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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > My ProVent 200 Install



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      02-18-2015, 09:21 AM   #23
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The BMS cowl filters are excellent UPGRADE I have them on my car.

Sukutash can you give the complete step by step rundown and parts you used im inclining to do this even though Im coded out EGR/DPF/SCR I do over 90% city driving
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      02-18-2015, 12:27 PM   #24
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I will attempt to put together a step by step and parts list for the install as requested by multiple members. It wont happen over night?
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      02-18-2015, 01:42 PM   #25
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take your time amigo not in a hurry
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      09-01-2015, 09:04 AM   #26
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Bumping this up seeing that there's been a recent surge in interest of catch can installs and options available. This was my way of approaching the catch can CCV issue.
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      09-01-2015, 10:27 AM   #27
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where is the step by step write up?
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      09-01-2015, 02:34 PM   #28
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Red face

Um, give me another few months to come up with a valid excuse......
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      09-01-2015, 03:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukutash View Post
Um, give me another few months to come up with a valid excuse......
c'mon man!
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      09-01-2015, 04:52 PM   #30
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I asked this back on 12-24-14. Can you provide part numbers for the GMC components you mention please?

I was hoping to not have to wait until you write the long awaited DIY. Already familiar with doing the catch can mod, but considering switching over as I still have oil coming into throttle body area. Thanks in advance
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      09-22-2015, 04:26 PM   #31
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Bump.
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      09-25-2015, 01:55 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukutash
Here are some pics of my provent 200 install on my D. All those that did this before me, thanks. I took that knowledge base and came up with my fabrication. After all it is a fabrication because no kits exist and much thought and effort was put into it. As much of us know, this was an undertaking, and I highly encourage all of us that own D's to do. In the first 1,000 miles, I effectively filtered 4-5 oz of oil out of my intake system. As I've stated before, it's the quality of the CCV device that will render effective filtration of the CCV gases. I've got the .5" reinforced clear vinyl tubing draining out the bottom of the Provent 200, through a pet cock valve, via a cut out in the lower engine bay cover. This makes it very easy when it comes to draining the filtered out oil.

I've been without engine cover since day 1, currently at 94,000 miles. I always thought the car was too quite, and this helped slightly. Decided to remove the engine bay cowling along with cabin air filter while doing the CCV system install, and installed the BMS filters. The engine can now be PROPERLY heard, just how I like it.
Beautiful work. How long did the install take? Could this be handed off to a competent indy? This is a catchcan on steroids, right? No chance this could obviate the need for an EGR block?

Damn nice work!
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      09-25-2015, 08:33 AM   #33
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Chief, I'm running both catch can along with no alphabet. I am considering switching to Provent 200 as I am still getting oil up in my throttle body.
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      09-25-2015, 08:55 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukutash View Post
Um, give me another few months to come up with a valid excuse......
Suspense is killing me. I would install this in a heart beat.
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      09-25-2015, 09:27 AM   #35
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Help me understand something with this PCV/CCV oil filter. I understand that people want to reduce the oil mist within the crankcase and are using this and other methods to condense the oil and drain it and reduce its contribution to CBU.

My question is how does the oil mist in the crank get to the intake? Where is the feedback loop that provides this path? Once the egr has been blocked/removed, how would the oil mist get to the intake to start the CBU process?

Last edited by 335D Alpha Pappa; 09-25-2015 at 01:33 PM.. Reason: What the hell was ccb? CBU!
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      09-25-2015, 10:16 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa View Post
...
My question is how does the oil mist in the crank get to the intake? Where is the feedback loop that provides this path? ...?
This might help. It's feeding the crankcase fumes right into the intake before the turbo.
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      09-25-2015, 11:28 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa View Post
Help me understand something with this PCV/CCV oil filter. I understand that people want to reduce the oil mist within the crankcase and are using this and other methods to condense the oil and drain it and reduce its contribution to CCB.

My question is how does the oil mist in the crank get to the intake? Where is the feedback loop that provides this path? Once the egr has been blocked/removed, how would the oil mist get to the intake to start the CCB process?
EGR and PCV/CCV are two independent systems. EGR feeds exhaust gas from the manifold (pre-turbo) into the intake at the throttle body, while PCV takes vapors from the crankcase (including blow-by from combustion) and feeds this to the intake upstream of the turbos. (/edit - TDIwyse beat me to the punch - graphic helps! /edit)
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      09-25-2015, 01:41 PM   #38
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Yes, they are two separate systems but people have stated that installing a catch can will reduce the build up of CBU. Once you have the egr blocked, the only other possible source for cbu is the ccv, as shown in the above picture.

I have my doubts about the effectiveness of a catch can once the erg is blocked. As the intake air rushes by the blowby pipe, it creates a venturi effect that will draw in the oil laden air from the crankcase. This small volume of oil laden air will then go thru the turbos, is heated, expands and sent thru the IC to be cooled and condenses. This could be the reason people see oil in the charge pipe or the IC. If oil laden air was a problem due to the ccv, there should be coking on the turbo inlets or in the charge pipe. Has anyone noticed this condition?

People have different results in using the catch can because their setup can have a serious impact on or negates the venturi effect whereas the only way the air moves from the crankcase is by pressure of the crankcase instead of being drawn into the intake.

I am just going thru a thought process on this. Trying to figure out the value of it. It does not seem to have a negative impact on anything but does it actually improve the design?

Last edited by 335D Alpha Pappa; 09-25-2015 at 01:50 PM..
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      09-26-2015, 02:55 PM   #39
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I have never installed a catch can but been running an EGR block from early on. Always thought a bit of oil in the intake without the soot will not cause problems. I may be very wrong. When I pull my intake I shall see. So far looking into if with EGR removed does not show much in a sense of cbu.
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      09-29-2015, 06:54 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa View Post
Yes, they are two separate systems but people have stated that installing a catch can will reduce the build up of CBU. Once you have the egr blocked, the only other possible source for cbu is the ccv, as shown in the above picture.

I have my doubts about the effectiveness of a catch can once the erg is blocked. As the intake air rushes by the blowby pipe, it creates a venturi effect that will draw in the oil laden air from the crankcase. This small volume of oil laden air will then go thru the turbos, is heated, expands and sent thru the IC to be cooled and condenses. This could be the reason people see oil in the charge pipe or the IC. If oil laden air was a problem due to the ccv, there should be coking on the turbo inlets or in the charge pipe. Has anyone noticed this condition?

People have different results in using the catch can because their setup can have a serious impact on or negates the venturi effect whereas the only way the air moves from the crankcase is by pressure of the crankcase instead of being drawn into the intake.

I am just going thru a thought process on this. Trying to figure out the value of it. It does not seem to have a negative impact on anything but does it actually improve the design?


I have both the ProVent 200 installed along with EGR plates almost a year with 14k miles driven. When I drain the hose connected to my ProVent every 500-600 miles, 5.0 oz. of oil come flowing out. I removed the charge pipe about 2k miles ago to do a visual inspection and saw a clean EGR actuator and intake.

As far as coking is concerned in the turbo inlet, intercooler plumbing or charge pipe, I believe you would not see any of that in those areas due to the relatively low heat required for coking. In addition, at the turbo inlet there would be a constant washing effect of fresh oil, 5.0 oz. every 500-600 miles in my case.
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      10-23-2015, 07:55 PM   #41
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So here"s the latest version of my ProVent install. It's been almost a year since originally installed, and I knew that the set up on the engine side with a GM PCV grommet and heater pipe would not withstand the test of time. For all those that have patiently waited for the part #'s for the GMC grommet and heater hose, I've been diligently searching for where I wrote them down with no luck, sorry.

Anyway'z I came up with my ProVent 2.0, prototype install/ mockup. I think this will be a much more robust set up and will finalize errthang within the next few weeks. NOTE: To remove the OEM CCV housing a PENTAGON allen key is required (tamper proof). I just ground down a standard allen key to fit in order to remove the fasteners.

Here is a list of hardware I used for my set up and places to source them.

1. Mann ProVent 200, many sources, $115-$200
2. 7' of 3/4" I.D. Gates fuel vapor and oil resistant hose, Napa, $4.50/ ft
3. 1' of 5/8" I.D. " " $4.79/ft
4. 1' of 1" I.D. " "
5. 2 1"-3/4 straight nylon reducers, Home Depot
6. 3-4 3/4" 90 degree elbow, Home Depot or Napa
7. 1 custom bracket, to mount ProVent to the LH strut brace
8. 2 #15 Adel clamps for attaching the custom bracket to brace
9. Screws, lock washers, washers and clip nuts for above mount
10. #18 Adel clamp, bolt, lock washer, 1" threaded spacer to hard mount return hose to location formally occupied by engine cover near oil filter
11. Several adjustable hose clamps
12. 3' 1/2" clear re-enforced vinyl tubing, used to route filtered oil down to opening in lower engine bay cover for collecting and draining.
13. Pet cock valve, 1/4" NPT, Ace hardware for above hose
14. Several zip ties, various sizes

I sourced many miscellaneous parts from my stock so yours may vary.
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      10-25-2015, 12:22 AM   #42
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sukutash thanks a million...let me know when you're in Oakland, CA and I will help you install on my car
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      10-25-2015, 08:18 AM   #43
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Thanks for showing us Provent 2.0. In these two recent pictures, the hockey puck is compared to the aluminum plate.

I'm guessing the hockey puck is just laying there not connected as the place where the hockey puck used to be connected now has the aluminum plate bolted down?

I was the guy that was asking for the GMC part numbers. With the latest version, I'm presuming the GM parts are no longer needed as those were used to transition from hockey puck to large tubing?

I've seen this plate before on another thread or forum. Can you please provide either
a) source for plate? OR
b) better yet, the basic footprint or drawing to make our own plate?

I presume a piece of aluminum plate and jig saw would be fine to make this (same method as the block to EGR inlet).
Thanks for the guidance
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      10-26-2015, 11:23 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Thanks for showing us Provent 2.0. In these two recent pictures, the hockey puck is compared to the aluminum plate.

I'm guessing the hockey puck is just laying there not connected as the place where the hockey puck used to be connected now has the aluminum plate bolted down?

Yes the puck is there for comparison only.

I was the guy that was asking for the GMC part numbers. With the latest version, I'm presuming the GM parts are no longer needed as those were used to transition from hockey puck to large tubing?


This update does without the GM PCV grommet and heater hose elbow. When I originally came up with that solution I knew it wouldn't hold up too long. All the tubing is the same and reused.


I've seen this plate before on another thread or forum. Can you please provide either
a) source for plate? OR
b) better yet, the basic footprint or drawing to make our own plate?

I fabricated the plate from aluminum stock. I used the OEM puck as a template, traced the outline onto the aluminum and started cutting and grinding.

I presume a piece of aluminum plate and jig saw would be fine to make this (same method as the block to EGR inlet).
Thanks for the guidance
Hope that helps.
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