[bayerischer]

honestly i read this and i am still confused, anyone can make a video????

if you would maybe clearly say that all you are trying to do is to restrict connection in that particular one cable pin socket it would be more straightforward and we could do it various of ways, but to just say do this and do that is confusing especially for non native english speaker

[JuiceQuadre]

I think i get it, will give this a try just out of curiousity to see the effect on the car. Any idea if there are differences with EU cars?

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by JuiceQuadre

I think i get it, will give this a try just out of curiousity to see the effect on the car. Any idea if there are differences with EU cars?

The North American EGR utilization is different. I don't think you guys have this electrical motor/position control configuration.

[JuiceQuadre]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

The North American EGR utilization is different. I don't think you guys have this electrical motor/position control configuration.

Oh i see, thanks for that. One has to be careful with those differences..

[Andy198712]

Originally Posted by bayerischer

honestly i read this and i am still confused, anyone can make a video????

if you would maybe clearly say that all you are trying to do is to restrict connection in that particular one cable pin socket it would be more straightforward and we could do it various of ways, but to just say do this and do that is confusing especially for non native english speaker

Yes correct, remove wire from the plug. using a thin metal tool EG paper clip

[Len_Beach]

Originally Posted by Andy198712

Yes correct, remove wire from the plug. using a thin metal tool EG paper clip

Andy; have you done this on your 330d?

I'm still trying to think of some way we could remove the wire but not ignite the EML.

Could some form of resistor into the terminal not fool the ECU into thinking the EGR is attached but not trigger the EGR or is this terminal a reading feed and the control of the EGR controlled by the still connected cables?

[robnitro]

You can't fool the EGR. From the MAF it knows that there is too much fresh airflow. Then, sometimes it will close the throttle in front of egr to try and "recalibrate" as some have found here when putting a block off plate on the line that feeds into the EGR valve, which is worse than a check engine light that says "EGR valve bad" (in that case it just gives up on trying EGR it seems)

[Andy198712]

No I haven't deleted yet. Think mapping it out is the route I'll take when I get a dpf delete

[casmith3473]

Guys,

I am looking to end my CBU problem. Are there any side effects after deleting the EGR, such as smoking, etc?

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by casmith3473

Guys,

I am looking to end my CBU problem. Are there any side effects after deleting the EGR, such as smoking, etc?

With DPF and SCR intact, you're not gonna smoke any at all. The only side effect is it'll take slightly longer to heat up.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by casmith3473

Guys,

I am looking to end my CBU problem. Are there any side effects after deleting the EGR, such as smoking, etc?

There aren't any major downsides in terms of driveablity with an egr delete, I've been running with a deleted egr for more than a year (blocked before). The only negatives I've noticed are a slightly rougher idle when cold, slightly longer warm up.

The upside is it significantly slows down cbu (won't eliminate it) and the engine is more fuel efficient.

I still run with my doc, dpf and scr intact. I do think my def consumption has gone up a bit. I get about 7k-8k between refills now.

[ninja_zx11]

Thanks a lot torqueisking for documenting this modd.

Feedback: I did it around 4 weeks ago(around 1600 kms ago) and i monitored DPF parameters closely. My fuel economy increased and now i am getting around 100kms /tank more.Less frequent regens.Before i used to get regens after 200~220 kms and after the modd,last one i got after 320kms.I think regens are proportional to diesel consumed.So less fuel consumed--->less regens.And no carbon build up anymore!!

In future,I am planning to read my DDE and will send the file to some tuner to get only 3 EGR codes removed from the flash.In that way,i won't have check engine light for egr and will still get check engine light if any other problem comes up.I will keep my DPF,SCR system intact.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by ninja_zx11

In future,I am planning to read my DDE and will send the file to some tuner to get only 3 EGR codes removed from the flash.In that way,i won't have check engine light for egr and will still get check engine light if any other problem comes up.I will keep my DPF,SCR system intact.

Funny, I just PMd Andrew about this today... One would think that the EGR delete would be a primary thing to do for our cars... However, there is also the issues with the SCR system....level warnings and temp sensors and such... Just cant decide whether i would want my SCR system set to "ignore" or not. DPF on the other hand, that is more of a money/time commitment... Something I will definitely do some day, just not yet.

Seems like I remember a "clean" stage 2 or something a while back....not entirely sure but seems like there was something...

[007_e350]

Sorry for tangent here, any one knows how to disconnect the sensor on mb diesel, om642 motor? We bought another diesel, gl350 2010 due to our love for the bimmer d but that car is considerably slower and not as much fun... anyway, can someone poiby me to an mb pro, that forum is dead

[Major_90]

Here is a quick video on how to do it:

[derkenblosh]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

Sorry for tangent here, any one knows how to disconnect the sensor on mb diesel, om642 motor? We bought another diesel, gl350 2010 due to our love for the bimmer d but that car is considerably slower and not as much fun... anyway, can someone poiby me to an mb pro, that forum is dead

Been there... Just get tuned by GreenDieselEngineering. Done, fixed, better mpg, way more power

[jjbaldasano]

I will be doing CBU cleaning soon on my 335d and plan on also doing this reversible electrical EGR delete. What are the specific codes associated with this fix which will be generated so I can ignore when codes are scanned? Thanks

[Torqu3]

If you are doing this, you need to block the exhaust side of the EGR cooler in order to avoid extra stress on the cooler. Otherwise you're gonna have hot exhaust gasses slowly being pushed in the cooler, but unable to circulate. This will cause the heat to focus on one side(close to where the exhaust gasses enter), and the EGR cooler will crack, which was already a fairly common failure.

[robnitro]

I did block it and bypassed the cooler lines, which is extra insurance.
But some people want to be able to reverse it for inspection and removing a block on the exhaust side may be difficult for some people.

I was thinking more about this, for that case.

Having egr off vs on doesn't make more stress. Egr is off at high throttle anyway, when exhaust manifold pressure. With egr always off, the whole cooler assembly will not get hotter than coolant temperature. But with egr on, it gets hotter internally and this could be what weakens it in normal application.

Edit:
We can think with normal egr, it heats up under low loads when egr open, gasses gong through. At high throttle, egr closes, no gasses pass through and the egr cooler cools down to coolant temperature(coolant airways flowing through). Hot and less hot, and so on might weaken it more than if it was just at coolant temperature.


What is critical is to check your coolant level, because if the egr cooler does leak, with this delete, the coolant would not go into the intake, but exhaust manifold which I would think can damage the turbo exhaust impellers or the dpf?

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by robnitro

I did block it and bypassed the cooler lines, which is extra insurance.
But some people want to be able to reverse it for inspection and removing a block on the exhaust side may be difficult for some people.

I was thinking more about this, for that case.

Having egr off vs on doesn't make more stress. Egr is off at high throttle anyway, when exhaust manifold pressure. With egr always off, the whole cooler assembly will not get hotter than coolant temperature. But with egr on, it gets hotter internally and this could be what weakens it in normal application.

Edit:
We can think with normal egr, it heats up under low loads when egr open, gasses gong through. At high throttle, egr closes, no gasses pass through and the egr cooler cools down to coolant temperature(coolant airways flowing through). Hot and less hot, and so on might weaken it more than if it was just at coolant temperature.


What is critical is to check your coolant level, because if the egr cooler does leak, with this delete, the coolant would not go into the intake, but exhaust manifold which I would think can damage the turbo exhaust impellers or the dpf?

But you will still have a concentration of high temperature exhaust gasses at the exhaust side through heat transfer between air. That cooler isn't gonna be at coolant temperature, at least not throughout the whole cooler. Someone who has done this electrical block, go drive for a few minutes, and then point an infrared thermometer around the cooler and see what it reads.

I do agree with checking coolant levels being the most important thing. You definitely don't want liquid going through your turbos or your DPF.

[robnitro]

I don't know the exact calculations of how much gas flows in and out but just a crude idea.

Let's say normal emp is 7 psi (21.6psi absolute) and a wot run is 45psi (59.6psi abs).
During a low to high pressure change, there is a ratio of 59.6/21.6= 2.75x.
So during this change in pressure 2.75 the volume of the egr cooler at normal 7 psi passes in and gets dumped back out when the exhaust pressure drops back. But during sustained high emp, there's little to no flow back/forth.

I would think most of the heat at the exhaust side is from contact with the hot exhaust manifold.

I never took readings before my block unfortunately, but just thinking out loud about the amount that flows in and out during pressure changes doesn't seem much compared to normal egr use.
It also means that if you stop the egr, the cooler won't be passing much heat to help warmup.

I can say this is true when I kept my vw tdi egr cooler in the loop but egr tuned off. Then we figured out how to do dynamic egr tuning where egr stops when coolant is warm and that is when we saw quicker warmups compared to no egr. On the bmw, iirc, the egr cooling circuit gas route is bypassed when cold to prevent extra soot, so the bmw egr helping warmup is probably less than the tdi got from it.

[cucucachu]

Am thinking of doing this egr function delete. Has anyone else tried this instead of the block off method lately?