[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by Sidewinderpb

Yeah man, they're the same (99.99% sure). Ever notice that our rears go lower than the fronts ?

I may have read this wrong, but did you say that you're only getting -1 degree of camber on the stock equipment? I'm spun down all the way on the V3's, and I've got about -2.6 degrees in the rears IIRC. Maybe that's because I'm still on crappy stock 17's. Idk, I'm no suspension guru.

Thanks bud!

[Sidewinderpb]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

Thanks bud!

Not really sure if I helped at all...but any time dude!

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

camber plates for rear camber?

I didn't even read that part.

[E9TOU]

I'm a little confused as to what's needed to adjust camber safely as there's a lot of information in this thread (thanks). From one of the linked threads, it looks like with stock components, rear camber can be adjusted to up to -3 degrees? But in doing so, the toe is being adversely affected and cannot be fixed even with an alignment? So, in order to remedy this, adjustable toe arms are needed? Why are new LCA's needed as well?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by E9TOU

I'm a little confused as to what's needed to adjust camber safely as there's a lot of information in this thread (thanks). From one of the linked threads, it looks like with stock components, rear camber can be adjusted to up to -3 degrees? But in doing so, the toe is being adversely affected and cannot be fixed even with an alignment? So, in order to remedy this, adjustable toe arms are needed? Why are new LCA's needed as well?

The longer arms allow toe to be adjusted correctly when excessively lowered as the lowering forces the camber to be more negative. The toe goes more negative as well. So the longer toe arm pushes camber out as well as toe in. It can't do either separately.

[asian010]

U need rear toe arms and rear upper camber arms bro lol

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by MrTerryliu

U need rear toe arms and rear upper camber arms bro lol

Realized that. Thanks bud!!

[Moony]

I recommend getting megan racing toe+ camber arms. I have them installed right now and have them set at -3.5 on each side and can easily go more - if i wanted to. It does come with a factor of eating your tires faster but minimizes the rub entirely.

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by cchong4

I recommend getting megan racing toe+ camber arms. I have them installed right now and have them set at -3.5 on each side and can easily go more - if i wanted to. It does come with a factor of eating your tires faster but minimizes the rub entirely.

That's perfect. I was looking at those earlier this week. Appreciate the input bud.

[raceyBMW]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

again not a stance guy but my understanding is, if you're lowered enough, your camber goes more negative and your toe in goes positive. If you adjust the lower control arm (shown in the pic) to make camber even more negative, toe in goes even more positive and at some point, adjusting the stock toe arms doesn't work enough to get a proper toe in number. I think this is what justpete is talking about as well.

Going to an alignment shop might clear up the mystery of how negative you can make camber and still have acceptable toe.

If toe cannot be brought into spec, there are adjustable arms out there such as http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogu...RM/E9X_TA.html
Note they discuss the lowered car issue as a reason to buy. Not cheap though...just another reason I haven't dropped my car...at least not yet

100% this....lower your car to the spec you want, adjust the camber to where you want it (or need it) with the eccentric bolt I showed earlier, and then have the shop try to get your toe to spec. Toe is adjusted by the arm right above the one in the pic, with the eccentric bolt at the end that is concealed by the exhaust. If they can't, then you need adjustable toe arms...rogue or megan or hotchkis will work, though don't expect them to have a life similar to the other arms in the car, they will wear out quicker. Other alternative is to raise your rear ride height. I think I have read some even replace the lower perch with the one from the M3 which I believe provides more negative, though I could just be imagining that one.

You should be able to get -2.5 to -3 degrees on the rear with stock suspension arms, maybe even more if you are significantly lowered. You can get even more negative camber with camber links which can shorten or lengthen the upper guide rod and upper wishbone to adjust camber...they get pricey.