[walkerE90]

Hey bud. Great right up. I got the same code today for crankshaft this has only happened since installing JB4, also notice when on boost hard acceleration 4th to 5th on my steptronic autobox it would Rev high and not always engage to 5th, almost like its the torque converter and the dreaded transmission light comes on.. Appreciate this is a old thread and hoping your fault was resolved by changing the said sensor. Any advice would be great.

[BeastMode335i]

Thanks for the writeup, looks fairly simple.. My only debacle was where to buy it from.. $95 from O'Reilly or $12 from eBay haha, wtf.. BMW has it as well, but it's $105 (my price) but I hate the SM at my local BMW..

[Aleks2505]

Hi WalkerE90..I just got this code today and looking to do the same sensor replacement. Was your issue resolved?

[Esixty1]

Anybody ever seen this as being a fix for error 2A9A? My mechanic seems pretty adamant this is my issue...I'm letting him do it but suspect I'll be throwing away a few hundy before moving on to cam ledges or timing related work.

[Esixty1]

Originally Posted by Esixty1

Anybody ever seen this as being a fix for error 2A9A? My mechanic seems pretty adamant this is my issue...I'm letting him do it but suspect I'll be throwing away a few hundy before moving on to cam ledges or timing related work.

Just answering my own question here, just in case anyone else is ever in the same position... Changing the crank sensor failed to fix my issue. On to the next stage of troubleshooting.

[ATLIEN]

I've got this issue and am looking to buy the part. Prices are all over the place from $65 to $148 at the dealer. Any drawbacks with non-oem parts for this repair? I don't mind spending extra vs having an issue down the road but don't want to overspend either if it's not warranted.

[3.1L Z]

I've bought it from autozone. Before. Worked fine. Simple part.

[ATLIEN]

Originally Posted by SmellyGreek

Just completed this, the writeup helped alot! One note was that I bought an OEM Siemens/VDO brand replacement sensor, and the offset notch in the wiring plug part (to prevent the harness from being plugged in upside down) was in a different position than the original BMW sensor. I had to rush to the dealer and grab a genuine BMW one for ~$60 more to complete the job. Hopefully it was just a mix-up with mine only but I thought I'd give folks a heads up.

I am in the middle of this job and have the same issue with the offset notch in the wiring part. Off to the dealership I go.

[ATLIEN]

Originally Posted by ATLIEN

I am in the middle of this job and have the same issue with the offset notch in the wiring part. Off to the dealership I go.

Due to my offset notch I bought the part from the dealership for about $125. It had the correct offset and slid on easily. Reinstalling the cps took some finesse. I taped my extensions and added some rtv adhesive and a little tape where the hex bolt met the socket to make sure the bolt didn't move. Here's a picture of the two cps the correct one is on the right as you can see the tiny offset tab in the connector.

[weq92f]

My 107k mile, '07 335 needed this done. Symptoms were:

o Hard shutdown of engine during acceleration ( blips of shutdown, comes right back )
o CEL and limp mode.
o bad idle
o engine quit once while driving

I tried to get it from below but that was not going to work. Couldn't see anything from down there and the motor was hot, so that didn't help. So I went from the top like this thread suggested and had success. I taped my e8 socket to a swivel and extension to get the bolt loose, then pull the cable and unhook connector. Then had my wife help me with her small hands to get it back into position.

While I was there, I put in 6 new coils as well. Plugs were done at a few miles back.

The car runs like new again!!! No more stalling/CEL/limp mode.

-weq

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by sammy_0559

CrankShaft sensor 13 62 7 525 015, and the Gasket (O-Ring)
(NOT CAMSHAFT!!! my dad ordered that one set me back 3 hours -_-)

CMS, CKS, CPS they all sound same to me
what is big the difference

[PhantomMaxx]

I tried to buy and install the CPS then realized the plug would not fit because of the notch location as stated above. Frustrated I found out on the N54 there is another CPS towards the front of the engine just below the valve cover. This CPS location was easy to get to. This raises another question.

My code was P0335 CPS "A" circuit. Searched for hours none of the treads or tech notes mention which is A and which is B. Before I go out to the dealership to buy the "Right Part" how do I know for sure were it goes?

[WhatDoIPutHere]

Don't mean to bump an old thread, but can you re use the old gasket ring on the new sensor ?

[dboybord]

Originally Posted by PhantomMaxx

I tried to buy and install the CPS then realized the plug would not fit because of the notch location as stated above. Frustrated I found out on the N54 there is another CPS towards the front of the engine just below the valve cover. This CPS location was easy to get to. This raises another question.

My code was P0335 CPS "A" circuit. Searched for hours none of the treads or tech notes mention which is A and which is B. Before I go out to the dealership to buy the "Right Part" how do I know for sure were it goes?

THAT is a GREAT question. I am about to tackle the same issue with the same "A" circuit and knowing the answer before starting would be good.

Did you ever get an answer? What were your results??

[arkie6]

I just want to thank the OP for this thread.

I just went through this. Got the P0335 and P1727 codes and engine in limp mode last week. I ordered the Continental VDO (OEM) crankshaft position sensor and o-ring from RMEuropean. I installed it today and it fixed all of the issues. CEL cleared after I cleared the codes with my OBD II code reader.

The Continental VDO crankshaft position sensor was $72 while the BMW sensor was ~$125 at another online vendor. The original removed sensor had "BMW" and "Siemens VDO" stamped on it while the new sensor just had "Continental VDO" but you could see where the "BMW" mark had been partially laser etched off. The notch in the electrical connector lined up exactly the same as the original and the connector fit perfectly.

I initially installed the electrical connector before installing the sensor in the block, but the o-ring didn't want to seat with just finger pressure. I removed the electrical connector and used a 11/16" 1/2" drive socket and 6" extension to fit over the electrical connector and used that to push the sensor into the block and seat the o-ring.

Another thing I did was put some masking tape over the end of the E8 socket and shoved the head of the sensor bolt into the E8 socket. This held the bolt firmly while I guided into the hole with the socket and 3/8" drive extension.

Not a hard job. Kinda hard to see what you are doing, but I've done worse (2006 Nissan Altima 2.5L crankshaft sensor is way worse). It took more time getting the cowling cover and air filter box removed and re-installed than it did to remove and re-install the sensor.

[jonnones]

Thanks for the DIY! I did this today for the first time and it took only about an hour and a half. I needed to remove the cabin filter housing and air intake, but not too much trouble. I didn't need to double-up extensions, but did struggle with getting enough light down there to see what I was doing. To get the screw back in without dropping it, I just applied some scotch tap to the top of the screw and socket. Once it was in tight enough, it just pulled off.

I also order the Continental VDO (OEM) crankshaft position sensor and o-ring but from ECS Tuning. It was only $76, while the dealer quoted be at $225 for the part. I cleared the codes using a Bavarian Technic tool, and all is well.

[Ronin416]

I didn't want to waste my time doing it twice and took the advice of the other posters and just bought the OEM one as I needed it the next day.

• Pulled the sensor out with help of the harness (lightly) and it came out no problem.
  
• Cleaned the area up (careful not to push dirt into the hole). Inserted the new one and lined up the hole (check with flashlight).
  
• Then TAPED the screw to the socket so it wouldn't fall off, till the threads caught.
  
• Torqued to spec.

If you don't have skinny arms, a lot of shit has to come off. Better just finding someone skinny to get in there than take off the manifold partially off or jacking the car up if you don't have access to a hoist.

Originally Posted by jonnones

Thanks for the DIY! I did this today for the first time and it took only about an hour and a half. I needed to remove the cabin filter housing and air intake, but not too much trouble. I didn't need to double-up extensions, but did struggle with getting enough light down there to see what I was doing. To get the screw back in without dropping it, I just applied some scotch tap to the top of the screw and socket. Once it was in tight enough, it just pulled off.

I also order the Continental VDO (OEM) crankshaft position sensor and o-ring but from ECS Tuning. It was only $76, while the dealer quoted be at $225 for the part. I cleared the codes using a Bavarian Technic tool, and all is well.

[sirantsE90]

Hey guys, read through and didn't see anyone with this issue.

Car has been on stands for months while I get it ready for track duty. I went to start a few weeks ago and it started but immeadeltey ran like junk. Pulled codes for CPS, so I bought one from ECS. I put it in and got long cranks but no start. I put the old one back in, starts up but still throws codes and runs like shit. Returned from ECS and bought from my local dealer. SAME ISSUE.

Any idea why my old faulty CPS would allow the car to start but run like shit and the new CPS would allow crank but no Start?

thank you all

[Blkfirephoenix]

Hey man, great write up! I started to replace my crankshaft sensor on my 2006 BMW 325i today. Before I even took the Torx bolt off, the sensor felt loose. I took the bolt off (which I had to use an E10 socket instead of an E8 like ive read on other threads as well) and the hole the bolt goes in looks a little stripped. It looks like someone who owned the car before me, tried to replace it before, maybe with a bigger bolt (hence the E10 socket i had to use) What can I do? Do I have to rethread the hole or should I just take it to an Indy shop?

[sirantsE90]

Originally Posted by Blkfirephoenix

Hey man, great write up! I started to replace my crankshaft sensor on my 2006 BMW 325i today. Before I even took the Torx bolt off, the sensor felt loose. I took the bolt off (which I had to use an E10 socket instead of an E8 like ive read on other threads as well) and the hole the bolt goes in looks a little stripped. It looks like someone who owned the car before me, tried to replace it before, maybe with a bigger bolt (hence the E10 socket i had to use) What can I do? Do I have to rethread the hole or should I just take it to an Indy shop?

Nope mine was an e10 too. I was blindly trying to use an e8 like everyone else but mine took an e10. Bought a new aluminum bolt from dealer. Works and threads in great.

[ChadAndreoPhoto]

Lifesaver! 👍🏽

[Agarcia14]

Hey man this im new to this platform probably isn’t related this but Ima try it out but I recently got the code

P0015 - Powertrain
PENDING FAULT
"B" Camshaft Position -Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

Could it be my camshaft position sensor ? Itself , I got some new vvt solenoids, did a clean before hand to but it would pop out continuously