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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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How to remove N52 valve cover
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10-08-2014, 11:44 PM | #23 |
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Specs are posted in my previous post. 63 in lb then 90 deg. I did all to 63 in lb in a pattern than tightened up in the same pattern another 90 deg. Mark each bolt with sharpie when you final torque it.
You want to tighten a bolt on one side, then do the opposite side bolt, then zig to the other two sides. Start in the middle. Your goal is to provide even pressure to the gasket when tightening. Doing all bolts one side at a time will tilt it and deform the gasket. |
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10-09-2014, 09:32 AM | #24 | |
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Drives: 06' E46 M3 ZCP
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Great information, thanks.
I will be attempting this job this weekend. My biggest concerns are the bolts snapping and properly placing the VC back in place. Many people have said mentioned how difficult it is due to the lack clearance in the rear of the engine bay. Quote:
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10-09-2014, 01:22 PM | #25 |
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Drives: 2009 328I E90
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Use a gasket holder to secure the gasket to the vc, and use your best judgement when tightening the bolts
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10-10-2014, 07:34 PM | #26 |
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Drives: 06' E46 M3 ZCP
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10-10-2014, 08:41 PM | #27 |
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Dude come on read the thread, I posted above the the 328 has a different gasket and valve cover (plastic).
You should also replace the valvetronic motor gasket and eccentric shaft sensor seal. You have to replace the bolts on cars with metal valve covers. This is everything you need, Last edited by RemovedUser; 10-10-2014 at 08:49 PM.. |
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10-10-2014, 08:46 PM | #28 | |
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Drives: 06' E46 M3 ZCP
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Lol, thanks. I have all of that and the sensor as I need to have that replaced as well. My bad but just wanted to be safe.
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10-21-2014, 09:27 PM | #29 |
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That pic above includes the gasket for the eccentric shaft sensor seal. Our valve cover is off right now, and I wondering how easy it is to put the new eccentric seal in place? I can't seem to get the existing one out. It is pretty well hardened.
The new one is super flexible, and just pops right in there, correct? |
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10-22-2014, 08:52 PM | #30 |
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Answered my own question today. "No."
The new one is not flexible and the old one needed some decent gripping with channel locks to get it out. I ended up tearing the gasket and then bending the plastic circle frame. I don't know how anyone could replace this gasket without access to it from the inside of the cover! With some force and care, I was able to get the old one out. I used a circular piece of wood to press the new one into place. |
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10-22-2014, 09:22 PM | #31 |
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I made this video when I put the valve cover back on the head. I did this because (at least on my model) there was no reason to cut any of the cowlings, or make any other modifications in the engine compartment.
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10-22-2014, 11:20 PM | #33 | |
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Quote:
Although, the reason I knew to start at the rear right corner was because I remember that was the last part to come out. |
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10-22-2014, 11:32 PM | #34 |
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How long did the removal take you? (Time you spent actually pulling the cover off)
This job definitely is easier on first year N52's with the Mag cover, the profile gasket on the 328's looks like a nightmare. Did you notice any corrosion on your valve cover mating surface like mine? I'm getting it resurfaced before the reinstall. Already ultrasonically cleaned (not pictured and came out pretty good) |
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10-23-2014, 03:15 PM | #35 |
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Taking the cover off took me 4 or 5 hours total to get from opening the hood to setting the cover on the work bench. I go slowly and between watching various DIY videos along the way, using my Bentley manual, and dealing with things in the actual world of my garage, that's about right for me.
I could reverse the video, if that would be helpful. You'd basically watch me take it off by watching the above video in reverse. Would that be helpful? I did not notice any corrosion on my valve cover, just a nice smooth gray-ish coating all around. Here's a pic I took right before taking the cover to the car wash for final cleaning. |
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