[studio54]

Hello,

Thank you for this excelent guide.


For the same price, would you rather :

- Buy a std battery + Carly & module to register a new battery
- Replace my AGM by the same AGM spec battery + register via MHD (that i already have)

I also read somewhere that if you disconnect the IBS in the trunk, you do not need coding (shadow code but no light) ? Battery life maybe not as good than with it, but by how much ?

[induscyka]

anyone got APK for carly full version?

[ziddak]

I'm replacing battery with 100ah Lead Acid. Current car reading shows 90ah AGM which I'm guessing is what the car came with when new. It's an 09 328i xdrive which I bought from original owner. He replaced battery some years ago with Duracell 100ah Lead Acid and obviously never coded it. I bought the exact same battery as I didn't know what was in it originally. So when I register and code I'll change from AGM to Lead Acid. Then should I choose 90ah or 110ah? I've read other posts that suggest choosing an ah thats the same as what's going in. If that value is not an option, to stay as close as possible
In the example shown in this post, the choice was either 90 or 110!
What is the safe bet since my new battery is 100ah?
Thanks

[OrcaPod]

Originally Posted by ziddak

I'm replacing battery with 100ah Lead Acid. Current car reading shows 90ah AGM which I'm guessing is what the car came with when new. It's an 09 328i xdrive which I bought from original owner. He replaced battery some years ago with Duracell 100ah Lead Acid and obviously never coded it. I bought the exact same battery as I didn't know what was in it originally. So when I register and code I'll change from AGM to Lead Acid. Then should I choose 90ah or 110ah? I've read other posts that suggest choosing an ah thats the same as what's going in. If that value is not an option, to stay as close as possible
In the example shown in this post, the choice was either 90 or 110!
What is the safe bet since my new battery is 100ah?
Thanks

From my research ( i had to get new battery) the safest option is to use lower possible setting for new battery.
so if you have a 100ah battery then go with 90ah setting in your car.
otherwise if you set your car to 110ah then it might overcharge your battery which holds only 100ah and this will decrease battery life

[ziddak]

Thanks for your reply. However, I posed the same question on Bimmerfest and one of the senior members (very reliable and an engineer) advised to go with 110 ah setting. His quote " A flooded lead acid battery can have electrolyte water replaced, so it is not damaged by unlikely overcharge."
Also of note, My radar detector has a voltage readout feature, and the charging range is noticeably steady and within specs. Not over charging and not erratic.
I think I've found the sweet spot!

[arkie6]

Originally Posted by ziddak

Thanks for your reply. However, I posed the same question on Bimmerfest and one of the senior members (very reliable and an engineer) advised to go with 110 ah setting. His quote " A flooded lead acid battery can have electrolyte water replaced, so it is not damaged by unlikely overcharge."

That is true, but when was the last time you checked or added water to a "Maintenance Free" flooded lead-acid battery?

[ziddak]

Originally Posted by arkie6

That is true, but when was the last time you checked or added water to a "Maintenance Free" flooded lead-acid battery?

The point is, you don't!

[delmarco]

Just to add my 2 cents. None of this worked for me and not to blame this thread but my car was a special case where the previous INTERSTATE battery we pulled out had no data markings so I was guessing what AGM replacement battery to buy and code to my 2011 335i ($179 to $250 was the best prices at Autozone and Sams Club).

After buying and returning several batteries (none of which worked) I decided to opt for piece of mind and paid the stealership to do it for me.
I was going crazy after a year of dealing with a battery that died every other day.

In the end they charged $199 for a battery and $253 labor with warranty on the work and battery.

Being an avid DIYer I would have love to save money on a silly battery but this was really annoying me.

Thanks for this thread.

[JunkyardDogg]

I tried INPA but there is no power module under E90. I opened Tool32.exe and opened the MSD80 file for ecu and ran job once. The status says OKAY. Does this mean my battery is registered?

[bNks334]

Originally Posted by delmarco

Just to add my 2 cents. None of this worked for me and not to blame this thread but my car was a special case where the previous INTERSTATE battery we pulled out had no data markings so I was guessing what AGM replacement battery to buy and code to my 2011 335i ($179 to $250 was the best prices at Autozone and Sams Club).

After buying and returning several batteries (none of which worked) I decided to opt for piece of mind and paid the stealership to do it for me.
I was going crazy after a year of dealing with a battery that died every other day.

In the end they charged $199 for a battery and $253 labor with warranty on the work and battery.

Being an avid DIYer I would have love to save money on a silly battery but this was really annoying me.

Thanks for this thread.

I am not sure what ANY of that has to do with this thread. The battery size required for these vehicles is well known. the trunk will fit H6-H8 batteries I believe. Maybe even some other sizes. The stock battery is pretty beefy @ 80-110AH. M-cars run much smaller batteries to save weight. It varies. My car turns over using a little 20lb 36AH battery that I've had for 3 years now. So, I have no clue what you were doing wrong to be buying batteries that were dying every year. Maybe your alternator or belt aren't charging correctly?

You code the car to whatever battery you buy. Again these cars will turn over with as little as 360CCA. This really isn't all that complicated and now bimmergeeks has released a new "protool" app that makes this process idiot proof to code and register a battery.

[Cabdriver]

I registered a new battery then went to code the battery for 70amp AGM, when I tried to code it, I got the following message:

Error in CABD! Look at CABI.ERR and ERROR.LOG!
COAPI-2020: SG antwortet nicht IFH-0009:SG nicht angeschlossen
oder meldet sich nicht ULF2_HI
COAPI-2020:SG antwortet nicht SG_CODIEREN

Can anyone help me understand what this means? Thx!

[fanlonso]

I have few questions regarding the battery change:

1) The highest option for the AGM battery is 90 Ah. What would happen if I use 110 Ah AGM? Will the battery life be shortened?
2) Can I somehow disable the recuperation? I mean, I’d like to have my car charging the battery all the time to constant level (hence increasing its life and always arrive with fully charged battery) as it happens in all other vehicles without IBS.
3) Could using 110 Ah flooded battery setting (and actually using AGM battery) reduce, or completely disable, the recuperation?

[edsonreds]

Hi, thanks for the DIY. Have some problems:

I have Rheingold 3.43. My cables connect perfectly (checked with INPA), the system reads my car (correct VIN number and other stuff); but I dont have the "VEHICLE MANAGEMENT". Is there a problem with my version?

[edsonreds]

Originally Posted by fanlonso

I have few questions regarding the battery change:

1) The highest option for the AGM battery is 90 Ah. What would happen if I use 110 Ah AGM? Will the battery life be shortened?
2) Can I somehow disable the recuperation? I mean, I’d like to have my car charging the battery all the time to constant level (hence increasing its life and always arrive with fully charged battery) as it happens in all other vehicles without IBS.
3) Could using 110 Ah flooded battery setting (and actually using AGM battery) reduce, or completely disable, the recuperation?

Originally Posted by fanlonso

I have few questions regarding the battery change:

1) The highest option for the AGM battery is 90 Ah. What would happen if I use 110 Ah AGM? Will the battery life be shortened?
2) Can I somehow disable the recuperation? I mean, I'd like to have my car charging the battery all the time to constant level (hence increasing its life and always arrive with fully charged battery) as it happens in all other vehicles without IBS.
3) Could using 110 Ah flooded battery setting (and actually using AGM battery) reduce, or completely disable, the recuperation?

Hi:

1) you can use +90ah as long as you code it. Manufacturer can recommend using 80ah but you can but more as long as it is correctly registered in the car. If registry and battery are not the same, you will have battery issues.
2) dont know the answer to that.
3) as long as you properly register it nope. Notice that AGM is specially made for start-stop technology. Dont know consequencies of using a flooded battery in such a vehicle.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by fanlonso

I have few questions regarding the battery change:

1) The highest option for the AGM battery is 90 Ah. What would happen if I use 110 Ah AGM? Will the battery life be shortened?
2) Can I somehow disable the recuperation? I mean, I’d like to have my car charging the battery all the time to constant level (hence increasing its life and always arrive with fully charged battery) as it happens in all other vehicles without IBS.
3) Could using 110 Ah flooded battery setting (and actually using AGM battery) reduce, or completely disable, the recuperation?

You seem to be confused about the function of the IBS... IBS helps keep the battery at full charge and helps extends it's life. You are misunderstanding what is being said by "overcharged." You do not want to keep applying a charge to an already full battery. That kills its lifespan.

"Recuperation" you seem to be referring to the degenerative compensation algorithm that "registering" a battery is related to. This algorithm changes the alternator output to match the batteries health as it ages. this again improves efficiency of the alternator load and increases the lifespan of the battery.

so not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

[ballerofreal]

hi All, im new here, would like to know anyone here tried taking out the battery(unplug from the car) and charge it? then does it require re-coding/registration when i put i back in?

my battery is kinda dead from not driving it for long time, so wanted to give it a shot by charging it first. also cause i stayed in an apartment, hence im not able to leave it charging while it is in the car as there isnt any power port available.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by ballerofreal

hi All, im new here, would like to know anyone here tried taking out the battery(unplug from the car) and charge it? then does it require re-coding/registration when i put i back in?

my battery is kinda dead from not driving it for long time, so wanted to give it a shot by charging it first. also cause i stayed in an apartment, hence im not able to leave it charging while it is in the car as there isnt any power port available.

You should be fine. Batteries discharge at a different rate as they age. registering a new battery just resets the algorithm that biases the charging profile over time. Recharging a flat battery doesn't make it new.

[bNks334]

bump, re-wrote some stuff in the original post. The coding part was a bit wrong. I had originally wrote this off the top of my head. Just did some coding last night so I updated it to reflect the correct process. Changing the VO is easy but re-coding the modules requires sending a blank .man to the affected ecus. Or, use a profile with NO manipulation to code the ecu.

[Yangorang]

Here's screenshots from the Bimmergeeks Protool app regarding battery registration. It's very easy to do and I highly recommend this app - just hit Battery Swap from the main Vehicle page and it will automatically set the KLASSE_BATTERIE parameter and run the STEUERN_BATTERIETAUSCH_REGISTRIEREN procedure.
The Vehicle Order information is very easy to set as well but it does not get changed automatically when you run the Battery Swap - just uncheck your current battery option and check the new one from a list of Add-On options.
https://www.bimmergeeksprotool.com/
It does not appear that there is any easy way to code for any battery capacity outside of the list that BMW provides. I find it especially odd that they give options for a 46Ah standard battery and a 40Ah AGM battery...I mean who would even use these?

[Rmcampanholi]

Hey guys i just got an e92 m3 manual gearbox like 50 days ago and yesterday i got my first "limp mode" on the car. Also, i noticed some eletric malfunctions like lamps that dont work and "increased battery discharge" advise on pannel. Guy that sold me the car said battery was changed 3 months before, like September/2019. Question is: can changing the battery and not registering/coding lead to "limp mode" or is it actually a mechanical problem (not electric)? Ty in advance and sorry for my bad english.

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by bNks334

I am not sure what ANY of that has to do with this thread. The battery size required for these vehicles is well known. the trunk will fit H6-H8 batteries I believe. Maybe even some other sizes. The stock battery is pretty beefy @ 80-110AH. M-cars run much smaller batteries to save weight. It varies. My car turns over using a little 20lb 36AH battery that I've had for 3 years now. So, I have no clue what you were doing wrong to be buying batteries that were dying every year. Maybe your alternator or belt aren't charging correctly?

You code the car to whatever battery you buy. Again these cars will turn over with as little as 360CCA. This really isn't all that complicated and now bimmergeeks has released a new "protool" app that makes this process idiot proof to code and register a battery.

If this was idiot proof and as easy as you say then this thread would not only not exist but it also wouldn't be frequented with questions, patch-solutions, and a case-by-case resolutions.

My case was complicated in that I did not have an OEM battery in my car. At the time I bought my car it was 4 years old with barely 40k miles on it so the fact that I found a lifeless unmarked dirty aftermarket battery in the trunk was a big red flag that the original owner or dealership that sold me the car was up to some shady stuff.

Said and done the dealership charged $200 for a new battery and $230+ for labor with a good warranty in case something goes wrong. (Actually BMW had a free labor (or $100 off parts) coupon that month for battery replacement which I missed by a week otherwise this would have cost me substantially less than I paid.

I'm saying if you cats are already spending upwards of $200+ for AGM and special batteries then struggling to code it and make it sustainable why not spend a bit more and get it done by the idiots that decided to sell such complicated cars that need battery coding.

Also at the time of my battery replacement they found something faulty in the electronics that was fixed free under warranty.

So there's that.

[rockyboy]

good DIY.. thanks...