thanks for the info, much appreciated.

[330i]

Hey guys got a question, on the detailers club it says orbitals shouldn't exceed `1300 rpm and the Porter cable you recomend go's 3000-6000 opm is that ok?

[330i]

Also the PC comes with a white polishing pad so would I need the white one from pack shack like stated at the top of this page.

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by 330i

Hey guys got a question, on the detailers club it says orbitals shouldn't exceed `1300 rpm and the Porter cable you recomend go's 3000-6000 opm is that ok?

You are probably referring to the rotary 101 thread on detailers club. A rotary and a PC are two totally different things. A PC is an orbital. Its spinning is measured in orbits per minute. A rotary sppins in a circle and it's measured in revolutions per minute. A rotary produces more heat and can burn paint if not used properly. A porter cable 7424 will not burn paint. You can equate RPM's to OPM's. The 1300 RPM you saw has no relation to the the PC.

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by 330i

Also the PC comes with a white polishing pad so would I need the white one from pack shack like stated at the top of this page.

The white pad that comes with the PC is junk. It will break apart after one use. So yes, you will need good pads from a vendor like pak-shak.

[330i]

Thanks David

Another goofy question for you. Do you wash the towels in your home machine? I'm afraid it would leave a residue on the washer and your next load of laundry.

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by 330i

Thanks David

Another goofy question for you. Do you wash the towels in your home machine? I'm afraid it would leave a residue on the washer and your next load of laundry.

I wash my towels in my home machine. I was worried about the same thing, but today's washing machines are advanced enough to remove all nasty water without leaving anything behind.

[330i]

Damn David Pakshack is out of the orange and white foam pads, where's the next best place to buy?

[bimmernotbeamer]

autogeek.com or properautocare.com

[blackie]

DavidN: Man, that is one fine guide to detailing! Respect to you for that one.

I hope to be using your method soon on my new 325.

A couple of questions:

1. I don't have a polishing machine and even though I want a nice looking car, I don't plan on buying one:yet! I may be convinced later. If I understand you correctly, only a machine will get swirl marks out. I am hoping there aren't any on the new car. So ZPC will be a waste of time until I buy a machine. But how about Z5? They advertise that to remove light swirls...

2. I am hoping on dawning the car using your washing method and then claying and then 3 layers of Z2 PRO. Do you think that should hold up on a new car after shipping?

3. The dealer has thrown in a free detail as part of getting the car to Vancouver (I am using Euro Delivery). I don't know whether to bother with the detail since I want to Zaino the car. Should I get the detail and then when it wears off, Zaino the car, or should I not bother with the detail since it'll do more damage than good?

I am hoping to maybe use the detail to get them to do the inside and wheels and maybe hand wash to get any sealant/wax off, before I clay and Zaino it.

Any thoughts...?

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by blackie

DavidN: Man, that is one fine guide to detailing! Respect to you for that one.

I hope to be using your method soon on my new 325.

A couple of questions:

1. I don't have a polishing machine and even though I want a nice looking car, I don't plan on buying one:yet! I may be convinced later. If I understand you correctly, only a machine will get swirl marks out. I am hoping there aren't any on the new car. So ZPC will be a waste of time until I buy a machine. But how about Z5? They advertise that to remove light swirls...

2. I am hoping on dawning the car using your washing method and then claying and then 3 layers of Z2 PRO. Do you think that should hold up on a new car after shipping?

3. The dealer has thrown in a free detail as part of getting the car to Vancouver (I am using Euro Delivery). I don't know whether to bother with the detail since I want to Zaino the car. Should I get the detail and then when it wears off, Zaino the car, or should I not bother with the detail since it'll do more damage than good?

I am hoping to maybe use the detail to get them to do the inside and wheels and maybe hand wash to get any sealant/wax off, before I clay and Zaino it.

Any thoughts...?

Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you found the guide helpful.

As to your questions:

Q: If I understand you correctly, only a machine will get swirl marks out.

A: Correct

Q: So ZPC will be a waste of time until I buy a machine. But how about Z5? They advertise that to remove light swirls...

A: Agreed. ZPC willbe a waste without a machine. As for Z5, it can hide very very fine swirls, but in my experience, the swirl hiding ability is not that great. If that is solely what you are buying it for I'm not sure how satisifed you'll be.

Q: I am hoping on dawning the car using your washing method and then claying and then 3 layers of Z2 PRO. Do you think that should hold up on a new car after shipping?

A: Absolutely. That will be more than enough.

Q: Should I get the detail and then when it wears off, Zaino the car, or should I not bother with the detail since it'll do more damage than good?

A: I would go to the dealer and see some black cars they have detailed. Find out almost first hand how good or poor of a job they do. See if they have induced any nasty rotary holograms on any of the cars. Also ask to meet the detailer. See if he's some 16 yo kid making minimum wage (like at most dealers) or if he is an actual pro. For me personally, I would not let the dealer touch my car. Just ask them to remove the cosmoline, and that's it. Don't even let them wash it. You should take it from there (was, clay, zaino).

Q: I am hoping to maybe use the detail to get them to do the inside and wheels and maybe hand wash to get any sealant/wax off, before I clay and Zaino it.

A: Let them do the interior for sure. Don't let them hand wash.

[blackie]

Thanks for your advice. I will definitely talk to them first and I am inclined to not let them wash it. I will see if they're any good and go from there.

I can't wait to try all this and make the car shine!

Cheers

[NPinUK]

Hi David,

I have been busy detailing my car (following your guide) this week in the few hours I get in the evenings and I must say the results are astonishing. I want to thank you for your write up and persoanlly I would shake your hand if I could.

I do have a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking?

1. Instead of putting SG on 1/3 of hood and buffing off like you mentioned I found that putting it on in even smaller amounts ,say few lines at a time, and then buffing off straight away befeore it completely dries is more effective with better results. However I wanted to know if this ok?

2. You mentioned that the cure time for SG is at least 24hrs before the nxt coat can be applied or it can come in conatct with moisture. I want to know if the cure time can be reduced if the temperature in the garage is increased say using a electric heater or will this have a negative affect on the SG. When I say increase the temperature I only mean slightly and not so its baking hot.

Once again Thanks.

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by NPinUK

Hi David,

I have been busy detailing my car (following your guide) this week in the few hours I get in the evenings and I must say the results are astonishing. I want to thank you for your write up and persoanlly I would shake your hand if I could.

I do have a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking?

1. Instead of putting SG on 1/3 of hood and buffing off like you mentioned I found that putting it on in even smaller amounts ,say few lines at a time, and then buffing off straight away befeore it completely dries is more effective with better results. However I wanted to know if this ok?

2. You mentioned that the cure time for SG is at least 24hrs before the nxt coat can be applied or it can come in conatct with moisture. I want to know if the cure time can be reduced if the temperature in the garage is increased say using a electric heater or will this have a negative affect on the SG. When I say increase the temperature I only mean slightly and not so its baking hot.

Once again Thanks.

Hey man. I'm glad things are aorking out well for you!

To you r questions:

1. You can wipe SG on and off on smaller sections if you wish. I just used the 1/3 of the hood as a guide.

2. You can't accelerate the cure time with heat unfortunately. Curing is not really drying like you are thinking.