[lee4him]

@ Persian Whisperjet, the dimensions of the block off plate I don't have; however, you can remove the two torque bolts and do as I did which was simply pop the adapter off and trace it onto a piece of sheetmetal. Then use a dremel or cutoff wheel to cut it out. Finally, use a file to fine tune it and drill the holes you outlined earlier. That's how I made mine. No laser cutting or fancy cnc machine needed (although if you have one...use it)

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by lee4him

I went pre-IAT based on the info below.

This.

Example of how well this placement works from my vehicle. This is strapped down on a dyno with zero air flow on the vehicle (worst case scenario) and warm summer conditions. Observing the injection timing also shows the DDE advances timing based on lower IAT's. Seeing the dramatic reduction in IAT's during the pull when the H2O/methanol kicks in is impressive, and also helps control EGT's.

[gatordoc335d]

great work! Once I move out of SF to the burbs I want to do something like this.

[Xerix]

Hey Everyone,

I thought I would post a bit of info from my experience from 2 weeks ago on this. I too cleaned my intake and EGR/Throttle but I did not perform any modifications.

I didnt have anywhere to pressure wash or submerge my intake, so I ended up using carb cleaner and industrial solvent (which was a bit stronger than the carb cleaner). I also used a couple screw drivers and some NYLON brushes. I can't stress enough to anyone who does this to use Nylon brushes only. Using steel brushes will instantly scratch the plastic once you get thru the carbon build up. The swirl flaps were also removed and completely cleaned as they were quite dirty. Total cleaning time was 3 days for those parts including soaking whatever I could.

In my situation, I did not have anywhere near as bad CBU as the poster, but I got a check engine light for the following codes:
1. 4687 Throttle Valve Actuator (Attached to EGR and Intake Manifold)
2. 4C7B DDE Reducing Agent Metering Valve Activation
3. 4D35 SCR Metering Valve
4. 4C4C ??? Could not find info on it

The first one was of greater concern for me because I thought it was getting gunked up. So turns out even after cleaning everything and reseting the computer, the second code came back quickly (as I expected because I did not touch it) but later in the week the 1st one came back as well.

Couple days after that again, I took the SCR Metering valve off (under the car attached after the catalytic converter / DPF) and cleaned off a bunch of white crystalized def. The metering ports (3 very small holes) did not look to have any buildup and the inlet did not have anything either. I cleaned it under hot water anyways and scrubed it down and re-installed it. I reset the computer and drove it around and after about 100 meters the light came back on and the same (2nd) code was in the computer again.

Now today, My check engine light mysteriously went off while driving. So this weekend I will have to check the codes again and reset them to see if they will come back. The Throttle Valve Actuator looked to be working fine as I could see the throttle opening and closing (From watching the spring turning) when I had someone step on the go peddle for me.

I included some pics of the Intake and EGR for you when they were dirty.

Total KM: 110,000 (65% Highway, 35% City/Traffic)
The Intake Manifold has seen 110,000KM
EGR Valve has seen about 90,000KM (Replaced around 20,000KM in recall)

[Mik325tds]

Great post and great work Lee4him! It is because of people like you, that this forum is one of the best ones around!
Good to hear that we won't have to remove the valve cover for the cleaning job as the SIB shows. That saves a lot of work and $ on new seals.

I'll probably start cleaning over the Thanksgiving weekend and will try to post some more pictures before/after.
I have found an engine cleaning company close by that'll do the ultrasound cleaning of the intake for $150. Weather doesn't really encourage fuzzing around with a pressure washer outside, yet it seems to be a totally feasible method.

@ SF335DIESEL and anyone else that wants to perform the CBU cleaning themselves:
PM me if you'd like to rent the special tools from me. Those would be the three wands and 2 vacuum adaptors. You'd still need the media blaster, compressor, shop vac, etc.

[dumalei]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Great post and great work Lee4him! It is because of people like you, that this forum is one of the best ones around!
Good to hear that we won't have to remove the valve cover for the cleaning job as the SIB shows. That saves a lot of work and $ on new seals.

I'll probably start cleaning over the Thanksgiving weekend and will try to post some more pictures before/after.
I have found an engine cleaning company close by that'll do the ultrasound cleaning of the intake for $150. Weather doesn't really encourage fuzzing around with a pressure washer outside, yet it seems to be a totally feasible method.

@ SF335DIESEL and anyone else that wants to perform the CBU cleaning themselves:
PM me if you'd like to rent the special tools from me. Those would be the three wands and 2 vacuum adaptors. You'd still need the media blaster, compressor, shop vac, etc.

Where are you located

[glitdi]

Bump!
Anyone have the part numbers for the gaskets...
Going to take a stab at this on the weekend.

[Yozh]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...76&hg=11&fg=40

[p27rpy]

Fantasic, well thought out post. I will be tackling this project soon and this is the perfect road map to guide me through it. Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together!

[Mik325tds]

I pulled my intake last weekend with 97k miles as I think it's time for the first CBU cleaning. Attached are a few pictures of how the swirl ports and intake manifold look. While all intake ports have moderate CBU, the tangential port on cylinder 6 stayed completely clean! I talked to Lee4him and with his car it was the same phenomenon. I'd like to get your ideas as to why that could be. And don't go for the easy one - the swirl flap of cyl 6 is working fine.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

damn

[montr]

Is cylinder #6 the furthest away from the air intake?

[gtp900]

Furthest from intake would be my guess as well. Do you plan on blocking swirl flaps?

[Mik325tds]

Yes, cylinder count is from front to rear, so #6 is furthest away. But what does it matter? And if it is pure distance, then why is the top swirl port of #6 (see picture) not clean as well?
What would the advantages of blocking the swirl flaps be?

[Mik325tds]

By the way, I found the repair manual 1112800 that was superceded by the SIB110314. This one does it without removing the valve cover, and the special wands where made to go with this, so the markings on them tell you when to stop pulling out in order not to damage the plastic of the valve cover.

[BayE30]

^^^nice. should get a special tools kit together and rent it out to groups of Diesel guys by region...

[Mik325tds]

Lee4him's method of using soda to clean the EGR and throttle valves worked very well. I tried using a teethbrush with Acetone but it was quite messy and not very successfull. So I bought the media at harbor freight and used a friends cheap suction type media blaster (see pictures). I used about three fills of the suction cup, so maybe 3-5 pounds of soda. Doing it over the shop vac bucket recovered some of the media so it didn't all go on my driveway. But definitely needed a shower afterwards ;-). Be sure to use a good respirator and a blaster hoodie for eye protection.

[Mik325tds]

Since I haven't used a media blaster before I wanted to get some feel for how to work my new media blaster. So I decided to make a dry run which connected all parts but used a glas bottle instead of an intake runner. This way I was able to learn to adjust media and air flow on the media blaster and seeing the results while fiddling with it.
So far my technique is to open the pressure valve for the media tank first, then open the wand valve, then adjust the pure air valve to get a good amount of air flow (about quarter open) and then open slowly open the media valve on the bottom of the tank to adjust media flow. Somehow, I'll need to keep adjusting the mediaflow valve because for some reason the media flow stops after a while so it seems the valve gets clogged every now and then. Opening a bit more will then resume media flow. Probably it's best to have second person helping with this job: one to hold the vacuum adapter in place and one to move the wand and adjust media flow.

[Mik325tds]

Not very pretty, but here are my 3rd hands to hold the vacuum adapters in place. I also modified the hose end to attach the shop vac more firmly.
The walnut shells work very good. I used half of the 25 pound bag and am reusing the media as well. 3 runs per intake make it look like this:

[TorqueAddict]

^ good job!

[lee4him]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Since I haven't used a media blaster before I wanted to get some feel for how to work my new media blaster. So I decided to make a dry run which connected all parts but used a glas bottle instead of an intake runner. This way I was able to learn to adjust media and air flow on the media blaster and seeing the results while fiddling with it.
So far my technique is to open the pressure valve for the media tank first, then open the wand valve, then adjust the pure air valve to get a good amount of air flow (about quarter open) and then open slowly open the media valve on the bottom of the tank to adjust media flow. Somehow, I'll need to keep adjusting the mediaflow valve because for some reason the media flow stops after a while so it seems the valve gets clogged every now and then. Opening a bit more will then resume media flow. Probably it's best to have second person helping with this job: one to hold the vacuum adapter in place and one to move the wand and adjust media flow.

Add a valve at the end of the hose (the wand would then attach to it). This will allow you to open all the media blaster valves at the same time. Then you can be in the engine bay with the shop vac running prior to any media being released. Having a setup with the valve at the end of the hose will allow this to be a much easier one man job.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

awesome amigos