[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by robc1976

All at the same time, then switched to powerflex. I noticed no vibration with lockdown and this is with 2 other cars that I have installed this on. One has M3 and other has powerflex. I prefer the powerflex. The M3 would have to be marginally better also for the pain of installation. I can swap out powerflex in under 2 hours, not happening with M3. I have a ton of M3 parts but this is not one I will have. I will also say I prefer the powerflex sway-bar bushing a lot better also as they do not bind the suspension and move freely on the bar. I noticed less vibration with this also. With all that said I wouldn't go powerflex black either.

I'm with you on this one... I am running the M3 SF bushings and I feel they are still too compliant/deflect too easily. I wish I'd gone with powerflex given their nature.

That said, I'm running PF blacks on my front sway bar with no complaints whatsoever. I just don't feel that sway bushings are major contributors to NVH so that's somewhere I prefer to use a high durometer material.

Still running the OEM style M3 sway bushings on the rear because they are so hard to swap out. I prefer the powerflex for the same reason you stated.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I'm with you on this one... I am running the M3 SF bushings and I feel they are still too compliant/deflect too easily. I wish I'd gone with powerflex given their nature.

That said, I'm running PF blacks on my front sway bar with no complaints whatsoever. I just don't feel that sway bushings are major contributors to NVH so that's somewhere I prefer to use a high durometer material.

Still running the OEM style M3 sway bushings on the rear because they are so hard to swap out. I prefer the powerflex for the same reason you stated.

powerflex black on sway actually may help things work hard corning ect. Where did you get yours?

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by robc1976

powerflex black on sway actually may help things work hard corning ect. Where did you get yours?

Exactly, my friend. Got mine from ECS tuning.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Exactly, my friend. Got mine from ECS tuning.

I may just get some of those then, got my purple powerflex from them

[ashmostro]

Don't forget to buy a tub of synthetic grease... Amazon sells some.

[andrey_gta]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

What difference does it make...he has all that stuff NOW in addition to the Powerflex bushings and they still have shown to be much more compliant. If he didn't have the lock down kit and LSD w/ the M3 bushings, having those items would have obviously made it even worse.

Difference is that someone looking to do only subframe bushes ( on a 328i/128i/330/325i) can do stiff bushes, even derlin and maybe aluminum without harsh effects. These paired with m3 diff bushes should still produce a happy outcome.

Someone with a n54/n55 that wants a lock down kit has to be a lot more strategic because stiff bushes on Diff (such as aluminum/derlin) cause issues of vibration and noise when paired with Hard subframe bushes.

That is why I wanted clarification to categorize the appropriate application. His statement about Poly bushes with aluminum lock down kits will help numerous people deciding on m3 or poly on their high powered 335i/135i

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by andrey_gta

Difference is that someone looking to do only subframe bushes ( on a 328i/128i/330/325i) can do stiff bushes, even derlin and maybe aluminum without harsh effects. These paired with m3 diff bushes should still produce a happy outcome.

Someone with a n54/n55 that wants a lock down kit has to be a lot more strategic because stiff bushes on Diff (such as aluminum/derlin) cause issues of vibration and noise when paired with Hard subframe bushes.

That is why I wanted clarification to categorize the appropriate application. His statement about Poly bushes with aluminum lock down kits will help numerous people deciding on m3 or poly on their high powered 335i/135i

+1 for an excellent explanation, thanks.

[alexx03]

what are you guys using for Diff bushings?

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I'm with you on this one... I am running the M3 SF bushings and I feel they are still too compliant/deflect too easily. I wish I'd gone with powerflex given their nature.

That said, I'm running PF blacks on my front sway bar with no complaints whatsoever. I just don't feel that sway bushings are major contributors to NVH so that's somewhere I prefer to use a high durometer material.

Still running the OEM style M3 sway bushings on the rear because they are so hard to swap out. I prefer the powerflex for the same reason you stated.

Originally Posted by robc1976

powerflex black on sway actually may help things work hard corning ect. Where did you get yours?

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by alexx03

what are you guys using for Diff bushings?

I'm running powerflex purple. Only the slightest of gear whine... can only hear it at high maintained speeds with the windows up and radio off. Very glad I did that while i was getting the LSD put in. Stock bushings are horrible!

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by alexx03

what are you guys using for Diff bushings?

I use solid bushings that come with lockdown kit.

[alexx03]

thanks guys

[rob1024]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I'm running powerflex purple. Only the slightest of gear whine... can only hear it at high maintained speeds with the windows up and radio off. Very glad I did that while i was getting the LSD put in. Stock bushings are horrible!

+1 here. I got black race subframe bushings and love them. Next week installing new lsd and be going also black series for the differential. Good stuff.

[ashmostro]

Rob are you running the BMW group N subframe bushings?

[rob1024]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Rob are you running the BMW group N subframe bushings?

No. I got AKG 95a(black race) poly subframe bushings. I don't think at all that they added much NHV. Rear end feels like one piece now. Nice and solid when pushed hard in the corners. I also had the upper M3 links installed and inner camber link and toe link bushes done at same time but used the whiteline black for those locations. Overall a big difference. Now just doing the final step of lsd and differential bushings. I decided on black series vs the purple as I run aggressive Wedge flash that flexes the crap out of stock diff bushings. Talked to Powerflex rep and they recommended the black series. They are 20% stiffer then purple street diff bushings

[rob1024]

Originally Posted by rob1024

No. I got AKG 95a(black race) poly subframe bushings. I don't think at all that they added much NHV. Rear end feels like one piece now. Nice and solid when pushed hard in the corners. I also had the upper M3 links installed and inner camber link and toe link bushes done at same time but used the whiteline black for those locations. Overall a big difference. Now just doing the final step of lsd and differential bushings. I decided on black series vs the purple as I run aggressive Wedge flash that flexes the crap out of stock diff bushings. Talked to Powerflex rep and they recommended the black series. They are 20% stiffer then purple street diff bushings

Update
After MFactory lsd and Powerflex race 95a diff bushings the car still has slight tendency to torgue steer to the left under hard launch conditions. But it's been reduced tremendously compared to stock lsd and differential bushings. The gear whine is almost non-existing. I wish I had gone with solid Turner diff or a lock down kit honestly. Power is nothing if you can't control it.

[ashmostro]

That's awesome dude! Cool that you are trying the Mfactory diff... assuming you went with helical type? I'm thinking of swapping my Quaife out with a Giken over the winter or early spring. I really could use the better locking for the track.

May want to also check your alignment settings if you haven't confirmed that they are spec'ed the same left and right.

[rob1024]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

That's awesome dude! Cool that you are trying the Mfactory diff... assuming you went with helical type? I'm thinking of swapping my Quaife out with a Giken over the winter or early spring. I really could use the better locking for the track.

May want to also check your alignment settings if you haven't confirmed that they are spec'ed the same left and right.

My alignment was done a month ago and and it was set exactly the same on both sides of the car. I am running following specs
Front. -1.5 neg camber with toe in of .08 both sides. Total of .16 toe in Front
Rear has -2.0 neg camber with .15 toe in. For a total of .30 toe in. Car drives and handles nicely. It's the low speed acceleration that causes the torque steer. But again with 460+who anything less than lock down diff just will not cut it. I think the main reason for this phenomena is the location of the main rear diff bushing which is located to the left of center looking from the rear and causes excessive subframe load on the left side. Which in turn pushes the rear end to the right side under WOT. That's why lock down kits work by leveling the torque load on both sides of the subframe. I am thinking about fabricating a bracket for a secondary rear 95a race bushing on the right side of the diff utilizing the same location for the rear bush as the lock down kit for a fraction of the cost.
It's the uncentered location of the rear diff bush that's responsible for the dreaded steer to the left in my opinion.

[rob1024]

As far as MF lsd goes it's a very high quality and proven unit. I got the helical as I do mostly street but they do offer the plate type race units also. I think you owe it to yourself to check them out. I think the price of the plate unit was around $1000 so it's a very inexpensive option. They are also utilizing forged materials in the lsd itself so they are very durable. I am very happy with my unit so far. I would say it's quieter than stock open diff. My installer told me that the fit and quality was great. The positive rewievs about their products keep coming up.
Check the One wheel wonder threat for all the info.

[AWDBooSTIn90]

So for someone that DD's their car. Has about 400-420whp. Doesnt really want added vibration, but some added noise is ok i guess. What do you recommend for subframe bushings and differential bushings?

I learned alot from this thread, im just trying to get your opinion for someone im my situation. Which i think is the same for a lot of people on here. Someone looking to upgrade rear stiffness significantly, but not go "all out" race stiffness. Lol

I dont want to buy the diff lock down kit right now. I think i would buy an lsd before i got that.

Should i go with powerflex purple all around to keep it somewhat stock-like or just go all out with the black series?

How about solid subframe bushings(black/delrin) and powerflex purple for the diff or even m3 for the diff? Or do you think thats too soft to be worth the trouble and $$ to install?

Btw im doing everything myself.

I plan on doing autocross with my car and prob 2-3 track days a year.

[pobudz]

I just did the OEM M3 subframe and diff bushings and its been an unbelievable difference. I compare it to the difference between oem suspension vs coilovers.

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Originally Posted by rob1024

Update
After MFactory lsd and Powerflex race 95a diff bushings the car still has slight tendency to torgue steer to the left under hard launch conditions. But it's been reduced tremendously compared to stock lsd and differential bushings. The gear whine is almost non-existing. I wish I had gone with solid Turner diff or a lock down kit honestly.

I was going to ask about how this reduces the dreaded "axle hop" on launch , but I'm not sure how relevant the question is now that you have LSD.

Originally Posted by rob1024

Power is nothing if you can't control it.

+1000!

[chris82]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Anyone ride in a car with both of these options?

Trying to decide between OEM and the Powerflex bushings for my E92 rear subframe.

Trying to get my suspension track(ish) ready, also wondering if people think the M3 front control arm upgrade makes a noticeable difference? What about OEM front M3 sway bar?

The M3 front control arms make a significant difference. Having been in a car with similar dampers/spring rates/race camber plates/same tires, one with the M3 control arm upgrade and one without, I can say with certainty that it is a worthwhile upgrade. Steering is less vague (it's like you can feel more of the tire surface right up to the sidewalls. In my car without the M3 control arms, it's like you can only feel a narrow center patch of the tire surface). Steering and direction changes are sharper as well since there is less deflection due to the solid rubber cores on the M3 arms vs. the fluid filled bushings on the non-M arms.