[Yozh]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

what is the last photo in post #19? inlet to DPF?

Technically that is a DOC

[p27rpy]

Originally Posted by JoosyJoos

This is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.

I wish someone would do this for the methanol install & wiring haha

You and me both!

Great work, thanks for documenting this!

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Technically that is a DOC

Aha! Learned something new today. Diesel oxidation catalyst...
For everyone else who was wondering what a DOC is, here's a short document that explains it all.
Thanks Yozh!

[Persian Whisperjet]

So the DOC gets tossed out along with the DPF in Mik's mod? I remember TDI saying there was some benefit to keeping the DOC to control odor etc but that is "not goign happen" with a replacement downpipe, correct?

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

So the DOC gets tossed out along with the DPF in Mik's mod? I remember TDI saying there was some benefit to keeping the DOC to control odor etc but that is "not goign happen" with a replacement downpipe, correct?

Correct on both counts. The way TDI originally preserved the DOC was by using the factory DOC/DPF-equipped down pipe, but removing the DPF portion.

Another option that has been mentioned in a few other threads to help with the exhaust odor is to simply install some high flow converters further downstream on the exhaust. iaknown said this had a notable improvement over being completely catless/DOCless.

[DWR]

Hey everyone, I just wanted to say that I have noted the generous spirit of Mik325tds in pervious posts and wanted to add my appreciation. There is actually a button for that in the lower left hand corner - feel free to put some points on the board for this guy.

[Mik325tds]

Thanks for the appreciation points! That motivated me to continue this weekend even though my cojones where at risk of freezing to the garage floor...
Anyway, after removing the NOx sensor and post DPF temp sensor I found that I was working on the wrong end of things and misstated earlier in post #4 that these will have to be removed and installed in the downpipe from Jess. Obviously, that was wrong and has now been corrected. It is the pre-oxidative catalyst temp sensor and O2 sensor that need to be unscrewed see picture below:

[Mik325tds]

While I was able to borrow a 22mm oxygen sensor wrench from Autozone, I had to use a redneck solution for the 14mm temperature sensor which is almost too embarassing to post. Jet, I must say it worked pretty well. The locking plier kept the open wrench from widening and gave me another handle to apply force.

[Mik325tds]

Here's the prepared downpipe ready to be installed.

[Yozh]

If you heat them up, those sensors are easier to remove. Also, it's ok to bang on them, on the nut portion at least.

[Mik325tds]

Next, porting the waste gate: As previously pointed out by BB_cuda it is a good idea to increase the diameter of the waste gate in order to help with over-boost issues due to less restriction in the exhaust flow.
At this point I'd like to thank iaknown for having this brilliant idea and sharing this post with us:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1074384

In order to do so, the pneumatic actuator has to be unbolted and pushed back in order to free up the "gate".

[Mik325tds]

Starting with a 7/16" drill, slow rpms and good cutting oil, I then used a 1/2" reamer as my final size due to lack of a larger reamer. The recommended new diameter is 9/16".
The hole is pretty long so it takes a bit of patience to do this job. Half way through I took a picture to check my direction. As you can see, I deviated a little bit which doesn't seem to be a problem though.
Definitely wear eye protection as hot metal shavings will fall down on you. Very unpleasant.

[Mik325tds]

Much more important is to stay away with the drill/reamer from the flap that closes the waste gate, which unfortunately I also did not manage to achieve .
After finishing the drilling I used a counter sink and then a small file to clean the edge of the hole to make sure the flap closes well.

[Mik325tds]

Next, installing the downpipe. Before starting this one needs to buy two stainless steel bolts (M8x35mm or 5/16"x1.25 or 1.5"). Hand tighten the V-band clamp first then install the bolts and allign the exhaust. Then tighten down the V-band and bolts.
When installing the mount, I noticed it didn't quite line up with mount on the downpipe, but that was corrected quite easily. Jess told me that he corrected this after my downpipe was produced.

[Mik325tds]

Here's a picture of the installed downpipe and reinstalled motor mount.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Michael this is super helpful.

Do folks think the overpressure is an issue for people who are NOT running Jarek's Stage 2?

[gtp900]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Much more important is to stay away with the drill/reamer from the flap that closes the waste gate, which unfortunately I also did not manage to achieve .
After finishing the drilling I used a counter sink and then a small file to clean the edge of the hole to make sure the flap closes well.

What did you do about metal shavings? Turbine and waste gate hole?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by gtp900

What did you do about metal shavings? Turbine and waste gate hole?

Most of the shavings will drop down on you while drilling. Definitely need eye protection for that. The only part to worry about are the shavings left on the other side of the waste gate when the drill goes through. I used a shop vac to clean the shavings. I figured the rest of the shavings will be pushed out by the exhaust gases.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Michael this is super helpful.

Do folks think the overpressure is an issue for people who are NOT running Jarek's Stage 2?

Jarek wasn't too worried about his stage 1 tune causing problems. Other tunes will have the same problem, depending on how agressive they alter the boost maps. The more restrictions are removed from the exhaust (swirl plate, SCR catalyst, mufflers), the more one has to deal with overboost problems.

[gtp900]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Most of the shavings will drop down on you while drilling. Definitely need eye protection for that. The only part to worry about are the shavings left on the other side of the waste gate when the drill goes through. I used a shop vac to clean the shavings. I figured the rest of the shavings will be pushed out by the exhaust gases.

Thanks! Very informative posting, can't wait for it to warm up here to get this mod done

[Mik325tds]

When I pulled the connectors for the sensors on the DPF, I didn't realize that the connectors for the temperature sensors pre and post oxidation catalyst are the same. Here's some info on which connector the remaining temp sensor should be plugged in. It is X2390 "Temperature sensor before catalytic converter"

[Mik325tds]

Edit: Based on the discussion following this post I realized that the following needs to be put into context. Some members (including me) where wondering if it is possible to install the pipe first and then drive to Oakville, Ontario to get Jarek's tune. The question was if the car would be driveable or would go into limp home mode. Now follows the original post:

I started the engine with the downpipe installed and it seemed pretty content with the situation of missing multiple sensors. Obviously, the Check engine light (CEL) was on immediately. But that is normal for me as I had the EGR block-off plates installed for a while now.
I then pulled the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) see attached list. After about 5 minutes of ignition ON the following message appeared in the Car Information Computer (CIC).
So the DDE does go into Limp home mode. Even though it says "Continued driving is possible", I wouldn't recommend driving several 100 miles in this state.