[Lulz_M3]

Glad you got it worked out, thanks for sharing.

[tcw]

Your duty cycle still looks very high, also your logs look a lot like mine... might need to try this. How much did the solenoid cost?

Log is with race gas and meth additive 70. Logs look similar on additive 40 with just a smaller delta between target and actual boost.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by tcw

Your duty cycle still looks very high, also your logs look a lot like mine... might need to try this. How much did the solenoid cost?

Log is with race gas and meth additive 70. Logs look similar on additive 40 with just a smaller delta between target and actual boost.

It has always Been high...it s a lower than it was but still high...I am using a 45/55 E85/93 mix. I replaced both for $246.00 you can get them here for $99.00...,I just didn't want to wait lol!!

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335...ost/ES2498186/

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Lulz_M3

Glad you got it worked out, thanks for sharing.

Took a bit of testing but found it....I have replaced vacuum canister, all vacuum lines, booster lines, gaskets ect and it was these little boogers lol!!

[TenshiWingusu]

About how long did it take for your canisters to come to 26" once you hooked up the gauge? It took mine a good 5-10 seconds to get there but once it does it's steady. Just replaced both solenoids however im still having boost issues... Boosts fine stock but with the PROcede in map one I'm short about 6 PSI of target...

[pits200]

Originally Posted by robc1976

Took a bit of testing but found it....I have replaced vacuum canister, all vacuum lines, booster lines, gaskets ect and it was these little boogers lol!!

Bump.

Been having boost issues and just tested vac on the solenoids, some help would be appreciated.

1.) With the car off I removed the top vac line off the canister that leads to the solenoid, I put this line onto the handheld pump and both solenoids bled off at different rates, one being very fast.

2.) With the car on, the solenoid near the rear firewall didn't move the gauge at all and showed 0hg. As for the solenoid near the front of the car, that held about 13hg of vac.

Can I come to any definitive answer from this testing?

How would I get the wastegates to move with the vac pump?

Thanks

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by pits200

Bump.

Been having boost issues and just tested vac on the solenoids, some help would be appreciated.

1.) With the car off I removed the top vac line off the canister that leads to the solenoid, I put this line onto the handheld pump and both solenoids bled off at different rates, one being very fast.

2.) With the car on, the solenoid near the rear firewall didn't move the gauge at all and showed 0hg. As for the solenoid near the front of the car, that held about 13hg of vac.

Can I come to any definitive answer from this testing?

How would I get the wastegates to move with the vac pump?

Thanks

To test the wastegates there is a line coming directly off each Wastegate, put vacume to each Wastegate and yiu will hear them open and shut.

[pits200]

Originally Posted by robc1976

To test the wastegates there is a line coming directly off each Wastegate, put vacume to each Wastegate and yiu will hear them open and shut.

Thanks so much, I'm guessing the car doesn't need to be on for this.

Also, what about the process I did for testing the solenoids, does it sound like what you did, I'm a little unsure if my testing verified anything

Thanks again.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by pits200

Thanks so much, I'm guessing the car doesn't need to be on for this.

Also, what about the process I did for testing the solenoids, does it sound like what you did, I'm a little unsure if my testing verified anything

Thanks again.

Car can be off, what I would also do is tak the line fom the canister to the selonoid and see how much Hg it is pulling (so plug you vac into the line that normally goes onto the boost selonoid.)

[pits200]

Originally Posted by robc1976

Car can be off, what I would also do is tak the line fom the canister to the selonoid and see how much Hg it is pulling (so plug you vac into the line that normally goes onto the boost selonoid.)

I did that and the firewall one held the vac much longer than the one near the front.

But I was thinking about this, wouldnt you want the vac to not hold at all if the car is off? Wouldnt you want the vac solenoid to flow freely until it is activated with voltage?

Im so damn confused, lol.

I dont understand why the rear one held vac better with the car off but once the car was on it held no vac at all.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by pits200

I did that and the firewall one held the vac much longer than the one near the front.

But I was thinking about this, wouldnt you want the vac to not hold at all if the car is off? Wouldnt you want the vac solenoid to flow freely until it is activated with voltage?

Im so damn confused, lol.

I dont understand why the rear one held vac better with the car off but once the car was on it held no vac at all.

Car has to be on for the procedure above, but for the wastegates it can be off....basically drawing vacume on the line moves the Wastegate, so your vacume pump is just like the pump on the car.

[GoodtoGo]

Did some testing of my own today.

First test was to see vacuum integrity of various parts of the system. This was all done with a mighty vac type pump and a cheap vacuum gauge.

Did a leakdown test from vac canisters back to vac pump. Pulled 25" and observed no leakdown.

Isolated lines going to wastegate to do a leakdown test on those. Pulled 25" and observed no leakdown. Rear wastegate was closed at about 7" which is the one you can see easily.

Did an individual leakdown test on the boost solenoids by pulling a vacuum on the supply port. Both did not hold vacuum. The rear on was not so bad leaking down from 25" to 20" in about 30 sec. The front one leaked down quite a bit faster. 25" to 20" in about 10 sec. There is speculation as to whether this a good test for a good solenoid. I wasn't sure so I did some additional testing. I needed to see how it performed when energized.

I made myself a ATR map to provide max WGDC at idle, which the stock and other stages limit to 57% (I didn't change this). This allowed me to test without having to drive WOT with a hose and a vacuum gauge in the cabin. I verified the map worked by monitoring live data.

With the engine running, I checked the vacuum supply system and found it was pulling 26.5" when isolated from the solenoids and 25" when connected to the solenoids. I then checked the vac output from each solenoid individually with my test map (WGDC at 57%). Rear boost solenoid produced 21.5" and the front produced 21". I figure 0.5" difference between the two is not too bad and it appears that the solenoid that did not hold vacuum well on the inlet was still performing reasonably well.

Next step is to do a boost leak check. Want to make sure everything is in good working order.

Thoughts?

[Joshboody]

I purchased new solenoids recently out of curiosity and with engine off 1 holds vac, but the other doesn’t. So I believe this test is invalid. There was no difference in boost control with the new solenoids. So I ended up removing my DPs and found my higher DC/response issue… front WG shaft.

[boostaholic786]

so my buddy is still on stockers but if he has already done the 15ohm mod and is still having problems with wastegate adpatation being about 117 and sometime higher. The car performs well with his E85 mix and him being FBO running current firmware. I help him out since he doesnt know as much about this as i do... Yet I'm still figuring stuff out because of this forum. Pretty cool. But anyways where are the vac solonoids located? And what causes this wastegate adaptation to go up or be maxed out? the car holds boost fine for stockers (hitting 17.5psi tapreing to 15psi at 6200 and by about 6600, at 14psi. I havent had this issue myself but what is this exactly doing to the car by having near maxed out or maxed out wastegate adaptation? Just curious for future knowledge.

[TrollToll]

Resurrecting this thread to ask a question. Does anyone know yet if there is a good way to test the solenoids? This thread has mixed information.

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

Resurrecting this thread to ask a question. Does anyone know yet if there is a good way to test the solenoids? This thread has mixed information.

Would like to know as well

[Sgop335]

Relatively easy. Need A good vacuum gage and a helper.

1. Each solenoid is tested separately. The bridge hose is removed and gage connected to the tee with other tee plugged.
2. First car stationary, check idle vacuum for each solenoid. Software rattle setting plays a role here. Should read 14-17in for low lag setting and close to 0 for high lag. I havent checked intermediate mhd rattle settings to know the number.
3. Car moving! Need a helper. Hose should be long enough to route thru passenger window. Checked 3rd and 4th gears. Typical stuff, rpm around 2k, at full throttle gage should quickly spike to abour 20in or more hold there a bit and then drop may be 8 or less. This replicates your wgdc seen in logs. Idle and decel values could be hi or lo depending on sw setting similar to 2.

[Monstere92]

Originally Posted by robc1976

I have heard that if your boost solenoid goes out you get a under boost code 30FF...but if they are weak you will just be under target due to the Wastegate not closing all the way. Each solenoid has 2 vacuum nipples, wich one shoud I draw vacuum on to see if there are working properly (hold vacuum)? Do you know of a better way to test these? "Vroom" has a very great thread for testing these that involves a T and driving WOT with a line and gauge coming thru the window....I would do this but have nobody to read the gauge while I am going WOT in 3rd lol!!

Should I just see if it each selonoid will hold vacuum? Should anything be connected...like the other lines when testing these?

What code did you get ?

[Red_Bean_Bun]

Originally Posted by Monstere92

What code did you get ?

Thread is over 3 years old ...

[sbmws]

Originally Posted by GoodtoGo

Did some testing of my own today.



Did an individual leakdown test on the boost solenoids by pulling a vacuum on the supply port. Both did not hold vacuum. The rear on was not so bad leaking down from 25" to 20" in about 30 sec. The front one leaked down quite a bit faster. 25" to 20" in about 10 sec. There is speculation as to whether this a good test for a good solenoid. I wasn't sure so I did some additional testing. I needed to see how it performed when energized.

I know I’m digging up an old thread here but I’m trying to get the same answer as a few others have asked which is if the Solenoids are unable to hold vacuum when using the manual hand pump vacuum test with the car off does it mean the solenoids are bad and need replacing?

I’m trying to chase a very slow boost, slow spool problem and want to rule out the solenoids before I move elsewhere

I’ve done the other tests, idle, Vac canisters and even manual closing WG actuators with the hand pump and all seems fine

The only one I’m not sure of for now is the fact my solenoids will not hold vacuum when applied manually with the car off

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sjbmw

I know I’m digging up an old thread here but I’m trying to get the same answer as a few others have asked which is if the Solenoids are unable to hold vacuum when using the manual hand pump vacuum test with the car off does it mean the solenoids are bad and need replacing?

I’m trying to chase a very slow boost, slow spool problem and want to rule out the solenoids before I move elsewhere

I’ve done the other tests, idle, Vac canisters and even manual closing WG actuators with the hand pump and all seems fine

The only one I’m not sure of for now is the fact my solenoids will not hold vacuum when applied manually with the car off

If you are sure of no vacuum leaks, and the waste gates are not sticky or stuck, then yes I would think solenoids. Either way they are a very common maintenance item and pretty cheap. Just replace for peace of mind and it may also solve your issue.

[sbmws]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

If you are sure of no vacuum leaks, and the waste gates are not sticky or stuck, then yes I would think solenoids. Either way they are a very common maintenance item and pretty cheap. Just replace for peace of mind and it may also solve your issue.

They are about $450 for the pair parts only here in Aust so dont want to just replace them if they are fine

If your cars running fine spooling up quickly and boosting fine you think you could do us a favor and test boost solenoid to see if it holds vac with car off?

Would put this issue to bed for everyone I guess once and for all

Its pretty easy with hand Vac and car OFF, plumb into the Vac canister line for each solenoid and also tee off the other nipple that runs to wastegate actuator lines, then with hand Vac get up to 20-25 HG and just see if they hold Vac with the car OFF or if they bleed out