[PerfectAce]

Originally Posted by sabino56

I have same question. I loosened control arm to release pressure on ball joint end so I could drop it out of spindle. I don’t see any adjustability in the control arm. The bolt is not eccentric, nothing on ball joint end either. I’ve seen people say you should do an alignment after messing with control arm or tension arm but don’t see why? Or how? Perhaps i’m Missing something.

If you swap to the M3 control arms, then yeah, you're gonna need an alignment because the geometry has changed. But otherwise, playing with those bolts won't do a damn thing to your alignment.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by PerfectAce

Yep. No need to replace unless damaged. The bavauto video is good, the only thing I do differently is NOT use a screwdriver to spread the strut pinch collar. There are also videos by autodoc.co.uk on YouTube that are good references for e9x suspension work.

Ok good to know. I did see those autodoc ones but didn’t fully watch. I will.

Also yea the bmw tool looks pretty good for spreading the collar. If i can find that cheap i may get it.

[drawz]

Originally Posted by pjr710

Ok good to know. I did see those autodoc ones but didn’t fully watch. I will.

Also yea the bmw tool looks pretty good for spreading the collar. If i can find that cheap i may get it.

CTA makes a virtually identical tool for spreading the collar, but it's cheaper and easier to find than the BMW one. I got it from Amazon.

If you loosen the control arm, make sure you don't tighten them back down until the suspension is at ride height. Otherwise, the bushing will be torqued constantly and wear out quickly.

[brocklanders]

Buy a Bentley manual, I had two e90's and an e82 the Bentley e90 manual was the best thing I bought for any of them.

[pjr710]

think this tool will work? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...facturing-4005

[pjr710]

Also just watched the autodoc.uk diy. Didn’t take off the caliper like bavauto and fully unbolted the one control arm. This way seemed easier.

However at the end when he tightened the control arms back he adjusted for ride height but it was about the height of the suspension when dangling.

What is the proper way to adjust for “ride height” when the car is in the air?

I was going to measure my centercap to top of fender when the car was on the ground. Then when retightening to rideheight would push up that far again with the car in the air.

That would be the correct way wouldn’t it?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by pjr710

Also just watched the autodoc.uk diy. Didn’t take off the caliper like bavauto and fully unbolted the one control arm. This way seemed easier.

However at the end when he tightened the control arms back he adjusted for ride height but it was about the height of the suspension when dangling.

What is the proper way to adjust for “ride height” when the car is in the air?

I was going to measure my centercap to top of fender when the car was on the ground. Then when retightening to rideheight would push up that far again with the car in the air.

That would be the correct way wouldn’t it?

Yes that will do it.

[sabino56]

You can jack up the spindle until just before the car lifts off the jack stand. I did this on one wheel but it’s little sketchy. I worried about the jack/wood block slipping while under the car tightening nuts.
On the other wheel, I put the wheels on and set it down on 3 pieces of 2x10 stacked up which gave me enough space to tighten nuts.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by sabino56

You can jack up the spindle until just before the car lifts off the jack stand. I did this on one wheel but it’s little sketchy. I worried about the jack/wood block slipping while under the car tightening nuts.
On the other wheel, I put the wheels on and set it down on 3 pieces of 2x10 stacked up which gave me enough space to tighten nuts.

yea that's def sketch!

I like the board method .. I can totally do that

[feuer]

Originally Posted by brocklanders

Buy a Bentley manual, I had two e90's and an e82 the Bentley e90 manual was the best thing I bought for any of them.

Better, more complete options online, for free.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by pjr710

I like to prep as much as I can before a job and not get met with any surprises.

I've read up and watched a few DIY's on doing this job and it doesn't seem too bad.

I am wondering if anyone has any words of wisdom they can share when doing this job.

The main things I'm not 100% sure on are:
1. if I need any special tools (i was going to get a cheap spring compressor from amazon, but are there other special tools i might need?)
2. I didn't see anyone really torque anything down, are there torque specs?
3. I am not 100% clear on which elements aside from the shock or strut I should replace. Bump stops? The Mounts? I like to just get wearables out of the way because I like to just touch things once and not have to go back and change it out later.

You should have a special strut socket.

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Schwa...22mm_24mm_Kit/

If you are over 100,000 miles, then yes replace all the surrounding hardware.

ECS tuning & FCP both have refresh kits for the hardware.

FCP will give you a lifetime warranty on all parts.

BMWfsns.info if your friend

[brocklanders]

Originally Posted by feuer

Better, more complete options online, for free.

I guess I'm old fashioned, I get a warm and fuzzy when I'm looking at ink and paper, I have a few downloaded maintenance manuals for my motorcycles and they're just too hard to navigate cause you have to scroll throught six hundred pages.