[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by Technic

Excellent write up...

What is your impression of the new Stereo harness (longer extension cables, longer Quadralock harness, extension cables fully wrapped in OEM cloth tape)? Did it meet your expectations?

Hello Technic,

Actually your stereo harness is simply an OEM grade, i like the quadralock extension and long cables running to the trunk. I also like the OEM close wrapping and terminal legend printings were so impressive

Thanks for this product, you rocks

[Hopeful]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

Hello Technic,

Actually your stereo harness is simply an OEM grade, i like the quadralock extension and long cables running to the trunk. I also like the OEM close wrapping and terminal legend printings were so impressive

Thanks for this product, you rocks

I wondered why you didn't seem to have much trouble getting the HU back in! I had to cut part of the cage away because the Quadralock extension was too short. Good upgrade Technic.

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by Hopeful

I wondered why you didn't seem to have much trouble getting the HU back in! I had to cut part of the cage away because the Quadralock extension was too short. Good upgrade Technic.

The quadralock is comming between the factory harness and the HU, so actually you have longer cable! Please let describe better how u find it short?

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by Technic

Excellent write up...

What is your impression of the new Stereo harness (longer extension cables, longer Quadralock harness, extension cables fully wrapped in OEM cloth tape)? Did it meet your expectations?

My only question is why didn't I get one of those

Have you started making them twisted pair?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by taibanl

My only question is why didn't I get one of those

Have you started making them twisted pair?

This is the new Stereo harness started from this August-on.

Twisted pair is only available when the RCA-termination option is selected.

[Hopeful]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

The quadralock is comming between the factory harness and the HU, so actually you have longer cable! Please let describe better how u find it short?

I was talking about the 5 inches or so of cable between the new HU Quadralock and the Quadralock receptacle which connects to the vehicle's Quadralock connector. If that had been longer it would have made it a lot easier to attach to the HU after tucking the connected Quadralocks out of the way.

While we're at it, I had to extend the underseat cables you supplied too with amp mounted in OEM position.

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by Hopeful

I was talking about the 5 inches or so of cable between the new HU Quadralock and the Quadralock receptacle which connects to the vehicle's Quadralock connector. If that had been longer it would have made it a lot easier to attach to the HU after tucking the connected Quadralocks out of the way.

While we're at it, I had to extend the underseat cables you supplied too with amp mounted in OEM position.

Ah, i see. Yes the quadralock extension is about 1 inch shorter than the OEM cable howver i had no problem attaching it to the HU before putting it back in position. Maybe u put the connected quadralock away further than mine.

And in regards to underseat cables, there werw long enough for me to route them to the OEM amp position, i had to cut part of both cables though.

Did you use the route shown in my guide?

[Hopeful]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

Did you use the route shown in my guide?

No, I used the route recommended by Technic
I went along the centre transmission tunnel - I can't see much difference in distance between the two though.

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by Hopeful

No, I used the route recommended by Technic
I went along the centre transmission tunnel - I can't see much difference in distance between the two though.

Yes, actually no much difference. I might have received longer cables from Technic.

[birdcatcher]

Hey Technic... I had PM'd you... still waiting for a revert...

[Rockyz]

OK, after living with the new sound system, i am really happy with the results but still hungry for deep bass

Looking for the best affordable solution for the the trunk woofer, i found this website http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...&cat=10&page=1 they seems to sell the trunk housing with many options to chose from like sub size and model also.

1. Does anyone has experience to advice me what is best options to choose from?

2. Also, as as i am having the JL XD600/6 and all channels are used, can i connect both SWS8s (2 Ohms each) in serial and attach them to channel 5 (so, load is 4Ohms) and keep channel 6 for the woofer? is that technically possible?

Thanks in advance.

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

OK, after living with the new sound system, i am really happy with the results but still hungry for deep bass

Looking for the best affordable solution for the the trunk woofer, i found this website http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...&cat=10&page=1 they seems to sell the trunk housing with many options to chose from like sub size and model also.

1. Does anyone has experience to advice me what is best options to choose from?

2. Also, as as i am having the JL XD600/6 and all channels are used, can i connect both SWS8s (2 Ohms each) in serial and attach them to channel 5 (so, load is 4Ohms) and keep channel 6 for the woofer? is that technically possible?

Thanks in advance.

Any idea?

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

OK, after living with the new sound system, i am really happy with the results but still hungry for deep bass

Looking for the best affordable solution for the the trunk woofer, i found this website http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...&cat=10&page=1" rel="" target="_blank">http://<a href="http://www.wickedcas...=10&page=1</a> they seems to sell the trunk housing with many options to chose from like sub size and model also.

1. Does anyone has experience to advice me what is best options to choose from?

2. Also, as as i am having the JL XD600/6 and all channels are used, can i connect both SWS8s (2 Ohms each) in serial and attach them to channel 5 (so, load is 4Ohms) and keep channel 6 for the woofer? is that technically possible?

Thanks in advance.

From the standpoint of maximum output for the least amount of money, I recommend an empty 12" enclosure and an Alpine Type R 12. That sub is also regarded by many to be in the SQL category, so sound quality and SPL in one. If you want a better SQL sub, go for an IDMax 10 or for pure SQ a Morel SC 10. In either case you will need a separate amp with at least 500w output.

[Wongway]

I know you just put that together, but if you're truly looking to go the trunk sub route, get rid of the Earthquakes and put something like the Jehnert XE200 8" woofers under there.

Performance characteristics for two different types of subs in the car might make for some strange sound tuning issues.

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

From the standpoint of maximum output for the least amount of money, I recommend an empty 12" enclosure and an Alpine Type R 12. That sub is also regarded by many to be in the SQL category, so sound quality and SPL in one. If you want a better SQL sub, go for an IDMax 10 or for pure SQ a Morel SC 10. In either case you will need a separate amp with at least 500w output.

Thank you very much.

Since i am looking for a lower budget, and definitely 500w of bass in my trunk is too much .

Do you think JL XD300/1v2 300w Amp: http://www.amazon.com/XD300-Audio-Mo...ds=XD300%2F1v2

and 12W1V3-2 - JL Audio 12" Single 2-Ohm: http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-12W1v...words=12W1V3-2

Do you think these will do good for me?

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by Wongway

I know you just put that together, but if you're truly looking to go the trunk sub route, get rid of the Earthquakes and put something like the Jehnert XE200 8" woofers under there.

Performance characteristics for two different types of subs in the car might make for some strange sound tuning issues.

Thats so unfortunate

As you said, it might make some tuning issues. So i think i will have to try and see how it goes, and hope things will work will together. If not, i will have to look for the replacement

[Wongway]

Yeah, ideally, you'd want the tweeters and mids playing from 20k-300ish hz or so. The 8" woofer below the seats for 300hz to about 80hz, and the trunk sub from 80hz on down past 30hz.

The big problem I see is you may end up with a strange hole in your sound.

The Earthquakes reportedly don't sound very good past 120hz.
It takes some really high end 4" mids to play down to 120hz or so.
A good subwoofer should ideally only be playing from 80hz on down.

So I'm going to guess things will sound rather empty from 300hz to about 120hz.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

Thank you very much.

Since i am looking for a lower budget, and definitely 500w of bass in my trunk is too much .

Do you think JL XD300/1v2 300w Amp: http://www.amazon.com/XD300-Audio-Mo...ds=XD300%2F1v2

and 12W1V3-2 - JL Audio 12" Single 2-Ohm: http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-12W1v...words=12W1V3-2

Do you think these will do good for me?

You would be surprised how much of the sub's output will be swallowed by the trunk. 500W is the minimum, better 600W-1000W. I used to run a JL W6 with 500W in a corner enclosure and it was underwhelming. Amp watts are cheap, and so is the Alpine Type R, about the same price as the JL W1, and MUCH more sub for the money. The XD600 is more money, but better spend it now rather than getting the XD300 and then later ending up upgrading anyway. Of course, there are other amps that make the same or more power, at a fraction of the price of the XD.

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by Wongway

Yeah, ideally, you'd want the tweeters and mids playing from 20k-300ish hz or so. The 8" woofer below the seats for 300hz to about 80hz, and the trunk sub from 80hz on down past 30hz.

The big problem I see is you may end up with a strange hole in your sound.

The Earthquakes reportedly don't sound very good past 120hz.
It takes some really high end 4" mids to play down to 120hz or so.
A good subwoofer should ideally only be playing from 80hz on down.

So I'm going to guess things will sound rather empty from 300hz to about 120hz.

I completely agree with you that the SWS8s are terrible beyond the 120Hz.

I am currently running the SWS8 at 110Hz and the fronts down to 110Hz as well, and they perform well to me.

Putting the new sub at 80Hz and down, and keeping the above configuration will not result in that hole in the spectrum. What do you think?

[Rockyz]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

You would be surprised how much of the sub's output will be swallowed by the trunk. 500W is the minimum, better 600W-1000W. I used to run a JL W6 with 500W in a corner enclosure and it was underwhelming. Amp watts are cheap, and so is the Alpine Type R, about the same price as the JL W1, and MUCH more sub for the money. The XD600 is more money, but better spend it now rather than getting the XD300 and then later ending up upgrading anyway. Of course, there are other amps that make the same or more power, at a fraction of the price of the XD.

That was so helpful, i will definitely consider 500w or higher. Thanks a lot for saving me the money

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

That was so helpful, i will definitely consider 500w or higher. Thanks a lot for saving me the money

No problem. I've been down this road a few times myself. Just trying to help other people make better decisions than me!

[Wongway]

Originally Posted by Rockyz

I completely agree with you that the SWS8s are terrible beyond the 120Hz.

I am currently running the SWS8 at 110Hz and the fronts down to 110Hz as well, and they perform well to me.

Putting the new sub at 80Hz and down, and keeping the above configuration will not result in that hole in the spectrum. What do you think?

I've never heard your speakers myself, but I have a hard time believing your mids will play to 110hz without straining.

I'm hoping for the best that they do!

Outside of that, I think your biggest headache might be getting the SWS and your trunk sub to play nice with each other. Phasing issues might cause one set to cancel the output of the other. You'll also be fighting the fact that the trunk naturally cancels out some of the trunk sub as well. I think when checking output, you'll need to selectively turn off the SWS and make sure the trunk sub is tuned well before turning them back on to see if the SWS aren't cancelling the trunk subs. And once you do that, vice versa.

I doubt people will reference this thread well, but I think the best advice anyone can give to someone looking to add low end to the E90 is:
If you aren't willing to go the trunk sub route, stick with it. If you're open to the trunk sub route, any compromises you made for having bass in the cabin will screw with your trunk sub install.