[SvenHz]

Hi wrongmark I have your issue exactly, could you please let us know how it went after you replaced the hydraulic valve? My failure is intermittent, the oil pressure drop is minor in those cases, but there are also cases where the oil pressure when idle is spot on (verified in INPA).

[wrongmark]

I’ve PMd you

[natanalmeida99]

Originally Posted by wrongmark

I’ve PMd you

Olá, tenho uma 325i e90, motor n52, 2011. Recentemente encontrei os cosidos de erro 2A99, P13B6 e 30C1. Após pesquisar bastante vi que poderia ser culpa dos vanos solenóides, então os tirei e limpei. Vi também que um dos vanos estava praticamente solto, o parafuso não pegava mais rosca. Troquei o parafuso e os erros sumiram, exceto o 30C1, você poderia me dizer o que fez para resolver esse problema?

[natanalmeida99]

[COTAÇÃO=SvenHz;27697405]Oi @[marca errada](contato:301803) Eu tenho exatamente o seu problema, você poderia nos informar como foi depois de substituir a válvula hidráulica? Minha falha é intermitente, a queda da pressão do óleo é pequena nesses casos, mas também há casos em que a pressão do óleo quando ocioso está no local (verificada no INPA).[ /COTAÇÃO]

Ola, tenho o mesmo erro, como você conseguiu resolver? Sou novo no fórum e ainda não tenho como acessar PM, por favor, respondam por aqui!

[natanalmeida99]

como você resolveu seu problema?

[wrongmark]

Hi Natanalmeida99. Please read my last two posts. That’s how I solved it. The error code has not returned.

[natanalmeida99]

Ok, muito obrigado! Eu já havia lido, mas não tinha certeza de que o erro teria sido resolvido. Só uma pergunta, que válvula hidráulica é essa? Seria a solenoide do vanos?

[wrongmark]

I’m sorry but you have a different engine and I’m not familiar with it. You need to look at the diagrams on Realoem. You may need to remove the oil sump to inspect further.

[ShineALight_]

wrongmark Got a 2011 E90 LCI with N43, I've also got the 30C1 code pop up lately however no weird noises I have had the oil pressure sensor replaced but still 30C1 came up, I am thinking of to replace the Hydraulic Valve '11417584990'. Since you done yours has it fixed your issue?

Thanks

[wrongmark]

So when I originally had the error, there were no other warning signs (noises, irregular oil consumption etc.) or EML. I just happened to be checking for error codes when I saw it. After clearing it a few times, I found that it returned within a day or two. It concerned me because I had read experiences where engine failure followed due to oil starvation at the crank. I understand that this code can often point to broken bits of timing chain guide blocking the oil pickup. However, I started at the cheapest fixes first. I first of all just removed the hydraulic valve and cleaned it. This seemed to prevent the code coming back, but I went ahead and replaced the valve with a new one as a precaution. I still own and use this car regularly and it’s still fine and still on the original timing chain at close to 100k miles now with no signs of any issues. I did replace the timing chain tensioner around the same time as a precaution as I’m pretty obsessed with car maintenance in general. I think I’m going to keep the car for the time being so I may replace the timing chain anyway but only as a precaution.

Hope this helps.

[rpg]

Just wanted to thank ‘wrongmark’ for all your contributions. It was great to read the thread and have the various updates. I have very similar problems, chain seems solid/tight, oil is clean but very occasionally I get the oil pressure light. My car (E91 318i LCI) cost me £2k back in 2019, I’m certainly not going to be putting in the level of work described above at this point (160k miles). It may have had timing chain work done prior to my ownership, I just don’t know, no documentation of it anyway. Happy to chance the solenoid valve however and keep it going until it dies.

Thanks again.

[wrongmark]

Originally Posted by rpg

Just wanted to thank ‘wrongmark’ for all your contributions. It was great to read the thread and have the various updates. I have very similar problems, chain seems solid/tight, oil is clean but very occasionally I get the oil pressure light. My car (E91 318i LCI) cost me £2k back in 2019, I’m certainly not going to be putting in the level of work described above at this point (160k miles). It may have had timing chain work done prior to my ownership, I just don’t know, no documentation of it anyway. Happy to chance the solenoid valve however and keep it going until it dies.

Thanks again.

No worries. Just be aware that I never had an oil pressure light on the dash or the EML. In my case it was just a fault code stored. FWIW we still use the car daily and it's still going strong on the original timing chain at probably 110k miles.

[rpg]

Great, good to hear. Hopefully many more miles. Yes, I have noticed that actually. I’ve had the oil pressure light twice (a few months apart some time ago) but scanned the other day and the same ‘30C1 oil pressure control, static’ error appeared but I haven’t had a dash warning for this one.

I’m possibly living on borrowed time with mine, but willing to do the valve for £100 as it owes me nothing. I do v. little mileage (just over 15k miles in 3 years) but it’s had 3 oil changes so I treat it well. Thanks again.

[BimmerMW]

I had the same issue but mine was caused by stop/start. The car would then go into limp mode. It was reproducible which was good.

The solution was to replace the Oil Pressure Control Valve which is no.12 in the picture. This is for an E90 318i N43. I also replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor at the same time.

You cannot clean this valve - you must replace it. I've not had any issues since it was replaced.

[davida3544]

Originally Posted by BimmerMW

I had the same issue but mine was caused by stop/start. The car would then go into limp mode. It was reproducible which was good.

The solution was to replace the Oil Pressure Control Valve which is no.12 in the picture. This is for an E90 318i N43. I also replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor at the same time.

You cannot clean this valve - you must replace it. I've not had any issues since it was replaced.

Hi
First post here. Really great thread here, it’s really helpful.
Maybe a stupid question but do you have to drop the oil before removing the hydraulic valve?
Cheers, Dave

[BimmerMW]

Originally Posted by davida3544

Hi
First post here. Really great thread here, itÂ’s really helpful.
Maybe a stupid question but do you have to drop the oil before removing the hydraulic valve?
Cheers, Dave

As long as the car has been sitting still for a while, it should be fine as the oil just sinks to the sump. The valve is higher than the sump.

Be careful when you remove it as you can snap it (the case part) by wiggling it too much as you pull. It depends on how long it's been in there, the condition of the engine etc. There was a video about this but I can't find it, unfortunately. Might be wise to use some penetrative oil around the case first. In this video, it actually snapped and the guy had to drill it out! I don't think anyone wants to go there.

You might find this useful:

[davida3544]

Thanks so much for the quick reply. It’s a 2011 so maybe it’ll be a bit of an issue removing.

[rpg]

Just a follow up that replacing that hydraulic valve cured my random oil pressure warning light. Replaced November last year and hasn’t returned since. I contemplated BMW original part but went with Febi 182760 instead, worked perfectly. Roughly half the price of OEM. Just replaced the valve, didn’t bother with the pressure sensor in the end. Hope this helps someone.

[wrongmark]

Originally Posted by rpg

Just a follow up that replacing that hydraulic valve cured my random oil pressure warning light. Replaced November last year and hasn’t returned since. I contemplated BMW original part but went with Febi 182760 instead, worked perfectly. Roughly half the price of OEM. Just replaced the valve, didn’t bother with the pressure sensor in the end. Hope this helps someone.

Glad to hear it. Still have mine also and still going strong at 115k miles.