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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > installed meth yesterday on dyno



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      07-24-2014, 11:02 PM   #23
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I found out all the pumps for different meth kits are made by the same company its the nozzles where they are taking the technology, DEVILSOWN nozzels are the best, im putting a kit together right now, going to use my DI-urea tank for the meth...$400 WITH EVERYTHING ILL POST WHEN INTALLED...
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      07-25-2014, 08:05 AM   #24
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Greek the DIESEL impressed everyone and I was invited to join the club by the club President, I hate to say no cause these guys are CRAZY on the road most of them have raced in tracks and know how to drive , what i like is that they hv something going in Sept at a track down here and im interested in it maybe Ill join who knows
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      07-26-2014, 07:27 AM   #25
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still not working good, i did put maximum on clockwise, need help.

TDIWYISE rescue me !
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      07-26-2014, 07:58 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by arayz View Post
Hi i had 325 whp no meth ( very hot day ) and with meth i got 340, thats 15 whp gains and its to small i should be making more power, we found the problem though, the engine gets to little meth, cuz i had meth all the way home 900 km and it only used 7 liter total (50water/50meth)

The nozzler is a cm10 that should be big enough but i will buy a bigger, u guys think it will help ?

Or its maybe the pump gets to little electracy what i read about in n54 section

I have same kit as hotrod ( cooling mist recomended it, its for n54) but still that should not be the problem its feels like its flucating like a heartbeat (pulse) think it should be stronger


Regards rami
Some quick thoughts.

https://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisp...njectors,parts

I'm not familiar with this companies nozzles, but the CM10 seems to be rated at ~800ml/min. That's about what my AEM flow gauge (http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=pro...nol-flow-gauge) shows me pushing at ~4000 rpm's and above on my setup. I think going bigger with a 50/50 H2O/meth mix would be bad for power as it seems to be on the edge of quenching the combustion from what I've seen. But if you're throwing in that much at lower rpm's then you might be quenching things already.

How are you controlling things? Manually like Hotrod (I believe he had a on/off button he was using) or via boost or MAF control?

If you're using boost and engaging the full 800 ml/min flow at low rpm's you're likely quenching the combustion which will then lower boost which could then shut off the flow which would then not be quenching which would then raise boost again ... and produce the fluctuating you mentioned. If this is happening you should be able to log its behavior by checking the "desired" vs "actual" boost the system is seeing.

If you don't have a flow gauge, and haven't already, I'd also suggest pulling the nozzle out and then engaging the pump to check the spraying of the nozzle.

Also, where is your nozzle installed? Are you using a solenoid or check valve or both?

I'd suggest going to a lower flow nozzle instead of a bigger one to help diagnose. Bigger isn't always better...
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      07-26-2014, 10:48 PM   #27
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Thanks for the answear, i have both on and off swith and i control by boost, i tried what u said it start in 17 psi and hit maximum 25 psi (did not work)

I change the wiring from cigarette lighter to battery it gave 13.8 volt and cigarette lighter 12.1 (did not help)

Ill take a picture of where its installed 2morrow, i use one solenoid

i turned the maximum psi clockwise on the pump (dint help)

Ill buy a couple off nozzles bad thing is shipping takes one month
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      07-27-2014, 07:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arayz View Post
Thanks for the answear, i have both on and off swith and i control by boost, i tried what u said it start in 17 psi and hit maximum 25 psi (did not work)
Think I either didn't explain it correctly or it got misinterpreted. I was referring to rpm's, not psi. The 335d is a bit unique compared to my other turbo diesels in that it can make full boost at basically any rpm (even below 2000 rpm's). So even if you move the start psi up to 17 (or even 25) with your nozzle size and 50/50 mix you can be quenching at low/mid rpm's. As the rpm's rise so does the amount of air going into the cylinders for a given amount of boost. The higher the rpm the more fluid it can take without quenching at a given boost.

This is a pretty good video demonstrating the impact of quench on a turbo diesel with various amounts of flow. It may help better explain the issue I'm trying to describe for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDlpa1NVJ0s
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      07-27-2014, 09:43 AM   #29
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now i dont have another nozzle and no shop in sweden sells it, is there anything i can do meanwhile until nozzles come ?
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      07-27-2014, 09:52 AM   #30
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Yea thats true cuz when i use cruise control, the boost goes upp when its upphil but rpm is the same. but my problem is that the meth kit aint shooting in enough meth and you mean my car is the reason and blocking the meth system?
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      07-27-2014, 11:55 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by arayz View Post
Yea thats true cuz when i use cruise control, the boost goes upp when its upphil but rpm is the same. but my problem is that the meth kit aint shooting in enough meth and you mean my car is the reason and blocking the meth system?
Previously you said " its feels like its flucating like a heartbeat ". I thought this was in reference to the car, which would indicate power pulsing ... which is similar to how quench feels. If that's the case then you are using too much ...

Unless you get a gauge (see my link earlier) you won't know for sure how much you're injecting. You could try a visual test where you remove the nozzle (you'll have to plug the hole with an npt plug...) and have it coming out by your windshield and then you could "see" if it's injecting when you think it should be and get a rough idea if it's actually injecting (this would isolate the pump, solenoid, injector, controller...).

You really need to be taking some comparison data with measurements (flow gauge, boost readings (desired vs actual), IAT's, EGT's, injector timing and opening times, etc.) if you want to nail this down.

It might also be that your system (the 335d runs tightly controlled feedback loops) isn't letting you get full use of the extra power as it senses and adjusts things to try to control the vehicles behavior. This can be seen if you log the right kinds of data.
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      07-29-2014, 05:31 PM   #32
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Yes but the car keep going strong

New nozzlers orderd now smaller and bigger, they dint have a flow gauge

Btw the solenoid is installed back of the car csn that be the problem ?
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      07-29-2014, 06:12 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arayz View Post
Yes but the car keep going strong

New nozzlers orderd now smaller and bigger, they dint have a flow gauge

Btw the solenoid is installed back of the car csn that be the problem ?
Personally I would mount the solenoid in the engine bay. When it shuts any pressure in the line beyond it's point could cause the nozzles to produce drips instead of a mist. Since you are having quench issues it would be advised to move the solenoid.

When I initially did my install I screwed up wiring a relay which resulted in the pump producing very low pressure under 20psi. I had all kinds of quench until i fixed that.

Also regarding a flow gauge, AEM makes a great one. It's universal.
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      07-29-2014, 08:38 PM   #34
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Yeah I would put the solenoid as close as reasonably possible
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      07-30-2014, 01:11 AM   #35
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Will reinstall today running 75meth/25water ( i get 5 liter for 10 dollars) thats to cheap i almost want to run 100 %
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      07-30-2014, 06:29 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arayz View Post
Will reinstall today running 75meth/25water ( i get 5 liter for 10 dollars) thats to cheap i almost want to run 100 %
Another thing a flow gauge is good for is to let you know if you spring a leak (like the tube coming out of the injector or solenoid...). If you're going above 50% methanol the risks involved with the possibility of spraying your hot engine bay with this extremely flammable liquid become very severe...

If you're not even sure your system is injecting and/or working right, do you think it wise to go above 50%?

Are you measuring your EGT's? Increasing methanol % and volume can start increasing EGT's dramatically and damage your engine...
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      07-30-2014, 07:24 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Another thing a flow gauge is good for is to let you know if you spring a leak (like the tube coming out of the injector or solenoid...). If you're going above 50% methanol the risks involved with the possibility of spraying your hot engine bay with this extremely flammable liquid become very severe...

If you're not even sure your system is injecting and/or working right, do you think it wise to go above 50%?

Are you measuring your EGT's? Increasing methanol % and volume can start increasing EGT's dramatically and damage your engine...

hm but it is injecting but its injecting to slow, as i saw on dyno it gave 15 hp more,im sure its not leaking anywhere after runing ive been checking the spots and they are all closed, but my friend has a flow gauge so we will check everything today actually, your the king TDI !
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      07-30-2014, 07:26 AM   #38
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Picture of the car

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...r&notif_t=like


video when accerlating with methanol on:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
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      07-30-2014, 09:54 AM   #39
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Perhaps disconnect the line from the nozzle and bring in into the cabin from under the hood. put the line in a 2 liter bottle and see if stuff actually comes out of it when the system engages.

This could be something like a burr from cutting the hose has clogged the nozzle.

(yes you will have a small boost leak during this, but that should be okay)
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      07-30-2014, 06:04 PM   #40
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Problem solved, nozzler was bad we change it out, big minus from cooling mist

Now im getting traction problems at 130/kmh

Prolly have over 380 perhaps 390
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      07-30-2014, 07:36 PM   #41
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Great. I had to go to these for daily drivers due to traction issues (tried Continental DW's and Mich PSS's but 1/2/3rd gear gave problems ... even with the Quaife LSD). At least now 3rd is reasonably solid.

https://www.nittotire.com/race-tires...g-radial-tire/

So far I'm very pleased with these nt555r's. And they do reasonably well in the rain.
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      07-31-2014, 02:41 AM   #42
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Tdiwyse they are so expensive to ship to sweden i saw ur post before so i looked around i have 295 toyo r888
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      07-31-2014, 10:03 AM   #43
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arayz you bastards get the COUPE and we don't damn it thats what i wanted a DIESEL Coupe damn BMWNA. BTW its sweet looking amigo!!
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      08-01-2014, 11:43 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arayz
Problem solved, nozzler was bad we change it out, big minus from cooling mist

Now im getting traction problems at 130/kmh

Prolly have over 380 perhaps 390
When you remove the nozzle filter from the backside of the nozzle, there's a small diaphragm inside and if reversed it can massively change flow rates. At least on my ASI nozzles.
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