[lowrydr310]

What does your ev entric shaft connector look like? Unplug it - is there any oil on the pins?

I had some starting issues and some intermittent rough running the day after I bought my used 330 that ended up being a failed eccentric shaft sensor. I didn't have any oil on the pins, but replaced the sensor and it solved the issues. It was original in the car, 135k miles and 14 years old.

[WheelNut2]

New CCV system is in: New valve cover to oil separator hose, new oil separator, and a new oil separator to oil pan hose. No change! Still runs rough. Getting that manifold out is pretty tough, but I did learn a lot about how the intake on the N52 works, so that was interesting and enlightening. The complexity of this engine is shocking.

I will rent a fuel pressure gauge this week and also look into how to diagnose and eccentric shaft sensor.

lowrydr310- How did you diagnose the eccentric shaft sensor as being problematic on your car? ISTA? Multimeter? Something else?

[BReif61]

A faulty eccentric shaft sensor typically throws a code, but checking for oil infiltration is easy. Just pop the connector off and look at the sensor side of the connection. If you see oil, it's game over for that sensor.

[WheelNut2]

Eccentric shaft sensor was as dry as a bone.

I rented/borrowed a fuel pressure tester from Canadian Tire, but of course it didn't have the correct adapter for the car. Looks like I'll have to buy one or find a different rental source

[sabino56]

Just curious on how rough/uneven is the idle?
A few hundred rpm, needle jumping around or hunting up/down, etc?
You mention worse at hot start/idle. When your in garage trying to sort it, does it run rough to some degree 100% of the times your start it or sometimes yes, sometimes no.
Can you post a video of it running rough?

I don’t have any great ideas, just trying to get better idea of the problem. These things can be really frustrating - good luck.

[WheelNut2]

Originally Posted by sabino56

Just curious on how rough/uneven is the idle?
A few hundred rpm, needle jumping around or hunting up/down, etc?
You mention worse at hot start/idle. When your in garage trying to sort it, does it run rough to some degree 100% of the times your start it or sometimes yes, sometimes no.
Can you post a video of it running rough?

I don’t have any great ideas, just trying to get better idea of the problem. These things can be really frustrating - good luck.

Video of cold start here:

I've been meaning to record a hot start video too, but I just haven't got to it yet. The behavior is similar, but a bit worse. I'm taking the car into the local indy BMW specialist shop on Thursday, so I'm hoping they'll be able to diagnose what is going on. I asked around locally to try to get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge, but no dice yet.

[WheelNut2]

I did a fuel pressure test today. All good. 70psi. No change on the gauge either twenty minutes after shutting the car down. I replaced the fuel pump on my step mom’s E46 last weekend and the symptoms of that were different than what I’m getting with obvious engine stumbles with throttle application.

I wasnt able to take the car to the indy shop earlier in the month and I’ve rescheduled for the 23rd. I’ll update you all then.

[sabino56]

Perhaps try without accessory belt/accessories running and see if idle variation is the same.

[WheelNut2]

I took the E90 into the local indy mechanic today. Had them rebalance the tires and look at the rough idle. I'll be picking the car up tomorrow and getting the full report from them then, but from what we spoke about on the the phone their primary suspect is the NTK solenoids as they claim to have seen lots of issues with non-genuine solenoids in the past. They did see some Vanos codes, not sure how though since I got nothing with ISTA, INPA and a hand held code reader with a BMW database. They also did some diagnostics on the injectors and coils- no issues. Their recommended course of action was to address what they think is often the root cause of these things- dirty oil, so they recommended a "hot oil flush", an oil change , a software update and then installation of the BMW Vanos solenoids. If that didn't work their next thing on the list was a malfunctioning of the vanos adjuster unit or possible loose or damaged bolts on the vanos adjuster.

Codes that were found:
002A85 DME: Exhaust Vanos, activation
002A80 DME: Intake Vanos, activation
002A87 DME: Exhaust Vanos, mechanism,


I'm going to do an oil change and install some authentic BMW Vanos solenoids and see what happens. I will also look into updating the DME software as they claimed that it has not been updated since 2009. The oil in there was changed in October but it only has 5000km (3000mi) on it, so it ought to be pretty clean, but its about time to change the oil anyhow.

Anyone know the best place to buy authentic BMW parts? FCP seems to have a decent price on the Vanos solenoids, but is there another trustworthy source that is even cheaper?

[WheelNut2]

Genuine BMW Vanos solenoids are in the car. And, drumroll please...no change! $500(CAD) down the drain On to the next thing then.

[LanDzia]

Originally Posted by WheelNut2

Genuine BMW Vanos solenoids are in the car. And, drumroll please...no change! $500(CAD) down the drain On to the next thing then.

Any update so far?
I've been following your threat as its exactly what I have and done exact same things...

[s5s]

Bad crankshaft position sensor?

[WheelNut2]

I just received a proper smoke machine from Amazon to test for leaks properly. Hoping to use it within a week. I'm getting married in July, so things are very busy right now! Tough to find time to work on the car. I can definitely say that the BMW solenoids made 0 difference. I wish I could return them! I'll keep you guys updated as I go along.

There is one other thing I checked yesterday. I saw a video where a guy was getting Vanos codes and his car was missing the oil filter cage/oil return plug thing. He put the cage in and his troubles disappears. My filter cage was in place, so nothing to be gained there.

[WheelNut2]

Oil pressure tester/gauge ordered. Will give that a go next week. Will leak test the manifold/vacuum system this weekend.

[crashoverride]

Wow you have fought the good fight and replaced more than most would've. Sounds like the dealership would've actually saved you money on this one.

I've had similar issue. It came down to at least one bad ignition coil (how did they test..??). I would for sure replace them all at once.

Does the rough idle go away when you turn the AC off as there is a known problem and fix for that type of rough idle.

Or I have no experience on this guess but the idle control valve can get dirt stuck in it and can be often blown out with air.

I look forward to your future updates as I follow with interest your efforts.

[WheelNut2]

Idle control valve? That I haven't heard of or seen. Where is that located? Google search hasn't really brought up any answers.

[crashoverride]

OE Numbers
13411744713, 13411738981

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by crashoverride

OE Numbers
13411744713, 13411738981

Does the N52 have an idle control valve? I don't remember seeing one. Valvetronic does a mush better job.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Does the N52 have an idle control valve? I don't remember seeing one. Valvetronic does a mush better job.

I never heard, read or seen one neither.

[WheelNut2]

Originally Posted by crashoverride

OE Numbers
13411744713, 13411738981

According to Real OEM & FCP Euro these parts are for the M series engines. Not shared with the N52.

Sorry guys, I still haven't had time to do the vacuum or oil pressure tests. I will update y'all when that happens! I'm getting married at the end of July, so things are very busy right now.

[WheelNut2]

An update (finally!):

I did an oil pressure test and vacuum leak test today at lunch.

Oil pressure was at 70psi at cold idle. At hot idle the pressure was about 50psi, and at 3000rpm it was at 80psi. The needle was really bouncing around super fast between 45-60psi at hot idle and I don't know if that is normal or not? The oscillation of the gauge moved in accordance to the engine RPM, so I'm guessing the oil pump creates pressure pulses as it operates.

After the oil pressure test I did another leak test because I didn't trust the test I did months ago using my pickle jar leak tester. This time I used a smoke machine and inflatable bulb from Amazon that made quick and easy work of this test. I could NOT find any leaks.

So, the car has oil pressure, which is good! I'm no longer worrying about whether or not I'm going to lose my engine bearings, which is a relief. However, I'm not really sure where to look now.

[sabino56]

Perhaps check DISAs to see if flap is loose? I’ve read they can break. I’ve no experience on whether a bad DISA could cause rough idle like yours.
Outside one is easy. You can get inside one off by removing alternator and reaching in from there.